Print

Please login or register.

[glennd3]

Would it make a difference if I replace the front mounts with the k75 and leave the rear mounts? I can do the front fairly easily.

[KWKloeber]

Of course.
If they don’t need it then don’t replace em. If they do then replace em.

[Ron Hill]

Glenn : Sure!  You'll just have to see if you still get the "buzz' in your feet. 

You can always take the Vetus mounts apart to do the rear - which I've done with everything still connected!  If these are the original mounts I believe that you'll want to change all 4 mounts. Try 2 and see.

A few thoughts

[tvorgitch]

Ron,
How were you able to disassemble the Vetus mounts? When I try and remove the bolt, this weird nut on the bottom just spins, even with an impact driver. Even if I did get it apart, I would be concerned about assembling it.

[Ron Hill]

tvo : you need to put a vice grips on that underside nut to hold it so you can unscrew the threaded shaft.

A Thought

[Noah]

Ron- I don’t get it??? If it takes a vice grips to hold the nut underneath, which mean the nit is not “captive”, how would you hold the nut to tighten the stud once the mount is turned right-side up under the engine, let alone bolted down?? I am confused.

[tvorgitch]

Yes, this is my concern. I read about this approach here: https://forums.sailboatowners.com/threads/motor-mounts.175915/#post-1257331

I will call Vetus on Monday.

I will ask if it's possible to put 2 (or 3) small self-taping screws in the plate nut to hold in place for disassembly and reassembly.

[Ron Hill]

Guys : The idea is to unscrew the threaded shaft out of the mount so you can place the mount under the bracket on the engine. Then screw the shaft back into the mount. I've done it a couple of times.

A thought

[Noah]

RON- I hear what you are saying but he said the nut SPINS—meaning the nut is NOT captive. How to you retighten the stud later if you cannot hold the nut again once the mount is down??

[Ron Hill]

Guys : Sorry, I guess that Vetus must have redesigned their mounts ?!? 

So to do what I mentioned (remove the threaded shaft) you'd have to tack weld a spot to hold that underside nut in place.

A thought

[waughoo]

tvo : you need to put a vice grips on that underside nut to hold it so you can unscrew the threaded shaft

I thought vice grips were employed in your method

[Ron Hill]

Alex & Guys : The older K75s must have had a Welded? Stationary thread in the mount itself - which has change to a free pined nut in the underside!!

A thought

[WBev]

I replaced my rear engine isolators, originals, in April of 2022 using Vetus K75s.  I put the base into a vise at home.  I used an 8mm allen wrench on top of the post.  They come apart.  Don't overthink it like I did.  The post is on with a loctite like product, so once you crack it, away you go.  I used the same, blue loctite, when I put the post back on the isolator with the base screwed to the engine joist. 

In 2021 I replace the front isolators, originals, with Vetus K75s.  I couldn't build up the nerve to cut the rear ones off during sailing season.   Yes, it did make a difference, but my port side front original was completely shot, so ymmv.  The front took about 20 minutes each side, including putting in new lag bolts. The engine supported itself on three, so really an easy job.

Glenn - if you are still on the hard, let me know. 

[tvorgitch]

I called Vetus and they confirmed that there was a design change about 4 years ago.

WBev, were you able to reassemble the engine isolators using the flat nut pictured above?

I assume if I get my fingers under that that might be possible.

[tvorgitch]

Ok, it turns out the nut is captive. After a few drops of acetone on the bottom of the bolt, I was able to disassemble the mount. You can see that the threads go all the way through the mount. I'm confident that once I clean the threads, I'll be able to reassemble it without any difficulty.

Thanks for all the help!