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[glennd3]

I am in the process of refinishing/repairing the steps. The top steps are in good shape and I have sanded, applied 1st coat of cetol. See Pictures. I am going to replace the tread piece for the top step, see picture. The PO had the tread in place and I never slipped on the step so I am going to keep it. I am going to fill the other steps groves with either caulk or wood filler as others have done.
 Now for the problem, The bottom steps are mounted on plywood and it is separating at the bottom. It will only get worse and need to be replaced. Pictures coming. I looked on the site and cannot find any threads on this repair. I plan on replacing the plywood which will force me to replace screw plugs, new for me. I have also ordered sound proofing from Defender because mine is degrading.
 

[Noah]

Glenn- you may have gotten ahead of yourself if you intend to “fill” the grooves with something. Probably would stick much better if the grooves were sanded to bare wood, not coated with Cetol, before applying “filler”?? Not sure what you mean regarding steps on plywood, so I looking forward to more pics.

[mark_53]

My steps have non skid between the groves. Have never slipped.  No need to fil.

[waughoo]

I would be inclined to fill with black deck caulking just to keep the debris from lingering.

[Stu Jackson]

The "fill" concept was originated as early as 1988, in this Mainsheet article:  https://c34.org/mainsheet/images/Pg20+21a.jpg

The idea was to avoid having the slits collect dirt.  We used this method to fill ours.

I haven't found the steps to be slippery at all, although I always use the great handholds that we all have at the sides of the companionway.  Just a good habit I got into.  Probably the only one in my entire life!   

Alex, we like the lighter min-wax because it echoes the teak & holly sole.  I've been on boats that used black, and I just didn't like it.  Before you use black, consider that the concept was to avoid dirt in the slits which would have been, uh, black! 

[glennd3]

I went to the boat and brought the bottom steps home. I also grabbed some marine plywood to replace the split plywood. see pictures. I have to wait for my neighbor, Newman, to come home from goose hunting with my number 2 son to cut the plywood. He is one of those guys that when he does something it has to be perfect. Note the plywood is 3/4 and approx 21 1/4 x 24 1/4. I will post pictures of removing the steps from the plywood next.

[glennd3]

Stu I really like that look.

The "fill" concept was originated as early as 1988, in this Mainsheet article:  https://c34.org/mainsheet/images/Pg20+21a.jpg

The idea was to avoid having the slits collect dirt.  We used this method to fill ours.

I haven't found the steps to be slippery at all, although I always use the great handholds that we all have at the sides of the companionway.  Just a good habit I got into.  Probably the only one in my entire life!   

Alex, we like the lighter min-wax because it echoes the teak & holly sole.  I've been on boats that used black, and I just didn't like it.  Before you use black, consider that the concept was to avoid dirt in the slits which would have been, uh, black! 

[waughoo]

Before you use black, consider that the concept was to avoid dirt in the slits which would have been, uh, black! 

Duely noted Stu!!

[Ron Hill]

Guys : I wrote an article in the Mainsheet Tech notes m(w/pictures) on taping on anti skid strips - Easy to maintain.  I added the strips after a friends wife took a header against the galley woodwork after slipping on a wet step!!  The anti skid strips are white so you can even see them at night.

A thought

[Craig Illman]

I had filled mine with leftover Dow 795 (black) from doing the fixed portlights. I think it worked well. Sorry I don't have any pictures.

Craig

[glennd3]

We cut the plywood today, just a little wider than the old panel. I can hit it with a belt sander for a final fit when I get to the boat. The insulation was shot and easy to remove however messy. The bottom step attached with 8 bolts/screws which luckily I was able to remove without taking the wood plugs out. The top step however I had to remove 2 of the plugs. Both steps took some prying to release as 30 years left them securely stuck together. I plan to line the 2 pieces of plywood together and drill the holes to reattach the steps. If I am successful I will have dodged a bullet only having to remove 2 plugs.  I am leaning towards filling the step grooves with wood filler. I like Stu's suggestion that it looks like teak and holly. I also have to play with my scrap plywood to get the right color to match. Anyway here are some pictures not in any order.

[glennd3]

more

[glennd3]

more

[Noah]

Glenn- “Generally” if you drill a pilot hole into the seated/existing plug and insert a small screw into the top of it, when you turn the screw it will bottom out against the buried screw and pop the plug out cleanly as you screw in. This usually works, unless the plugs are firmly glued in. Then you will need to use a chisel, small pocket knife, or other weapon.

[Ron Hill]

Guys : When I first got my C34 in 1989 I saw the problem of the unfinished cut edge at the bottom of the vertical plywood steps piece.  I sealed that cut edge with varnish and added a strip of stained oak 1/4 round to the front!   

After my friends wife took a header into the galley, I'm a firm believer in anti skid.  The steps are functional steps to be walked ON - Not a piece of furniture!   


A few thoughts