Engine Mounts

Ron Hill · October 21, 2020, 05:08:10 PM

Guys : As Roland mentioned there is a way to change engine mounts without lifting the engine. I believe we posted it in the Mainsheet tech notes. It was first done by "Capt. Al" on Kindred Spirit.

I've done it both ways.
After cutting the old mounts threaded shaft and removing it, then taking the new mount apart and installing it is the easiest way by far!! All you need a reciprocating saw to cut the old mounts shaft!

A thought

suereal · October 21, 2020, 06:16:16 PM

Any thoughts on the size, length, material for the lag bolts?

KWKloeber · October 21, 2020, 07:10:53 PM

Quote from: suereal on October 21, 2020, 05:00:01 PM

It appears that the serial number may be 37. So from this I'm assuming that my engine is an A.

I believe you're playing hooky from class here. 😳

The XPAs and XPA(C)s were NOT bronze. They were Ice Blue (and at least a few "silver.")

If you had an XPA, the model tag would read "M-25XPA."

Hull #367 - I'm guessing is a 1987? The XP was produced starting 9/1986, therefore it's plausible that you have one of the earliest XPs (s/n 37.)

Note: if you go looking for parts at a Kubota dealer, #37 is the Universal Mefalist s/n, and has no relation to the Kubota s/n on your engine.

KWKloeber · October 21, 2020, 07:33:06 PM

RON!!

Three Hail Mary's would have been way sufficient.
You're right, the c30 MK-II had Yanmars (a superior engine, IMO.)

I tend to shy away from exactly what was installed in 34s, which you and Stu are better schooled in! I just try to stick to Universal/Westerbeke generalities and the many nuances.
For instance, the 30 actually had two, slightly variant m-25s. While the 34 (apparently) had only the later variant m-25. The differences are slight, yet noticeable.

Interesting that, like CTY, Oshkosh did what it needed to in order to get engines out the door. Apparently short on Ob pumps, my m-25 had an OEM adapter plate so that the 202m-07 pump could be installed in place of the more typical m-15 pump.

Max is a short-timer. SherMax was SOLD!

suereal · October 23, 2020, 09:16:39 AM

KW,

Hull is # 364 as stated in the first post. I wasn't playing hooky, but the droning may have caused me to nod off briefly. Originally built in '86 and commissioned in '87 I am the 3rd owner.

Thanks again for your help, I'm sure this isn't the last you'll hear from me!

Ron Hill · October 23, 2020, 01:27:37 PM

Sue: When I replaced my original mounts, I went for lagbolts 1/4" longer that the ones that were in there. You are going into Oak!!

A thought

Rortega46 · March 06, 2021, 07:04:12 AM

I am looking into changing engine mounts on my M35BC and believe exact replacements are available on Catalina Direct and Westerbeke.com @ $270.60/ea. Has anyone with an M35B found a less expensive alternative source for theses mounts? Are Vetus mounts an option? If so which model and where did you source?

I've searched prior posts and the WIKI and have not found info on an alternative M35B mount or a source for lowering cost.

Jim Hardesty · March 06, 2021, 08:33:03 AM

Randy,
Excuse me for replying and not answering your question. I have a question. Why do you believe the motor mounts need change? Shamrock is the same year and I want to know if I should be looking for some problems.
Try a search of vetus. You may find that helpful.
Jim

kh3412 · March 06, 2021, 09:05:48 AM

When the mounts were replaced last year I went with a "lag/stud"
You can bed the lag part in some epoxy so it will not loosen and have machine nuts on the mount.
This gives me peace of mind when the motor has to come out in the future that the stringer holes won't get to loose
to hold.

Ron Hill · March 06, 2021, 10:59:47 AM

Jim : The main reason that people change out their M35 BC engine mounts is because they spill oil or antifreeze on the mounts and they get soft. This is especially true of the FWD port side mount under the oil filter.

I wrote a Mainsheet tech note article w/picture on cutting a slot and placing a plastic food storage cup on that mount to protect it while changing the oil filter. Also how to drill holes in the oil filter and drain most of the oil before completely unscrewing it from the engine.

A thought

Rortega46 · March 06, 2021, 03:31:47 PM

Jim: I am not sure if I need to change engine mounts but I started looking into it this week. After sailing on a friend's Hunter 33 with a smaller Kabota I was amazed at the lack of vibration and how quiet it was. However it's possible the Universal M35B and the Kabota are apples and oranges and not a good comparison. Engine vibration also came up this week as I re-calibrated my tachometer and adjusted down idle speed. What is your idle rpm? If I set it @ 800 there is too much vibration, 900 is much better, and 1000 is very smooth but seems to fast and loud for an idle.

Also, with the engine running, I use the prybar to lift the engine which greatly reduced vibration. I plan to tighten the engine mount nuts first to see if this helps. After that I might consider changing engine mounts but need to investigate further to make sure they are bad. I am not in a rush to change mounts but will be looking for a less expensive alternative if I do.
.

Jim: it is possible oil may have spilled on the forward mount. I saw your main sheet note about the plastic food storage cup to protect them out. That looks to be a handy hack and I will give it a try before I change oil again.

Is there a way to test and confirm mounts are bad?

Jim Hardesty · March 06, 2021, 06:32:16 PM

QuoteAfter sailing on a friend's Hunter 33 with a smaller Kabota I was amazed at the lack of vibration and how quiet it was. However it's possible the Universal M35B and the Kabota are apples and oranges and not a good comparison.

Randy,
Shamrock runs very smooth and quiet. Much quieter with the blower off. I believe the recommended idle speed is 1000 RPMs. I do have mine set about 800 and throttle up till it runs smooth. I think it shifts easier and smoother.
My two cents is to check your engine alignment and tighten engine mounts. To do a proper engine alignment the cutlass bearing needs to be in good shape.
I don't know of a better way to check engine mounts than with a prybar.
There was a factory recall on the front engine mounting brackets. They were breaking at a 90deg bend. Worth a close look.
Hope that helps,
Jim

Rortega46 · March 07, 2021, 06:31:03 AM

Jim:
Owner's manual says idle s/b 800-1,000, and runs much smoother at 1,000. I'll leave it at 850 for now. Cutlass bearing changed 4 years ago, and I'll get the diver to check it when he cleans the bottom next month. I'll also take a close look at the front engine mount brackets based on your suggestion. Waiting on bad weather to tighten nuts on mounts, but for now it's good spring weather and time to sail when I can.

Stu Jackson · March 07, 2021, 09:44:11 AM

Quote from: Rortega46 on March 07, 2021, 06:31:03 AM
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I'll also take a close look at the front engine mount brackets based on your suggestion. ......
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Randy,

This is from 2006: https://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,2804.0.html

In reply #1 is a link to this: https://c34.org/bbs/index.php?topic=2738.0

Critical Upgrades, page 1, suggests one checks the engine service bulletins.

May be different brackets, same issue of checking bulletins.

Good luck.

Jim Hardesty · March 07, 2021, 10:19:18 AM

Randy,
One of the great lists here is the "critical upgrades". Catalina continually upgraded so there is little that applies to the MKll. The two that stick out in my mind are the motor bracket and a sleeve that reinforces the drive tang for the fresh water pump. This is from my poor memory so if I'm incorrect please don't beat me up too much.
I would recommend that all C34 owners read and use that great information.
Jim