Canvas Grommet pulled out

[Buddy Gold]

One of my window covering grommets, pulled out of the fiberglass. Can I fill the hole with something and when it hardens screw it back in. Please Please Please

[Stu Jackson]

Buddy, yes there is.  The easiest material I've found to use is MarineTex.  It is a two part, easy to mix epoxy.  In each small box is a thin can of hardner and a small tub of epoxy.  Each of them has handy screw on tops.  No syringes involved.  Mix a small batch up, and glob it into the hole with a Popsicle stick.  Let it set for a day, sand the surface down smooth, re-drill, and refasten.

There are many other epoxies, but I've found this to be the easiest to use, has a superb shelf life because of the separate materials and secure screw tops, and is relatively inexpensive.  You can also buy a smaller model of it that's a fast setting version but it's only in gray, not white.

[Buddy Gold]

Marine Tex it is,  Thanks

[Ron Hill]

Buddy : If you are really in a hurry you can buy 5 minute epoxy and mix it up like Stu said. 
I'd wait about a hour of two before I'd drill a pilot hole. 

Also look at the female snap on the canvas and make sure it isn't bent or just replace it!!

A few thoughts

[KWKloeber]

buddy

Serendipity. I wanted to write this up on our wiki.

The question is, do you want a permanent fix or one that may pull out again (if a screw pulled out, my experience is that it's likely to pull out again.)

Picture it like installing a deck fitting by screwing into a backing plate.  Same idea fixing a stripped-out screw hole.

I've done this 2-dozen times over the past 30 years (canvas snaps, light teak fastenings, other hardware) where I couldn't get behind the surface.  A permanent fix needs material BEHIND/AROUND the hole so that the screw bites into something to resist pull-out -- not just IN THE hole (otherwise it's temporary.)  If you fill the hole, the 'poxy bonds to only the thin edge of the f'glass hole and has a very low pull-out resistance.  And redrilling cuts away most of what you have just put into the hole -- as well, some 'poxy will chip off the thin edge of the panel leaving the screw less bite/holding power. 

I've used different ways to do this so screws will NEVER strip out again.  The method depends on how strong "a pull" there'll be.  #2 or #3 may work for you.

1) Use an anchor (like a plastic wall anchor.)
* Get a 1/4" anchor w/ the gripper wings behind the head (see pic 1.)  Cut away the wings so 'poxy will flow out the holes (depending on the thickness of the f'glass you may need to vary this - like drilling a hole thru the anchor, behind the wings.)
* Block off the hole in the anchor below the openings (like a piece of wet paper towel poked down in there to block the 'poxy flow (or whatever - it doesn't matter you'll push it out later.)
* Cut a West Systems 'poxy syringe so it fits tightly in the anchor hole.
* Put a tiny bit of THICK 'poxy on the anchor behind the head and insert it.  You want a snuggle up fit so drill accordingly.
* Inject THICK 'poxy into the anchor w/ a West System 'poxy syringe -- as much as necessary to ooze out behind the head and panel -- You want to force 'poxy out of the anchor wing holes.
* Insert a WAXED screw, just a little tightened, pull/twist the anchor slightly -- so the anchor and 'poxy get squished around behind the hole/f'glass.
* Push the anchor in flush, hold the head of the anchor w/ a needle nose if necessary, drive in the screw (to spread the anchor - see pic 2.)
* When the 'poxy JUST kicks (depends on temp and type hardener) remove the screw.
* Let 'er fully cure, open up the path w/ a drill if necessary, and drive your new snap in place.
* Best to get a snap fastener with a longer screw -- they come with up to about a 3/4" or 1" long screw.
Voila' - permanent waterproof fix.

2) A Well Nut
* Get a snap that uses a machine screw (either with a hole for a machine screw or w/ the machine screw already attached.)
* Get a well nut for a 1/4" or 5/16" hole, brass or stainless threads.  See pic 3.
* Insert, tighten down w/ the snap - see pic. 
Done.  Voila' - permanent waterproof fix

3) Make an epoxy anchor
Easier said than done? (it's actually simple to do w/ a foam earplug from the dollar store -- and it works great!)
* Drill a "larger" hole, under the diameter of the snap head (or whatever you are attaching so it will cover/hide your fix.)
* Tape all around the hole and protect the whole area so 'poxy doesn't get on the f'glass.
* Soak the earplug in 'poxy (resin/hardener, no or very little thickener) -- you want the foam to soak up the resin so you want a low viscosity.)
* Push the earplug into the hole so it's at least half inside.  See pic 4 courtesy of West Systems.
* Caution - 'poxy will run down (like squeezing water out of a sponge) so heed the warning to tape off and protect the area.
* Let it JUST begin to kick, NOT full cure.
* Slice off the earplug w/ a razor blade while it's still soft, LIGHTLY clean up around it w/ acetone.
* Let 'poxy fully cure, then redrill using a longer screwed snap. 
Voila' - permanent waterproof fix for a tapping screw (or in olden daze my grandfather called a "Parker Screw" (i.e., Parker-Kalon.))

4) Insert a 'poxy backing plate
* Drill out a little larger to clean up the hole.
* Fill behind the hole w/ expanding foam insulation in a can (obviously if there's a HUGE VOID behind the j'glass this doesn't work well, or it takes multiple applications of foam to fill it.  I've filled some large voids (w x h, not deep) by foaming a circle around the hole to create a dam behind the f'glass.)  CAREFUL, you don't need foam all over - it makes a mess.  Protect the work area from foam that WILL expand out of the hole. 
* After it cures, cut off the excess foam (which WILL exit the hole) and clean up w/ solvent.
* Use a bent finishing nail or a hex (Allen) wrench to create a void for the 'poxy "backing plate" in the soft foam behind/adjacent to the hole (see pic 5 courtesy West Systems.)
* Protect the area (from oozing poxy) w/tape.
* Fill w/ very thick 'poxy using a West Syringe.  Just as it kicks, slice off any excess 'poxy w/ a razor blade. Clean up w/ acetone.  You can also fill, then cover the hole w/ tape to keep poxy from oozing out of a vertical surface.
* Redrill, use a longer screwed snap.
Voila' - permanent waterproof fix.

[Ron Hill]

Buddy : Ken is correct that male snap has too short a screw. It needs to be at least an inch long. 
It appears from your picture of the hole - that that snap has been a problem for a long time, so really inspect/replace the female portion!!

A few thoughts

[Buddy Gold]

Lucky for me, it is on a hatch cover that hardly ever gets open and I could live with probably never opening it again.  But I'm a do it right or not at all.  Some great idea's to investigate.  Thanks to all that took the time to respond.

[KWKloeber]

Lucky for me, it is on a hatch cover that hardly ever gets open and I could live with probably never opening it again.  But I'm a do it right or not at all.  Some great idea's to investigate.  Thanks to all that took the time to respond.

Buddy
I may have misunderstood the context -- Is (WAS!) the snap screwed into a thick substrate (Ron's comment on screw length) -- It appeared like it was going thru a relatively thin area, say cockpit coming with a liner behind it with no access to the void?

Two different types of "pull-out fixes."