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Author Topic: Canvas Grommet pulled out  (Read 153 times)

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Buddy Gold

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Canvas Grommet pulled out
« on: September 01, 2020, 09:45:27 AM »

One of my window covering grommets, pulled out of the fiberglass. Can I fill the hole with something and when it hardens screw it back in. Please Please Please
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Stu Jackson

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Re: Canvas Grommet pulled out
« Reply #1 on: September 01, 2020, 11:23:17 AM »

Buddy, yes there is.  The easiest material I've found to use is MarineTex.  It is a two part, easy to mix epoxy.  In each small box is a thin can of hardner and a small tub of epoxy.  Each of them has handy screw on tops.  No syringes involved.  Mix a small batch up, and glob it into the hole with a Popsicle stick.  Let it set for a day, sand the surface down smooth, re-drill, and refasten.

There are many other epoxies, but I've found this to be the easiest to use, has a superb shelf life because of the separate materials and secure screw tops, and is relatively inexpensive.  You can also buy a smaller model of it that's a fast setting version but it's only in gray, not white.
« Last Edit: September 01, 2020, 12:21:19 PM by Stu Jackson »
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Buddy Gold

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Re: Canvas Grommet pulled out
« Reply #2 on: September 01, 2020, 12:41:55 PM »

Marine Tex it is,  Thanks
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Ron Hill

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Re: Canvas Grommet pulled out
« Reply #3 on: September 01, 2020, 03:00:49 PM »

Buddy : If you are really in a hurry you can buy 5 minute epoxy and mix it up like Stu said. 
I'd wait about a hour of two before I'd drill a pilot hole. 

Also look at the female snap on the canvas and make sure it isn't bent or just replace it!!

A few thoughts
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KWKloeber

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Re: Canvas Grommet pulled out
« Reply #4 on: September 01, 2020, 05:46:07 PM »

buddy

Serindipity. I wanted to write this up on our wiki.

The question is, do you need a permanent fix or one that may pull out again (if a screw pulls out, my experience is that it's likely to pull out again.)  I've done this 2 dozen times over the past 30 years (canvas snaps, light teak fastenings, other hardware where I couldn't get behind the surface.)  A permanent fix needs material BEHIND/AROUND the hole, not just IN THE hole -- so the screw bites into something to resist pull-out (otherwise I've found it a temporary fix.)  Picture it like installing a fitting by screwing into a backing plate.  Same idea.  If you fill the hole, the poxy bonds to only the thin edge of the f'glass hole and has low resistance to pull-out.  Redrilling cuts away most of what you have just put into the hole -- and some may chip off the thin edge leaving less bite/hold for the screw. 

I've used different ways to do this with holes so screws NEVER strip out again.  The method depends on how strong "a pull" there will be.  #2 or #3 may work for you.

1) Use an anchor (like a plastic wall anchor.)
* Best to get a snap with a longer screw -- they come up to about a 3/4" or 1" long screw. 
* Get a 1/4" anchor w/ the little wings behind the head.  See pic below.
* Drill 1/16" hole across the anchor, behind the head.
* Block off the anchor hole below the little wings (a cut off wooden matchstick, wooden bbq skewer, toothpicks - whatever doesn't matter) you'll drill it out later.
* Cut a West System syringe so it's fits tight in the anchor hole.
* Slather a little thickened epoxy on the small wings, and on the body behind the head, push it into the hole.
* Inject poxy into the anchor -- the pressure forces out poxy out of the anchor behind the hole.
* insert a screw, just a little tightened, pull out, twist the anchor --  so it and poxy get squished behind the hole.
* Push it in flush and let 'er cure.
* Redrill if necessary (for a long screw - drill out the wooden plug.) sometimes w/a short acrew you don't need to do anything.
Voila' - permanent waterproof fix.

2) A Well Nut
* Get a snap that uses a machine screw (they come with a hole to use a machine screw or w/ the machine screw attached.)
* Get a well nut for a 1/4" or 5/16" hole, brass or stainless threads.  See pic.
* Insert, tighten, see pic. done.
Voila' - permanent waterproof fix.

3) Make an epoxy anchor
Easier said than done? (it's actually simple to do w/ a foam ear plug from the Dollar Store -- and works great!)
* Drill a "larger" hole, just under the diameter of the snap head (so it hides your fix.)
* Tape all around the hole and protect the whole area so epoxy doesn't get on the f'glass.
* Soak the ear plug in epoxy/resin (no hardener or very little (you want the foam to soak up the resin so you want it low viscosity.)
* Push the ear plug into the hole so it's at least half inside.  Caution - poxy will run down (like squeezing water out of a sponge) so heed the warning to tape off and protect the area.
* Let it JUST begin to kick, not full cure.
* Slice off the ear plug w/ a razor .blade while it's soft, clean up the area w/ acetone (LIGHTLY.)
* Redrill, use a longer screwed snap.  See pic courtesy of West Systems.
Voila' - permanent waterproof fix.

4) Insert epoxy backing for the screw
* Drill out a little larger to clean up the hole.
* Fill behind the hole w/ expanding foam insulation in a can (obviously if there's a HUGE void behind the hole this doesn't work well, or it takes multiple applications of foam to fill it.  I've filled some huge voids by carefully foaming a circle of foam dam behind the f'glass.)  CAREFUL, you don't need foam all over - it makes a mess.  Protect the work area from foam expanding out the hole. 
* After it cures, cut off the excess foam (which WILL exit the hole) and clean up w/ solvent.
* Use a bent finishing nail or a hex (Allen) wrench to create a void (see pic courtesy West Systems) in the soft foam behind/alongside the hole.
* Protect the area w/ tape (from oozing poxy.)
* Fill w/ thickened poxy using a West syringe.  Just as it kicks, slice off any excess w/ a razor blade. Clean up w/ acetone.  You can fill then cover w/ tape to keep poxy from oozing out of a vertical surface.
* Redrill, use a longer screwed snap.
Voila' - permanent waterproof fix.


« Last Edit: September 01, 2020, 06:13:13 PM by KWKloeber »
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Ron Hill

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Re: Canvas Grommet pulled out
« Reply #5 on: September 02, 2020, 01:43:30 PM »

Buddy : Ken is correct that male snap has too short a screw. It needs to be at least an inch long. 
It appears from your picture of the hole - that that snap has been a problem for a long time, so really inspect/replace the female portion!!

A few thoughts
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Buddy Gold

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Re: Canvas Grommet pulled out
« Reply #6 on: September 02, 2020, 04:19:56 PM »

Lucky for me, it is on a hatch cover that hardly ever gets open and I could live with probably never opening it again.  But I'm a do it right or not at all.  Some great idea's to investigate.  Thanks to all that took the time to respond.
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KWKloeber

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Re: Canvas Grommet pulled out
« Reply #7 on: September 02, 2020, 06:08:08 PM »


Lucky for me, it is on a hatch cover that hardly ever gets open and I could live with probably never opening it again.  But I'm a do it right or not at all.  Some great idea's to investigate.  Thanks to all that took the time to respond.


Buddy
I may have misunderstood the context -- Is (WAS!) the snap screwed into a thick substrate (Ron's comment on screw length) -- It appeared like it was going thru a relatively thin area, say cockpit coming with a liner behind it with no access to the void?

Two different types of "pull-out fixes."

 
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