saw a post of a homemade belt tesioner tool, turnbuckle -can't find post

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captran

I looked at a post a while back using a turnbuckle from Ace to grind down the ends and made a belt tensioner.  would love to re read that post and get the part number but my searches are coming up empty.  My computer search skills are apparently low.  I thought it was posted in critical upgrades- nada that I can find though I see a reference to something from msc direct.  anyone remember what that is?  had a squeal at start up today briefly and would really like to stay ahead of the belt.  and does anyone know the belt number the for Universal Westerbeke M 35 for the Mark 2 1997 model?
Randy Thies
Voyager  1997 #1345
was Florida, now Anacortes Wa

Jon W

MSC Direct sells a belt tensioner. They call it a "Belt Tension Jack". The part number on their website is BJ10.
Jon W.
s/v Della Jean
Hull #493, 1987 MK 1, M25XP, 35# Mantus, Std Rig
San Diego, Ca

KWKloeber

Capt

I am going to link back to that message via this thread:
https://groups.io/g/Catalina30/topic/36364230#104028
The C34 link and pics are in there.

I did it that way cuz in that topic I explained my idea to improve on the turnbuckle and conform the eyes it to the round pulley (the thread explains the two items on the right in the attached pic.)  The one on the left I considered cutting/spreading the eye, but it appears to be cast so that might not work. 

I didn't buy them to try yet cuz I'm looking locally for closed-eye routing (cheaper) eye bolts.  I'm thinking --  cut the eye/spread it open so it matches the curvature of the pulley??







 
Twenty years from now you'll be more disappointed by the things you didn't do, than by the ones you did.
So throw off the bowlines.  Sail away from the safe harbor.  Catch the tradewinds in your sails.
Explore.  Dream.  Discover.   -Mark Twain

captran

Thank you, that is the post I had seen.  I followed the links within the links to see the pics I remember seeing.    I have often been reluctant to try anything new, but know I should bite the bullet and try it.  Years ago I changed the belt, but recently when the yard charged me $300 to come out when I was not on the boat and ran the motor for 20 minutes taking pics and video to support a range of other issues they proposed, and ended up tightening the belt (which seemed to fix the squeal until yesterday)...guess I have to get my shibletts together and figure it out.   The more I look, the more confused I become.  currently the belt say 761084FC followed by 31 on ne line, 32 on another and 33 on the third line.  ie 761084FC  31  , 761084FC  32,     76 1084FC  33. The outside length looks like 41.1/4".   I had bought as a a possible spare two napa belts  XL 25 7405 (outside measurement 41 1/8" and napa XL 25 7410 with an outside measurement of 41 5/8", so if the time comes to replace the belt, I would opt for the 7410???  I am just uncertain if the shorter one would work and how much rotation/swing adjusting the arm allows.  and since the napa numbers don't seem to line up with anything other posters are using leaves me even more uncertain.
Randy Thies
Voyager  1997 #1345
was Florida, now Anacortes Wa

KWKloeber

Capt

If your belt was squealing there's a good chance it's due to wear. What belt do you run?
Replace the belt, it's just about the CHEAPEST thing you can do on your engine.
It's possible the yard OVER tightened it to get if the squeal and that can ruin the bearings on your alternator or water pump, or both.
Get the Dayco Top Cog belt (two, so you have the spare and need to hunting for one when you need it.)
The 25 (post alt bracket mod) and 35 use the same belt.
Twenty years from now you'll be more disappointed by the things you didn't do, than by the ones you did.
So throw off the bowlines.  Sail away from the safe harbor.  Catch the tradewinds in your sails.
Explore.  Dream.  Discover.   -Mark Twain

captran

I edited my post above to include the current belt.  The belt on there looks like it's in excellent condition.  there is no cracking or apparent wear, no broken nubs or wear marks.  It hadn't squealed since they tightened it in June and we've used it every day since with no squeal until a brief one yesterday at start up.  although it looks like there could be a hair more than 1/2" flex in the belt when I push in the middle of the belt between the alternator and the main fly wheel.
Randy Thies
Voyager  1997 #1345
was Florida, now Anacortes Wa

Stu Jackson

Quote from: captran on August 16, 2020, 08:05:22 AM
>>>>>>>>>
It hadn't squealed since they tightened it in June and we've used it every day since with no squeal until a brief one yesterday at start up.>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

What was the condition of your battery bank when you started up?  If you were on the hook and they were used the day & night before, the bank would need as much charge as possible at startup, which would load the alternator and the belt.  Do you have an external regulator?
Stu Jackson, C34 IA Secretary, #224 1986, "Aquavite"  Cowichan Bay, BC  Maple Bay Marina  SR/FK, M25, Rocna 10 (22#) (NZ model)

"There is no problem so great that it can't be solved."

KWKloeber

Cap

It may appear fine on the surface but how is the bevel? Glazed a bit (leads to slippage as Stu is questioning under high load.). I've found that if she's tensioned properly and there's a very narrow window of adjustment between squeal/no squeal, it may be time to change.
It's difficult to say w/o a few close up pics of the belt and pulleys. Maybe your pulley needs attention?
Flying blind here.

With the very close adjustment tolerance I find it better to take a belt home and have them measure to match it rather than get one ahead if time.
On the Top Cog tho, it might not be a stick belt so good to call and order in two at the length and pick the one that works when you have yours in hand. IIRC Advance Auto carries Dayco. It's the belt my Wb distributor recommends (and RC prefers) with the NAPA second. The "top" cog is what makes it better for our small pulleys.
Twenty years from now you'll be more disappointed by the things you didn't do, than by the ones you did.
So throw off the bowlines.  Sail away from the safe harbor.  Catch the tradewinds in your sails.
Explore.  Dream.  Discover.   -Mark Twain

captran

Stu, Batteries were not down huge, maybe 40 amps of the 440 amps  (about 220 in each bank, so only 20 amps  down in each bank).  I'll post some pics when I get home in 3 or 4 days.  I did find a different number when I had the door partion off for oil  change, and it matched with the napa 7405.  I remeasured the belt deflection carefully and definitely 3/4 of an inch, so I think it must have loosened from when the mechanic was aboard in June and tightened it. Squealed once ll summer, 2 days ago after daily use.   (the longest we ever stayed in one place without running the engine was three days.    I looked closely at the nubs and say no wear on the inside.  Those intermittent issues are always the tough ones, so I appreciate all your ideas and suggestions.
Randy Thies
Voyager  1997 #1345
was Florida, now Anacortes Wa

mdidomenico

Quote from: Jon W on August 15, 2020, 08:25:48 PM
MSC Direct sells a belt tensioner. They call it a "Belt Tension Jack". The part number on their website is BJ10.

i purchased this recently.  it broke on first use :(

1989 Cat34 #856, original m-25xp

Phil Spicer

   Think I posted this in the fall or winter of 2014. Takes a little more than a grinder (great idea) but this was my
first thought. Measure distance between pulleys before you buy a turnbuckle.
Phil & Marsha,Sandusky Sailing Club. Steamboat is #789,tall/wing-Unv M25XP/Hurth ZF 50 trans.

Ron Hill

Capt : I found that on the M35BC and M25XPB engine that I never used my belt tensioner!!!  :shock:
It was just easier to push on the alternator and tighten the bolt than it was to set up the tensioner!  :thumb:

A thought



Ron, Apache #788

Jon W

I didn't loosen the alternator bolts enough and mine broke too. I didn't want to throw it away so I drilled a counterbore in a piece of wood and it worked fine. Since then I changed to a wood dowel with a counterbore the end of the tensioner fits into.
Jon W.
s/v Della Jean
Hull #493, 1987 MK 1, M25XP, 35# Mantus, Std Rig
San Diego, Ca

Stu Jackson

Summary from a loong time:

they are cheap

they break

(ever buy something from Harbor Freight?)   :D

the CONCEPT is EXCELLENT for Mark I M25 series engine alternator supports

EXCELLENT

It is the ONLY way to be a one armed paper hanger known to man.

If you have help to tension your alternator, like two other helping hands, then it doesn't bloody matter 'cuz you don't need the tool, so please stop complaining about it.

If you don't - it's a lifesaver.

What's so hard???

Why rag on it?
Stu Jackson, C34 IA Secretary, #224 1986, "Aquavite"  Cowichan Bay, BC  Maple Bay Marina  SR/FK, M25, Rocna 10 (22#) (NZ model)

"There is no problem so great that it can't be solved."