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Author Topic: sole: blackened areas  (Read 220 times)

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crieders

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sole: blackened areas
« on: February 21, 2020, 09:15:29 AM »

the 8 foot long sole piece has several blackened areas, I assume from water getting in underneath
I was going to replace it but I am told that what I measured as 3/8 is non standard and does not exist anymore...only 1/2 inch.
What is the standard thickness of the sole in our boats? Mine is hull 1022
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Cliff Rieders, c34 tall rig, 1990, hull #1022

Noah

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Re: sole: blackened areas
« Reply #1 on: February 21, 2020, 10:49:49 AM »

Not a direct answer to your question but... it is thin... and I do not know a replacement source in true teak veneer plywood. I would recommend strip it, sand it (not too deep), spot wood bleach, and varnish.
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1990 hull #1014, San Diego, CA,  Fin Keel,
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Stu Jackson

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Re: sole: blackened areas
« Reply #2 on: February 21, 2020, 10:52:50 AM »

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
What is the standard thickness of the sole in our boats? Mine is hull 1022

Cliff, take off another (small) piece and measure it.
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Stu Jackson, C34 IA Secretary, #224 1986, "Aquavite"  Cowichan Bay, BC  Maple Bay Marina  SR/FK, M25, Rocna 10 (22#) (NZ model)

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ghebbns

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Re: sole: blackened areas
« Reply #3 on: February 21, 2020, 01:58:32 PM »

My boat is pretty close to yours (Hull #1040).  I can't remember exactly, but I think I went with the 1/2 inch teak and holly plywood and it has been fine.  It also comes in 1/4 inch.  What someone suggested to me after was to use the 1/4 inch and epoxy a sheet of 1/8 inch plywood to it for an exact fit.
« Last Edit: February 21, 2020, 04:03:18 PM by ghebbns »
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1990 C34 #1040
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Jeff Kaplan

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Re: sole: blackened areas
« Reply #4 on: February 21, 2020, 03:10:35 PM »

Cliff,  back in 2005 I replaced the sole. I found a company in Fl. Wood Panel Products that had the best price and quality, they are still in business. I got the 9mm, close to 3/8 in thickness,  sheets, on my '86 I needed 2. You can cut it yourself, but since the teak/holly is very expensive, I had them ship it to a local lumber yard and I had a master millrite cut it for me. Obviously you need to keep the old sole pieces for the template, so the lines match. Once you get it cut, the most important thing you must do is to seal the bottom, sides and top with varnish and poly. I did 3 coats on the bottom and sides with a 50/50 mix of varnish and thinner, followed with 3 more coats of varnish. On the top, I did 4 coats of varnish, followed with 4 coats of poly. To this day, it still looks like new. Also, with the 9mm, there is enough thickness that it can be sanded. Let me add another word of advice, finish the bottom first, then bring all the pieces to the boat and lay each piece in place, you might have to sand the sides for an exact fit. Once done, seal the sides and do the top, the more poly, the longer it will last. I did buy a marine rug runner to go over the long straight section, protect your investment. Good luck, time consuming but worth it, makes the cabin look new.
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#219, 1986 tall rig/shallow draft. "sedona sunset" atlantic-salem,ma
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