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Author Topic: potable water pump  (Read 503 times)

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gwp

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potable water pump
« on: June 19, 2019, 05:02:09 PM »

1988 C34 #568
My (probably original) potable water pump runs constantly when switched on at the electrical panel. The forward tank is full and the aft tank is closed off. What is throwing me is that there is no air coming from faucet when running indicating it isn't drawing air in the lines, and.....I'm pretty confident there aren't any leaks anywhere. I suspect the pressure switch isn't working? In an effort to check it, I clamped down on the discharge hose at the pump and the pump still runs constantly. Questions.....Do you agree on pressure switch malfunction? Can the switch be replace on a properly working pump or.....assuming the switch is bad......must I replace the whole pump/switch assembly? Thanks much for your help!
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Stu Jackson

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Re: potable water pump
« Reply #1 on: June 19, 2019, 05:26:49 PM »

By "no air," does this mean you're getting water but the pump won't shut off?

If so, you have an air leak somewhere.

I found mine by tracing the hoses and there was a kink where the hose went under the engine to the head sink.  I replaced ALL of the hoses, from the pump to both faucets.
« Last Edit: June 19, 2019, 05:27:08 PM by Stu Jackson »
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Stu Jackson, C34 IA Secretary, #224 1986, "Aquavite"  Cowichan Bay, BC  Maple Bay Marina  SR/FK, M25, Rocna 10 (22#) (NZ model)

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KWKloeber

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Re: potable water pump
« Reply #2 on: June 19, 2019, 05:48:09 PM »

It might possibly help if you provided complete info like pump mfgr/model.
Yrs ago I posted a shurflo pump troubleshooting guide on the TechWiki - in addition the shurflo tech says a bad  valve in the pump can cause the condition.
Some pumps you can replace the switch.
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Ron Hill

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Re: potable water pump
« Reply #3 on: June 20, 2019, 02:51:07 PM »

gwp : If you find that it is the pump (like I did) you might ask the manufacturer and if the motor runs they just might replace the pump for free - if you send it to them!!  Worth asking!

A thought
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Ron, Apache #788

Sdsailor

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Re: potable water pump
« Reply #4 on: June 20, 2019, 11:25:18 PM »

gwp,  i bet if you open up the pump, you'll find the problem and be able to fix it. Since its running, theres a chance its an easy fix. i just installed a whale gusher foot pump in line before the electric pump. both work great with each other and it provides a little water conservation as well as a redundancy aspect.  good luck!
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gwp

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Re: potable water pump
« Reply #5 on: June 23, 2019, 04:23:35 PM »

Thanks for response. Shurflo model 220. Took switch off pump to see if I could find problem. Put back together and still pumps with strong pressure but pressures switch won't kick it off. No complaints here Shurflo..... 31 years ain't bad. Thanks much for help
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Ron Hill

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Re: potable water pump
« Reply #6 on: June 27, 2019, 04:47:48 PM »

gwp : You probably have some debias inside the pump.  It is somewhat fragile. That's why I recommend that ownesr change the course fresh water screen (under the galley sink) to a fine screen.  Mainsheet tech note article (with the screen # ) 

A thought 
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gwp

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Re: potable water pump
« Reply #7 on: June 28, 2019, 05:42:08 AM »

Thanks Ron..... Probably good idea. New pump just arrived and on weekend agenda. If I get another 31 years on this shurflo it'll definitely be my last....Thanks for help
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Roland Gendreau

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Re: potable water pump
« Reply #8 on: June 30, 2019, 03:50:39 PM »

As our Shurflo pump has been making an increasing amount of noise, I purchased a new pump and had it aboard just in case it failed while on a cruise.  Last week I got around to replacing it, with another Shurflo.    In the process, I reattached the platform which had broken free.   The new pump is so quiet, you almost can't hear it running.   It used to be a real PITA to realize we left the old pump on at night,  and someone (me) had to get up to shut the noisy thing off!   

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Roland Gendreau
1992 MK 1.5
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Bristol, RI

csimmerling

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Re: potable water pump
« Reply #9 on: July 17, 2019, 04:03:45 AM »

Roland - I leave my pump on whenever I'm onboard. Does your system have a leak? Mine doesn't run unless I'm using water. Should I turn it off anyway?
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"Natterling", #148 1986 mk 1 fin keel std rig, Port Jefferson, NY

RV61

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Re: potable water pump
« Reply #10 on: July 17, 2019, 08:25:50 AM »

csimmerling,
Just remember to turn it off anytime you leave boat even for just a while. 2 different friends left on went to dinner ashore and had hose pop on output side of system and water tanks drained into boat. Just a thought.
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Rick V
Interlude
1986 Hull #237
Lake Erie

Patches

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Re: potable water pump
« Reply #11 on: July 17, 2019, 09:05:27 AM »

One thing I just figured out on mine, a Flojet, was something others might check.  My pump cycled sometimes with the faucet "off."  Looking underneath the sink, I discovered a leak in the inlet port to the pump.  My pump had a combination plastic strainer/inlet hose barb and the plastic had cracked where it met the pump.  It was just begging to be accidentally kicked while you operate the manual foot pump to drain the ice box, and this was probably what happened in the past.  Apparently, a prior owner had done just that, and then attempted to "glue" it back together.

I disconnected everything and took the pump home.  The innards were fine, and it just needed the inlet hose barb replaced. Because there is already a strainer upstream--between the tank manifold and the pump--I searched online and found the proper Flojet hose barb for about $5 on Amazon.

While I had everything apart, however, I took the time to install a manual freshwater (cold only) spout on the galley sink.  The next time the electric pump decides it wants to go on strike, I wanted the ability to manually pump freshwater until I fixed the problem.  So I did the following:
 
1. Disconnected the existing foot pump from the ice box drain.  This never worked well, and never got rid of all the water in the bottom.

2. Attached new 1/2" water tubing to drain the ice box directly to the bilge.  I'd rather run the bilge pump.

3. "T" in a new 1/2" line between the freshwater strainer and freshwater pump to the existing manual foot pump.

4.  Ran a new 1/2" supply line from the manual foot pump to a new Sea Dog telescoping spout ($8) mounted in the "hole" between the two sinks and aft of the existing pressurized galley faucet.  To do this, I cut a hole for an inspection port ($20) behind the dinette cushion above the battery compartment.  Although still somewhat difficult to tighten, it allowed me to tighten the backing nut under the new cold water spout without removing the sink.

5.  Replaced the 1" Galley drain hose and re-routed it more directly to the Marelon thru-hull. To do this, I replaced the 90 degree fitting (which I also discovered was cracked and was not Marelon) with a Marelon 3/4" threaded to 1" hose barb ($8).  Now instead of the galley drain hose running down, around, and underneath the shelf for the freshwater pump, it just goes straight down from the sink to the new 1" Marelon hose barb.

After tightening things up, I now have a foot operated freshwater pump to the galley sink, as well as pressurized water.  Much cleaner arrangement below, and the only "cost" was not being able to remove ice box water directly into the galley drain line with the foot pump.  This was acceptable for me.

Note:  I was persuaded to use a foot pump-instead of a hand pump-- for manual pumping by reading up on what others had done.  The consensus was that it was much easier to use the foot pump and have both hands free at the sink for whatever task you are trying to do there.

Patches
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Jon W

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Re: potable water pump
« Reply #12 on: July 17, 2019, 01:26:48 PM »

FWIW- I also replaced the fridge drain foot pump with a 1/2 hose, but added a pvc ball valve to shut the drain off to keep cold air from bleeding out through the hose.
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Jon W.
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Hull #493, 1987 MK 1, M25XP, Manson Supreme 35
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