Raw water leak behind raw water pump

[KWKloeber]

Stu

This was from my Wb distributor a couple yrs back....
locktite 518, threebond 1215, rtv sealant GMS (gm brand).

https://www.henkel-adhesives.com/us/en/product/flexible-sealants/loctite_518.html
https://www.techsil.co.uk/media/pdf/TDS/TBSI19040-tds.pdf

Here's the red Hi-Temp RTV I referred to.
https://www.harborfreight.com/3-oz-rtv-silicone-red-90026.html
Application   Oil Pans, Rear End Housings, Water Pumps, Valve Covers, Thermostat Housings

Can they put up a HarboUr Freight by Tues?

I've read that mixing in a few drops of water into the RTV gasket cures much faster.  One added drops of latex paint to indicate mixing.  I would think food coloring in H2O would work.  Any material science geeks out there?

Hey if you use 795, not only won't you have a leak, you won't need the studs!

Could the disemboweled stud hole be from some metal contamination or crappy casting of the cover?  Just doesn't seem water-caused.

[Stu Jackson]

>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Could the disemboweled stud hole be from some metal contamination or crappy casting of the cover?  Just doesn't seem water-caused.

Thanks for the info.

Casting is my guess and that of most of the people to whom I've shown that photo.

It will be interesting to see what Vic finds and shares with us.

[KWKloeber]

Stu
EDITED

I'll bet the after-1st-fix oil leak was not at all from the gasket not sealing.  As I said I have seen the Ob bolt on-pump held w/ only two bolts.  So my point - an option for others in such a situation might be to permanently seal the bad hole, and use only the remaining 2 or 3 studs.

OR  -- mine was OEM with the -07 pump. 
Use the adapter plate and M-07 pump instead of the M-16 pump.



The adapter plate on the gear cover.



Permanently seal the hole in the plate for the bad stud, (or it should work to just make a square gasket that covers that hole,) bolt/goop the adapter plate onto the gear cover (solves the leak problem,) and switch to the 202M-07 pump (2-bolt flange mount) OR the Moyer Marine pump -- it's a packless BALL bearing, not carbon bearing pump. Very slick indeed.

[Vic Suben]

Here is a picture of the corroded nut and stud.

[KWKloeber]

Looks like from an unattended pump leak?
Where's the pump flange? I can't tell what's what in that shot.

[Vic Suben]

here is a picture of the corroded nut and stud I hope the picture shows up.  It did not appear in the preview.

Vic

[KWKloeber]

And the other nuts are ok?
Sure looks like it's from a leak. Maybe the close in is deceiving but it looks like there corrosion around the pump base as if it hasn't been serviced or inspected in a LONG time. When was it last off or the pump checked?

[Stu Jackson]

And the other nuts are ok?
Sure looks like it's from a leak. Maybe the close in is deceiving but it looks like there corrosion around the pump base as if it hasn't been serviced or inspected in a LONG time. When was it last off or the pump checked?

Ken, ya really gotta start taking notes!!!    Vic wrote back on page 1:

I replaced the pump assembly 7 or 8 years ago. 

Say he does the standard 100 hours per year.  That's 700 to 800 hours.  My first go-round showed 1300 hours before my seals required replacement.  I may have noted on page 1 that I got 800 hours out of the last ones before I pulled the pump and replaced them in November last year on what I call my repair #1.   The seals weren't the problem, the disappeared metal holding the stud in was the problem but I was too dumb to notice it. 

I agree that Vic's picture looks just like what one would expect from a leaking water seal.  It appears that this is the lowest stud and nut on the starboard side, although it is hard to tell from the super close-up picture.  Perhaps Vic could answer our questions about which nut it was specifically, to see if we're close.

Vic, your OP said you think the stud is a goner.  From that picture, I think you may be in GREAT luck and it's just a rusted nut, and the stud may be just fine.

I am reminded of the advice on the Critical Upgrades topic:  Watch your engine while it's running.

That rust didn't happen overnight.

My oil leak, by comparison, certainly did.

[KWKloeber]

D'oh!  Ok 7-8, Vic how many impeller changes or jus being pulled for lay up or to check fins?

I has to be the lower nut, how the reinforcing fin intersects the nut/pump base @45 deg (forensically speaking.)

I agree that the stud will be intact.  LOTs of rust penetrant to start off, (with appropriate precautions) alternating with a pencil flame butane torch to heat the nut to try break free from the stud, lots of swearing, some praying, and kind words to the nut no matter how you really feel about it. If the nut is rounded off you may end up needing a needle-nose vice grip.

[KWKloeber]

Stu

How did the test motoring go?

[Stu Jackson]

Since "Hubris" is my middle name, I hesitate to report so far, so good.  I wrote a friend, so I guess it's OK to share, that the leak in Roche Harbor could well have been the swabbie (ME! ) not completing the cleanup from repair #2.  Can't get good help today, can ya?!?

34 hours since November, last two failures were 20 hours each, 40 would be nice, dontcha think?   

Where to next?...

[Stu Jackson]

I went through Dodd Narrows for the first time on Monday and back home yesterday.  Another 10 hours, up to 3550, 45 since the November Devcon repair.  So far...

Vic, what happened with YOUR issue?

[KWKloeber]

Stu.

I happened to run across an ad for Devcon.
Do you recall which you used?

[Stu Jackson]

Do you recall which you used?

Ken,

This one.

57 hours since November, so far, so good.  No hubris involved here.