Finally found oil leak

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glennd3

I noticed oil leaking last summer but could not find the source. Boat was launched today so was able to run the engine. I believe my oil sending unit is the culprit. Very hard to see but I can see oil on the tip of it.  I had thought it was the oil pan gasket or rear main seal so this is actually good. I have looked around on the site but have not found the procedure yet. I think I can remove the alternator and be able to get to it. While I am in this area of the engine is there anything else I should  check or perform maintenance on ? m25xp
Glenn Davis
Knot Yet
1990 Catalina 34 Mk 1.5
Hull 1053
TR/WK
M25XP
Patapsco River
Chesapeake Bay Maryland

KWKloeber

Glenn

Do a search on the site you'll find threads on getting to and replacing the low oil pressure alarm switch. Some nightmare stories also about the exhaust manifold being in the way and it impossible to get a socket on the switch. Not to "alarm" you ( ugggh) but just so you know in case you run into an issue getting a wrench on it.
It's a standard Kubota oil switch if you don't want to get it from Westerbeke.
Twenty years from now you'll be more disappointed by the things you didn't do, than by the ones you did.
So throw off the bowlines.  Sail away from the safe harbor.  Catch the tradewinds in your sails.
Explore.  Dream.  Discover.   -Mark Twain

glennd3

I just read that thread, that was a tough job. I will have to hope my manifold is not in the way.
Glenn Davis
Knot Yet
1990 Catalina 34 Mk 1.5
Hull 1053
TR/WK
M25XP
Patapsco River
Chesapeake Bay Maryland

Ron Hill

#3
Glenn : Look in the Mainsheet tech notes.  I wrote a couple of articles about the Oil sending unit removal/installation (you don't need to remove the manifold) and another on how to "beef-up" a new sending unit so it doesn't develop a leak between the Metal and Bakelite body.

A few thoughts
Ron, Apache #788

Stu Jackson

Glenn, you can use the Knowledgebase spreadsheet to find those articles Ron mentions.
Stu Jackson, C34 IA Secretary, #224 1986, "Aquavite"  Cowichan Bay, BC  Maple Bay Marina  SR/FK, M25, Rocna 10 (22#) (NZ model)

"There is no problem so great that it can't be solved."

glennd3

Quote from: Stu Jackson on April 23, 2019, 03:46:19 PM
Glenn, you can use the Knowledgebase spreadsheet to find those articles Ron mentions.

Thank you , I found them last night. I hope my job will be easier than the one I read aout last year that required cutting sockets and so forth.
Glenn Davis
Knot Yet
1990 Catalina 34 Mk 1.5
Hull 1053
TR/WK
M25XP
Patapsco River
Chesapeake Bay Maryland

glennd3

I have ordered the sender for about 23 dollars from a Kobuta dealer. I took a picture with my phone as I cannot see it. It looks like I should be able to get to it by feel.
Glenn Davis
Knot Yet
1990 Catalina 34 Mk 1.5
Hull 1053
TR/WK
M25XP
Patapsco River
Chesapeake Bay Maryland

Ron Hill

Glenn : If you have an M25XP engine? then the second wire from around the base is perplexing!?!

The wire held in the center (by the Philips head screw) is the + wire going to the engine instrument panel; the - contact is the switch threaded base.     - the other wire is ????

A thought


Ron, Apache #788

KWKloeber

Quote from: Ron Hill on April 28, 2019, 02:55:31 PM
Glenn : If you have an M25XP engine? then the second wire from around the base is perplexing!?!

The wire held in the center (by the Philips head screw) is the + wire going to the engine instrument panel; the - contact is the switch threaded base.     - the other wire is ????

A thought

Ron:  A ground. PO musta had problems w/ the switch making a good engine ground?  Piss poor considering the ring terminal wouldn't make a good connection on either the switch or the block.

Glenn:

The new switch should be a Dryseal thread form (w/red goop already on it) not to use Teflon tape on it.

Confirm that the extra ground wire isn't the negative for something else, like the fuel pump or something cray cray like that, that shouldn't be on the oil switch. I'd check resistance between the engine block and a known good negative, and also to the installed switch body to make sure there's no issue exists which that wire was installed to compensate for (excuse the preposition.)
Twenty years from now you'll be more disappointed by the things you didn't do, than by the ones you did.
So throw off the bowlines.  Sail away from the safe harbor.  Catch the tradewinds in your sails.
Explore.  Dream.  Discover.   -Mark Twain

glennd3

The extra wire did perplex me too. I will try to see where it goes . I had thought that I could do the job without pulling the alternator but to do it properly now I think I should. I had the alternator out last year for a rebuild so that part is not hard. Will keep you posted. PS the boat only had 2 previous owners, so I do not have a lot of extra PO stuff to deal with.
Glenn Davis
Knot Yet
1990 Catalina 34 Mk 1.5
Hull 1053
TR/WK
M25XP
Patapsco River
Chesapeake Bay Maryland

KWKloeber

Would it be easier w/ the starter out?  Just two M8 thread bolts.

Do you have a negative bus or negative power post that the ground might go to.
Twenty years from now you'll be more disappointed by the things you didn't do, than by the ones you did.
So throw off the bowlines.  Sail away from the safe harbor.  Catch the tradewinds in your sails.
Explore.  Dream.  Discover.   -Mark Twain

glennd3

Quote from: KWKloeber on April 28, 2019, 05:54:25 PM
Would it be easier w/ the starter out?  Just two M8 thread bolts.

Do you have a negative bus or negative power post that the ground might go to.

I have to check, I do not know.
Glenn Davis
Knot Yet
1990 Catalina 34 Mk 1.5
Hull 1053
TR/WK
M25XP
Patapsco River
Chesapeake Bay Maryland

glennd3

Quote from: KWKloeber on April 28, 2019, 04:45:32 PM
Quote from: Ron Hill on April 28, 2019, 02:55:31 PM
Glenn : If you have an M25XP engine? then the second wire from around the base is perplexing!?!

The wire held in the center (by the Philips head screw) is the + wire going to the engine instrument panel; the - contact is the switch threaded base.     - the other wire is ????

A thought

Ron:  A ground. PO musta had problems w/ the switch making a good engine ground?  Piss poor considering the ring terminal wouldn't make a good connection on either the switch or the block.

Glenn:

The new switch should be a Dryseal thread form (w/red goop already on it) not to use Teflon tape on it.

Confirm that the extra ground wire isn't the negative for something else, like the fuel pump or something cray cray like that, that shouldn't be on the oil switch. I'd check resistance between the engine block and a known good negative, and also to the installed switch body to make sure there's no issue exists which that wire was installed to compensate for (excuse the preposition.)

The new switch came today and does not have dryseal on it. Do I need Teflon tape or should I get Dryseal or leave plain?
Glenn Davis
Knot Yet
1990 Catalina 34 Mk 1.5
Hull 1053
TR/WK
M25XP
Patapsco River
Chesapeake Bay Maryland

KWKloeber

Glenn

I'd use a little pipe dope. There's a better chance of better electrical contact I think than Teflon. Theoretically the threads would cut thru the tape, but...  just check resistance, body to a known good ground, before buttoning her up.
Twenty years from now you'll be more disappointed by the things you didn't do, than by the ones you did.
So throw off the bowlines.  Sail away from the safe harbor.  Catch the tradewinds in your sails.
Explore.  Dream.  Discover.   -Mark Twain

kh3412

Believe the wire is the glow plug wire you can just see it continue in the top of the picture. Goes behind the motor to the other side.
1987 mk1 a work in progress #618