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Author Topic: Removing Prop Shaft from Coupling - C34 1987 - any words of experience  (Read 332 times)

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Ceilidh II

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Looking for words of wisdom, suggestions for removal of coupling from shaft as I am swapping out old dripless stuffing box for new and having real issues with removing coupling. It must have been off about 8-10 years ago prior to my taking ownership. Have gone through videos, got a professional to coach me. Lots of penetrating oil, 4 bolts attached and after an hour or more moved it about 1/16 - 1/8th of inch, or I really hope I moved it at least that far. I have read differing opinions on heat, also concerned with confined space and I have not uncovered boat (winter storage on the hard) as yet due to a couple of leaks requiring repair. Any thoughts helpful. Thanks, David, Ceilidh II   
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sailr4

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Probably not what you what to hear, but might save you some time and agrivation. I tried for over a week with oils, heat, BFH's and had no luck.  I ended up cutting coupler off of shaft with angle grinder.  Ordered new coupler and was done.  Good Luck.
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Rob Fowler,1989 C34 #889 Tall/Wing, M25XP - No Worries, Coronado, CA

I'd rather be in a boat with a drink on the rocks, than in the drink with a boat on the rocks.

Bill Shreeves

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I didn't have any luck getting mine off of what I assumed was the original bronze shaft and likely original coupling a couple of years ago.  I even made a "puller" out of 5" square 3/8" thick mild steel plate I got from HomeDepot that I bolted to the coupling and used a hardened bolt/nut to press on the end of the shaft after lubing and heating etc.  It bent the plate and coupling never budged.  So, I decided to replace the the whole deal while I was doing the tranny and cutlass.

Knowing you got some movement, maybe a plate similar to what I made and freeze-off or a little dry ice on to get the coupling to shrink?
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The only thing that always works on an old boat is the owner...

Bill Shreeves
s/v "Begnnings" 1987 Shoal Draft #333
M25XPB, Worton Creek, MD

Jim Fitch

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Hi David -

I finally got my 1990 flange off the original shaft last weekend after fighting with it on and off for a couple of weeks.  I tried using a standard puller and managed to budge it maybe an 1/8" and then it just seemed to jamb up completely.  I ended up ordering the Buck Algonquin 5 inch puller 50MCP00500.  I had a breaker bar on the center of the puller in the bilge and would crank on the shaft using the propeller.  That didn't solve the problem by itself.  I tried heating the flange a few times with the MAP gas torch, protecting everything around it with aluminum baking tins but that didn't work.  I had soaked it for days with BP Blaster including filling the set screw holes, that didn't work.

I had actually given up but said to my son, "let's try one more time" and he cranked on the prop while I hit the flange with a hammer.  As I hit it it would drive the shaft forward so he'd pull it back and I'd whack it again while he cranked and we finally got the flange moving again.  After a couple of turns I went back to the prop and we helped each other keep it turning.  It must have been halfway off before it wasn't a major struggle to turn the shaft.  It was a very satisfying sound when we finally heard the flange drop off the shaft inside the boat.

I'm not sure what combination of the things we did actually worked or if it really took all of them together but nothing was moving until I started whacking away with the hammer while he cranked on the prop.

At no point in time did we put any pressure or even touch the flange on the transmission to to this.  I actually raised the engine up a bit to get it out of the way.

When this was done we pulled the cutlass bearing which allowed us to pull the shaft out of the boat to the side of the rudder.  I had hoped we could keep the original bronze shaft.  I was going to take it to have it checked for straightness but once it was out I could see irregularities where the cutlass bearing was and it had a significant groove where the stuffing box made contact and it had been eating cutlass bearings faster than it used to.  The bottom line is I could have just cut the shaft and saved a bunch of time and energy since I ended up replacing the shaft anyway.  A new shaft was not in the budget but I didn't feel like I had a choice.  I just picked up my new stainless shaft today.

Good luck,

Jim
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Bill Shreeves

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Jim,
Did you have the new coupling mated to the new shaft?  If I hadn't gone with a flexible coupling, which I did have mated to my new shaft, I would've gone with a split coupling to avoid the hassles of removing it in the future

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The only thing that always works on an old boat is the owner...

Bill Shreeves
s/v "Begnnings" 1987 Shoal Draft #333
M25XPB, Worton Creek, MD

Jim Fitch

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Hi Bill -

Yes, the new coupling was bored for a light press fit, the coupling was faced, the shaft dimpled for the set screws and the shaft was checked afterwards again for straightness.  I had the prop reconditioned as well, although it needed only minor adjustment.  So all the right stuff was done.

Jim
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oldcatsailor

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I used long bolts threw the flanges and a socket on the shaft and tightened the shaft was reluctant but did move , upped the length of the socket.fiirst i soaked everything with on blaster and sanded the shaft behind flange.1990   mk1.5 p.s. Is ranked the bolts sprayed and left , also tapped lightly with small hammer .
Good luck
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Sail 1064 Tr wing keel 1990/

Bill Shreeves

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Hi Bill -

Yes, the new coupling was bored for a light press fit, the coupling was faced, the shaft dimpled for the set screws and the shaft was checked afterwards again for straightness.  I had the prop reconditioned as well, although it needed only minor adjustment.  So all the right stuff was done.

Jim

NICE!
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The only thing that always works on an old boat is the owner...

Bill Shreeves
s/v "Begnnings" 1987 Shoal Draft #333
M25XPB, Worton Creek, MD

kh3412

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 :thumb:
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1987 mk1 a work in progress #618
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