Rebed Hatch Lens

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Hello all,

I need to rebed a hatch lens (the Bomar hatch above the saloon). What do you all recommend for adhesive sealant? I believe the hatch is aluminum and the lens is acrylic. Any input would be appreciated!
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#212

Jon W

Dow 795 is an adhesive silicone sealant often recommended for this, and for bonding the fixed portlights along the sides of the cabin top in the salon. A website Sealant Engineering sells a 10.3 ounce tube for ~$6.90 each.
Jon W.
s/v Della Jean
Hull #493, 1987 MK 1, M25XP, 35# Mantus, Std Rig
San Diego, Ca

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Thank you Jon, I will pick up some of this and give it a go! :thumb:
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#212

Jon W

To avoid confusion, you're talking about resealing the acrylic to the aluminum frame. You're not talking about resealing the aluminum frame to the cabin top. Right?
Jon W.
s/v Della Jean
Hull #493, 1987 MK 1, M25XP, 35# Mantus, Std Rig
San Diego, Ca

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Yes, there is a leak in between the aluminum frame and the acrylic lens.
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#212

Stu Jackson

Switchback, I had a small leak.  I cured it with Captain Tolley's Creeping Crack Cure.  You may want to consider trying that before taking it all apart if it's just a small leak.  Good luck.
Stu Jackson, C34 IA Secretary, #224 1986, "Aquavite"  Cowichan Bay, BC  Maple Bay Marina  SR/FK, M25, Rocna 10 (22#) (NZ model)

"There is no problem so great that it can't be solved."

Ron Hill

#6
Switch : How about giving us your hull #. 

I suspect that you may have a Bomar hatch that is prone to lens leaking - because the adjusting arm is attached to the lens rather than the frame!!  So every time the hatch is opened there is stress put on that lens where the adjusting arm attaches and it's transmits the stress to that lens corner where the lens is sealed to the top hatch framing!!
I replaced the entire hatch and would recommend changing to a Lewmar hatch that has a hinge friction adjustment, rather than an arm!

A thought
Ron, Apache #788

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Hi Ron,

Hull # is 212, thanks!
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#212

DaveBMusik

#8
I'm #206 and my hatch was cast aluminum. I was going to replace it until I found out how much they were $$$$. Stu had done a nice write-up on refinishing his and I followed suit. After removing the existing lense, cleaning and refinishing the frame and hatch, I took it to a local glass place and had them put in new plastic. If I were to do it again, I could probably have done a better job with the sealant using Dow 795 but it didn't cost much. Bedded it with a couple layers of butyl tape and came out beautiful.
Dave Burgess
Water Music
1986 C34 Hull #206, Fin Keel
Yanmar 3YM30
Noank, CT

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#212