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Author Topic: 2002 Mk II Hatch  (Read 476 times)

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Dale Stone

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Re: 2002 Mk II Hatch
« Reply #15 on: February 11, 2019, 07:52:52 AM »

Hi Robert
Let us know how that goes, I was thinking digging it out would be a first good attempt.
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Dale Stone 2001 C34 II, Hull #1526, Salem Ma

hwd

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Re: 2002 Mk II Hatch
« Reply #16 on: February 13, 2019, 12:33:02 PM »

Robert,
Thanks for the update - I'm still interested to learn how extensive your damage is, and how you decide to fix it.
Harry
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Robert Mann

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Re: 2002 Mk II Hatch
« Reply #17 on: February 16, 2019, 02:57:03 PM »

Today I removed the rotted core.  The affected area was wedge shaped from the front left corner of the hatch heading towards the port bow, it extended approximately 11".
 
The first photo shows the extent of the rotten area around the hatch and the use of a heat gun to dry it out. 
The second photo shows the pile of crap I pulled out.
The third photo shows the weapons of mass destruction, a kebab skewer and the longest sawzall blade I could find, in a handle
The last shot shows the trim ring and how the water pooled in the rim.

On looking at the damage I believe it had been leaking for a long time, either under the hatch or down the screws which showed no signs of sealant, remember the hatch is sealed with Butyl tape.  The water soaked the core and when it final got so wet it filled the rim of the trim ring and ran over the edge.

Next step, after further drying out, West 105, 206 and 406 filler and pump it in with a caulking tube, I think.  Then re-seal the hatch, after potting the screw holes, I am not doing this again!

« Last Edit: February 16, 2019, 02:59:23 PM by Robert Mann »
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Catalina 34 MkII, Indigostar, 2002 no 1622

KWKloeber

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Re: 2002 Mk II Hatch
« Reply #18 on: Yesterday at 06:18:55 PM »

Robert

I did a similar core damage repair.  Suggest you use poly tubing to extend the tip of the caulking tube to get unthickened resin deep into the void, or use a long (artist's) brush to thoroughly saturate/wet out all edges of the void before pumping in the mix.
I used to nearly always use 406 but once I tried 403, I universally use that for everything.  It has better adhesive properties, and is nearly as strong in compression as 406 (the repair isn't that large.)  It wets out SO MUCH easier than trying to mix in 406 (which I equate to trying to mix dandelion wisps into peanut butter.)  Microfibers mixes in so much more easily and quickly.

How deep does it go in the corner? Could you cut a wedge of marine plywood, butter it up and slip it into place?  Or alternately roll up a bunch of pieces of wetted-out fiberglass cloth or mat, and poke them into the hole using a dowel the height of the void?
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Twenty years from now you'll be more disappointed by the things you didn't do, than by the ones you did.
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Robert Mann

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Re: 2002 Mk II Hatch
« Reply #19 on: Yesterday at 10:15:18 PM »

Thanks Ken, the deepest point of the vee is about 10". I really can't tell the shape of the cavity accurately,  so putting wood in might leave a potential void.  I think adding unthickened resin first is a great idea to shore up the core, followed by a mix. I will take a look at 403.  I was debating between 406 and micro balloons, or a mix of both.  Colloidal silica and micro balloons was the mix recommendation from Fibreglass Coatings.
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Catalina 34 MkII, Indigostar, 2002 no 1622

Breakin Away

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Re: 2002 Mk II Hatch
« Reply #20 on: Today at 06:48:24 AM »

I did a similar, but much smaller, repair around a chainplate on my C250. I taped the bottom and filled the core from the top. Even for a small repair, I was concerned about overheating from the exotherm, so I decided to do it in a few thinner layers, waiting for the exotherm to kick off before doing the next layer. However, this led to concerns over amine blush, which would interfere with adhesion between the layers. Normal procedure is to grind and clean the amine blush between layers, but this is impossible inside the fiberglass sandwich, which required a blush-free epoxy chemistry. From prior work that I had done using West Systems epoxy, I knew that they have very severe, slick, slippery blush as part of their chemistry.

With that said, I'm just wondering what you guys think about these guys as an epoxy supplier. They're the guys that I used:

https://www.epoxyusa.com/category_s/3.htm
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2001 MkII Breakin' Away, #1535, TR/WK, M35BC, Mantus 35# (at Rock Hall Landing Marina)
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