Move Fuel Shut Off

[Noah]

A story- Even with my "protected panel", a month or so ago, while under sail, an errant foot or sliding cockpit seat cushion resulted in my ignition key being broken off flush with the switch. This I noticed when going to start the engine for docking. Granted, I had an unheeded warning, months ago when key #1 of the 2 cheap keys that came with the retro switch bent and became worthless on a previous outing. I replaced that key with a stronger one, that was tough to source, but found at a local Ace hardware store. Unfortunately, that spare one was in the chart table not the ignition when key 2 broke off. After a bit of "what now" panic, I managed to push in the broken key stub into the ignition with the broken piece still in the switch and turned with friction against it and managed to start the engine. The next day I after trying a bunch of picking tools to no avail, I suceeded in removing the key stub by epoxing the broken piece to it and gently exacted the stuck end nub of key. I learned my lesson and now remove the key after shutting off engine while under sail.

[Bill Shreeves]

Noah - Your story gives me one reason to appreciate my panel that currently has the key very well protected.  I think the fairly thin chain would snap before the key broke if the float was pulled too hard

[Noah]

Bill-  however, I would be worried about your toggle switch hanging out there.

[Bill Shreeves]

Bill-  however, I would be worried about your toggle switch hanging out there.

Absolutely right about that one.   It's for the blower and it busted early last season. It'll work if i jiggle it enough and needs replacement this off-season.  Whoever located the items on the board gave no thought to it.  I'll refrain from sharing my usual exclamation when something gets caught on the toggle or the "T" handle.  I definitely need to change it.

Of course, this brings to mind another question.  I still consider myself a newbie or greenhorn knowing I only have 3 seasons under my belt.   So, how many of you actually use the blower after refueling?

-Thanks

[KWKloeber]

Bill

I'm not trying to bias your thought waves, just passing fact based info.  Since you got into the weeds a little, a failure was also one of my concerns.  That said, with the 2nd type, the stop lever is still open and operational (without a pliers.)  In my case, the lever is VERY accessible thru the side engine door.  I believe that type to be "free-floating" -- that is to mean that there's no heavy return spring to zero, so if the coil failed I could still flip the stop lever.  I will corroborate that w/ a dealer before (IF I decide to) installing it.

Noah:  I introduced one of my keys to my bench grinder and gave it a haircut so that it doesn't protrude past the plexiglas cover.

[KWKloeber]

Bill

If you are defo pursuing recessing, here's some more info,

Wb has (had?) a recessed version, below - maybe that will give you an idea.



Below are pix from a panel refurb on a CS36; you can see how CS handled the recess (in the end of the stbd seat) for the Wb panel. 
I could foresee you foreseeing strips of G10, epoxied behind the coming to form a recessed lip around the hole, to mount your Wb panel onto -- the G10 and exposed edge of the coming could be gel-coated or painted. 

If the (whole) hole is excessively large, it might need a solid panel across the back (G10? aluminum?) to mount your panel thru.

[Noah]

Bill- maybe overkill but I use the blower when motoring most of the time. Keeps air space and cabin cooler and moves some air. Doesn't cost anything.

Ken- good thought on cutting key head. The new keys I had made at Ace are much thicker/stronger than the ones that came with my CD replacement switch (which may be a knock-off Cole Hersey or Sea Dog(?) can't remember if it was branded. I just remove and pocket the key now.

[KWKloeber]

I just remove and pocket the key now.

I used to, but the concern is anticipating a Murphy visit.
If I go overboard I want it to be right there in the panel not in my pocket on a float
The deheaded key is adding one more little drip into my safety bucket.

Jus sayin'



The J/120 I am sometimes on has a plexi with a hole large enough to stuff in the key/float, or in the shower door right underneath (plexi broken on this sister pic.) Neat/clean.
(something Bill could build in!)

[Noah]

My or my crew's back-up is a second key in the chart table.

[Stu Jackson]

We replaced the mini-chain between the key and the float with a small thin line, almost like flag halyard line.  Those mini-chains belong nowhere near a boat; other examples are the fuel, water and waste deck caps.  We take the key out when the engine stops and use the line to hang the key on the kill switch handle, it's right there.

From my 2017 Tech Note on replacing the key switch:

I went to the hardware store and got two additional replacement keys. Based on reports from other skippers and our own experiences, we've found the brass keys tend to get bent due to their location in the panel, so I got replacement keys made while the new ones were still straight. The replacement keys are silver, similar to our companionway and locker locks, so I painted them for identification.

[Noah]