Fuel Tank Replacement - Plastic?

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Patches

I had the exact same shipping experience from Ezell.  My tank arrived yesterday in a very poorly packaged shipping box-- consisting of two overlapping Walmart boxes taped together.  Like your tank, my mounting flange was damaged and can't be mounted on the tank shelf.  There is also a large scratch on the bottom corner where the box blew apart, and a ding in an upper corner where it hit something hard en route.

After receipt, I called them immediately but they were already closed for the day. I then sent an email asking to be contacted Monday.  When ordering the tank, Ezell was easy to work with and the turnaround was pretty quick.

I'll let you know how things go concerning the damaged tank.  It cost $110 to ship the tank UPS ground (I live in the PNW), and I'm not inclined to bear the cost to return the tank for repairs.

Patches

Bill Shreeves

Sorry for the unfortunate shipping experiences.   I had mine built and shipped from Ezell via freight last Fall and it was undamaged.
The only thing that always works on an old boat is the owner...

Bill Shreeves
s/v "Begnnings" 1987 Shoal Draft #333
M25XPB, Worton Creek, MD

pablosgirl

We replaced our fuel tank 5 years ago with one fabricated at a local machine/welding shop.  At the time CD wanted $540 + shipping and a 3-4 week build/ delivery time.  I was concerned about shipping damage and that swayed me to use the local shop.  The new tank was $600 and I had it in a week.  I took the shop the old tank and they made an EXACT copy but with thicker walls and a working sending unit!  It came with an additional inspection port.  It lined up perfectly with all the mounting holes from the old tank.

My point is that there are plenty of high quality welders / shops out there.  And you avoid the shipping Samsonite gorillas that can destroy a quality tank on its way to you.   Just need to do your homework on who to go with.  Ask around in your boating community.  The shop I used has built a reputation for building quality marine fuel tanks and I found that out by asking the local boaters and fishermen.

Paul
Paul & Cyndi Shields
1988 hull# 551 Tall Rig/Fin Keel
M25XP

Noah

Issues with damage to my new tank as a result of packaging/shipping, resolved successfully! Ezell agreed to absorb any costs involved in shipping, repairing or replacing the tank. Meanwhile, I took the tank to a my favorite local marine welding/machine shop who realinged the bent hold down foot and inspected the tank—pronouncing it "excellent quality and 100% good to go." And, my local shop did repair and testing for FREE! All's well that ends well. I will install new fuel tank this weekend, once I complete replacing the sound insulation in my engine compartment and detailing the engine. One project ALWAYS leads to another. 8)
1990 hull #1014, San Diego, CA,  Fin Keel,
Standard Rig

Stu Jackson

Quote from: Noah on February 27, 2019, 05:17:54 PM>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
I will install new fuel tank this weekend>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

Great to hear you resolved the issue.

Many folks would be interested particularly about how you dealt with the vent and fill hoses when you put the new tank in.

Good luck, minimal skinned knuckles and all.  :D
Stu Jackson, C34 IA Secretary, #224 1986, "Aquavite"  Cowichan Bay, BC  Maple Bay Marina  SR/FK, M25, Rocna 10 (22#) (NZ model)

"There is no problem so great that it can't be solved."

Ron Hill

#20
Noah : Look in the Mainsheet tech notes at my article on changing out the insulation in the engine compartment. 

I got my new insulation from Defender, used the old stuff as kind of a pattern (did some remeasuring) and it was best cut on a band saw.  My engine was removed, so it was easy to install.

A few thoughts
Ron, Apache #788

Noah

Thx Ron, I read it. I too am using Soundown, but only 1 in. Thick —as it is very narrow/tight with engine in place. Have all pieces patterned and cut—including some misc. such as a hole in stair/back to clear the flywheel, etc. and all dry fit in place!  Once engine is dry (from degreaser/water/touch-up paint) I will install insulation, using spray glue (where possible) and some screws with fender washers. Unfortunately, while I did NOT make any measuring/cutting errors, I am short of material for engine doors, but may make it using pieced-together scraps. Also needed to buy extra mylar seam/edge tape. Annoying! Sorry to hijack fuel tank thread. I will start/transfer to a new thread with pics when done.
1990 hull #1014, San Diego, CA,  Fin Keel,
Standard Rig

Jon W

Hi Noah, how much does the fuel tank weigh when empty?
Jon W.
s/v Della Jean
Hull #493, 1987 MK 1, M25XP, 35# Mantus, Std Rig
San Diego, Ca

Noah

#23
No more than 30 lbs. just awkward. I carried on and off myself but was tricky going down ladder, so luckly got helpful dock bystander for assistance.
1990 hull #1014, San Diego, CA,  Fin Keel,
Standard Rig

Patches

I've been trying to resolve my damaged tank issue with Ezell as well.  [Side Note:  my hull no. is 1016, and just two hulls later than Noah's, so the fuel tanks appear to have failed just about the same time.]

Anyway, I concur that the packaging from Ezell was not adequate, and exactly the same as what was described by Noah in his initial post.  I would say that if they continue to package tanks that way, there is a better than 50% chance that the mounting flange will be damaged during shipping.  If you purchase a tank from Ezell, I highly recommend that you ask "how do you protect the tank, taps, and mounting tab when packaging for shipment?" 

Don't get me wrong, Ezell's are very nice folks, and make excellent tanks. You will just be in the position of having to straighten out the bent mounting flange before mounting the tank, and the tanks may sustain some additional scratches. They told me yesterday that all I needed to do was take a hammer and "tap" the bent corners on the mounting flange back into position.  This made it clear to me what the fix would be if I returned the tank, and that is not worth three weeks of my time to have them do it--which they estimated would take "less than a minute."  Plus, the box it came in was in such poor condition it could not be re-used.  Annoying.

Anyway, I plan to give it a go with a hammer, and then put 1/4" neoprene strips, 2" wide and spaced every 2", on the bottom with 5200 to keep the tank from sitting directly on the shelf to prevent future pinhole corrosion.  This method is well explained elsewhere on the inter web.

I also want to note that the vent on the Ezell tank appears to be positioned slightly further forward on the tank, which may require a longer vent hose to the fitting on the transom.

Patches 


Paulus

Noah,  In your 5th pic you have a interesting end on your larger hose.  Could you give some more info on this end.  Looks nice and neat.
Take care,
Paul
Cool Change 1989 #944

Noah

Paul- I assume you are referring to the nylon strainer fitting that is on the pick-up end of my manual bilge pump hose? It was that way when I purchase the boat. Sorry, I don't know the source/brand. I will take a photo of it flipped over when I am at the boat in the next couple days and post/or PM you.
1990 hull #1014, San Diego, CA,  Fin Keel,
Standard Rig

Paulus

Noah, Thanks.  Would appreciate a pic.
Paul
Cool Change 1989 #944

Ron Hill

Paulus : You can also use a piece of nylon window screen - held in place (screen over the hose opening) with a wire tie!! 

A thought
Ron, Apache #788

Bill Shreeves

Quote from: Patches on March 01, 2019, 09:25:16 AM


I also want to note that the vent on the Ezell tank appears to be positioned slightly further forward on the tank, which may require a longer vent hose to the fitting on the transom.

Patches

I replaced all the lines associated with the fuel when I replaced my tank with the Ezell.  Yes, it took a longer vent hose.  I think the fill was a little longer too.
The only thing that always works on an old boat is the owner...

Bill Shreeves
s/v "Begnnings" 1987 Shoal Draft #333
M25XPB, Worton Creek, MD