Transmission replacement

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kh3412

Update on the work. Cleaned the engine compartment, Glassed the area that was cut for clearance of the relocated shifter. Started Insulating engine compartment with 1" insulation. Removed the small pieces of wood that hold the steps and added some epoxy behind to help tighten up them up. Had to stop the insulation due to the wood on the port side being rotted. So waiting for some teak to arrive. Made a bracket for the shift cable and will get it to the boat to make sure it will fit.
Has anybody replaced their strut, and have any hints? Thinking i should consider this as it is looking rather poor.   
1987 mk1 a work in progress #618

Jon W

If you're asking about the prop strut, Noah recently replaced his.
Jon W.
s/v Della Jean
Hull #493, 1987 MK 1, M25XP, 35# Mantus, Std Rig
San Diego, Ca

kh3412

1987 mk1 a work in progress #618

Noah

#18
Yep, I (with boatyard experts) did it in Oct. Not a project to be taken lightly. I would avoid it unless absolutely warranted.  Big/expensive; grinding, cutting, fiberglassing job. PM or email me and we can discuss details. "Someday" I will do a tech wiki write-up with pics.
1990 hull #1014, San Diego, CA,  Fin Keel,
Standard Rig

kh3412

1987 mk1 a work in progress #618

Breakin Away

Thanks for posting these pics! Your timing is perfect. I sent a link to my boatyard to see an example of how it's done with the Catalina strut.

2001 MkII Breakin' Away, #1535, TR/WK, M35BC, Mantus 35# (at Rock Hall Landing Marina)

Noah

PM or email me if you need more info/pics/video/etc. Good luck. There also also a factory spec. pdf doc. sheet/install drawing instructions on the CD website, I believe. BTW- mine was installed with micro balloons and vinyl ester resin. Not epoxy resin.
-Noah
1990 hull #1014, San Diego, CA,  Fin Keel,
Standard Rig

Breakin Away

PM on the way.

I also sent my boatyard a link to the CatalinaDirect website, and mentioned the downloadable instructions that are contained there. I'll forward any other info that you have as well. Thanks!

2001 MkII Breakin' Away, #1535, TR/WK, M35BC, Mantus 35# (at Rock Hall Landing Marina)

KWKloeber

Noah

Really nice work. Are you really positive about the adoption thing?  It's only a 30-footer after all.
Twenty years from now you'll be more disappointed by the things you didn't do, than by the ones you did.
So throw off the bowlines.  Sail away from the safe harbor.  Catch the tradewinds in your sails.
Explore.  Dream.  Discover.   -Mark Twain

Roc

Noah
How were they sure the strut installation was aligned perfectly, and not skewed?  Boat's on the hard and the hull is flexed.  Just curious.
Roc - "Sea Life" 2000 MKII #1477.  Annapolis, MD

Noah

Measure, eyeball, align centered so shaft is centered in stern tube. Then fingers crossed. My hull was not deformed. Had to slightly adjust/lower front motor mounts when all said and done but it was almost 100% spot on.
1990 hull #1014, San Diego, CA,  Fin Keel,
Standard Rig

Stu Jackson

Quote from: Roc on April 18, 2019, 10:02:03 AM
Noah
How were they sure the strut installation was aligned perfectly, and not skewed?  Boat's on the hard and the hull is flexed.  Just curious.

A not unreasonable expectation.

However, it appears to me that the folks who do this work for as living would know a lot better than us average DIY-ers just how to do so. 

The strut is in very close proximity to the stern tube, so hull flex could well be "similar" in that particular area.  Certainly close enough to not have a material effect on lining the two up properly.  And the strut is made specifically for this boat.

We must also remember that there are tolerances and clearances for these alignments, even between the strut, the cutlass bearing and stern tube.

Probably just a longer-winded way of saying what Noah did!  :D
Stu Jackson, C34 IA Secretary, #224 1986, "Aquavite"  Cowichan Bay, BC  Maple Bay Marina  SR/FK, M25, Rocna 10 (22#) (NZ model)

"There is no problem so great that it can't be solved."

kh3412

Little update :(
Decided to replace my strut, it was getting very thin on the bottom and pitting very much, but the deciding factor was a small drip coming down it.
As you know there is a small bilge under the rear water tank that has no way to drain. This area is right behind the area that the strut is mounted.
since I was on the fence as to replacing the strut this pushed me over. I had to find this leak incase it was something serious. I cut out the strut and
removed the filler against hull in front of this rear bilge on the outside and water would seep out of that area. Did not see any missing or broken
fiberglass, in fact the gel coat is still there in most places. From inside with the sun out the area looks a little thin in the layup as the area was letting
a lot of light through. the repair I am thinking would be lay up additional glass in the bilge and then fill it up with epoxy foam then glass over the whole area to prevent
water from sitting there.So since I have just received a new rear water tank thanks to this board's for sale area I started the take the tank out.
You need to remove the fuel tank panel before taking the water tank panel off and surprise guess what's starting to leak. The fuel tank is wet at the rear bottom :cry4`
Well just add it to the list  Still love my boat
First pic: strut wear
Second pic: glass and filler removed
Third pic: strut bed
Fourth pic:Water in rear most bilge with water tank removed
1987 mk1 a work in progress #618

Jon W

Regarding your aft tank leak, is the tank leaking or is the fill hose leaking?
Jon W.
s/v Della Jean
Hull #493, 1987 MK 1, M25XP, 35# Mantus, Std Rig
San Diego, Ca

kh3412

Jon to be honest I don't know. Filled it last year for first time and rear berth was full of water. Saw a tank in the "for sale area" and grabbed it. Was one of those projects you get to someday.
1987 mk1 a work in progress #618