Furling line blocks and fairleads suggestions?

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Joyride

Hey gang I upgraded the furler this year to a Hood 808 SL and it's awesome compared to the continuous line furler that was on the boat before.  I've been using the double sheave from the continuous setup and it works, just not well. 

I'm planning to get new blocks but can't decide whether to go outside or inside with sheaves or fairleads or a ratchet block at the end.  Does anybody have a good setup that they can share?  I want to route on the starboard side and furl from the helm.

Thanks!

1991 Catalina 34 (mk 1.5) Universal M35 Wing Keel

Stu Jackson

I have a small block on the pulpit, led to Johnson bullseye fairleads on the outside of the stanchions, to a small non-ratcheting Ronstan block at the base of the pushpit, tied off to a pushpit mounted cleat.  Outside is clearer, sheaves aren't needed, I'd thought about a ratcheting block but after twenty years still haven't put one on.  My largest headsail is a 110 on a ProFurl LCI32.  I sailed 18 years on SF Bay with this system before we moved here in 2016.
Stu Jackson, C34 IA Secretary, #224 1986, "Aquavite"  Cowichan Bay, BC  Maple Bay Marina  SR/FK, M25, Rocna 10 (22#) (NZ model)

"There is no problem so great that it can't be solved."

Ron Hill

#2
Joy : I made the same change many years ago.  Wrote an article about the Hood 808 in the Mainsheet tech notes.

I ran the 3/8" furling line from the open drum, to the base of the bow pulpit swivel block, thur "around stanchion blocks" that keep the line on the outside of the stanchions, then into the cockpit. 
I have a small #16 Lewmar winch aft of the #46 primary winch that that furling line went into.

A few thoughts   
Ron, Apache #788

MarcZ


I have installed a ratcheting block with cams on my furling line and I'm really happy with this setup.

Nautos part # 92076
93 C34 Mk 1.5 #1258 TR WK M35
Upper Chesapeake

Analgesic

I installed the same set up as MarcZ several years ago using a Garhauer product and I think it is one of the best upgrades I have made.  It allows rapid reefing in adverse conditions with minimal stress.
Brian McPhillips
Brian McPhillips  1988 #584  M25XP

Roc

When I unfurl the sail, I keep tension on the furling line so it winds up on the drum tightly.  Wouldn't the cam cleat on the block make that difficult because by keeping tension on the line cause it to engage in the cam?  I see how it will help in furling (and reefing), but going the other way seems difficult.
Roc - "Sea Life" 2000 MKII #1477.  Annapolis, MD

MarcZ


Engaging cam requires "down" force (angle) and little tug.
Mainsheet with cam block is commonly seen  on many one design cases.  In that environment unwanted "locks" wouldn't be tolerated for sure ;)

FYI Cam bracket angle is actually adjustable on most of them.

Looking at your signature I realized you can just stop by on the way to Rock Hall for little demonstration.
93 C34 Mk 1.5 #1258 TR WK M35
Upper Chesapeake

Jim Hardesty

#7
This is what I did.  Put a Harken lever lock? block on top of the OEM turning foot block for the jib sheets.   One picture is the starboard side block that's unchanged.  Works like a champ. 

Jim
Jim Hardesty
2001 MKII hull #1570 M35BC  "Shamrock"
sailing Lake Erie
from Commodore Perry Yacht Club
Erie, PA

Roc

#8
I like the lever lock. Garhauer actually has that option and will fit the same OEM holes.  I've always thought of adding one ON TOP of the already sheet turning block, so the furling line can pass through the one with the lever lock.  You just would need to use longer bolts through the same holes in the deck.  About the cam cleat.  I know that a down force is needed to lock the line in the cams.  But if you're adding tension to that line, while pulling the jib sheets, you can accidentally lock the line into the cams.  I've seen people put rope clutches for the furling line to hold it. 
Roc - "Sea Life" 2000 MKII #1477.  Annapolis, MD

Jim Hardesty

QuoteGarhauer actually has that option and will fit the same OEM holes

Wish I'd known that.  Would have saved me some work.  IMHO think it's the way to go.
Jim
Jim Hardesty
2001 MKII hull #1570 M35BC  "Shamrock"
sailing Lake Erie
from Commodore Perry Yacht Club
Erie, PA

MarcZ

#10
That type of jammer has superior holding power when compared to cam block and it looks "cleaner" too  8)
For me downside of that solution was that either variant of a jammer block (spring-loaded or not) still requires foot and hand or both hands to operate in controlled fashion .
93 C34 Mk 1.5 #1258 TR WK M35
Upper Chesapeake

Indian Falls

Joyride so where is the old furler?  I'm not ready to part with mine... would be interested in parts from it.
Thanks!
Dan & Dar
s/v Resolution, 1990 C34 997
We have enough youth: how about a fountain of "smart"?

Dale Stone

Jim, Roc,
Really like your lever lock. I looked on the Garhauer website and didn't find the lever or the option for the OEM holes.
Dale Stone 2001 C34 II, Hull #1526, Salem Ma

Roc

#13
Looks like they updated their website. It's the foot block with clutch

https://www.garhauermarine.com/deck-blocks-hardware/foot-blocks-with-clutch.html


Roc - "Sea Life" 2000 MKII #1477.  Annapolis, MD

Jim Hardesty

Don't know if the Garhauser would work like the Harken.  I can pull the line with both hands then move the line back against the lever jaws and the line will lock when eased.  Is the Garhauser left and right hand.  Just questions to ask, the Garhauser still probably the way to go.
Jim
Jim Hardesty
2001 MKII hull #1570 M35BC  "Shamrock"
sailing Lake Erie
from Commodore Perry Yacht Club
Erie, PA