Head Obstruction, Clog...?

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Wobegon

As I was getting ready to leave the boat this past weekend, I went to use the head and found it was not fully operational.  :cry4`   It would not pump water from the lake to rinse the head.  It would take the waste from the bowl to the holding tank without any problem.  I checked the thru-hull and it was not obstructed...thus, I am making the assumption there is a clog or some sort of obstruction between the thru-hull and the bowl.  Does anyone have any advice on where/how to check the line to see if there is an obstruction...or has something else failed in the system that I need to check out.  Thanks!

n624ma

Sounds like the "wet/dry" valve isn't working. What kind of head is it and how old?
I'd try disconnecting the raw water hose at the head and checking for flow there, if you have water there it sounds like it's time to open up the "wet/dry" valve body on the head and see what's going on.
Joseph Rheubeck

Wobegon

The head is a Jabsco and is about 2 years old.

Ron Hill

Wo :  I'd first try to disconnect the intake hose from the pump (do this with the thru hull turned OFF).  Then open that thru hull and see if intake water flows - it should as the hose is lower than the water line.

If you get no flow then the intake line is clogged.  Take your dink pump and try to "blow out" the intake line with the thru hull open.  If this doesn't fix the intake water flow - then as mentioned there is a problem with the "WET bowl/DRY bowl lever/gasket.  a thought
Ron, Apache #788

Len

Wobegon,

I would like to take a stab at it...turn the water intake off and check the rectangular gasket under the pump handle. I had the same problem and one of the flaps had broken off stopping the pump. I believe it's called a top valve gasket. (There are two bronze weights on this gasket.) Good Luck!

Len

Peggie Hall

#5
Len's guess is a pretty good one:  failed flapper valve (top valve gasket). See the trouble-shooting guide in the manual for it here  http://www.ittflowcontrol.com//files/29090_29120_toilets_0406_data_sheet.pdf

If that's not it, the wet/dry cam assembly (part #23) has failed--a VERY common problem in Jabsco toilets. Call Jabsco for a replacement...they SHOULD send you one no charge.

Do NOT spend the money for a "service kit"...the price is about 80% the price of a whole new pump (which should tell you what the pump is worth). Buy the top valve gasket only...or better yet, replace the toilet with one that provides more than just a year or two of reliable trouble-free service.  Last time I checked Defender had the complete PH II on sale for $199....which is a DEAL for a toilet that has a $500 list price!  Keep it lubricated, rebuild every 5-6 years ($50 for the kit)...it'll last you at least 20 years.

url'ed the link
Peggie Hall
Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987
Author "The NEW Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor"
http://www.amazon.com/New-Get-Rid-Boat-Odors/dp/1892399784/

Lance Jones

Don't hesitate to call Jabsco. They sent me a complete replacement pump.
Lance Jones
1988  C-34 Kitty's Cat
S/N 622

Wobegon

I am glad to report to everyone that it was simply a very large blob of grass that had been sucked up in the intake hose to the head.  Simple fix of about 90 seconds and I was flushing happily again.  I put a screen over the intake to the engine last spring, it looks like I need one for the head as well.  Thank you to everyone for you input.

Stu Jackson

Stu Jackson, C34 IA Secretary, #224 1986, "Aquavite"  Cowichan Bay, BC  Maple Bay Marina  SR/FK, M25, Rocna 10 (22#) (NZ model)

"There is no problem so great that it can't be solved."

Ron Hill

#9
Wo : I believe that it's an anomaly that you picked up grass in the intake thru hull to the head.  Personally I'd leave the strainer off of that thru hull and blow it back with the dink airpump if it ever happens again. 
I've clogged the engine intake, but never the head intake in 24 years.  Even when we lived on the boat for 8 months. 
I'm sure that others will tell you differently, but it's easy to clear that line with a dink pump.

The pictures that Mainsail posted are all the other reasons to paint the inside of the strainer with bottom paint, always make sure that the guys that painted the bottom didn't fill up the holes in the strainer and as a last resort - that the strainer is lightly caulked in place.  
That way you can always take a wooden dowel and poke off the strainer in an emergency from the inside and NOT have to get into the water.  A few thoughts
Ron, Apache #788

Peggie Hall

It's actually not at all unusual for boats in relatively shallow warmer waters that are teeming wth animal and vegetable sea life to pull some of it into the head intake...and a strainer in the intake line is solution.  Otheriwise it can end up in the pump and the channel in the rim of the bow...and you haven't lived till you've cleaned the decomposing remains of a baby octupus out of the toilet and plumbing in 90 degree weather!  In fact, Raritan makes a 3/4" strainer for the head intake line. It's an inline strainer, not one that goes on a thru-hull...and it should be installed near the thru-hull, but above the waterline so it can be cleaned out without the need to close any seaocks.

If you've teed the intake into the head sink drain line, the strainer should go in the head intake line, not in the drain line.
Peggie Hall
Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987
Author "The NEW Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor"
http://www.amazon.com/New-Get-Rid-Boat-Odors/dp/1892399784/

Ralph Masters

Stu,
Those photos from Mainsail are very good, thanks for the posting.  I have open se cocks and my diver uses a bottlle brush to clean them monthly.  Here in San Diego we don't have heavy growth or musscles to worry about but it does get a bit of "grass" going up in there..

Ralph
Ralph Masters
Ciao Bella
San Diego
Hull 367, 1987