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 71 
 on: January 08, 2022, 06:22:14 AM 
Started by robbjd - Last post by Jim Hardesty
Quote
Has anyone attempted to replace thier bilge pump hose? If so, do you recall it's length?
Shamrock is also a MKll.  Has a long run from bilge pump to outlet near the stern starboard.  Think that's the reason for your check valve, after the pump stops all the water in the hose will run back into the bilge.  I would not have one. IMHO Any advantage is out weighted by potential down side.  Because the outlet is far above the water line, on MKll, no antisiphon is needed.
Shamrocks bilge pump generally runs twice a year.  Fall to drain the water from water heater, Spring after shaft packing is adjusted fill bilge to clean and check switch and pump.  Other than that it's the turkey baster and sponge.  Bilge stays mostly dry.
Jim

 72 
 on: January 07, 2022, 09:06:22 PM 
Started by robbjd - Last post by waughoo
The check valve helps keep the bilge water level low.  Without one, the water in the long bilge hose runs back into the bilge.  Some have said that it presents a restriction in the exit hose that could restrict or block the pump's ability to empty the bilge.  I am currently replacing my pump with a 2000 GPH and a ultra safety system senior float switch with high water alarm.

 73 
 on: January 07, 2022, 03:02:18 PM 
Started by robbjd - Last post by Noah
There is some controversy regarding using a check valve on a bilge pump. I wouldnít use one. Instead, make a anti-syphoning loop in the hose by bringing/securing a loop of the hose up higher the the waterline.

 74 
 on: January 07, 2022, 12:26:21 PM 
Started by robbjd - Last post by mark_53
Since the bilge pump is lower than the discharge, the check valve was probably to prevent backflow into the bilge.

 75 
 on: January 07, 2022, 12:06:58 PM 
Started by robbjd - Last post by robbjd
We purchased our boat last summer and I've been slowly going through systems and compiling a list of things I'd like to change. Our current bilge pump is a 1750 gpm Jabsco which had a large, and heavy 3 1/4" check valve installed on the discharge. The discharge hose downstream of the check valve was split and leaking so I removed the check and cut back the hose to solve the leak issue. When I removed the pump and float switch for cleaning I found the wiring to be suspect and the pump motor under the "sealed" housing to be badly corroded. I will replace the pump and wiring but would like opinions on a check valve. It seems to me to be a flow restriction with little benefit. Has anyone attempted to replace thier bilge pump hose? If so, do you recall it's length? What pump capacity is typical on 30'+ boats?
Thanks in advance for comments and answers.
More questions to follow
John

S/V Mystic
1997, C34 MKII, Tall rig, Fin keel
Universal M35-AC
Hull #1344
Sarnia, ON, Canada

 76 
 on: January 06, 2022, 02:41:59 PM 
Started by Holger Dieske - Last post by Ron Hill
Kevin : FYI, The early C34s with a Vberth tank did not have an aft tank!!

Most of us (with aft and starboard tanks) drain the starboard side tank thru usage and then (if necessary) refill the side tank from the aft tank by just opening the aft tank cutoff value.  I find it much easier to always just refill the aft tank. 
I always like to keep the starboard tank full as it helps to off set the port side list. Guess it's up to each C34 owner to decide which "out of balance" they prefer - side to side or front to back!?! 

A few thoughts

 77 
 on: January 06, 2022, 10:19:06 AM 
Started by Steve_in_lex - Last post by Steve_in_lex
Robert/Juno, it sounds like you're onto something.  At any rate, it's only relevant for a future charter.   

In the course of researching this, I looked through the C34 comments and articles and am thiinking that I'll replace our boat's A/B switch with an automatic charging relay.  Several different people, all relatives, use our boat, and we've had people drain the batteries by leaving the switch on Both for a week at the mooring.  Not good for family relations.

Looks like ACR's are pretty idiot-proof.

 78 
 on: January 06, 2022, 07:55:57 AM 
Started by Holger Dieske - Last post by scgunner
Holger,

Put a water hose in the tank fill opening. Fill the tank until it overflows if it's not clogged water will spit out of the vent hole in the stanchion. Otherwise you'll have to clean out the hose and fittings.

Ron,

I can see why Catalina changed that arrangement my boat has an aft tank but I added a tank under the V-berth. When the aft tank is empty the boat is noticeably unbalanced. So I use the aft tank last.

 79 
 on: January 05, 2022, 03:57:55 PM 
Started by LogoFreak - Last post by LogoFreak
I looked online at the Catalina 355, they have changed the anchor locker, essentially done what I was thinking off. Also looks like they donít have an inner liner anymore either so thereís probably a glassed in bulkhead dividing the v-berth and anchor locker. Iím guessing thereís a conduit that drains anchor locker into bilge or thereís a false floor just above the water line.

Iíll modify the lid and mount the winch in the same way, might cut out the liner to enlarge anchor locker as well but probably not until next fall.

 80 
 on: January 05, 2022, 02:26:15 PM 
Started by Holger Dieske - Last post by Ron Hill
Hogler : The starboard water tank (under the starboard salon setee) vents from the top rear of that tank up to a stanchion.  Just lift up the cushion and cutout and you'll find where the vent hose is attached to the rear of the tank.

Guys : FYI, There are early C34s with a forward water tank (under the Vberth)!!

A few thoughts

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