Recent posts
#61
Main Message Board / Re: Overheating question
Last post by Jon W - July 07, 2024, 01:39:21 PMHi Ken. In response to your question about draining and refilling, I just removed my HX. To do that I drained the coolant reservoir, and drained the coolant from the HX. Just shy of a gallon coolant in total, so think the block, coolant pump, and thermostat housing were empty. After replacing the HX, I filled the reservoir, then began pumping as described above. Added more coolant into the reservoir to top off. Put the "radiator" cap on, and started the engine. Ran for about 20 minutes in the slip and temperature stayed in the normal range. I plan to take the boat out and motor around for about an hour next week to put the system under load to verify all is good. Hope that answers your question.
#62
Main Message Board / shurflo 2088 fresh water pump ...
Last post by tomsoyer - July 07, 2024, 01:38:02 PMhello all. My fresh water pump occasionally leaks because the clear part in the picture pops open. When it does this, the freshwater tank slow drains into the bilge.
1. Does anyone know what this part is? I looked online under the model, but can't find anything that looks like this.
2. Has anyone had a similar issue?
1. Does anyone know what this part is? I looked online under the model, but can't find anything that looks like this.
2. Has anyone had a similar issue?
#63
Main Message Board / Re: Overheating question
Last post by Ron Hill - July 07, 2024, 12:13:22 PMGuys : I believe that the way that Jon and I suck the internal coolant thru the water Heater is the best way to get all of the air out after a coolant change.
One other thing that I do is - Every couple of years I add some "Water Pump Lubricant" to the system!!
A thought
One other thing that I do is - Every couple of years I add some "Water Pump Lubricant" to the system!!
A thought
#64
Main Message Board / Re: Overheating question
Last post by Noah - July 07, 2024, 09:20:02 AMKen- the water heaters in the C34 are located under the galley sink just above the floorboards.
#65
Main Message Board / Re: Brown water dripping from ...
Last post by rjabara - July 07, 2024, 06:42:04 AMSame problem on my 1990 1.5. Seems these are all early 90's boats on this "brown water" thread. Mine still comes in when the dodger is up. I don't know where it is coming from but it shows up pooled in my shower drain. It appears to be coming in from behind the head (composting, so not coming from the head).
#66
Main Message Board / Re: Overheating question
Last post by KWKloeber - July 07, 2024, 01:24:20 AMHey Jon/Ron
THANKS! Got it. What threw me was that I was envisioning Ron using the PAR to pump from a jug of 50-50 INTO/through the closed system. That method will work well for the issues on my mk-I -- the WH is high (in the cockpit sail locker) and that's where air in the closed system ends up.
So the PAR procedure sucks coolant from the closed system pump, thru the WH and depends on gravity for coolant to flow from the Exh Manifold, through the Hx, block, and back to the TSTat.
Since Brian's issue was that the airlock was located in the pump, have you ever found that the PAR method won't draw well on a recently drained/filled system because it can't pull from an empty pump? (yes I know that the recommendation is to fill the pump.)
Just asking, do you think that it would be effective to turn the PAR around and suck FROM the Exh Manifold and PUSH it through the WH? That would be using the PAR to push coolant into the pump.
THANKS! Got it. What threw me was that I was envisioning Ron using the PAR to pump from a jug of 50-50 INTO/through the closed system. That method will work well for the issues on my mk-I -- the WH is high (in the cockpit sail locker) and that's where air in the closed system ends up.
So the PAR procedure sucks coolant from the closed system pump, thru the WH and depends on gravity for coolant to flow from the Exh Manifold, through the Hx, block, and back to the TSTat.
Since Brian's issue was that the airlock was located in the pump, have you ever found that the PAR method won't draw well on a recently drained/filled system because it can't pull from an empty pump? (yes I know that the recommendation is to fill the pump.)
Just asking, do you think that it would be effective to turn the PAR around and suck FROM the Exh Manifold and PUSH it through the WH? That would be using the PAR to push coolant into the pump.
#67
Main Message Board / Re: Overheating question
Last post by Ron Hill - July 06, 2024, 08:46:38 AMJon : You are right ON!! I wrote this up in the Mainsheet tech notes many years ago. I've done it for many years.
Ken : All you are doing is pumping a closed loop of internal coolant thru the water heater system to get any air out!!
A thought
Ken : All you are doing is pumping a closed loop of internal coolant thru the water heater system to get any air out!!
A thought
#68
Main Message Board / Re: Overheating question
Last post by Jon W - July 05, 2024, 10:17:46 PMHi Ken, wrote the following knowing folks of varying levels of experience use this forum. Not trying to be a wise guy. Except for the ball valve on the thermostat housing, I learned this method from Ron Hill, so credit goes to him.
The set up is a Par hand pump, and a short piece of (1/2" id I think) clear hose open on one end and reduced down to a hose barb to fit the water heater loop hose connected to the thermostat housing on the other end. Optional is a second short section of clear (1/2"id I think) hose to fit onto the discharge end of the Par hand pump. I found this piece of hose is not really needed.
Remove the coolant reservoir/tank "radiator" pressure cap. This is not the overflow tank.
Disconnect the hose in the water heater loop from the thermostat housing, and plug the hose barb into it. Connect the open end of the clear hose to the suction end of the Par hand pump. Optional add a short section of clear hose to the discharge end of the Par hand pump.
Put the discharge end of the pump into the coolant reservoir/tank (not the overflow tank). Begin hand pumping and you will draw coolant through the system and back into the reservoir/tank. Continue pumping until the stream of fluid into the reservoir/tank is a clear solid color indicating no air in the coolant loop. Reconnect the water heater loop hose to the thermostat housing, being careful not to loose any coolant. Put the "radiator" cap back on.
Start the engine and watch that the temperature stays in normal range. A simple no mess bleed/burp method.
I also replaced the OEM valve on the top of the thermostat housing with a ball valve. My final bleed step is to connect a clear 1/4" tube to the ball valve and tape it to the hand hold near the top of the companionway. Surprisingly the fluid will climb that high. With the engine running I open the ball valve. The coolant begins to fill the hose and remaining air bubbles in the system percolate out. When the air bubbles stop or slow to almost nothing, I close the ball valve.
FWIW - If the Par hand pump has been sitting a while, put some o-ring lubricant on the shaft and the internal rubber pump plunger. Otherwise the pump may be "sticky" and not operate smoothly.
The set up is a Par hand pump, and a short piece of (1/2" id I think) clear hose open on one end and reduced down to a hose barb to fit the water heater loop hose connected to the thermostat housing on the other end. Optional is a second short section of clear (1/2"id I think) hose to fit onto the discharge end of the Par hand pump. I found this piece of hose is not really needed.
Remove the coolant reservoir/tank "radiator" pressure cap. This is not the overflow tank.
Disconnect the hose in the water heater loop from the thermostat housing, and plug the hose barb into it. Connect the open end of the clear hose to the suction end of the Par hand pump. Optional add a short section of clear hose to the discharge end of the Par hand pump.
Put the discharge end of the pump into the coolant reservoir/tank (not the overflow tank). Begin hand pumping and you will draw coolant through the system and back into the reservoir/tank. Continue pumping until the stream of fluid into the reservoir/tank is a clear solid color indicating no air in the coolant loop. Reconnect the water heater loop hose to the thermostat housing, being careful not to loose any coolant. Put the "radiator" cap back on.
Start the engine and watch that the temperature stays in normal range. A simple no mess bleed/burp method.
I also replaced the OEM valve on the top of the thermostat housing with a ball valve. My final bleed step is to connect a clear 1/4" tube to the ball valve and tape it to the hand hold near the top of the companionway. Surprisingly the fluid will climb that high. With the engine running I open the ball valve. The coolant begins to fill the hose and remaining air bubbles in the system percolate out. When the air bubbles stop or slow to almost nothing, I close the ball valve.
FWIW - If the Par hand pump has been sitting a while, put some o-ring lubricant on the shaft and the internal rubber pump plunger. Otherwise the pump may be "sticky" and not operate smoothly.
#69
Main Message Board / Re: Holding tank questions
Last post by Jon W - July 05, 2024, 09:17:07 PMHi Dan. The 1.5" hose from the deck to the bottom side of the holding tank is for pumping out (emptying) the holding tank at a pump out station. It should be connected to a cap on the deck that says "Waste".
The 1.5" hose from the head connects the toilet to the top side of the holding tank. When you flush the toilet it empties into the holding tank.
The 1" hose from the stanchion is the holding tank vent, and should connect to an elbow screwed into the top center of the tank as Ken mentioned.
The purpose of the macerator pump is to be able to empty the holding tank overboard thru an anti siphon loop then out of the seacock. You can only discharge your holding tank overboard where it is allowed. If you're not allowed to discharge overboard where you sail, you don't need a macerator. Check your local laws/rules.
Glad you mentioned the write up in the Tech Wiki. I went back to jog my memory and noticed the last photo is for a different write up. It's correct now.
The 1.5" hose from the head connects the toilet to the top side of the holding tank. When you flush the toilet it empties into the holding tank.
The 1" hose from the stanchion is the holding tank vent, and should connect to an elbow screwed into the top center of the tank as Ken mentioned.
The purpose of the macerator pump is to be able to empty the holding tank overboard thru an anti siphon loop then out of the seacock. You can only discharge your holding tank overboard where it is allowed. If you're not allowed to discharge overboard where you sail, you don't need a macerator. Check your local laws/rules.
Glad you mentioned the write up in the Tech Wiki. I went back to jog my memory and noticed the last photo is for a different write up. It's correct now.
#70
Main Message Board / Re: Holding tank questions
Last post by KWKloeber - July 05, 2024, 06:44:55 PM@Dan
I believe the tank should have 90 ell on top for the vent hose. At least that's what my 30 has so it fits under the cubby cover.
Being on the Great Lakes the PO probably removed the macerator, or maybe when she was first commissioned. Either way, its nothing to concern yourself with (unless you plan on ocean cruising.)
I believe the tank should have 90 ell on top for the vent hose. At least that's what my 30 has so it fits under the cubby cover.
Being on the Great Lakes the PO probably removed the macerator, or maybe when she was first commissioned. Either way, its nothing to concern yourself with (unless you plan on ocean cruising.)