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Teflon tape tears very easily  - if you wrap it tightly you can see the threads will cut right through it as you wrap.  So you are still making metal to metal contact. If no contact  the zinc would not corrode.  Having said that, I'd still opt for a conductive sealant like Ron suggested.

Brad,
A trick I learned (by accident) to remove a stuck heat exchanger zinc is to run and warm up the engine first. 

Wow!!!   I'm pleased see others have been successful.    Thankis for all the input.

It's time to rebed a leaking chainplate, and I'm thinking of using butyl rubber instead of my usual polysulfide with hope that it will last longer.  I'm not sure if this will work though.  I'm looking for tips/ advice for this job. 

I saw Mainesail's excellent write-up on rebedding stanchions with butyl tape, and that seems like a fairly straightforward process.  Chainplates, on the other hand, have a gap surrounding them and the deck cutout.  This is normally filled with polysulfide (or whatever your  choice of goop is) prior to bedding and screwing down the rectangular deckplate.  So what is the best way to fill this gap with butyl rubber?  My plan is to clean out the gap as best as I can and then fill by cramming bits of butyl tape into the gaps until it is filled and flush with the deck (easier said than done?). Then I will bed the deckplate over top of this with strips of tape in a similar fashion as Mainesail outlined for  stanchion bases.  Since there is a also a small gap between the chainplate and the deckplate, some butyl will be visible, and exposed to the sun.  I assume (hope) it is UV resistant, as butyl rubber is used in roofing.

I am concerned that the two screws which secure the deckplate to the deck will not exert enough pressure to adequately squeeze the butyl , and  I may end up with stripped holes.   I already use oversize screws  here.

I am also concerned that the butyl might not stick well to the chainplate, because the pressure is not directly on (orthogonal to) the chainplate, but rather is downward (parallel to the chainplate).

So as I write this, I am starting to convince myself that butyl might not work for this application.  Anyone have any thoughts to share?  Maybe I'll be the guinea pig?

Ken,
A few years ago I reattached a wood transom.  Got the glue and, more importantly, good "how to" advice from Inflatable Experts in Eastport.  It held up well, though I did add some fasteners as backup.  Temperature and humidity control are important.  I did mine in my basement with all HVAC vents sealed to prevent the funes from traveling through the house.   

oops - hit send b4  ready.  Greg, I like your square bucket idea.  I think I will look for one of those.  I once toyed with building a small shelf inside - it would require glassing wood supports to the hull  - I decided that was too much work for a little extra storage, and would lose the garbage storage capability.  I also store fenders down there.  I tie their lines to a small cleat mounted at the top so we we dont have to dive for them.

It's a great place to store garbage bags when you're not able to get rid of them on shore.  I like the s

Hello,
I am looking to find replacements for the velcro dots that the salon curtains stick to when "closed" or covering the window.  The dots are 1" diameter, beige in color.  The dots look to be adhesive backed, and mounted on a disk which is then screwed into the wall above the port.   I found one supplier of the adhesive dots at $25 for a roll of 800!!   I'll gladly share if others are interested, and there is no cheaper alternative available.
Thanks,
Bob

After 3 years of similar problem, tracked it to ho water tank.  Old and rusted, leaking from a lower seam. Water track to bilge was hard to find so that masked the problem.

Boatzincs.com has pencil zincs of various lengths. You can buy the size that fits without having to cut.  Their zincs are MUCH cheaper than WH, even w/ shipping. I buy several years worth at a time.

Mark,
Try removing it after the engine is run for a while and the HX is warmed up.  That did the trick for me when I had the same problem.

Dan,
I searched in vain for replacements,  as you did, when the top of one was popped off and knocked overboard by a hyperactive jib sheet.  I ended up buying Plastimo Cool n Dry, p/n 30844.   It was a fairly close fit. About $200 for a set, including the base, from ahoycaptain.  Bought 2 years ago.  Good luck, Bob

I had a similar problem. Turned out to be the hot water heater. Could not find it until it got worse this year.

I installed the tape type sensor on the forward end of the tank.  Could not install on aft end as you want to because my battery charger is mounted there.   Anyway, I cut an access hole in the plywood wall separating the tank area from the forward storage area under the seat.  Irregular shape hole, I'm guessing aound 8" high, 6" wide.  Before I cut, I was able to confirm there was several inches of clearance between the tank wall and plywood wall.  I cut the hole with a jigsaw with shortened blade, but there was some hand sawing required in the lower corners.    A hole in the middle of the wall does not compromise the strength the way a slot from above will, though you could always add a reinforcement bracket if you are concerned.   I was able to clean the area and install the tape with some effort.   Used the hole cutout to close the hole.  Did so by cutting a slightly larger piece of 1/4" plywood and attaching to cutout piece.  The edge overhang from the larger size 1/4" ply created a lip area to screw it into the wall.   I wanted to have easy access in case the tape peeled, which it hasn't yet (2 years).  After installing the tape, I sprayed over the tape and tank area with some sort of adhesive/sealant - I can't remember what it was, but it was clear, and somewhat thick.  Might have been recommended on this site or mfr site.  Helps to keep the tape from peeling.    If I find it, I'll post.  I've had  no issues with the monitor.  A very good addition.

Mark, I just did that job a few weeks ago.  I did not use the drywall screw, though I think it would have been easier. I just drilled a pilot hole in the center then worked up to a larger bit size. Then I pried on the plug in the hole with a small screwdriver. They all came out easy.  The harder part is putting in the new plugs and making a smooth flush top. Better to let the glue dry before starting to chisel.