Topics

Hello,
I will be replacing our old Mermaid 16K (self-contained unit) this spring, as it is quite old and has a number of issues.  Considering Marinair and Dometic models due to similar size and layout as the Mermaid.   I've read good and bad about each... am hoping I can get some advice from members of this esteemed group 
Recommendations for or against for performance,  reliability, noise, etc. 
Thanks!!

I am getting ready to track down the cause of recent starting problems, where I push the start button and nothing happens.  (No solenoid click, but can see voltage drop on the panel meter when switch is depressed).   I want to replace the push-button starter switch, as it is original, and easy to do.   I suspect the problem is voltage drop in the start wire to the solenoid.  Will also replace the in-line fuse. (I already replaced the starter ground cable when this problem appeared one time last year). Will try to identify the culprit prior to making any changes. Since the problem is infrequent, I am sure it won't occur during my troubleshoot.  But I'll take voltage drop measurements anyway.  I have the M35 engine with wiring harness upgrade.

I am looking for recommendations for a good quality replacement switch.  I saw one on Catalina Direct website, but maybe there is a better one out there??

Thanks

Want to connect my Raymarine instruments to Garmin chart plotter. The required cables and adapters run close to $200 if using the Raymarine ng cables.  Now looking at standard N2k to try to reduce the cost a bit..  Can anyone recommend a brand/vendor for best price?

Found a drop-in replacement on eBay.  Installed and verified working.
Passing this along to anyone else who may need one, as I had a hard time tracking one down.  $5.49!! I should have bought a spare.

BLACK-ON-OFF-MINI-SWITCH-12V-WITH-RED-LIGHT-3-PRONG-RV-ROCKER, Seller cmlsurpluscindy

http://www.ebay.com/itm/351711233441?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

I've been using Mobil 1 synthetic 30W or 10W30 for years in my Universal M35, but when I went to buy some today, I saw it no longer carries the diesel API rating.   So after poking around the Mobil web site for awhile, I finally found a chart showing the API ratings of all of their oils.  The only one which carries the current API diesel rating (CJ-4) is Mobil 1™ Turbo Diesel Truck, offered in 5W40 only.  My engine manual specifies (SAE) 30 HD. (CD) or 10W40).  The CD rating is long obsolete, and I assume the CJ-4 covers it.

So I'm searching for a new oil.  Thought I'd put the question out here before looking further.  Any suggestions?

Thanks!!

I just installed a new Adler Barbour CU-100 Coldmachine  and companion VD-150 evaporator.  These replace the OEM Adler Barbour DCM-12 and SFV-1 evaporator.   I hooked it up last night and my hopes for a nice cold fridge were kind of deflated.  It seems to work, but does not seem as cold as the old unit.  The evaporator frosted only on the rear side, whereas the old unit caused frost on both front and back.  I had it on for maybe an hour and the front side never frosted.

Both new and old units have similar cooling capacity specs, so my first thought was that the new unit is not working correctly.  But......after thinking about it, I noted many differences that would justify lower performance of the new one.  The new unit is smaller overall, has a smaller compressor, is lighter weight, runs on R-134, and draws less current.   I know little about refrigeration but these all seem to point to lower cooling capacity when compared to the old.  Note that the new evaporator looks identical to the old one in every aspect except part number, so I don't really see that as a variable.  The unit came pre-charged - I have no means of checking charge level, but there was negligible charge loss during hook-up.   It did give me a brief fault on initial start-up which did not reappear.  Fault code was over-charge!!.  Not sure if I believe it unless it occurs again. 

I didn't get a chance to run the unit long enough to stabilize the fridge temp and start the compressor cycling.  Won't be able to do that until it is loaded with food on upcoming trip.  So I am wondering if I should plan ice runs into our itinerary.

Has anyone else made similar fridge replacement?  How does your performance compare to mine?

Thanks

Just saw this advertised by Catalina Direct -  a method to "inject" new rudder bearings!.  A mixture of epoxy and graphite is injected into the rudder tube while the rudder is installed.   Still requires rudder removal before-hand, to wax the rudder shaft so it doesn't stick to the injected epoxy.  Sounds easier than other fixes.....if it works.   And what do you do if the wax doesn't work????    Wish I saw this when I had my rudder off last year.  Has anyone tried this or anything similar? 

http://www.catalinadirect.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&product_ID=2791 

Am considering purchasing this anchor.   Does any MK I owner have this anchor mounted on the stock bow roller?   I understand the bail would need to be replaced, but am wondering if that is all I need to do.

Thanks

Autopilot stopped working one day this past summer   When in auto, the compass reading never changed, and the motor never actuated.  It read "A034".  When in standby mode the reading never changed either, it read "C034", with the C flashing.

I verified the motor worked by pressing the +10 and -10 keys. 

I also tried the compass deviation correction routine (slow 360 degree circle), but it never displayed the deviation, as I sort of  expected.

My first thought was the fluxgate compass died, but I did a functional (resistance) test as described in the ST4000 service manual, and all connector pin resistances were in spec. 

So I removed the control head this week with the intent of sending it to Raymarine for checkout.  I just found out they no longer service the head, so I am stuck trying to figure this out for myself.   I can gamble and try to find a used head somewhere, but I am unsure if the problem really is the control head or maybe is the compass. 

Has anyone ever experienced this type failure, or can offer some troubleshoot advice?

Th

Several findings have me wondering what to do next.....  the rudder showed weeping with rust stains when the boat was pulled several weeks ago.  This week I drilled a few inspection holes in the sides of the rudder, and when I found water, I drilled quite a few more.  Black gooey water and muck drained out of several of the holes in one area.  Some dripped a bit of clear water surrounding the black water, but by and large the rest of the rudder foam was dry.   I'm guessing the foam decomposed in this one area, causing the void and black stuff.   I never did see any rusty water drain out, but it is possible it was in there with the black stuff.   The void is not too large, maybe an inch or two wide, and 6" vertical, located port side alongside the rudder shaft.  Starboard side is almost all dry.   
I also found the black water when I pumped the standing water out of the rudder tube from topside.
The next finding was when I dropped the rudder to get a look at the shaft where it enters the rudder.  I saw corrosion around the shaft which appears to be surface, but difficult to tell.    Photos of the shaft corrosion and drain holes are attached.

So I am debating my next moves, and if I should be considering a new rudder or not. 

Next step I am considering is to gently drill into the corroded areas of  the shaft  to see how deep the corrosion is.  Will need to do in several areas around the shaft.   If  I see clean metal without drilling far, I suppose I am OK, and have not compromised shaft strength. 

I will also see what has drained out of the holes in the two weeks since drilling them.  Also am considering (but really don't want to do) using a hole saw to remove a 3" portion of the skin where the void is so I can inspect the shaft and internal steel plate for corrosion.   But based on prior postings (no known stock/plate separation failures), I am not sure this is necessary.

I am looking for comments from anyone else who went through this, as well as suggestions/improvements to my next steps.   Did anyone else see black water/goo?  Does my shaft corrosion look bad?  Maybe they all look that way after 20 years? 
And last, I hate to ask........has anyone purchased a new rudder lately?  Latest price I found in a search of this forum was close to $2200 plus shipping in 2009.  Yikes.    Thanks in advance for your help ....

The steering stiffened up noticably duing the half hour motor to the winter haulout marina yesterday.  After haul, I inspected inside and out, and saw nothing.  It appears the stiffness is in the rudder, and not the wheel or cables.  I will try adding some oil when I inspect the packing gland - maybe that willl help.  During inspection I noticed big-time corrosion on the top side of the steering quadrant.  Lots of white powder - almost looks like a coating of snow.   A photo is attached though it does not show too good.  Is quadrant corrosion common?  Not sure why it would corrode so much, as it should be dry. Aluminum quadrant against stainless rudder shaft - has anyone ever installed a zinc on the quadrant? 

Does anyone know of a marine AC service tech in the upper Chesapeake area?  Located Middle River

It's time to rebed a leaking chainplate, and I'm thinking of using butyl rubber instead of my usual polysulfide with hope that it will last longer.  I'm not sure if this will work though.  I'm looking for tips/ advice for this job. 

I saw Mainesail's excellent write-up on rebedding stanchions with butyl tape, and that seems like a fairly straightforward process.  Chainplates, on the other hand, have a gap surrounding them and the deck cutout.  This is normally filled with polysulfide (or whatever your  choice of goop is) prior to bedding and screwing down the rectangular deckplate.  So what is the best way to fill this gap with butyl rubber?  My plan is to clean out the gap as best as I can and then fill by cramming bits of butyl tape into the gaps until it is filled and flush with the deck (easier said than done?). Then I will bed the deckplate over top of this with strips of tape in a similar fashion as Mainesail outlined for  stanchion bases.  Since there is a also a small gap between the chainplate and the deckplate, some butyl will be visible, and exposed to the sun.  I assume (hope) it is UV resistant, as butyl rubber is used in roofing.

I am concerned that the two screws which secure the deckplate to the deck will not exert enough pressure to adequately squeeze the butyl , and  I may end up with stripped holes.   I already use oversize screws  here.

I am also concerned that the butyl might not stick well to the chainplate, because the pressure is not directly on (orthogonal to) the chainplate, but rather is downward (parallel to the chainplate).

So as I write this, I am starting to convince myself that butyl might not work for this application.  Anyone have any thoughts to share?  Maybe I'll be the guinea pig?

Hello,
I am looking to find replacements for the velcro dots that the salon curtains stick to when "closed" or covering the window.  The dots are 1" diameter, beige in color.  The dots look to be adhesive backed, and mounted on a disk which is then screwed into the wall above the port.   I found one supplier of the adhesive dots at $25 for a roll of 800!!   I'll gladly share if others are interested, and there is no cheaper alternative available.
Thanks,
Bob

Just got the yearly sample pack of Boat US Christmas cards.  Is that a C34 on one of them?  Sure looks it to me

There was a post last year where the need for rudder stops was questioned.  Well, here is plenty of reason to have them........

Our steering cable broke during a tack in a narrow channel the other day.  (For you Chesapeake sailors, it was the entrance to the Magothy River).  The ultimate cause of the break was a misalignment between the molded fiberglass  rudder stop, and the rudder stop post located on the steering quadrant.  The misalignment allowed the cable end to ride up on the steering gear located at the top of the pedestal..   The cable broke at the thimble where it attaches to the chain .  The broken cable was frayed, and the thimble was mangled.  It appeared that the fraying had occurred over a long period of time as the thimble rode up onto the gear each time the rudder was turned hard to starboard.

Wear marks on the rudder stop show it worked at one point, but the worn rubber bushing on the rudder stop post eventually allowed  the post to pass right by the stop.  The attached photo shows the wear marks on the molded fiberglass stop.  The rubber bushing shown in the photo is an oversize replacement which temporarily fixes the problem. 

The second photo shows the top of the rudder post.  See the offset to starboard?  If the post was centered properly during manufacture, there would have never been a rudder stop alignment problem.  This problem took 17 years to show up!

You might want to check to see that your rudder stops are present, aligned, and working properly.   Easy enough to do, and will prevent a repeat of our experience.  I might add that this bit of bad luck ended nicely, as we got to our destination using the emergency tiller, rafted up with a friend as scheduled. and he got us access to a car.  We were able to get to WM and make up a new cable.   Had it all repaired the next morning.   Made a spare cable while I was at it. 

I  am surprised the rudder post was offset so much.  Seems it should be easy to keep it in line during
manufacture.  Has anyone seen this before?

I bought a digitial converter box for our analog TV and have better reception of the digital stations than I do with the analog stations.  Everything I read said it would be worse.  We use only rabbitears (inside the cabin), and when at anchor in places where analog reception was usually fuzzy, I am now able to get digital stations - and better yet - weather radar pictures whenever we like!!   So I suspect the tuner in the digital box has much better sensitivity than the one within the TV. 

I just finished changing both fuel filters and hoses, and bled the lines using the bleed screw on the secendary filter and the bleed screw on the injector. The engine starts and runs fine (did not leave the dock), but I notice when I first turn on the ignition, the fuel pump ticking starts off very fast, and then slows down to normal rate.  As if it is building pressure up in the line.  I don't recall this happenig in the past, but maybe I didn't notice?  I'm concerned that there still may be air somewhere in the line.  Is the initial fast tick normal? 
Thanks,
Bob

Has anyone ever used Mack sails?  I just received a very competitive quote from them for new dacron main and genoa.  Their website details their construction materials and methods (both very good), but I have not ever seen their product.  Additionally, they are not local to me, so I am a bit hesitant.

Bob

Has anyone replaced their shower faucet assembly?   I suppose I can get one from Catalina, but there must be a less expensive RV type which will work. 
Thanks,
Bob

I am installing a new fuel tank, and I noticed a mfr's tag hanging from the engine (m35) which recommended the fuel return lne empty into the bottom of the fuel tank (using a pickup tube), otherwise, air can enter the system.   My original tank did not have this.  Is this necessary?

Our shake-down cruise was aborted today after finding fuel in the bilge. The fuel tank was the culprit.   So I spent a considerable sum on 5 gallon fuel containers, pumped the tank dry, and removed it.  After reading the many posts on this topic I can see that it was only a matter of time for this.  Anyhow, I recall (but can't find) a recent post where somebody mentioned a miracle cleaner for getting rid of diesel odor.  Does anyone remember what it is?  Also,  I would like to reuse the old fuel (the tank was full, of course), but want to filter it first.  Is this something I can do, or can I bring it somewhere to have it done? 

Just ordered my Christmas present today - the 3 blade model.  If anyone out there is considering purchasing one, do so before the end of this year, as the the price is increasing by $200 on Jan 1.
Happy Holidays,
Bob

We will be sailing the upper Chesapeake next week - planning to cruise the Sassafras, and Bohemia rivers, as well as see the C&D canal. We have never been to this area, and would appreciate any recommendations for good anchorages, marinas, fishing spots for the kids, places to see, etc.

Thanks ahead,
Bob

My outhaul seems to have frozen up.     It seems to be catching somewhere within the boom, I think on the gooseneck side.  Has anyone had this problem?

I am ready to reseal a leaking chainplate - I resealed it with Lifecaulk polysulfide caulk two years ago, and it is now starting to leak a bit - it looks like the sealant did not bond well to the stainless chainplate - maybe I didn't clean all the old silicone off good enough.  Anyway, I am looking for a better sealant  - I heard there is a new type sealant that is similar to polysulfide but it is UV resistant and does not discolor.  I didn't see it during my last to BoatUS, but I was in a hurry, and maybe I missed it.  Can anyone tell me what this new stuff is called?  (or maybe I just dreamed this stuff up one cold winter night???)

Thanks,
Bob 

My ST40 wind speed indicator always reads significantly lower wind speed than actual.  The cups turn slower than on other boats, so I am sure the problem is in the sending unit.  I hope I can clean or lubricate it to restore proper operation.   A search of this forum shows at least one other has had same problem, but not known if ever resolved.  Are there any pearls of wisdom out there to share with me?
Thanks,
Bob

The Lewmar 65 series trapezoidal forward hatch on my 1992 has a gasket leak, needs the hinges rebuilt, and can use a lens replacement due to UV damage (microcracks).   I spoke with Pete at Florida Rigging and Hydraulic about repair options.(there are numerous posts on this forum which recommend him for Lewmar parts and repairs).  Pete suggested I consider replacing the entire hatch with a new Lewmar hatch.  I cannot recall the hatch type, but he said it was "almost" a drop-in replacement.  The corner radius might not match up and that would require some cutting of the fiberglass to make the hatch fit.  The cost of a new hatch was somewhere around $450,  and the cost of repairing my hatch is about $100 less.  I could save maybe $100 more by doing the repair myself. 

My question - has anybody installed a new hatch to replace their old series 65?  How hard was it to fit the new hatch?

Thanks,
Bob

My shaft is removed, and I am ready to press my cutless bearing out with a home-made press.   (Described on a previous post using 5/16" threaded rod, a socket wrench 1/2" drive socket, 5" of 1 1/2" pipe, and a few nuts/washers. ) Problem is, I can't find a drive socket with an OD of just under 1.25" which I can use to push through the strut to push the bearing out.  Can anybody offer any suggestions?
Thanks

Our fridge doesn't cycle on and off anymore even when the thermostat is turned low.  It always keeps the beer nice and cold, so I haven't been too anxious to dive in to try and fix it, but it does take it's toll on the batteries.  I'm not sure if it is a thermostat problem, or if it needs recharging. Is there an easy way to determine?
Thanks

The vinyl windows on our dodger are getting hazy and hard to see through due to age (and some neglect in regular cleaning).   I  would like to try one of the cleaners / restorers that are made for this purpose  - I've seen a few at Boat US and auto parts stores.  Some are called cleaners, some are called polishes, and others are called restorers.  Does anybody have any recommendations?
Thanks

A few weeks ago I had the AC running (Mermaid 16000 BTU), and turned on the hot water heater.  I hadn't done this in the past for fear of popping the main (30A)breaker.  Well, the breaker did not pop, but after a while we started smelling burning plastic.  Quickly shut down everything and went looking for the source.  The breaker panel was quite warm to the touch, and the main breaker was hot.  It was the source of the smell.  I replaced it, inspected and tested the panel, and things seem to be running OK.   I will no longer attempt to run AC and HW heater together, but am curious how many amps I was drawing.  The Mermaid website says the AC draws about 12A.  Maybe mine draws a few more (may be an older modeL).  Does anybody know how many amps the stock (1992) hot water heater draws?  My paperwork has no specs.  Has anybody else had the burning breaker experience?

I noticed the propane solenoid located next to the cylinder gets very hot when on for 10 minutes or more.    Has been this way since we purchased the boat.  I checked current consumption, and it is about 1 amp.   I don't have the solenoid manufacturer or p/n handy, but I recall looking it up last year, and seeing that 1 amp is the correct current.   

When I say hot, I mean too hot to keep your hand on for more than a few seconds.  Is this normal?

My fuel gage recently stopped working - pegged on E.   After some use, it occasionally popped up to the correct level, about 3/4 tank.  My first thought was that I bumped the wire at that the sending unit when I replaced the exhaust hose earlier this spring.   Today I measured the voltages at the gage while it was pegged on Empty, and I measured, 12.5V (battery voltage), 0V ground, and 10.5V.  I assume this 10.5V is from the sending unit, so I am now thinking the gage itself is the problem.  Tapping it didn't change anything.  Has anybody ever measured the sending unit output voltage?  How bout price and availability of a new gage? 
Thanks,
Bob

Hello to all – I am new to this group.  We purchased a 1992 C34 last year (Tall rig / Wing keel), and are proceeding down our "to do" list for the boat.  We are considering a new mainsail, as the old one (original, full batten) doesn't have much shape left to it.  I have gotten quotes back from a number of sailmakers, and the prices vary widely.  Granted, the options differ among them, but the price variation seems a bit much.  To those out there who have replaced their mainsails in the last year or two, could you please tell me who made your sail, and if you are happy with the construction, performance, and service of the loft?   Was the price right?  We sail the Chesapeake Bay, and we are only an hour from Annapolis, where most of the major sailmakers have lofts, so I will likely visit a few prior to purchase to see examples of their work.  We do not race, but we certainly don't like to go slow! Comments on loose footed mains are solicited also.   
Thanks