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Messages - Terry Forshier

#271
Main Message Board / Re: replacement hatch cover
May 16, 2006, 04:51:16 PM
new hatch cover arrived from BOMAR. Cost 117.00 as overstock. Prioce on the web was $600+ I checked when it came  looks like an exact match for the old one. BOMAR NUMBER  N-1070-10 A  fit 188 Hull #570
they said they had a few more in stock
#272
Main Message Board / Threading on a new Halyard
May 16, 2006, 06:23:51 AM
I bought some new halyards and want to change them out from the old ones on the boat. It looked pretty straight forward, just tie on to the old one and thread it through. Then I see I have a shackel on one end. So, do I remove the old one pulling it through backwards with a leader line then attach to that line the new halyard and then pull that one through? Not knowing the set up on top with the (sheives) will this slide through pretty easy or is it a tight fit? I do not want to get hung up at 44 feet as I have no one who will go up at this time. (vacations on mast climbers) Just some advice from someone who has already done this. Terry
#273
Main Message Board / Re: Biodiesel revisited
May 15, 2006, 04:20:48 PM
True for all the above. I used an 80/20 mix with the biodiesel at 20%. I kept waiting for the french fries to smell but really it was alittle like popcorn. I think this biodiesel was made from old grease and not from midwest grain (soy beans I think) I noticed that the engine ran well, smooth, and I felt it had cleaned out the cylilnders of the sludge from my 1979 2QM15 Yanmar.
It really ran well all last year and did not smoke when I pushed it. the old diesel fuel would leave a black smoke stain on the transom and it was hard to clean off. It was a direct salt water cooled system. I used a gallon of diesel every 2.5 hours at 5kts or 2200 rpm. With the biodiesel it went to about a gallon per 2 hours.
The seller , who was a charter captain on an older Pearson, out of Captiva said he ran pure biodiesel. He did , though, change all his fuel lines and filtters after the first few tanks.
I took several trips of 100+ miles a whack with the bio blend Like from Naples to the Dry Tortugas and back and to Key West and Marathon and back. All about 100 miles each way all across Florida Bay. Most of these trips were motoring in the soft summer winds we get in Florida.
I was paying close attention as I was dodging some of the exciting weather we have had here in SW FLorida. Fortunatly one of the big blows we were in convinced my wife we needed a bigger boat. (that is another story)Thus, we now have our Catalina 34 and not the O'Day 30 that we sailed for 20 years. This was a real nice step up for us.
Terry
#274
Main Message Board / Re: Biodiesel revisited
May 15, 2006, 12:09:32 PM
Here in SW floridaa I found a person on Captiva selling biodiesel out of barrels at this house. Last year I bought about 20 gallons, mixed it with my regular diesel and used it all summer. It did burn with less smoke and also used a little more fuel. I was told that I would need to change lines or filters but did not have to. My old Yanmar ran well on it and my transom did not get black with smoke stains.
Most people I have asked around here find some reason not to use it but for me It worked well and did not smell or smoke like diesel oil does.
#275
What size flex a fold propeller did you two buy? I think they make a 2 and a 3 blade prop. I have the XP25. on H #570. ??
Also the KiWi props talked about?? I could not get a price page. Terry
#276
Main Message Board / Re: replacement hatch cover
May 07, 2006, 06:14:40 PM
I have looked all over the hatch and can find no number. Anyone ideas? I need to order one and hope I can get a overstock like some others. Pretty pricey. Terry
Bakaluka
1988 #570
#277
congratulations. I am a new owner last month of a 1988 #570, now named BAKALUKA,  I am still learning too but found this site very helpful.. Terry in NAples FL
#278
Main Message Board / Re: xp25 rpm's
May 06, 2006, 12:53:39 PM
OK, yesterday I went out and motored around. When the alternator was set to give a high charge the motor slowed appreciably, down to 2400 on the tack. As I lowered the charge or output the motor gained rpm's. At the point I turned off the alternator I was doing 2800 to 2900 on the tack. This variation was the problem I was concerned about and now I know what is causing it. Incidenmtly this is a new  tack last year and was supposed to be set up with the new alternator system by P.O.
#279
Main Message Board / replacement hatch cover
May 05, 2006, 04:22:51 PM
the hatch cover in the top center of the boat (under the vang) was cracked and today my wife finished it off. Is there a standartd replacement I can order and just switch out? Terry
#280
Main Message Board / Re: xp25 rpm's
May 04, 2006, 01:15:56 PM
I have an adjustable alternator on the boat. Turning it on and up, it whines and increases the charge from just a few amps to 18. I think now that when the charge is turned up it must increase the load and take away some of the power of the engine. I am going to vary this next time I get out to see how much drag it actually adds. Also I was reading the kts from the display from the little paddle wheel indicator on the signet ystem. This I think may also be off some and the former owner now says that that system always reads less than his GPS.
#281
Main Message Board / xp25 rpm's
May 03, 2006, 01:44:14 PM
The 25xp diesel in the 1988 C34 I just purchased seems to run well but under full throttle will do only 2500 rpm. The motor was recently checked out by a mechanic and pronounced goog to go. The prop is the factory installed 3 blade, bottom and prop just cleaned and tuned. My old Yanmar seemed to have more reserve. Is this the norm? Motoring at 5kts standard?  It does not seem to strain, it just goes to 2500 rpm and stays there. Terry
#282
I was told last year by the boat yard foreman where I go that if the motor vibrates at strart up and low or idle speed then you need new motor mounts. You should be able to see this if you start the motor and watch . As the motor reves up it will settle down and you will get less vibration. Mounts on my old YANMAR were adjustable by thightening the nuts on them One above and one below the lip. ( I just bought my C34 and have not checked this out on the Universal.) hope this helps. Terry
#283
Main Message Board / Re: Taking off decals
May 01, 2006, 05:03:58 PM
Thanks for the replys. The first side I worked on was experimental. I tried it all, goof off  and rubbing compound and all as earlier reported. Today I went out with some ultra fine sandpaper sponges and sanded lightly the areas that were bleeding through. It came off very well and I did not sand through the gel coat. Now I need to put on a coat of wax or something and polish it up. Should be able to put new letters right over it.
With this success I decided to shortcut the other side. I got a small palm sander,a rubber hand sander,  a razer blade and goof off. First I applied the goof off with a paintbrush on the decal and let it set a few minutes. I took the blade and was able to scrape off the plastic decal. This left the thick build up on the gold lettering and bleed through baked on areas. These I lightly sanded off with the sander until thin and finished by hand. It took about 30 minutes vs 3 hours on the other side.
I think I have a good result considering it has been there for 18 years baking in the Florida sun.
Terry








terry
#284
Main Message Board / Taking off decals
April 28, 2006, 04:25:04 PM
I spent a lot of time today trying to get the old name off the side of my new boat. It is a huge decal and I tried a hair dryer, no good. I tried a razer blade, not the best by far and it knicks the sides. I tried a little "Stripper" on a brush and then used the blade to peel it off. I went to the store and bought "goof Off" and it worked marginally.  I then tried rubbing compound I use on the plastic car.I tried every solvent in my shop. Finally it is more of less off. (one side) but the area is still shows the baked in outline. A little more come off. I guess tomorrow I will fire up the polisher see if I can polish it out the rest of the way. A lot of work and I still have the other side to do.
Anyone have any other ideas?
Terry in NAples
#285
Main Message Board / Re: Self bleeding system
April 25, 2006, 06:30:25 PM
My boat befor the Catalina 34 was an O'Day 30 with a 2QM15 Yanmar. To bleed it the previous owner had installed a squeeze bulb (like in a outboardf motor line) I would turn the top nut until it barely cracked open then I would squeeze that ball and when the fuel squirted out the air was out.
It was great when I changed fuel filteres, pruged the RACOR or somehow got a bubble in the line. In the past 15 years I used it several times. I was told by a surveyor it was not safe but it sure helped when I needed it.
Terry