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#8102
Main Message Board / Cross-tie stern?
May 19, 2005, 11:01:57 AM
Kyle
All the cleats are simply through-bolted. That means that they'll handle loads in any direction. There are no directional issues involved (other than straight up!).
All the cleats are simply through-bolted. That means that they'll handle loads in any direction. There are no directional issues involved (other than straight up!).
#8103
Main Message Board / 1990 C34 Manual
May 19, 2005, 09:15:01 AM
Rick
Print out the manual and just use it. The boats don't change the way cars do. Document whatever you find that has changed by marking up your manual, just the way the rest of us do. It's pretty generic and you'll want to be careful about noticing & noting changes the PO made to your boat. Please add your hull # to your signature, and please join the IA and your local fleet.
Print out the manual and just use it. The boats don't change the way cars do. Document whatever you find that has changed by marking up your manual, just the way the rest of us do. It's pretty generic and you'll want to be careful about noticing & noting changes the PO made to your boat. Please add your hull # to your signature, and please join the IA and your local fleet.
#8104
Main Message Board / fuel bleeding problems
May 18, 2005, 10:16:06 PM
From a search on Bleeding, scroll down to subject: Topic "secondary filter bleeding" - This is my reply to John's orignal question.
I replumbed the pump to AFTER the Racor, and it pumps JUST FINE. A pump is a pump, regardless of whether it's in front of or after the Racor.
Clean the pump filter at the base of the pump.
Posted: Sun Apr 03, 2005 4:52 pm Post subject: Bleeding
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
John
Haven't had a leak there. New leak on old filter or new leak on new filter? Remember to lube the O ring and threads with diesel or oil before installing a new filter.
On my M25, the nut on the top of the filter housing is THE place to get the air out of the system. I do not fill the secondary (engine mounted) filter with fuel, since it is a bear to get back there and put a strap wrench on it, no less getting my hand in to get the threads started. If it is empty, I can't spill any fuel. It is difficult to avoid spilling fuel when I remove the old one.
Once the new clean secondary filter is on, I just open that bolt, run the electric fuel pump by turning on the key switch at the panel, wait till the air is gone, close the bolt, and I'm done. Even opening the knurled knob is unnecessary. I tried just the knurled knob, but that didn't work. Shucks! But the bolt on the filter housing is relatively easy to get to with a long extender on a socket or just a combination wrench. I wrote more details up on "bleeding" earlier.
The fuel pump will pump through BOTH the Racor AND the secondary filter. I re-plumbed our Racor to be ahead of the electric fuel pump on the fuel line from the tank.
I would normally just cut & paste the direct URL on the search for "bleeding" for you, but for some reason, the way this board is working recently, is that I can get the search result up on the screen, but the URL ends with "=results" and NOT the actual WYSIWYG. So if I paste that, you don't get the search results. I have to go into one specific post from the array from the search, and can get that URL, but not the full search result. Sorry. If you just try the search, on "bleeding" you'll find all of those posts.
This is one of them: http://www.c34.org/phpbb/viewtopic.php?t=1431&highlight=bleeding
_________________
Stu Jackson, C34 IA Secretary, #224 1986, "Aquavite" San Francisco Bay
I replumbed the pump to AFTER the Racor, and it pumps JUST FINE. A pump is a pump, regardless of whether it's in front of or after the Racor.
Clean the pump filter at the base of the pump.
Posted: Sun Apr 03, 2005 4:52 pm Post subject: Bleeding
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
John
Haven't had a leak there. New leak on old filter or new leak on new filter? Remember to lube the O ring and threads with diesel or oil before installing a new filter.
On my M25, the nut on the top of the filter housing is THE place to get the air out of the system. I do not fill the secondary (engine mounted) filter with fuel, since it is a bear to get back there and put a strap wrench on it, no less getting my hand in to get the threads started. If it is empty, I can't spill any fuel. It is difficult to avoid spilling fuel when I remove the old one.
Once the new clean secondary filter is on, I just open that bolt, run the electric fuel pump by turning on the key switch at the panel, wait till the air is gone, close the bolt, and I'm done. Even opening the knurled knob is unnecessary. I tried just the knurled knob, but that didn't work. Shucks! But the bolt on the filter housing is relatively easy to get to with a long extender on a socket or just a combination wrench. I wrote more details up on "bleeding" earlier.
The fuel pump will pump through BOTH the Racor AND the secondary filter. I re-plumbed our Racor to be ahead of the electric fuel pump on the fuel line from the tank.
I would normally just cut & paste the direct URL on the search for "bleeding" for you, but for some reason, the way this board is working recently, is that I can get the search result up on the screen, but the URL ends with "=results" and NOT the actual WYSIWYG. So if I paste that, you don't get the search results. I have to go into one specific post from the array from the search, and can get that URL, but not the full search result. Sorry. If you just try the search, on "bleeding" you'll find all of those posts.
This is one of them: http://www.c34.org/phpbb/viewtopic.php?t=1431&highlight=bleeding
_________________
Stu Jackson, C34 IA Secretary, #224 1986, "Aquavite" San Francisco Bay
#8105
Main Message Board / Inverter transfer switch
May 17, 2005, 11:56:23 AM
Ken
It seems to me that FUNCTION is the most important issue here, followed closely by ability to resist marine environment. Whith those two criteria, if it works, why not? If you choose to do so, remember to turn your charger off at the panel (if you have a separate charger breaker) as I mentioned in my earlier discussion about Jon Arck's installation. Then please post the model of the switch you used.
It seems to me that FUNCTION is the most important issue here, followed closely by ability to resist marine environment. Whith those two criteria, if it works, why not? If you choose to do so, remember to turn your charger off at the panel (if you have a separate charger breaker) as I mentioned in my earlier discussion about Jon Arck's installation. Then please post the model of the switch you used.
#8106
Main Message Board / dinghy outboard size
May 17, 2005, 11:52:22 AM
Gerry
Good question. The earlier suggestion to do a search on "dinghy" may shed some light on that since Randy bought his plywood floor specifically because he fishes and didn't want to get caught with a fish hook in his floor!!!
I also recorded that I'd installed outdoor carpert over the floor in our inflatable floor. That may be a way for you to go.
Also don't know how sharp your dog's claws really are!
Good question. The earlier suggestion to do a search on "dinghy" may shed some light on that since Randy bought his plywood floor specifically because he fishes and didn't want to get caught with a fish hook in his floor!!!
I also recorded that I'd installed outdoor carpert over the floor in our inflatable floor. That may be a way for you to go.
Also don't know how sharp your dog's claws really are!
#8107
Main Message Board / access doors, fender size, mast wedges, & galley white d
May 15, 2005, 11:26:57 AM
Kerk
The wedges are like door stops, triangular in cross section. Make a few of them at varying tapers and you should be OK. The space between the partners (the hole) and the mast is only about an inch or an inch and half at the most on each side with the mast centered.
Because I single-hand a lot, I just leave the 6 x 23 fenders hooked to the lifelines, but ON DECK. We have 6 of them. Your boat, your choice, how can anyone tell you how many or what size will work for you? Look around at other boats, albeit early in the season. If you drape them around outside the lifelines and they're hanging over the side, you have what is referred to as "Marina Del Rey Racing Stripes." No offense to our So. Cal. brethren.
The wedges are like door stops, triangular in cross section. Make a few of them at varying tapers and you should be OK. The space between the partners (the hole) and the mast is only about an inch or an inch and half at the most on each side with the mast centered.
Because I single-hand a lot, I just leave the 6 x 23 fenders hooked to the lifelines, but ON DECK. We have 6 of them. Your boat, your choice, how can anyone tell you how many or what size will work for you? Look around at other boats, albeit early in the season. If you drape them around outside the lifelines and they're hanging over the side, you have what is referred to as "Marina Del Rey Racing Stripes." No offense to our So. Cal. brethren.
#8108
Main Message Board / Oberdorfer impeller pump
May 15, 2005, 11:20:08 AM
Dave
I don't have one of those tools. I have always been able to get it off with two small flat bladed screwdrivers. Just have to be careful that when it comes off it doesn't fly across the cabin!
I don't have one of those tools. I have always been able to get it off with two small flat bladed screwdrivers. Just have to be careful that when it comes off it doesn't fly across the cabin!
#8109
Main Message Board / Reverse Polarity
May 14, 2005, 10:51:30 PM
Someone worked on the dockside power while you were away.
#8110
Main Message Board / Beckson Port Gaskets
May 13, 2005, 09:37:49 AM
David
Yes, they are a difficult fix, I just did one. The instructions that came with the gaskets are quite clear. While mine are on the boat, I remember them suggesting to NOT use anything to "assist" in the installation, other than cleaning out the groove. They recommended stretching the gaskets first. I did that, but overdid it and had to take it out and start all over! My fingers still hurt (and I have 5 more to go!). I just followed their instructions, and the ones in the box with the new gaskets are a bit different than the ones on Beckson's website. You'll feel better knowing they are in right and will last for another six years. Just don't tightn the clamps too tight or you'll just crush the new gaskets.
There shouldn't be anything in the groove, just air. The black plastic you mentioned could have been the frame from an old screen. My PO had all the screens in the ports, but there are still 8 black plastic "rings" sitting in one of our drawers - I still haven't figured out what they are for.
Yes, they are a difficult fix, I just did one. The instructions that came with the gaskets are quite clear. While mine are on the boat, I remember them suggesting to NOT use anything to "assist" in the installation, other than cleaning out the groove. They recommended stretching the gaskets first. I did that, but overdid it and had to take it out and start all over! My fingers still hurt (and I have 5 more to go!). I just followed their instructions, and the ones in the box with the new gaskets are a bit different than the ones on Beckson's website. You'll feel better knowing they are in right and will last for another six years. Just don't tightn the clamps too tight or you'll just crush the new gaskets.
There shouldn't be anything in the groove, just air. The black plastic you mentioned could have been the frame from an old screen. My PO had all the screens in the ports, but there are still 8 black plastic "rings" sitting in one of our drawers - I still haven't figured out what they are for.
#8111
Main Message Board / electrical problem
May 12, 2005, 11:04:55 AM
Ken, check the connections at the back of your 1-2-B switch, and the connections at your house bank. It sounds like one side of your 1-2-B switch isn't making contact. Could just be a bad switch.
Stu
Stu
#8112
Main Message Board / Running reef lines to the cockpit
May 12, 2005, 10:55:44 AM
Steve, I agree with Tom, and even if it wasn't centered the difference wouldn't matter. It's hard enough to get the clew line as tight as it really needs to be and the inherent stretch of the line would more than make up the difference. You can use the cheek block or use Tom's method. Eye straps would suffice to run the clew line forward on the boom. Remember, as I said, the PO had the internal lines led the way I described in the Tech Notes. Less holes in the boom is NOT a bad idea!
As far as the tack goes, we have the Harken track and cars on our mainsail luff, so that stack gets the tack cringle pretty high off the boom to begin with. Tom's idea is good if you have regular sail slugs. Our point of "compression" is pretty the same, because I don't want to stress the strap that connects the luff to the Harken car(s). What I do is just keep a loose tension on the tack when I first reef and get the luff tight with the main halyard, and a "high" tack. This keeps the strap clear a bit. As the halyard stretches (yeah, I should have gotten Stay Set X, not just Stay Set), I pull down a bit more on the tack, just like a cunningham!
As far as the tack goes, we have the Harken track and cars on our mainsail luff, so that stack gets the tack cringle pretty high off the boom to begin with. Tom's idea is good if you have regular sail slugs. Our point of "compression" is pretty the same, because I don't want to stress the strap that connects the luff to the Harken car(s). What I do is just keep a loose tension on the tack when I first reef and get the luff tight with the main halyard, and a "high" tack. This keeps the strap clear a bit. As the halyard stretches (yeah, I should have gotten Stay Set X, not just Stay Set), I pull down a bit more on the tack, just like a cunningham!
#8113
Main Message Board / Electrical Upgrade
May 11, 2005, 08:33:19 PM
THE QUESTION REMAINS
Lewco and other manufacturers have made “good” chargers for many years, and possible of varying types, i.e., ferro and others.
The issues is whether they are true smart 3 stage chargers – really that’s all the question is.
If you have to use a timer on your charger, or if it only puts out 13.8 volts all the time, or if it’s a tapering charger (like the OEM internal regulators on alternators or car battery chargers), or you don’t have a bulk, absorption, and float charging regimen, that ALL the battery manufacturers recommend, then I simply ask the question: WHY? (or why not?).
Ferros are still very good if you’re a live aboard. But MOST of us aren’t and the batteries require a smart charge. So, if ANY charger was the supreme product of its day, it was only in its day, which was or could have been many years ago.
Kind of like saying a Model T is a great car. Probably still is, but…
One of our batteries, the starting bank, was purchased in early 1999. That's five years and it's still going strong with a small solar panel charging the house bank and the start battery through a combiner, and, as Ray & Ron have mentioned, & never connected to the dock power unless we're on board (except for a night before we go out for more than a day sail) with a Freedom 1500 I/C (75 A charger to a 315 ah house bank). That's a great record for any battery bank.
I simply continue to recommend that you match the use to the equipment.
Lewco and other manufacturers have made “good” chargers for many years, and possible of varying types, i.e., ferro and others.
The issues is whether they are true smart 3 stage chargers – really that’s all the question is.
If you have to use a timer on your charger, or if it only puts out 13.8 volts all the time, or if it’s a tapering charger (like the OEM internal regulators on alternators or car battery chargers), or you don’t have a bulk, absorption, and float charging regimen, that ALL the battery manufacturers recommend, then I simply ask the question: WHY? (or why not?).
Ferros are still very good if you’re a live aboard. But MOST of us aren’t and the batteries require a smart charge. So, if ANY charger was the supreme product of its day, it was only in its day, which was or could have been many years ago.
Kind of like saying a Model T is a great car. Probably still is, but…
One of our batteries, the starting bank, was purchased in early 1999. That's five years and it's still going strong with a small solar panel charging the house bank and the start battery through a combiner, and, as Ray & Ron have mentioned, & never connected to the dock power unless we're on board (except for a night before we go out for more than a day sail) with a Freedom 1500 I/C (75 A charger to a 315 ah house bank). That's a great record for any battery bank.
I simply continue to recommend that you match the use to the equipment.
#8114
Main Message Board / Electrical Upgrade
May 09, 2005, 02:02:29 PM
Steve and Nancy
Haven't heard of Lewco for as long as I've been here. If it's heavy and has an ammeter on it, it's old and ready for the J heap.
However, in answer to your question, if it is a single stage charger, it IS killing your batteries by simply continuously undercharging them at a constant 13.8V. If you leave your boat plugged in all week at the dock, as most do, it's harmful. Maybe you won't see it immediately, but instead of six years on batteries, you'll only get three or four. I don't know what "doing fine per our measurements" consist of. If it's just voltage, unless you have everything OFF for 24 hours, both incoming and output, it's not a sufficient measurement.
That's the simple answer. As I've (and others) said, a quality 3 stage charger will give an immediate payback on battery cost by simply extending the life of the banks. While I can't begin to assume what you are planning, unless it includes a separate combined inverter/charger, if it includes a new charger, why not just bite the bullet and replace just the charger now?
A very good "What Batteries Need" article is at www.amplepower.com - download the Ample Power Primer. Great reading if you haven't done so already.
Haven't heard of Lewco for as long as I've been here. If it's heavy and has an ammeter on it, it's old and ready for the J heap.
However, in answer to your question, if it is a single stage charger, it IS killing your batteries by simply continuously undercharging them at a constant 13.8V. If you leave your boat plugged in all week at the dock, as most do, it's harmful. Maybe you won't see it immediately, but instead of six years on batteries, you'll only get three or four. I don't know what "doing fine per our measurements" consist of. If it's just voltage, unless you have everything OFF for 24 hours, both incoming and output, it's not a sufficient measurement.
That's the simple answer. As I've (and others) said, a quality 3 stage charger will give an immediate payback on battery cost by simply extending the life of the banks. While I can't begin to assume what you are planning, unless it includes a separate combined inverter/charger, if it includes a new charger, why not just bite the bullet and replace just the charger now?
A very good "What Batteries Need" article is at www.amplepower.com - download the Ample Power Primer. Great reading if you haven't done so already.
#8115
Main Message Board / Charles Redux Charger Update
May 09, 2005, 11:30:05 AM
In an effort to be fair to a manufacturer, a recent post has noted that new (2005) boats are still being built with Charles Chargers. This particular thread/post, in discussions above, had noted (a few years ago) some research on the negative aspects of the Charles chargers based on available information at that time.
It appears that Charles has improved their product line.
This consists of two things: being able to switch between battery types AND having a true 3 stage charging capability. (Equalization is separate, and doesn't appear in the catalog, or I just haven't read the whole thing yet!)
I recommend that you read the following newer thread for an update, and it includes links to Charles' website and product line:
http://c34.org/bbs/index.php?topic=2143.0
I also recommend that you check your charger on "newer" (say a 2003-4)but not necessarily "newest" (late 2004-5) boats, since I don't know when Charles started making the updated models with battery type switching AND the 3 stages of charging, nor do we know when Catalina started installing the updated products. The Charles models numbers appear to be the same, but the guts, and, therefore, the operation, may be different.
If you don't have the battery type switching on a "newer" Charles charger, I doubt you'd have an effective three stage charger, in which case the recommendations in this thread to use Statpower (Truecharge, Xantrex) would still apply.
Any feedback from other skippers would be much appreciated.
It appears that Charles has improved their product line.
This consists of two things: being able to switch between battery types AND having a true 3 stage charging capability. (Equalization is separate, and doesn't appear in the catalog, or I just haven't read the whole thing yet!)
I recommend that you read the following newer thread for an update, and it includes links to Charles' website and product line:
http://c34.org/bbs/index.php?topic=2143.0
I also recommend that you check your charger on "newer" (say a 2003-4)but not necessarily "newest" (late 2004-5) boats, since I don't know when Charles started making the updated models with battery type switching AND the 3 stages of charging, nor do we know when Catalina started installing the updated products. The Charles models numbers appear to be the same, but the guts, and, therefore, the operation, may be different.
If you don't have the battery type switching on a "newer" Charles charger, I doubt you'd have an effective three stage charger, in which case the recommendations in this thread to use Statpower (Truecharge, Xantrex) would still apply.
Any feedback from other skippers would be much appreciated.