Messages

Never used mainsail.  8.4oz dacron with 4 partial battens and one reef point. 40ft 41/2 n. actual luff length.  Best offer.

Nick:  I have a 1993 c34 with air (new this year) and works perfect!  The boat is in very good condition.  Are you still looking?  Mike

Paul:  Nice explanation.  Thank you.  I assume the deck is cored at the attachment points of the handrails?  Mine do not leak and if no plywood core I'll wait till fall to pull them.  Thanks

First and foremost, a huge thanks to all who contribute to the 34 site.  I have avoided many problems, fixed problems, and made many important upgrades to my 34 thanks to those that are so knowledgeable and willing to pass on their valuable knowledge.  On to the autohelm:  for the last year my st4000-1993 would not correct to starboard when on a tack.  Finally stumbled across Dan from Colorado on our 34 site, sent the head in and in a week it was back and it works!  He said a transistor was bad so he put in 4 new ones with more power all for $75!!!  What a great and honest person to do business with.  He said he only works on Raymaine autohelms.  Thanks again to everyones input.

Thanks Roc.  I'll give them a call tomorrowl   Thanks for your input.  Mike

Ken:  The wind did start to act up first, that is I could never adjust the wind instrument to track correctly to the apparent wind.  Last summer I would get it set on one tack and then tack and it would be off.  This is all without the autopilot en.  How the wind got screwed up is beyond me.  I'm still on the hard now and adjusted the wind again today.  Each time I turn on the wind it is out of wack.  I think your possibly right about an internal logic cause.  If it is out of sink then the autopilot will not respond to changes in the boats course. When the autopilot use to work I could only set it to a compass setting.  Thanks for your input.   

The ST4000 autohelm (1993) tacks corrects only to port.  Switched wire connections on drive motor and then will tack to starboard. Has anyone ever had this problem and is there a fix?  Thanks to all for all the help and valuable info. over the past years.

2yrs ago I made a two piece, to H20 line, winter cover of Odessey III (Ron's suggestion) and a PVC frame all for $400.  Looks very similar to Momentum's.  Took and couple of months of evenings to sew and one day for the frame construction.

STU:  Thanks again for your input.  Yesthe Seaward harness is now up to $50 and is stated as being 16'.  I contemplated whether to make my own or purchase theirs.  I haven't had time to take apart and inspect the old conectors and wiring to see exactly where the short is.  Interestingly enough with the key off and battery switch on if you push the start button (stater is removed) the alarm will sound.  We'll see.  Thanks again.

Thanks Ron and Ken for your input.  It certainly makes a lot of sense to reduce the number of conections in a circuit.  I can't begin to tell you all of you how much this forum has helped me since I purchased the boat 3yrs ago.  Last year I finally got around to the glow plug upgrade and separate start battery upgrade,  both of which work great.  Thanks again for your valuable input.   

 Stu and Tony:  Thank you for your replies.  And yes I have read the harness upgrade several times over the past 2years, got the terminal strips from Seaward and never got around to doing the upgrade!!   Fortunately their was no fire.  Called Seaward yesterday and their sending a 16' harness.  Thanks again for your help.  Mike

The starter suddenly engaged at 2000rpms.  I have read a few past posts but no one identified the exact cause.  When the key is off and the main DC switch is on there is 13volts at the solenoid??  1993 M35-4cylinder Univ. 1000hrs--no new wiring harness yet. Starter is now in shop to be repaired as needed--it got super hot in just 1min.   This is the first and only time it has ever happened.