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Messages - Phil Spicer

#256
Main Message Board / Re: Swim Ladder
July 20, 2009, 05:56:19 AM
Handrails
#257
Main Message Board / Re: Swim Ladder
July 10, 2009, 06:05:27 AM
Wrong resolution , pictures wont post....Will shoot more & try again
#258
Main Message Board / Re: Swim Ladder
July 10, 2009, 06:00:15 AM
  Susan & john:
I made the handrails from "plastic lumber." It can be found at plastic lumber.com. Factory location (Akron,Oh.) was a major reason for using this product. Saw the product at the Cleveland boat show. Another company was making swim platforms,Handrails etc. from this product so I gave it a try. Why pay for labor I can do myself.......I'm a teacher, & will allways have more time than dollars. 
Sorry about the poor light when I took the pictures.
#259
Main Message Board / Re: Swim Ladder
July 02, 2009, 02:02:43 PM
  Thank you Lance.   Stu, full upright position is just like yours, parallel with the top of the stern rail. The extra steps only get put on when we need the ladder. The step stores in the back locker to port at an angle with the bottom step resting on the propane locker. The legs point down. Steps are plastic lumber, same as the handrails on the deck......No more teak cleaner.
#260
Main Message Board / Re: Swim Ladder
July 01, 2009, 03:23:25 PM
Bent plates welded in place, pins are tied on to ladder.
#261
Main Message Board / Re: Swim Ladder
July 01, 2009, 03:20:56 PM
Bent & welded some ss plate to the ladder. Made 2 step extension with "T" & elbow fittings. Pin the ladder in place& flip it into the water. This is the step.


#262
Main Message Board / Re: Wheel removal
April 30, 2009, 07:46:28 AM
 Tom, our boats are a long way apart-2007-1988, but if Edson is still a straight shaft it should not be a big job. Wrap the nut so you don't mark it with your wrench. Use something like an old leather belt or heavy vinyl. If it won't slide or wiggle off, tap it with a small block of wood & a hammer. A little anti seize shouldn't hurt, but " use the key. " I found (on my boat ) the nut would not stay tight if only hand tight, so there is always a wrench on board large enough to fit the nut. The nut is always tight. If I ever need to remove the nut I know I have a wrench to do the job.
#263
Mark, I am going to Deep Water Marina in the morning to pull the cover. What a late start this year. Nothing but high wind,rain & cold. We had snow & sleet yesterday. Better days are coming !
#264
 Keep it until next year & try .....I have kept it for the next season. The copper may settle out & harden so shake it every month, keep it air tight. Try a smaller container so you can reduce the amount of air in the can. If some of the copper settles & hardens, the thinner may help to soften it before you paint next year.
At our marina our "chem expert" said the vc thinner is 95% alcohol, so a lot of sailors here thin with isopropyl alcohol. Seems to work. Goes farther & does not change how it works. 
I have used VC17 for 20 years. At first the can said to use acetone to thin. After interlux took over, an interlux thinner came out at about $20 a can. Most of us kept on using acetone. Now we use alcohol, per our "chem experts" advice.
The best thing about VC is the lack of builb-up. I have had my 34 for 15 years. Took off the crud the PO  had put on, did the VC tar & VC17 & have NEVER had to sand or scrape the bottom. Just paint or touch up as needed. Some people use 2 colors like blue over red. As the blue gets thin you can see the red in the thin spots & you know where to paint. The racers buff the VC with burlap so they can go faster. This or a very fine sanding will bring back the copper color of year old VC paint & you can get another year.
#265
This project has been on the back burner for several years. Thought the back stay may be in the way & make it a tight fit to sit up there. This thread has sparked new life into the project.
I was going to post the marine parts depot site for the fittings to hold the leg. (Thanks Craig) I have used them & so far I am happy with what I got from them, but nothing my life would depend on. I'm still being careful because I don't really know the true quality or source country.
As for the legs, an option would be a 1" Dia. dowel rod from the hardware or big box store. Another option would be a canvas shop. The guy that made my bimini always has some short lengths for me at no charge. When I made my dodger hand rails I got some large scraps & bent them at school.( electrical shop)  Used the electric conduit bender.....nice tool. Will use the bender again if I need a Little bend to get the leg outboard.
I have taught at a vocational high school & technical college. The teachers are usually happy to do jobs like this, welding, machine work etc. Just call them.....beats WM prices
#266
Main Message Board / Re: fuel cap Stainless
February 04, 2009, 10:15:58 AM
Just another thought. Last summer I found a site, Marinepartsdepot.com. They have deck fills for $17.95. I'm sure the parts come from over seas, but the bimini parts I got are just fine, but my life doesn't depend on these parts. For simple ss parts this site has some good deals.
#267
Main Message Board / Re: fuel cap Stainless
February 04, 2009, 09:28:21 AM
 As general maintenance I replaced my cap with ss. Got the new deck fitting to replace everything, but could not get the old fitting out of the deck. Spent most of a morning without success. Nothing would break the bond, so I returned the deck assembly and got a ss cap. So if the deck fitting is in good shape you may want to think about just replacing the cap. Check the threads, I found 2 different sizes at WM.
#268
Main Message Board / Re: New Cockpit Cushions for $150
January 28, 2009, 08:45:25 AM
Sailrite has a foam called Dry Fast. It is an open cell foam. You can pour water on it and the foam won't slow down the flow of water. Water goes right through. If you cover the cushions with phifertex, you almost have instante dry cushions. Phifertex is an open weave vinyl fabric. You can see through the fabric. We have made curtains that zip to the sides and back of the bimini to give us shade at the dock. You can see out & the breeze is not completely blocked. Also split the cushions to move & store easy, & access the port locker.  Don't have to move the person on the port side to get into the locker.
#269
Main Message Board / Re: Refer Shelves
January 14, 2009, 04:26:29 PM
I am thinking about trying wire or plastic baskets this year. May need to put some runners on the sides for support. Lifting out a basket would be better than unpacking 1/2 the cooler to get something down low.
#270
   Peter
As you come down the steps into your 34 stop & look around. Look at the open space. It's like a big family room. I haven't found anything like this in a boat this size. My wife & I really like the space. Take out the table & you really have a family room. Make a smaller table if you want to sit there to eat. Store the big table, pull it out for sleeping. A mod here & there & the boat is yours, the way you like it.
  My wife likes to read at the table so the table holds the book. The v-berth is for two things, & reading isn't on the list. If you must read, pack some pillows in the corner under the light. Take your time & get to know your 34. You will enjoy it more each year.