Messages

I posted this problem on the C36 chat line with no response, so maybe a c34 member  has a solution.
My 1994 radar has worked with no problems until a week ago  when the special 3.15 amp fuse, F401 blew. According to the manual, this fuse protects the unit from reverse polarity. Tried a normal 3.0 amp fuse and it just blows. The fuse blew while the radar had been in operation for 5 hours and went blank.

Jack F Stewart
1993 C36 #1233 "Windancer"
Port Clinton, OH

Now in the North Channel in Little Current

Mike,If you think backflow is a problem, locate the loop closer to the pump. I thought of doing this , but was able to place the top of the loop higher at the stern than next to the galley sink in my boat.
While researching this particular Rule automatic pump, one owner had a problem with the pump running continuously and eventually melting. He put the blame on the fuse being too big for the pump. If I recall,the pump came with a 2.5A fuse, I replaced it with a 1.0A fuse and gave had no problems when I switch the pump to manual operation when I want to pump out the bilge after giving the bilge its monthly Simple Green-Chlorox treatment. I have the cleanest bilge in town.
In regard to the sound of the pump every few minutes, I usually turn it off at the Marina at night because my wing keel sits on mud after the boat drops one foot.
While at anchor in the North Channel or the Bass Islands, the sound is re-assuring in I know the boat isn't filling with water with the main bilge pump float stuck.

Jack F Stewart
1993 C36 #1233 "Windancer"
Port Clinton, OH

Mike, You are correct in that this pump can be heard while sleeping.  With the three way switch panel, you can switch the pump off during the evening. I do this sometimes. I have thought about placing a delay switch in the circuit that reduces the number of cycles to one per hour. Have not found the switch yet.
With the loop located in the transon and using 1/2" tubing, I have not noted backflow when the pump shuts down. If there is back flow, it probably occurs after a period of rain when most of the water enters the bilge on my boat, usually during the week at the Marina   when I am not there. The high loop removes the requirement for a check valve or anti-siphon in the line.

Jack F Stewart
1993 C36 #1233 "Windancer"
Port Clinton, OH

Gary, I would try this, as I have done. Install a separate Rule 500gph automatic bilge pump that senses liquid every 2 minutes, shuts off or pumps it out. I have one connected to my GP23 windlass battery with the Rule Three Way lighted panel with fuse, along with a separate, 1/2 " Tygon hose to a separate new Marelon thru-hull in the stern. Put a high loop in the hose just before the thru-hull, and back-flow and other problems are eliminated.
This pump will draw down a GP24 battery less than 0.1volts for a one week period. My total cost has been less than $100, you have a drier bilge ans is activated before your main pump is activated.My system has worked flawless for the past four years, except the original pump had to be replaced after 3 years.
Regarding your dead wet cells. Put them on very low amperage charge, 5 amps untill fully recharged, then equalize them and you will do all you can do to bring them back to life.
Back in 2004 I installed four new US Battery golf cart batteries and ran them to 5+ volts  each the first week I had them, closed the charger circuit breaker with the frig on for one week. Took them back to the dealer, he slowly recharged them for a week and these batteries will start their 8th season this summer.  No sign of any capacity loss yet.
Going to buy a Victron BMV600 battery monitor this spring to get a more accurate indication of battery capacity reduction.I still can go 2 1/2 days on the hook with the batteries only dropping to 40 % capacity with the frig on max setting.

Jack F Stewart
1993 C36 #1233 "Windancer"
Port Clinton, OH

Hi, I put a Lewmar folding wheel on a few years back. My autopilot is  the ST4000. I had to make a couple of modifications to the U brackets that clamp to the wheel spokes.

First, the spokes on the folding wheel have a larger diameter, so some filing is required on the plastic bracket holders.

Second, you will have to insert two 1/8 " washers (spacers) between each U bracket and the ST4000 on the wheel. I picked up some 3/4" dia. flat neoprene  fawcett washers  at ACE hardware. Otherwise, the two pieces on the wheel that snap together keep coming apart. This happened to me at the start of my annual two month trip to the North Channel a few years back. Problem disappeared with the washer-spacers.
The only other problem I have with the new wheel is you have to constantly hand  tighten the two vinyl clamps that allow the wheel to fold.

Jack F Stewart
1993 C36 #1233 "Windancer"
Port Clinton, OH     

Stewartn
I used to use the Fram 3593a on my M35A engine, but changed three years ago to NAPA Gold 1064 or Wix 51064. after reading some comparisons between various filter brands.NAPA Gold runs about $11, double the price for a Fram, NAPA has a cheaper 1064 so whats a few more dollars to make sure you are using a heavy duty filter. I usually put 150 hours on my engine each season and change oil and filter at 100 hours and then at the end of the season.

JACK F STEWART
1993 C 36 #1233 "WINDANCER"
PORT CLINTON, OH

David, I don't know how you take the US Battery curve and come up with an expected battery life, since each boat has a different operating mode for their batteries. In my case, I installed 4 US Battery U2200 batteries in 2004. During the first month of operation these batteries were drained to zero, 11.45 volts
( charger off with the frig on during the week)
Since then, my batteries remained on charge (Truecharge 40) 24/7 while at the dock. When cruising for 8 weeks during the summer I seldom drop the batteries below 40% charge. All four batteries are still at 6.3 V when fully charged, sp gravity of the acid in all cells is the same, and I usually equalize the banks twice a year.

To say the least, I have been very happy with these batteries. Their capacity appears to be the same as when they were new, and will be starting their 7th season this year. I can go 3 days without charging the banks and keep the drawdown at 40%.

Before starting out for the Door Peninsular in late June, I will give the banks a load check at dock to check the drawdown after 24 hours under normal loads like frig on, running cabin lights, anchor lights and other normal acessories.

Jack F Stewart
1993 C36 #1233 "Windancer"
Port Clinton, OH

Good point John, when I changed the coolant on my M35A, I first drained the system by disconnecting both hoses at the hot water heater. Used a hose to flush the heater, and flush the engine. Let the system drain and refilled with 2 gallons of distilled water. Drained the distilled water after bringing the engine up to temperature and then draining the distilled water and refilling with 60/40 Prestone.

Jack F Stewart
1993 C36 #1233 "Windancer"
Port Clinton, OH

Bernd,

In some cases, the nipple comes attached to the pump. I purchased a spare from my Kubota dealer in 2004 and it came with the nipple in place, exact copy of the one from Universal. Purchased the spare after the original pump shaft froze in the middle of the Detroit River under the Ambassador Bridge. Got a tow and pump replacement in Detroit and completed my initial trip with the boat the next day to Port Clinton.

Jack F Stewart
1993 C36 #1233 "Windancer"
Port Clinton, OH

The above part numbers also fit the M35A engine, Kubota block V1200. I picked up a spare pump and gasket back in 2004 from my Kubota dealer after the original pump failed in 2003. Still have the spares. Price for the items in 2004 was $91.66 for the pump and $.87 for the gasket. The Kubota part numbers in 2004 were the same as those by TractorSmart.

Jack F Stewart
1993 C36 #1233 "Windancer"
Port Clinton, OH

Jim, My M35A with Autoprop burned .85 gph at 2000 rpm on the same trip we both made from Ashtabula to Erie, Pa on Wednesday.  . I was towing a dinghy, which kept my speed down to 6 kts. On flat water I will go 6.4 kts at 2000 rpm without the dinghy.  . At 2200 rpm, I achieve 7 kts and 7.3 kts at 2500 rpm. The sweet spot for me is 1900 rpm at 6+ kts and 0.7 gph.  When I motor sail, my fuel consumption drops tp 0.5-0.56 gph at 1500-1700 rpm.
Jack F Stewart
1993 C36 #1233 "Windancer"
Port Clinton, OH

Now at Wolverine Marina in Erie, Pa.  Leaving for Port Dover, Ca on Sunday

Hi Jim, Previous responder was correct in the temperature setting is non adjustable. My Seward temp control failed last year and I replaced it with a lower heater control unit made by GE for Lowes.I may have described its replacement on the C36 site?

In any event , you will notice a tin box cover on one side of your heater where the wires enter. Remove the box and you will find insulation and a cardboard cover. Remove these and the wires and you will find an electrical reset switch plus the temperature control. After replacing my temp control with the Lowes unit, I contacted Seward about my heater and found out they supply replacement units for both controls for about $40. I bought a set and keep them with my spares. You can purchase a new heater at Defender for $200 plus postage. Drop a line if you want additional information.

We start our Lake Erie trip on Monday with a 3 day stay at Leamington and then on to Rondo. Port Stanley, Long Point. Hope to get to Erie by early August.

Regards,
Jack F Stewart
1993 C36 #1233 "Windancer"
Port Clinton, OH

Two years back I replaced my 32" Edson wheel with a Lewmar 36"folding wheel. It is ellipical in shape and required a few minor modifications to my ST4000 autopilot bracket
First, the plastic "U" shaped brackets had to be enlarged to acomodate the slightly larger diameter spokes. Just use your dremel tool with tube sander.
Second, Go to Ace Hardware and buy some 1" dia x 1/8"  rubberfawcet washers  to fill the gap between the plastic brackets and the Autopilot hub, otherwise the hub keeps coming apart.
Mine has worked perfectly now for 2 seasons.
Also, the original Edson  retainer nut worked with no modifications.

Jack F Stewart
1993 C36#1233 "Windancer"
Port Clinton, OH

Earl,
I have the same windlass and when I went to 5/16 HT galv chain, found the original drum with 2 wraps handled the chain with no problems, provided the drum is slightly worn. Give it a try, you might be surprised .  I know I was.

Jack F Stewart
1993 C36 #1233 "Windancer"
Port Clinton, OH

Dave, The high temperature limit switch may need re-setting if temperatures have reached 170F in the heater. There is metal cover plate  under some cardboard and glass insulation on this heater. Disconnect the power and uncover the heater controls. There is a reset button on the temp. limit switch. The temp control switch might also need to be replaced. You can buy replacements for both from Seward for about $60. If the temp control switch is bad, controls water at 140F, It could be replaced with a home hot water heater control for $10 that allows you to set your own temperature. I did the latter and extended the high temp limit switch by drilling the metal cover plate and placing a plastic rod thru it, allowing the limit switch to be reset without removing the cover plate, insulation and insulation cover.
While the heater element cover is off, you will want to check the heater element resistance to insure the element has not failed. Then again, you may find it simpler to buy a new heater from Defender for $200 plus shipping if your heater is the original and 16 years old based on your hull number.

Jack F Stewart
1993 C36 #1233 "Windancer"
Port Clinton, OH