Messages

all that worry for (almost) nothing! The welder/rigger/friend, pulled all the chainplates last week, two at a time, and the supposed crack I saw was just the end of a weld. The PO must have replaced them at one time as they were in excellent condition. They were rebedded with polysulfide 3M #101. The old silicone seemed to be just laying next to the plates and stuck only to the sides of the opening. It has been raining this week and no leaks now. The drying time on #101 is 2-3 weeks befor testing at sea.
Susan

You can find them under projects page here.

Thanks David.. Plan to pull and check all. I will do the test (iodine) and if necessary call Catalina. Did you do the replacement yourself ? following the info here?  Did you see the plates after they were pulled? Were they all equally damaged or was the one an exception? (Just hope it was and I will only have to replace the one). Was the crack above deck? I am more worried about the stainless corroding inside the deck as the plates are and have been leaking below decks for who knows how long... I just purchased her in Sept/05 and the rigging is all new.

Thanks Ron, I will do the iodine test.... Has anyone with an '87 or older had to change chainplates? From what I have read here no one seems concerned with the age of the plates. As I lost a mast from chainplate failure on a Catalina 30' (rusted  through where it went through the deck), I am (a bit) paranoid about them.

I am going to pull and check the chainplates on my 1987 as there is a small crack in one.They are not listed here under parts and I could find no reference in notes. Anyone know of a source for replacements or do I need to have them made? Thank you

Ken, Hope you found the mouse (or else fed it) as it will soon start eating wires and hoses......

One difference is the transceiver costs about $1,700. and the radiotelephone costs $11,000.00. (see http://www.marinedeal.com/category_s/95.htm) The transceiver must not be able to connect to a satalite to phone, just radio waves?. My guess.......

Did they change the configuration of the head on the '88? Isn't the basic liner the same as the '87? Why would there be less room on the wall between the head door and bulkhead to cockpit? (Measures 15.6" from entry door to below sink door) Is there a line drawing showing different measurements? Is the '87 called an MKI? Which is called the MK II? When researching for purchase didn't notice much difference in configuration until the transom was opened. Where is this info on this site?
Thanks,Susan

My '87 has a door that is standard 12"x12"and gives direct access to alternator. You should be able to order one, cut 9x9 hole and install.

Noticed you haven't received a response to your query. I suggest going to the nearest Chandler and ask around. What kind of damage do you have?  West has small kits to DIY if there isn't too much damage. Good luck. Susan

You feel lonely!! Move the cursor west and check out the middle of the Pacific. There I am! ....fun site.

Question: Does the shaft have to be pulled to replace the cutlass bearing? On my C30 we could just beat it out and replace. It was recommended  by the surveyor to replace the bearing on next haul,(though he didn't state why and I wasn't there to inspect and there isn't any vibration, so far).The yard here charges $65. an hour labor, and up, is why I ask. Has Anyone replaced it without pulling shaft?
Mahalo,Susan

Okay...I did  as suggested and spent an hour in the aft lazerette. At 85 degrees with no trade winds I had no problem getting out as I must have sweat off 10#'s. I remembered a u-shaped metal thing aboard, that had no purpose that I could find, so attached it to the starboard side of wood box with one side of the crate over the u and other up against the hull. This holds all chain and rode. The anchor will go on stern pulpit with a carabier or snap hook, for emergency's only. 
Rather than a red fuel container to hold chain (good idea but ugly), I will sew a bag with a grommet in bottom for the bitter end to come out, as it is not attached to anything and will have to be put on the stern cleat before deploying.

While sitting in lazerette, I noticed the nuts were all loose and the bolts bent!! on the hinges above me. So..I am installing stainless pull-apart hinges (West item #2663995) in place of the original pot metal ones, with lock nuts.
Still sitting and looking around...noticed the hose clamps on the exhaust were rusted so will replace those also.
Really get to know your lazerettte after spending time there. Thanks for the idea and all the new projects I found to do. In case you wonder..Yes, I do sail her sometimes, but only inter-island anymore as I must board the cat, she is not a sailor.
Mahalo, Susan

Thanks for the reply and picture Stu. I have another Danforth on a bow pulpit hanger attached to chain and rode in the locker so the stern anchor doesn't have to be attached, only need permanent storage for stern rode. It sounds simple but where in the stern locker would you attach a hook? There is nothing but hull in there! I would like to secure the crate on something, away from the hoses, rudder post and autohelm, but what? Any ideas on where to fiberglass in a shelf or board to attach crate? The seas are rarely calm here so it won't say in place without securing. Aloha, Susan
PS.Mahalo for the kudos on my projects, more coming. Allegro just came from CA and is here to stay. Bring yours to Paradise!

Aloha. I  have a 25# Danforth with 200' of rode and some chain, in a plastic carton shoved into the starboard side of the stern locker.It is right now crimping a bilge hose. I just got my boat and would like ideas on securing all the rode and chain in the locker, but at the ready. Anchor I will mount on the stern pulpit. There is an autohelm on port to steering quadrant in center. Nothing else is in there, including anything to attach anything to! Please send me your solutions or ideas.
Mahalo, Susan