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You shoudn't have to dig any bungs out or destroy anything in order to remove the doors.

To remove the plexi doors, lift them straight up into the top track, they should then just move vertically enough clear to the lip of the bottom track so that the panel can be tilted out at the bottom.  If you still don't have enough clearence you can push the top shelf up a bit to gain additional space.
I hope that was what you asked in your original post.

This is really disturbing.  I've read a bunch of internet gossip about Fram filters over the years but never really paid much attention, just figured one manufacturer was as good as any other.  Grabed whatever was on the shelf.

Well not anymore.

First one I've used and it works very well even when reefing. But....the problem is keeping the line on the discharging side taut while furling or unfurling. Otherwise it dumps it all in a pile and usually then overboard.  May sound confusing but I'm sure anyone who's used one understands. Probably several options to remedy but before I start mounting hardware I want to solicit ideas. Thx

I've never seen the need but I have a friend with a 915 ContLine who has a ratcheting block tied off with a length of bungy cord.  It holds the continuous line semi taught and at the same time the ratchet keeps the line from slipping.
Does that make any sense?

I've had T105's for the last 14 yrs.  My first set were replaced after 6 yrs because I was told it was "time".  The set I have on the boat now are about 8 yrs old and are still strong.
I never remove them during the winter.  I top up with distilled water at the end of the year and recharge once a month during the winter.  No need to disconnect anything.

I'll be there on friday (knock on wood) all the way from Middle River.
A one hour trip.

Sorry Ken, your right #17 slides up and down on #16 changes the clearence between the two halves.

I guess I have a lot of friction in my set up.  Even when it is blowing I have to manually unroll the sail.  I regularly clean the lower bearings, think they are just getting old and tired.  There will always be slack in the unpulled line. If it is fouling at the furling drum, check and make sure that the last stanchion mounted guide is aligned correctly.  Fouling at the first block out of the cockpit, perhaps stand farther away from the block so there is less slack between the pulling line and the feeding line.  Or if you have a second set of hands, ask them to provide some "drag" on the feed line to lessen the slack.  I think it would make the system too cumbersome, but you could mount a pair of rope clutches pointed in opposite directions.  Open the clutch on the line you are pulling, the friction provided by the closed clutch on the other line should keep the slack at a minimum.

Had a similiar hard turning condition and discovered the upper drum had slid down onto the lower drum causing alot of friction.  the cinch bolt on the upper drum needs to be loosened and pulled up slightly. Mine ran like new after the adjustment.

Unfortunatly I'm nowhere near Mark, if I were, I'd buy him a beer for you.

Good on you Mark.

WOW
Can't beat that.
Nice people here.

Either way, once you decide, please stop back and tell us what you decided on and your reasons.

I'm sure we all would love to know.

Wanted to thank everyone for the help.
I decided on NER VPC 10mm, and ordered it from Defender. (I don't mind paying a bit more to one of the few WM competitors and less to Gov in sales tax)
I'm hoping the braided core makes it easier to splice than the sta set x
Stu, the link to the other thread with its detailed pictures and info was excellent.

Catalina0825, you're obviously not new to this board, so why would you go through the effort to register a new profile just to make a stupid comment?
Geez, I wish I had more free time.

I need to replace my main and jib halyards and I don't have a clue as to what I should buy.
We use the 34 for cruising the Chesapeake and don't do any racing.
Any help and recommendations as to which type I should get would be appreciated.

Is it the same as this one?

http://www.boatersland.com/lew6671011108-138.html

You should have this done by a yard that knows what it's doing.
If their good, they'll explain it to you.

We live just west of Philly and have kept boats in many parts of the Jersey shore, the Delaware River and the Chesapeake Bay.
We loved the Jersey shore but found their were very few destinations to sail too, so even though we had a great time, outings often didn't involve the boat and sailing.  The Delaware River was ok only because at the time, we were limited to very short outings at night, but there was seldom any wind. 
The northern Chesapeake Bay is excellent but you might be better off driving an extra half to one hour further south on either the eastern or western shore which opens up many more locals which offer more open/deeper waters for anchoring and cruising with many more destinations.

A few years back we decided to buy a second home which would make boating more convenient during the summer, after a bunch of searching/research we settled on the Middle river of the Chesapeake Bay. 1-3/4 hrs drive from Philly and enough stuff within a weekend sail to keep us busy for a long, long time.