Messages

Bob : Not too sure what that common + Blue Seas post costs, but the extension I was talking about is about $2.98? and screws on to the existing starter solenoid threads - 5/16" I believe. 

I like this idea too, but I like even better the idea of getting that's rat's nest of wires away from being buried by the engine.  As little as $6.99 at Defender.  $10.99 at Defender for the 5/16th stud that Ron suggests (http://www.defender.com/category.jsp?path=-1|328|49758|112306&id=299264).  You'll be happy you did it this way if you ever have to add a connection or change the starter.   

Another solution is to get a terminal extension that you can screw on the existing terminal.  Look for one at a battery store. 

Bob, here's an alternative to what Stu is talking about that achieves the same thing in an easier space to work in: a Blue Sea distribution post.  You can find them at WM (www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/producte/10001/-1/10001/10684/377%20710%201635/0/High%20Amp%20Distribution/Primary%20Search/mode%20matchallpartial/0/0?N=377%20710%201635&Ne=0&Ntt=High%20Amp%20Distribution&Ntx=mode%20matchallpartial&page=CategoryDisplayLevel1&isLTokenURL=true&storeNum=5002&subdeptNum=9&classNum=119).  You can mount this on the back bulkhead in the engine compartment, either inside the compartment or on the other side facing into the aft berth and under it.  Connect one good, chunky cable from the starter to this (I would use at least a 2/0, but I went with 4/0 myself) and connect everything else to the post.  You'll have infinite (not really) options that way, and it's a much easier space to work in. 

If you don't get an answer here, either call Kent at CY, who knows everything, or call Cruising Concepts.  CC makes replacements lenses for the deadlights and use the same adhesive material that CY uses, so maybe the owner (I get the feeling that it's a one-man operation, and he'll answer the phone if he's not packing boxes or manufacturing stuff) knows how to remove what he sells. 

Presumably you're going to buy a new vang from Garhauer, right?  If so, call Guido and ask him for advice; he really knows best.  While you're at it, as him about whether you can get away with the traveler your friend is willing to sell you.  Ask him about the downside, if any.  They're honest people; he'll give you straight talk.  I wish I could tell you which one I upgraded to (on Guido's advice), but it was a few years ago, and I really don't know the model number.  Sorry.

Best way to tell if it's the harness terminal or the system connection is to switch the right and left speaker connections at the receiver.  If the problem now happens with the left speaker, then it's the receiver end; if it continues to happen with the right speaker, it's the harness, and you need a new terminal or possibly there's a short in the cabling.  You can't usually tell if the terminal is okay simply by visually inspecting it unless it's a really simple, open terminal. 

Have you been able to determine if the problem is in the harness terminal or inside the receiver?  If the latter, you probably need to bring the receiver to an electronics repair shop (if one still exists).  If the former, you need a new terminal. 

You'll find the proper replacement options here on the Knowledge wiki: [wiki]Replacement Filters, Belts, and Lubricants[/wiki].

Catalina Direct appears to carry the channel as well as the vinyl on its site (www.catalinadirect.com).

Five year old thread?   My math says seven years. 

You're right!  I was counting from the last post.  I wonder if this is a record? 

But they add insertion loss and the connection point at the mast base will become the weak point in the system.   It's a no brainer.

Maybe for you, but I didn't think of it when I installed a new antenna and ran a new cable down the mast last year....

Might as well run that straight back to the radio and ditch the connectors in the bilge.

Interesting... what will you do if you ever want to pull the mast?  Just cut it at that point and add connectors later?  Really smart idea.  Wish you had said this a year ago.   

Major kudos, Craig, in finding and reviving a nearly five year-old thread!  And came just at the right time, a week before my boat launches for the spring.  thanks.

I'm still pluggin' for the cheap toggle switch.  Put it somewhere you can see and remember to use, and your reserve bank charging issues will simply disappear.

FWIW, I believe that Stu owns the patent to the toggle switch, which may be why his is so strongly promoting it 

Seriously, Dave, these products seem to deliver <0.6 amps in float stage, but I don't know if that's little enough to qualify as giving the battery a rest per Stu's suggestion.  You may want to combine the trickle charger idea with a toggle switch (Stu, I'm trying to earn you that commission) so that when you do let give the battery a float charge, you only do so for a few days or a week and then let it rest for a few weeks. 

It's kind of like dealing with a medical bill... who to call... the insurance
company or the doctor? ;\)

Your lawyer.

I spoke with the battery manufacturer and they told me that the TC20 wasn't putting out enough voltage during the charging cycle (presumably during the absorption phase) and was putting out too much during the trickle charge.

How did the battery manufacturer know?