Topics

Although I have not finished troubleshooting, I think my shore power breaker (the one by the shore power cord outlet) needs replacement.
The lights on the breaker have not worked in the 15 years I have owned the boat, and now I need to fiddle around with the switch in order to get the green shore power light to illuminate on the main panel.

My question is what folks have used for a replacement.     

JD has this one:  https://pro.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=11354

and Catalina Direct has this one:  //https://www.catalinadirect.com/shop-by-boat/catalina-38/electrical/breakers-switches/electrical-panel-transom-master-breaker/?SearchResults=1

Thanks in advance

Has anyone successfully used vinyl striping to re-do their boot stripes?   If so how difficult was it to apply , especially the wide blue striping.  And how has it held up?
I am looking for an alternative to repainting the stripes.

Thanks

As we enjoy our Keurig coffee at home, I have finally found a Keurig machine that works on the boat.  We have a 1500 watt inverter that could not handle the power required by the first model we bought, as it required close to that amount of power.  I found that the K130 (or B130) model use only 700 watts. Both are the single cup machines you commonly see in hotel rooms. I picked mine up on Ebay for a fraction of list price.  It makes a cup of coffee in a couple of minutes.

I finally got around to moving the holding tank vent hose to a thru hull fitting, installed between the rub rail and the stripe.

I have removed the stanchion and sawed off the vent tube flush with the base.  Now I need to patch the hole in the deck, so I can reinstall the stanchion.

What would be the recommendations for filling/patching the hole?  I surveyed this site and found one who said they glassed it, someone else mentioned marine tex, and others were not specific for what they used.   

Thanks in advance

I have an m25xp and the standard 3 blade fixed prop.   I don't have any particular problem with vibration or performance with the prop.   However I was wondering whether it is worth having the prop reconditioned as it is 26 years old.   I don't see any noticeable deformity of the prop blades or any significant dings or worn areas.  In searching thru the message board and wiki, I don't find a lot of discussion on the topic.  So those who have had their props reconditioned, please let me  know what your experience; was there a noticeable reduction in vibration or increase in performance?

Thanks

I have searched the site for this but have not found good results. I am refinishing the teak trim around the head countertop and am trying to find a wood stain that will match the rest of the interior trim.  I see some posts that Minwax red oak matches the Mk1 interior but I need a stain that matches the interior of my MK 1.5.

Thanks!

I have unsuccessfully searched for some replacement planet gears for the gearbox in my autohelm 4000.   If anyone knows of a source or has an old unit they are willing to part out, please let me know.   

I noticed that my ST60 display was not reading anything for speed and the direction needle was pegged at 12 oclock.  Looking with binoculars, I can see that the wind vane transducer has rotated such that the anemometer and windvane shafts are horizontal, rather than vertical.

Without yet going aloft, I am wondering what could have caused this?  Could the hold down screws for the the connector base have sheered off ? Could a large bird alighting on the windvane have caused this?  Could the yard have caused this when they launched the boat?

is it possible that the connector could have loosened and allowed the windvane shaft to rotate?  That seems not likely.

Has anyone else run into this?

I checked the manual and Catalina specifies 5/16 x 60 feet for traveler lines - seems a bit thin...just wondering if folks use 3/8 line for this purpose.  They also specify 3/8 for halyards, and I know many folks including myself upgrade that to 7/16

Thanks,

My windlass foot switch recently failed. I purchased what looked like a perfect Maxwell replacement (only to find it requires the hole thru  the deck to be about a half inch larger in diameter). Whatever.

I noticed that the Maxwell package had a note that the switch should be used with a relay it is used for a one way windlass, which is what I have.

I have seen that newer C34's have a windlass relay.  Would anyone be able to tell me the specific relay that is used?

Thanks.

My engine temperature gauge normally reads about 120 degrees.  I changed the thermostat (160 degrees) and there was no change in the indicated temperature. So I am assuming either the gauge or the sensor needs to be replaced. 
Is there a way of determining which one to replace except by trial and error? Fore example, if I know what the resistance of the sensor should be at ambient or 160 degrees I could determine if the sensor was off.

Thanks

Roland

 I noticed one of the hold down bolts on the bow pulpit foot (port side, the aft most foot)  was loose.   I assumed that the bolt end and nut was accessible in the vee berth by removing the celing panel outboard of the teak trim...but after removing that panel, it looks lke the bolts are hidden by the wooden block that the ceiling panel screws are attached to?

Do these machine screws go into some sort of threaded connector in the wooden block?
Perhaps the loose screw I have is  just too shart to reach it?

Sorry if this has been posted before, but as we are all aware, the forum search function  is still OOS.

When I try to do a seach in the forum, I get this error message:

2: pspell_new() [<a href='function.pspell-new'>function.pspell-new</a>]: PSPELL couldn't open the dictionary. reason: No word lists can be found for the language "en".
File: /home/c34org5/public_html/bbs/Sources/Search.php
Line: 700

Anyone else seeing this today?

I recently ordered a new Main, to be built with the Dutchman flaking system components.

I currently have the OEM topping lift so I need to change that to accomodate the Dutchman.

In the Dutchman documentation, they list System A which uses the Halyard type topping lift, and System B which uses a continuous toppping lift line.

System A looks to be the easiest to set up and probably not require a trip up the mast.  For System B, is there a way to use the current masthead sheeve or does it require a new block to be installed on the masthead?

What I would like to know is the advantages and disadvantages of each system and which system folks have used?

Thanks

Roland Gendreau
s/v Gratitude #1183

Port and starboard vinyl cushions, good condition, used on my 1991 C34.  Shipping costs might be high so would prefer to have someone pick them up from us. We are in Bristol RI.  $50.

rgendreau1@cox.net
Roland Gendreau
Gratitude #1183

After reading a number of posts concerning the use of Kubota D950 parts for the M25XP, I headed to the local Kubota dealer to pick up a valve cover gasket.  I was surprised when the gasket didn't fit.   I brought the valve cover with me back to the dealer and confirmed the gasket he had given me matched the part number; he also took another one out of inventory just to be sure and it was also too large. (The kubota gasket is at least an inch too long to fit in the groove around the cover).

It isn't a big deal (although the price is double) as I will order the gasket from the Universal dealer.

But I wonder if anyone else has run into situations where Kubota parts didn't fit?

Roland Gendreau
Gratitude #1183

Has anyone repainted their boot stripes using Interlux Brightside and if so, what shade did they use to match the factory color? 

From the color chart here:

http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/images/Multi/Interlux/large/64s.jpg

It would seem either the Largo or Ocean Blue would be the right color but not being at the boat, I can't determine which to buy.

Thanks

Roland Gendreau
Gratitude #1183

I've had 2 issues that have prevented me from buying a Honda generator- one is that the EU2000 will not fit in the cockpit port side locker in my 1992 model C34, the other is the price is steep. 

Harbor Freight now has a 1600 watt unt for $299 that is 14.5 inches high, which would fit in the port side locker.

The ad is here: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=97079

The manual for it is here: http://www.harborfreight.com/manuals/97000-97999/97079.pdf

The ad says it is a Greyhound, and the manual says Chicago Electric. I am pretty sure it is a Chinese knockoff, but the price and packaging hit the mark.

With a 1600 watt output, it is just enough to power the water heater in theory.

Let me know your thoughts.

Roland Gendreau
Gratitude #1183

Lots of articles and projects have been written about modifying or replacing the salon table with one that is easier to get in and around.

After reviewing many of those, I decided to try my hand at a solution.

The fleet admiral's required that the table remain large enough so that 4 could comfortably dine without the diners' plates being to close.

We never use our salon table as a bed, so the new table did not have to function in that way.  I marked up the existing table and brought it to my home workshop. From the markups, I made a template of the new table out of some 1/4inch plywood; the admiral brought out some dining plates and arranged them on the template to make sure it met her requirements.

I brought the template back to the boat and confirmed that the reduced size did provide improved access.

For material, I purchased a 24x48 piece of 1 inch thick butcher block material at Ikea. Cost: $49.

I didn't have access to a band saw, so I used a jig saw to cut the table to the dimensions of the template.  We never liked the fiddles on the old table and never use the table underway so I used a round over router bit on the table edge.

So attached is a photo of the table after sanding, awaiting finishing, and  laying on top of the original table, so you can see the difference in size. Notice how the flared out corners are quite reduced in size.  This will make the table much easier to get in and around.

I'll post another photo after it is finished and installed.  I haven't decided on the stain and finish as yet.

Roland Gendreau
Gratitude #1183

search link [saloon table]

My 1992 has the Lewmar trapezoidal hatch with the rollstop hinges. A couple of years ago, I installed a repair kit for the hinges because the hatch would not remain in an open position.

The kit worked for a while and now the hinges are almost as bad as they were prior to the repair kit. The hatch will not remain open.

Has anyone else had this experience and is there any alternative? I am reluctant to purchase another $50 hinge repair kit if this is going to happen again.

Roland Gendreau
Gratitude #1183

Does anyone out there have a Strut Pro cutlass bearing tool they would be willing to loan?

I would gladly pay shipping and a reasonable loaner fee.

Thanks,

Roland

Gratitude #1183
Bristol, RI

I noticed today that the forward, port side engine mounting bracket on my 1991 C34 has broken.  This is the steel bracket that bolts to the block and extends over to the engine mount.   It sheered off just ouside of where there is a gusset reinforcement.  This is the universal m25xp engine I believe.

Has anyone else run into this ? Where is a good source for a replacement?

Thanks

Roland Gendreau
Gratittude #1183

A tip to those considering purchasing a new holding tank.

The price I got for a new holding tank for my 91 C34 (B179 tank)  from Catalina Yachts was about  50% of that listed on the Ronco Plastics price list.

Hard to believe, but true!

Roland Gendreau
S/V Gratitude

I have gotten a few quotations for a bimini for my 1992 C34

One of the quotes I got was from The Canvas Store (www.thecanvasstore.com). They claim to have the exact dimenstions of most producttion boats and the design looks pretty much what I have in mind.  The pricing is pretty attractive also.  Installation looks pretty straight forward so I am not afraid to buy it and install it myself.

Has anyone out there used them? Any comments on fit,  finish and general workmanship?

Are there any other vendors out there that sell mail order that you might recommend?

Thanks

Roland Gendreau
Gratitude #1138

I need to touch up the interior varnish particularly in the head of my 1992 C34.  I'd like to use something quick drying and compatible with the factory finish.

In searching the archives, there is a reference to a water based Oxford satin varnish used on Mark II's. Is this also what was used on my 1992?

http://www.c34.org/phpbb/viewtopic.php?t=897&highlight=oxford

Thanks in advance

Roland
Gratitude #1183

On my 1992, the light within the propane panel switch does not illuminate when the switch is on. I assume the bulb is blown. It appears I can get a new switch from Seaward but are there any other vendors out there? Anyone know a compatible replacement ?  I'd like to find a local source.

Thanks
Roland Gendreau
Gratitude #1183

Can anyone point me to the instructions for replacing the furler line on a Schaefer 2000 roller furler?  Also, I'd like to do what ever other maintenance is recommended for this unit while my mast is down so if there is a maintenance manual out there, I'd sure like a copy.

Thanks in advance

Roland Gendreau
Gratitude #1183

Both of the aft cabin (cockpit) windows on my 1992 are seeping rainwater.

When I removed one of them, I found there is factory applied RTV type sealant around the external perimeter. Does this need to be removed and reapplied?

What is the correct way to re-seal them? What sealant should be used?

Thanks in advance

Roland Gendreau
Gratitude #1183

The AB refrigeration system on our 1992 is mounted in the starboard lazarette has sustained mortal amounts of corrosion so it is inoperative and needs to be replaced.   Before I install a new system (AB or Isotherm or Sea Frost) in the same location, I'd like to know if others out there with the open transom models have either found a way to prevent units mounted in that location from deteriorating from corrosion damage, or mounted somewhere else where it didn't take up valuable storage space or had thermal issues.

By the way, an advantage of the Sea Frost unit is that it does have some nice packaging that should shield it from exposure to rain/seawater

Roland Gendreau
Gratitude #1183

Anyone have any suggestions for how to straighten bent stanchions?  I've removed them from the boat and would like to try to straighten them before throwing in the towel and ordering 2 new ones from Catalina Direct.  One of them has the holding tank vent and has a good 15-20 degree bend - the other one is bent slightly less.

Thanks

Roland Gendreau
Gratitude #1183

The plastic shades on the light fixtures in our aft cabin and vee berth are discolored and/or cracked and look frankly awful

Are replacement shades available ?

Alternatively, are there 'reasonably' priced alternatives to these fixtures?

Roland Gendreau
Gratitude #1183
1992 C34

I want to buy a couple of cleats for the genoa track.  What size track does the 1992 C34 have?

Thanks

Roland Gendreau
Gratitude #1183

While on the topic of plumbing, I also need a replacement shower head for the cockpit shower.

Anyone have a source and part number for that?

Thanks

Roland Gendreau
Gratitude #1183

On our new C34, I noticed the head pullout shower wand does not have any shutoff. On our C30, the shower wand had a shutoff so that after you wet down with the water adjusted to the right temperature, you could halt the flow while soaping up, then turn it on again when ready to rinse, without having to fuss with the hot/cold mix.

Is such a shower wand shut off available for the Grohe faucet in the C34?

A web search for it turned up nothing.

Thanks

Roland Gendreau
Gratitude #1183

What do you use for a helm seat on the open transom models?  When seated at the wheel of my new 1992, I will need a boost of a good 4-6 inches to see through the dodger.  

Is this something available through Catalina Direct?

Thanks

Roland Gendreau
Gratitude, #1083

We will be taking delivery of our 1992 C34 next week and it will be stored up here in MA this winter with the mast down. Future winters, it will be store mast up and I will plan to shrink wrap her.

For this winter with the mast down, I would like to cover her with a tarp of something primarily to protect the nice bright work which was recently re-done.

When I owned a C30, I constructed a cover frame out of PVC piping, with the uprights clamped to the stanchions.

Is this an appropriate way to build a cover support frame on the C34? Does anyone have any cover support plans they can point me to?

Thanks in advance

Roland Gendreau
"Gratitude" #1083

We're looking to buy a C34 and looked at one today that was generally in good shape equipped well and in the right price range.  It is a 1987 fin keel.

However, one issue has us concerned; in the bilge, where there are beams going athwartships, there were cracks in the fiberglass where each beam was connected to the hull. It looked to me perhaps to be the result of a hard grounding.

Has anyone else seen this, any idea what it might take to fix it?  should we just keep shopping?

I have some pictures of the cracks but dont know how I can post them in this forum

Thanks

Roland Gendreau