Messages

Towards the end of sailing season, I no longer heard the clicking sound that the fuel pump makes, which makes me believe that it has or will shortly, fail. In my 16 years of owner ship, I have not changed the pump. I read that a Facet pump was original, but I've seen a NAPA replacement mentioned. Looking for the replacement pump #  for the M25 engine. Thanks....Jeff

Since owning Sedona Sunset,1986,  for 16 seasons now, I have replaced the traveler, boom blocks, all clutches, new blocks for rope vang, deck blocks, from Garhauer., the only item I have not replaced is to a rigid vang, I'm saving that for the next guy.  At the time, all suggested building a relationship Guido as he knows all about the older boats with great knowledge of the up grades. I'll agree with Stu, that by know, all employees at Garhauer all all quite proficient in their knowledge of the Catalina boats, but, I will maintain, that owners of the original C34's MK1's, if an upgrade is needed, ask for Guido, he's the guru.

wingman,  several years ago I bought a new 6:1 traveler from Garhauer, which came with 5/16" rope. I had it set up to lead rope to each side, much easier for crew to man each side. If you want, go to 3/8" line, but as all have stated, 7/16" is too big. The new traveler made a huge improvement in ease of use. I sent to old bar to Guido to use a template so all configured correctly. FWIW....Jeff

Becki,

on the top side, I finished with 3 coats of varnish and 5 coats of poly. Still looks new after 14 years.

Becki,

When I had the new sole made for my 1986 C34, I had the teak/holly ply, 2 4X8, sheets sent to a lumber yard and I brought the old pieces to the yard for the master millwright to use as the template, so all lines match up. There is a multi step procedure to finish the wood, most important to seal bottom and sides, then top. If you need any advice, contact me.  Good luck.

Does sound like you need a new impeller. On my M25, I installed a 3 way ball valve on to the raw water intake. In the boating season, sea water pulled thru, when winterizing, I close that ball valve, install a hose to the new opening and put into a 5 gal bucket of fresh water and run engine for about 15 minutes, then shut off. Change oil, filter and fuel filter. Start engine again and run maybe 5 minutes, then when bucket almost empty, add 2 gal of engine pink stuff and run till all gone, shut off. This has worked for me for the past 16 seasons, no problems in spring.  Easy.

Geoff,  if there is just a small film forming on the bottom of the filter, leave it alone, change next season, but keep  a close eye on things. Check what Ron mentioned as to the area on the engine that the filter seats on. Even if there was a pin hole in the filter, it would be weeping more than just a film. I think its coming from the gasket, cheap enough just to remove and replace the filter. BTW, not implying at all that you are a newbe at filter changes, just looking at the obvious causes first. Good luck.

Geoff,  If you just hand tightened the oil filter from the start, you might want to put a filter wrench on it and just snug it up a bit, not too tight, just a little turn. Also, before installing the filter, did you put a little oil on the o-ring? If the filter was defective, it would be spewing oil. Filters are cheap, so if you need, replace it, lube the o-ring, hand tighten, then just a little snug with filter strap or wrench. I used to rep Fram and Baldwin filters, I use Baldwin now.

I keep a Schumacher  SJ1332 1200 portable power pack on board at all times.  1200 peak amps, no problem starting diesels, a/c, d/c, usb for charging, air compressor and attached  battery cables. Holds a charge for a long time, built in % of charge left read out, and small work light. I bought the 12V charging cable if I need to top off while under way. I used to have a jump pack from Harbor Frt, but the Schumacher blows it away. Check it out on Amazon, I bought for around $125-. I bought one and had it delivered to my folks when they lived in Fl., that way if power went out, my mother could still make her coffee, and keep a light and radio plugged in.

As a final note, I have one of the techs from H&H coming to boat when hauled to lap fit the prop to shaft. That way I know it will be professionally done and I will not have to worry about any mishaps. The directions are straight forward, but it's worth having it done by one that does it for a living.  Once installed,  I'll repost the outcome.  Happy sailing...Jeff

Thanks Bill, I printed out the instructions, got the prussin blue and valve grinding compound, hopefully will short haul boat next wed or thur, expecting much rain for next several days.

Tim,  make sure you read what Noah posted about lap fitting prop to shaft, I had no idea, but now I do.

Noah,  I just ordered a tube of prussien blue and valve grinding compound to bring to boat yard for lap fitting prop to shaft.  Thanks again for the info. With out this procedure, shaft could break and possible loss of new, very expensive prop.

Noah, thanks for that. I just looked on line and got a 9  step procedure for lap fitting. I did not know of this. I printed out the instructions and will bring to boat yard and let tech read about how to lap fit, hopefully he has done this before, if not, he will learn something new. Of course, I will ask for a tech who is experienced in prop R&R.  Thanks again...Jeff

Thank you for that, I'll look into the proceedure.