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One of the things I will miss the most (besides my beloved Voyager) is the helpfulness and body of experience from the members here.  I find no such comparable group in the trawler world.  If a gap on a Catalina existed similar to picture, where water was wicking down the edge of a door and getting inside the boat, what would one use to fill that void?  (the water was enough to discolor the inside, but I'd like to seal it after drying it thoroughly before tending to the finish inside.)

I got to attend the survey on Voyager.  I sure wish the survey on the trawler was as positive as Voyager.  I am still mourning her sale.

I posted this on my Facebook page today: " I said a sad goodbye to a very dear friend yesterday.  She and I were very close, and traveled together nearly 1500 days at sea in the last 21 years, sailing over 20,000 miles in both the Atlantic and Pacific oceans.  She took us to hundreds of tropical islands and well as remote anchorages in Canada and allowed us to see amazing sunsets, and even brought us safely through a hurricane and quite a few tropical storms.
I hope her new owners, John Martinek and Kelly Martinek, have as many years of enjoyment and memories as she brought us.
If this new chapter in our lives bring us half as much joy, I would be pleasantly surprised."             
Seven years ago we met a nice couple at Spencer Spit who invited us aboard their Helmsman 38, Honu.  The next year, the first mate developed medical issues that ended their boating life, and the broker contacted us.  We had been on Voyager replacing the hot water heater  (SPECIAL THANKS TO JACK H. FOR HIS HELP ON THAT JOB!).  The first mate and I talked about it on the 6 hour drive home after viewing Honu, but decided we still had more sailing years ahead of us.  Last summer we saw the boat at Friday Harbor and chatted with the owners that bought her when we didn't.  They said they were thinking of giving up boating, so we gave them our number.  Long story short, they called two weeks ago with a decent offer, we listed Voyager on Craig's list and had many inquires, including three full cash offers.  The first one backed out after he couldn't find moorage, and the 2nd in line agreed to purchase, and we signed away the title late Thursday.

It is hard to say goodbye to such a great boat, and I hope my grieving doesn't last too long.  I would love to thank   all of the many who have helped me learn and care for my boat over the last 21 years.  And Stu, especially, who helped me evaluate my boat when it was purchased and throughout the years.

Hi All,
Well, another year in the log book.  Since Canada was closed we again only went out for 6 weeks, and find we're enjoying staying put longer, and this year the weather was downright amazingly dry in the PNW.  At any rate, laying up Voyager on the hard.  First is fresh oil change and filter.   I'm not sure who I heard it from from 4 or 5 years ago someone suggested running a mix of fresh water with some SALT AWAY before I do the final step of running a gallon of RV Antifreeze through the engine.  Anyone else doing this in a northern climate area?  The reason I ask is my yard is now clamping down on any owner work, forbidding just about everything, from changing your own zinc to even putting cleaner wax on the boot stripe!  When I run the Salt Away, it leaves a bit of foam on the ground that takes a while to dissipate , so next year not even sure I can barely get away with running the engine after layup with the bit of RV AntiFreeze.  so, is the Salt away even necessary and or helpful?  I can do my annual Pencil zinc while in the water by just closing the through hull and draining out the water from the heat exchanger, so think I can at least do that myself before coming in.  Won't have a choice on the shaft zinc and will have to pay the hourly rate plus their zinc I'm sure.  I also run RV Antifreeze through the fresh water system, as well as putting a little in the head.  On spring commissioning I collect as much as the pump will deliver to reuse, mixing old with new, since it's occasionally freezing, but not like super cold in many areas.  I also disconnect the negative battery cables and secure.  I found if I leave the battery charger on, even though it's only a trickle, I'd need to drive 350 miles 2 or 3 times a year to check the fluid level, and even then, it was still decreasing the years I get out of the batteries. (I replaced the current Trojan T 105's in 2016 and even this year all cells tested 13 with the hydrometer and can go over 3 1/2 days before I am down 80 amp hours (with plenty of ice, and icy cold beer and frozen meats).  Everything else gets washed, cleaned, waxed, checked and accessible electrical connections sprayed with Boshield.  One thing I did stop doing was filling the transmission all the way to the top.  Usually we're in storage 10 months one on board discussion talked about doing that when stored for a full year.  The transmission is never a problem, running well, lubricated, and rarely needs a drop of fluid to stay full.  This year running the motor a total of 93 hours and every week checked it and always full.  last year needed a tea spoon.  am I missing anything

One ounce is worth a pound of cure.  Years ago used jb weld on underside of sink.  This year noticed corrosion on other side.  Not leaking but did now what I should have done and cleaned from underside.  Several rust spots.  Anyone done that job?  Looks like getting it out would require removal of entire galley top (corion).  Any ideas where to start if that is needed?

at the end of last year noticed a tiny bit of weeping on my Obendorfer water pump- barely a drop in several hours of motoring.  last replaced in 2010.  Saw a good price on Parts and Pumps on line $238 but have not called to check on shipping time frame and if they have a gasket available. https://www.pumpsandpartsonline.com/shop/oberdorfer-pumps/rubber-impeller/rubberimpellerpumps/N202M-15

but it says for engine model M30 and M 50, but I believe my model is M35 on my 1997 Universal Westerbeke.  I am sure of the model number on the pump I replaced in 2010.  and I have yet to contact any local shops in Anacortes for their price and availability.  Thought I'd see if any of you have ordered recently, and your details and buying experience.

on another site someone was asking that question.  I refinished mine on the port side, but I really am not sure of what the wood is.  maybe a cedar?

I looked at a post a while back using a turnbuckle from Ace to grind down the ends and made a belt tensioner.  would love to re read that post and get the part number but my searches are coming up empty.  My computer search skills are apparently low.  I thought it was posted in critical upgrades- nada that I can find though I see a reference to something from msc direct.  anyone remember what that is?  had a squeal at start up today briefly and would really like to stay ahead of the belt.  and does anyone know the belt number the for Universal Westerbeke M 35 for the Mark 2 1997 model?

Rarely have internet but a quick question re: charging rates per battery bank.  Had an unusual battery bank changing rate we didn't notice until we docked today.  Normally the batteries after a few hours of motoring are roughly charging at the same rate.  We have trojan T105's in combination yielding about 210 amps per battery bank.  today, at start up, both batteries were at 12.45 volts, and the link 20 says amp hours were -33.3 and .35.9 after two days on the hook.  after 2 1/2 hours of motoring, we pulled in to the dock and I looked at the link 20 before hooking up to power and # 1 was showing -14.6 amps and # 2 was full, 00.    usually they charge together and close to the same rate, within an amp hour or two.  We have a combiner which shows a red light when it's on, and now charged the batteries and #1 is full after 1/2 hour and they are within 3 amp hours after an hour and a half.

The last time we motored 4 hours, both banks were blinking full at the same time.  I checked the batteries.  all the cells are 12.75 or above, checked the nuts on everything at the battery box and all tight.  is there anything else to check?  I know I could just watch it the next time we motor and monitor the amps being charged at the link.   maybe it's a non issue, but just found it unusual.  any ideas appreciated. 

A mechanic came aboard to look at one thing, but also poked around a bit (I'm sure that will cost extra), Said something was loose, and when checking near the top of the riser, there's a hose with a clamp and the clamp was broken.  Installed new clamp and no more wobble/looseness.

I read through trying to search blower location without success.  A few years ago I turned the blower switch on at the instrument panel and nothing happened.  Didn't really use it regularly, so no idea whether its a switch issue or a blower issue, or when it went out.  But not sure of where the blower is even located to see if it's getting power, or how I should test the leads to the switch on the panel.  Any advice appreciated.  If other issues don't take precedence, I'd like to try to get a look at this this summer.  I need a boat systems for dummies level book.  I have a few boat repair and maint books aboard, 300 miles away.

I did a search on the message board and came up empty on this question.  The manual says Shell Omala 320 or Castrol SP320 or equivilant gear oil.  Don't often use my windlass but thinking it's overdue for changing out the oil.  I see places on line that sell 5 gallons of the Shell product.  Anyone in the NW have a source for gear oil and a preference?  thanks

took out the batteries to see if I could get a bead on where the cup of water a day is coming from.  Clearly with the water on, it is seeping from somewhere in the hot water heater, so I am looking for info I posted in an earlier reply on the kuuma vs catalina direct.  and also, the board that covers that compartment at the bottom, that is the support for batteries as well as on which the additional board that the hot water heater sits on.  I don't know the exact measurements without removing the hot water heater and all batteries, so I don't know if Catalina direct stocks that, or I wait until haul out and spring replacement of hot water heater, and measure the board then.  But it would be nice if they already have it in stock so that could be done at the same time I have the hot water heater switched out.   any ideas appreciated.

going to try to find the UV detector kit in Friday Harbor.  had a few drops this year, same place the fuel egressing as photo on original post, at the base of the "wall: by the nut..  hit some waves off Patos and the leak stopped for 2 weeks.  then decided to run the engine at 2000 rpm, as normally run at 17 or 18 and the leak started up again.  a drip every minute or so.  wrapped all the fuel lines taping on absorbent material.  nothing.  checked again all fuel connections as well as connections at the injectors.  I still can not see where it's coming from.  it is certainly not the hoses or connections.  Looked at the engine manual but really can't tell if there is something else inside the engine that it could be coming from.  grrr.  major frustration.     

Have a Xantrex statpower true charge 40 charger and 4 T105- (2 banks of 2 batteries each).  This year one of the cells in one of the T105s was 11.5.  the rest of all cells 13 (measured with the hydrometer).  this morning the bad cell had nearly sucked the power out of all the other batteries after only a day anchored.  So I came in and bought one battery and replaced the one with the dead cell. seems like the charger is going non stop at 11 to 12 amps on the bank that is the old bank, and the batteries feel very warm. the place that sells the t105 for 40 dollars less than the other place, has only two left until next week.  soooo...should I replace one for now and have one bank of two new batteries while I wait for the other stock to arrive, or should I get both the new ones, and have one new bank, and the other bank one new and one old and replace the remaining old one next week when the new stock comes in  (was hoping to go out for a week),  feeling perplexed

I guess this is my summer for issues.  motorsailing along fine at 5 knots with jib.  put auto pilot on and go grab a chart- 2 minutes.  when I come out the auto is struggling to keep it's course.  and the rpm/and engine sounds different.  speed decreases and temp goes up to 168ish.  usually runs at 160, maybe 165 at higher temp.  slow down, check the strainer- looks good.  water still coming out but can't tell if it's less.  felt like I snagged a crab pot- kinda a drag on the whole speed.  pretty soon speed is 1 knot at 1300 rmp, where usually it would be close to 4.  long story short- get towed in (the tow guy released his tow rope under the boat while in gear and wrapped it.  after getting in, we're able to get his line off and I move the boat, but in the marina I'm going slow anyway.  but once tied up I run it at 1500 rpm for at least 15 minutes in gear and no heating/cooling issue- stayed at 160.  In the morning I plan on taking it out and running it for an hour and see if it behaves as it did today with lower speed and cooling.  any ideas on things to check?  I"ll check the coolant level, when it cools down.  oil and transmission levels OK.  really thought I'd snagged a trap.  could it have come off when the tow line wrapped up?  there was a lot of grass out in the bay, but the shaft when I got in the marina looked uncluttered.  seaweed maybe?  holy cow.

I see something from 2001 where the handle broke off the Y valve.  I had that happen and somehow figured out how to replace it with what I think is a Bosworth, which has been fine.  But now it's becoming very hard to turn and I am afraid of breaking this one.  I looked on line and couldn't find anything about disassembly but opened it up- handle off, three bolts that hold the cover.  then there's a little set round piece of plastic and there's a rubber ring exposed.  but I very gently pulled on the plastic and it had no give  I didn't want to run the risk of it breaking, and not having an operating head.  so put it all back together.

tried lots of fresh water flushes, and alternated 2 gallons of vinegar, turning the handle until a lot of resistance, so that it was flowing into the holding tank, but I suspect it's not all the way as the arrow doesn't line up direct to the tank hose.  but now it's has a definite squeak when I try to turn the valve. 

gee, isn't cruising fun?

Many years ago the hour meter stopped, so hooked up a separate hour meter that I mounted by the refrigeration unit.  Today I replaced my oberdorfer water pump (on the M35, 1997- N202M-15) without a hitch.  but when I went to test it out, the tach isn't working.  there's no wiring on the starboard side of the boat where the pump is.  when I start the motor, the tach pops to 5 to 7k and instantly goes to zero.  It was working fine on the way in this morning.  I think we can finish out the summers cruise without it working, but am wondering if there's an easy way to check it/problem solve it.  have an ohm meter but I need a course in ohm meter for dummies.  I looked on the back of the alternator.  no loose wires .  coincidence? I have noticed my alt belt is a little loose, but that hasn't changed in the time we motored in and got the pump changed out. 

It started as an occasional drip, at the base of the back of the engine, just under a nut. fuel.  see picture if I can post it...leak then stopped for several weeks, then started up, but much greater volume.  one day it leaked almost 2 tablespoons in 6 hours of motoring, a drip every 50 seconds.  the next day drip started again, but after several hours more, seems to have stopped entirely, and now third day of nothing.  wiped all the surfaces, tightened all the hose fittings, but can't seem to isolate were it's coming from.  didn't see anything on the injectors, or fittings on fuel pump   not sure when we'll get another wifi spot but appreciate any ideas.   can't figure out why it would start, stop, start and stop.

I read through the postings and didn't find anything specific...have a 1997 catalina 34 with the frilight cabin fixtures.  have had 2 go out and looks like it's  not just a replace the bulb sort of thing (that would be too easy and cheap).  so, has anybody found a replacement part and number.  would actually prefer ro replace with LED but would be nice if there was something out there that was a perfect fit to the opening, which has a toggle on/off switch.  any input with a description for dummies very much appreciated.  thanks

Any best price ideas on replacing my 10 year old aluminum propane tank?  I'm not at the boat and not sure of the standard measurements of the stock tank in a 1997 boat.  Filled up the old one just days before the 10 year expiration of the tank, and since it is the old style without the bleed valve, and requires recertification, thought it might just be easier to get a replacement tank.  Any ideas appreciated.   live in the NW.

I called and sent in my rigid boom vang after finding it mysteriouly extended out all the way and the smaller of the tubes bent in half.  The boat had been in storage and still can't figure out how that happened.  Anyway, sent in the unit and for $50 plus shipping they not only replaced the smaller tube,  but I think maybe replaced the whole thing and reversed the pulleys so that it connects correctly.  (The PO had the larger tube attached to the mast and the smaller tube to the boom.)  Now that's customer service to brag about!

Jack and Ray,
Keep expecting to see your plans posted.  We'll get over Monday afternoon and have a 10:00 Tuesday appt to get in the water.  If she starts OK we'll head over to Cap Sante.  Jeanne is likely headed back to Spokane later on Wed.  I'll get things organized and am going to try to get North Harbor guys to come out for an hour or so to help me problem solve last falls starting problem.(and If I have time will ask them a few attachment questions if I were to switch out the 4 D's for golf cart batteries.  I have a couple of teachers coming over for Monday 26th for a few days.  Jeanne and Ross with one of his friends in tow will come back over around the 1st or 2nd.  We'll likely do a loop thru the San Juans.  Once his friend leaves we hope to head north for desolation for the rest of July.

We'll keep our eyes out for you as we travel.  I'll likely check my e mail from the library in anacortes  capranremovespam@yahoo.com  delete the "removespam".  cell in the US is 509 2206761 but once we're in Canada the phone won't work so we'll be incommunicado.

Take care

PS guess the end of the school year, (yesterday) snuck up on me.  Coached till June 1 so didnt think much about the summer.

At the end of our 60 day cruise my wife had a senior moment when shutting down the engine and turned off the key before pulling the plunger.  Realizing quickly the mistake she turned the key back on (in just a few seconds) and pulled the plunger and shut down normally.  The next morning when I pushed the starter button nothing.  No sound, no clicking, no starting-NADA.  Checked the batteries.  All reading 12.6 (link 20) but turned on the starting battery just in case.  Still Nothing.  Checked below all the wires.  Nothing loose.  Tapped very lightly on the starter, looked at the inside wiring at the key switch.  Nothing loose.  Tried to start again, and it started, but I did notice that the buzzer seemed alittle softer than usual.  Over the next two days the boat started every time, but sometimes the buzzer was the regular volume, but sometimes just alittle softer.

I read the Calder books on starters and fretted as we ended the cruise, wondering...is this an ignition switch problem, a buzzer problem, a starter and or solenoid problem or ? and was it caused by the "senior moment" relapse in shut down?  I triple checked all wires connections-none loose. and also wondering about just getting a spare alt/solenoid in case next summer when we come out of storage and the problem is there I am prepared.  As I look at the Caulder books, he talks about jumping the starter, but with my 97, the connections sure look different, as one of the wires is a plug in, so I'm not even sure how to approach it.  Any suggestions on problem solving, parts resources, etc would be greatly appreciated.  I do learn alot by observing and this summer we did have our alternator go out.  North Harbor Diesel came out and replaced it- long story short, for FREE, with a new 55 amp alternator after the rebuilt they had installed failed after 15 minutes, so I am not opposed to having them come out when I go back in the water.  But June is a long way off and I thought I'd use the year to learn more.

Except for those two issues- we had a most perfect cruise of the San Juans, Gulf Islands and Victoria, with Voyager looking and running better than she ever did!  Even noticed she seems to like the cooler waters of the NW better than Florida, running right at 165ish degrees rather than on the high side of 190 degrees in Florida and the Bahamas.  And I never saw so many C 34's in the Bahamas as I saw in the NW!

Thanks for any input or ideas.

PS If any of you have not discovered an easy way to clean off the yellow "mustache", someone in Bellingham turned me onto the fiberglass cleaner- FSR.  easy wipe on and wipe off with no caustic reaction and no scrubbing! (and it was 2 bucks cheaper than West Marine and a store 2 blocks from the Bellingham Marina).

I just finished reading all the links on the replacement of standing rigging.  Jim Cane (I think) seemed to suggest an "if it ain't broke, don't fix it".  Most posts were about older c 34's.  Any thoughts about my dilemma:  Voyager is an 1997 that was in the humid SE until October 04.  I'm now in the NW.  For transportation, all the rigging is off the boat.  I had NW Rigging test all but the forestay (I think they may look at that when they bring the old rigging back, at least I hope so.).  The report came back that there is no damage whatsoever and he recommended as a general rule replace after 12-15 years unless I was going to head off shore to Mexico.  But I am thinking since insurance will pay for reconnecting the rigging and restepping the mast, why not go ahead and replace the rigging now.  If and when I go around Vancouver Island I expect alittle more like offshore conditions.
They are going to prepare me a quote to include a new forestay (which they said is about a days labor in and of itself due to the need to remove the Schaefer roller furler).  The said the turnbuckes all are fine.  So, to replace now or wait 3 to 5 years?

Well, once again Catalina Yachts  helped  less than I had hoped...I guess I can't blame them for wanting to make a profit.  I called and they did say that the flooring is called "loin coin", which encouraged me.  When I asked the name of the manufacturer, they said they don't release that information.  I can buy it from Catalina at $45.00 a square yard.   They said they use something else in the newer models, but wouldn't say what. I probably would have gone ahead and ordered it had I had the measurements with me, price gouging and all.  I would be interested in what others have on their boats and if anyone has ever replaced the flooring with something else.  The edges of my old floor covering curled up from the moisture of Francis.  The plywood flooring underneath looks solid.  I may be stuck forking over the 200 bucks or so for the loin coin.  I did a search and turned up nothing.  Any ideas?  thanks

Randy
Voyager  # 1345
1997 Mark II

WOW!!!!  After an overnight soak the mildew stains are gone and the berth cushion looks brand new!  I found a link to the IOSSO mold and mildew stain remover at snapfastener.com.  I bought some at $33.40 (with "free shipping")for 12 ounces, figuring it's expensive but if I can save my cushions it was worth the chance.  Instructions say 15 minutes, which did nothing, but it said for tough stains soak over night.  I am very impressed with the results, as there were some pretty tough mildew spots.

I did, however, find a link direct to the manufacturer and it is only $19.00 including shipping, but I'll call next week and see if it's available anyplace locally.


http://iosso.com/products.htm

I wonder if  any of their boat cleaning products are as impressive.

Hi All,
Even though the inverter seems to be working I am thinking it would be a good idea to replace it (since the insurance has covered it).  Have a Portawattz 1000, I think, but in doing some research seems that there are a number of Xantrex models available too.  What models do you all use?  I looked through the past 5 years of practical sailor and found nada, and did a search on this web site.  Any ideas?  usually use it for occasional drill use, and TV/VCR.  Not sure how it would be to use a low watt electric heater to warm the cabin alittle on those coolish mornings of the NW during summer time.

Also, will pick up the T-9 this week and am looking for source for the "dilectric silicone grease".  Making some progress on the stain for the v berth lower panel at the foot of the bed.  Spent three hours at the place where I bought the teak.  Came close by combining colonial cherry and red mahogany but need alittle golden tone to it for a more exact match.  Yesterday dropped off the old piece at Columbia Paints and they will hopefully have a very close match custom made by this afternoon.  Am also going to see if I can disassemble the port two cabinets but I don't know how Catalina attached them.  There are small pieces of wood on the inside edges and I'll take those off to see if that is what is holding the unit in place.  I have still had no luck with call backs from Catalina.  Also, I sure wish I knew their source of fabric on the forward and aft cabin cushions.  I would love to just buy the covers.  The foam is in great shape but there are a few stains (which are visible if you know where to look).  The main cushions have cleaned up very nicely, though it is labor intensive.

Hi all,
I won't bore you with too many details but some interesting things I have discovered that you all might find interesting.  The autohelm speed and depth that were mounted on the white board just above the chart table:  I still don't know if they are repeaters or the main instruments.  I forgot (well, ran out of time) to check the Nav pod at the helm to see if those are the repeaters and the ones down below are main.  They are held on with plastic nuts on long screws.  Getting to them is interesting.  You have to remove the hanging locker panel adjacent to the chart table, have climb in the locker and reach your arm around.  No easy task when you're 6'4".  But they are off and ready to be shipped to the factory for evaluation.  Their customer service has been very responsive to me so far and said they'll eval and if not fixable will "give me a deal" on new, so I'll have my research ready.  They did say the ST60's would be compatible with the ST50 plus that were installed.

Replaced the West Bilge pump switches.  Voyager has three pumps: the main on the panel, as well as one in the forward and aft sections of the bilge.  All are now working perfectly.

I hooked up the Link 20 monitor and ran the new wiring to the battery compartment, snaking it through as I pulled out the old wiring,  but have not hooked up the new shunt yet.  I wanted to get the batteries fully charged and there was enough else to do in the 20 hours that I worked on the boat.

An electrician evaluated the wiring and gave a good report.  Suggested going through all the connections and taking each apart and using "dialectric?" grease as a precaution, but no rust or corrosion detected.  I replaced the water pump.  It's the Shurflo 2.8GPM. I had a spare which I kept  down low by the holding tank, but it didn't work either so have now installed the new but don't have a spare yet.  Fortunately most of my spare electrical parts were on the starboard side.   Have any of you installed a larger pump?  Also got a new macerator.  I was bummed when I found the Seaward water heater inoperable.  Probably too much moisture in the air, but there were no visible signs that water ever entered that area.  The boat yard is preparing an estimate to submit to the insurance to replace.  If it gets approved I'll have them do the work.  But they mentioned that there is a new hot water heater out that is alot more efficient, so they'll let me know more later.

Removed both panels inside the hanging closet by the chart table.  On the surface they look like such nice cedar.  They're not.  It is a very thin cedar veneer over fiber board.  I think I'll replace it with something nicer.  It is a tight fit getting them out of the closet!  Cleaned alot, but there is still more to clean.  Ultimately I'll remove every floor board and clean the inside of the hull.

Insurance has authorized the yard to check the engine and shaft alignment and fix anything found, although I have looked at the oil and mountings and all looks good.

They did find two areas where the tabbing pulled away from the hull when she went down which they will fix when they do the gel coat repairs.  NW rigging took the stays back to the shop to dye test.  Since the boat is 7 years old I may end up going ahead and replacing the rigging since it's accessible.  Even though it was expensive (about $900) to have them wrap the mast, they did an excellent job and came across country without a scratch.  They did, however, cut the VHF wire very short, at the base of the mast, and I'll need to replace it.  (B.O.A.T.=break out another thousand)

The wood is looking very good.  A light sanding of the settee bulkhead cleaned it right up. (it was only the bottom 5 inches that had any discoloration from the water.)  I wiped it with a damp cloth only and was amazed how good it matched, so I'll experiment with a number of varnishes and stains that you all have recommended to see if I can get a close match on the piece at the foot of the V berth that I am replacing.  The two port cabinets are savable according to a teak expert.  She recommended taking off all the varnish of the entire cabin to that it will match perfectly.  That seems a bit extreme to me given that it is just the two cabinets that might not match the rest that has aged, especially given what I thing the bulkhead looks like, but I always have the option later of expanding the project.

I have brought back the upper  companionway step to refinish.  There was no new water damage but they were showing signs of wear.  I thought I would  use what some have recommended they use on the floor, unless any of you have other recommendations.  Will do that, the V berth foot panel, finish the link 20 wiring and hopefully have instruments to reinstall on next visit.

Probably more than you all wanted to know.

Randy
capran@yahoo.com

I have a 97 and the repeaters for ST50 instruments(speed and depth) are mounted just above the chart table on the white Formica like surface, below the panel.  I don't know if they were done at the factory or? I am trying to figure out how they are mounted.  I tried prying them off thinking maybe silicone holding them, but that didn't work.  The does not appear to be any access to the back of the units.  not from the top where all the wiring is in the panel, as the white board is solid there.  And the hanging locker wood goes all the way back to the side of the boat.  I am stumped.  Any ideas????  I need to remove them and send them in to see if they can be repaired or replaced.  It is an overwhelming project.

We have cleaned Voyager up.  The main a/c was not damaged, so that was good news, and most of the wood was not as bad as it looked originally.  But it will be a long project to dry and refinish.  Next weekend I hope to install the link 20, the bilge pump switches, new macerator and water pump.  West Marine was kind to match the sale price that consumer marine.com had, saving over a hundred bucks just on the link 20!

Thanks, all, for any guidance and ideas as I undertake this project.

Can anyone clarify...I called Catalina and they said it was a "mast boot " when I described that I have a deck stepped mast and want the part number for the plastic piece that sits at the base of the mast on deck, and they gave me part number 30256.  I always thought a "mast boot" was the rubber piece that goes around the base of the mast on a keel stepped mast.  I hate to order a $36.30 part if it's not what I need.  I am assuming after transport that I need a new one.  Also, I asked about Varnish and was once again forwarded to Kent Nelson.  I am hoping this time he calls me back.  sure is a frustrating ordeal.  also, interesting to hear that the boat yard is charging me 854.83 to remove the rigging from the mast in prep for transport.  the mast was already removed from the boat!!!  alittle price gouging in Florida, seems like....

Hi All,
I searched the archives and saw a post by Dave Smith saying he had the varnish that is used on new C 34's but no mention of what it is.   There were a few other posts but no mention of what Varnish Catalina uses.    Since I know that element will be a part of my restoration of Voyager, does anyone happen to know what Varnish they used on 1997 Catalina 34's and where I can get some?    That's at least one thing I can order now while I'm waiting for delivery.  I did get a friend aboard and he thought some of the wood can be saved and just needs to be lightly sanded and varnished.  I'd like to get a match to what Catalina uses.

As shipping date approaches next week I am wondering if anyone knows the height of the top of the bow pulpit off the ground of the wing keel model?  When I look at the line drawings it looks like about 10 1/2 feet.  I am sure hoping I don't have to arrange at the last minute for the pulpit to be removed prior to transport.

Am shipping Voyager to the NW.  They say I cant leave the Bruce on the roller (which really would be the best place).  Does anyone know if the Bruce will fit inside the anchor well?  also, has anyone ever removed the spreaders?  Is it simply screwed onto the mast?  Just wondering how many hours the boat yard is going to claim it takes to remove the standing rigging from the mast.  Will probably be a month before I can get her up here and I'm sure I'll have many more questions as I undertake repairs.  Thanks all.

Randy

Hi All,
Well, I am still waiting to hear from Boat US insurance, but I did get bad news from the boat yard.  Voyager was in Harbortown Marina, Ft Pierce, about 12 or so miles N of Seewall Point where francis made landfall.  About half the boats were knocked over that were stored in the yard.  Unfortunately, Voyager was one of them.  My fear was hull damage, but apparently there were only a few dings in the gel coat as it went over on her port side.  Guess it's a pretty strong hull!  When I heard that I was feeling good.  I waited almost 2 weeks for them to get the authorization to put the boat upright again.  The removed the mast and entered the boat to find it was filled with water up to the bottom of the cabinent forward of the chart table.  Sooo, cushions on the starboard side, inverter, instrument repeaters, GPS all would have been underwater.  I have no idea where the water came from as she is usually a dry boat when upright with no leaks.  I have no idea of if there was water elsewhere, like back toward the engine compartment, or if when put upright if water made it to the battery charger, battery area, A/C unit, etc.  They say it's up to me to arrange repairs, which is going to be tough from 3000 miles away.  And I have yet to hear specifics from the insurance folks.  I doubt I would be so lucky as to totalling her so that I could start fresh.  Originally(before the storm) I was going to come to Florida in April and put her on the dockwise ship and bring her back to the NW.  what are peoples experience with insurance and repairs.  what should I be aware of and wary of?  Each year I have had Voyager I have liked her more and more and sure hope I can be ready for cruising this summer.  Should I go ahead and have her shipped by land since they have the mast off already, and do the repairs up here? Any rumors of good or bad transport companies.  Thanks for any and all advice.

PS has anyone else been getting pop ups and redirects when they visit this site?  I would post a pic but can't find specific instructions on how to do so.