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Messages - dgill

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Main Message Board / CNG TANK
« on: October 08, 2008, 05:38:05 AM »
I would like to purchase a CNG Tank.  If you have converted to propane and did not get rid of your leftover CNG tank let me know.  Tank-you. :D

Main Message Board / Re: Raymarine
« on: September 26, 2008, 06:41:42 AM »



Main Message Board / Re: Portlight leak mystery
« on: May 21, 2008, 03:39:16 AM »
My boat had the same problem with the leaky portlights.  Indeed they were the "O" rings on the handles that over 20 years had dry rotted.  Contact McMaster Carr (online) and order the rings from them.  For a modest price you'll get enough "O" rings that you can share them with other boat owners as I have done.  This is a simple fix that solves an aggrevating problem.  I believe that Ron Hill will know exactly which "O" ring to order - I just don't have the info with me. 


Main Message Board / Re: boom reefing blocks
« on: May 20, 2008, 09:44:50 AM »
Also check Catalina Direct.  They have them on their web site for $42.95 each.

D. Gill

Main Message Board / Re: transmission dip stick
« on: May 20, 2008, 09:42:21 AM »
.....Or you might fashion a dipstick out of a colored wire tie - using the loop as the stopper - and the long pointy end, just the right length to match the existing trans dip stick, from the start of the threads.  This works very well and is flexible which allows you to easily check the fluid level.  I have done the checking this way for many years.   :thumb:

D. Gill
First Point of Aries
Hull #389
1987 Mark I

Main Message Board / Re: Propeller ID
« on: May 07, 2008, 06:59:21 AM »

My suggestion is that you email Black Dog Props and send them your photo and ask if they might know.
Here is their web site address:

They are located in Maryland near Annapolis-just FYI as I know you're in Canada...

D. Gill

Main Message Board / Re: cng gas
« on: April 28, 2008, 08:25:20 AM »
Thanks for getting the info to this list.  The part numbers/descriptions will be very useful in assembling this "adapter".  The cost will be quickly recouped as you so correctly point out.  It is a shame that Corps Bros refuses to provide this item as a for sale part.  I asked them about it a couple of years ago and their response was 'we are working on it and it should be available in a year or so'.  Guess they still make money shipping the tanks all over.   Will look for this on our projects page soon.  Thanks very much.

Main Message Board / Re: cng gas
« on: April 24, 2008, 09:08:41 AM »
I think that more than a few of us may be interested in a CNG filler adapter.  Would you consider posting the particulars/photos/specs on this site?  Thanks very much.   :thumb:

Main Message Board / Re: Emergency Tiller
« on: February 04, 2008, 07:06:03 AM »

Main Message Board / Re: Marelon valves
« on: January 11, 2008, 08:32:57 AM »
Hi Martial,

If the existing valves are difficult to operate and you feel they are no longer viable, why not replace them with New Marelon valves.  The existing valves have worked for nearly 22 years.  Marelon is not subject to galvonic corrosion.

D. Gill

Hi Jon,   :clap

If you check the internet for you will find the source for CNG.  They are the only tank exchange service that I know of.  They distribute to many states but it is an ever dwindling list.  If you decide to make the switch to propane and might be interested in getting rid of your existing CNG tank I would like to speak with you.  My email is  Thanks. :D

Main Message Board / Re: Water tank leaks...from the top
« on: June 25, 2007, 07:24:37 AM »
To add one more brief comment...the only time the forward water tank leaked from the inspection port on my boat was when the vent in the stanchion was blocked by those mud daubber wasps.  This created internal tank pressure when the tank was filled which caused the water to "escape" by other means.  Once I cleared the dirt out of the deck stantion vent this area no longer leaked.   :D

Main Message Board / Re: Stuffing Box Issue
« on: May 16, 2007, 04:15:07 AM »
Gentlemen,  Monday I pre cut three strands of the Goretex packing, then opened the stuffing box, slid the packing gland forward, tied a couple of 2" strips of old tee shirt around the shaft opening to slow the water and pulled the 3 strands of old packing out.  I replaced these with the new strips and put it all back together in a total of about 15 minutes.  Not enough water in the bilge to even activate the pump.  With most things on our boats, once the business of doing something is demystified I have found the tasks are actually easy.  The hardest part is knowing that YOU can do it.  This site provides all we need to rely less and less on the boat mechanic. :thumb:   

Main Message Board / Re: Old Standard Lewmar Ports
« on: May 15, 2007, 05:23:36 AM »
I just wanted to update the group, I ordered the "O" rings from McMaster/Carr.  I removed the Lewmar handle plug as directed, unscrewed the philipps head screws and the handles came apart easily.  The "O" ring is on the outside portion.  I have replaced all 12.  On my 1987 (hull #389) boat, they were all dry rotted to one degree or another.  The new "O" rings fit perfectly (2mm x 12mm).  This was an easy job and now no more leaks!  Thank you for the expert guidance - as usual.

Main Message Board / Re: Shower Drain / Pump Questions??
« on: April 24, 2007, 09:19:33 AM »
Some owners have routed their showers to drain to the bilge.  The bilge pump would then be used to remove the shower water.  I guess the sump switch in the head would then be connected to the bilge pump - along with the "normal" automatic/manual bilge pump switch.

The system on my 1987 C34 - Open the shower thru hull; turn on the panel shower sump switch; shower, and as water collects on the head floor, operate the shower toggle switch, located on the head sink cabinet. This activates the pump which pulls the water from the floor and removes it out through the thru hull you opened.  As the diagram indicates there is a anti-siphon valve in the water removal loop downstream from the pump which is mounted beneath the head sink.

The wiring would be as required to run power from the Nav panel to the head toggle to the pump.

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