Topics

My question is how can I get the push button fuse/breaker for the hot water heater to pop out (off position).  All power is disconnected on our boat as we're in the process of selling it.  I was showing the prospective buyer how the button works.  It was popped out and I pushed it in, thinking I could just push it again and it would spring pop out.  But not happening. Surveyor wants shore power electricity tomorrow and I need the hot water heater to be off so it doesn't burn out without water.  Does it somehow need power to pop out? Do I need to access the back of the panel to fix this?  Or am I missing something? Thanks,k Kerk

Our yard is ordering a new elliptical rudder from Ruddercraft. We have a 1990 open transom wing keel. 
Is there a preference between the HDPE or Fiberglass.  Does it really make a difference?
I notice that there's a choice of a 48" or 58" trailing edge.  Preference?
Thanks

After checking into all the boxed options (and looked at the posts), and living so far from our boat, I've decided to have the yard put together DIY lazy jacks. We have a new full battened loose footed main, and want to use our existing sailcover without modifications. What EXACT measurements/choices have really worked?
1. height of cheek blocks on mast (above or below spreaders?)
2. Are 3 legs enough? Is 4 overkill?
3. Measurement of legs from the mast along the boom
4. Blocks vs thimbles or rings?
5. Any other pertinent info that would be useful

Thanks! Kerk

What is the length of the boom on our 1990 Standard Rig?  I'm 600 miles away from our boat and I"m exploring lazy jacks so am collecting what be any pertinent info.  Thanks, Kerk

For our new main sail made by Quantum sails I have an option of a "Loose foot with additional loose round" or traditional with foot in the boom track.  They say that most of the sails they're making now are loose foot.  What are your thoughts?  1990 reg rig.  Thanks, Kerk  And thanks for the thoughts on full or partial battens--I'm going with full.  Kerk

For my 1990 Standard Rig I'm finally replacing the original full battened mainsail! Amazed it's lasted this long.  So now I have a choice to go full battened or partial battened.  This is all new to me.  What is the benefit/drawback of either way and what are most of us going with now?  We don't race but have been cruising for 29 years.  If and when we sell our boat (maybe to someone who races?) which way is best for resale? Or does it matter?  Thanks! Kerk

From a previous owner we have the wood dining table, cushion, pedestal, and flange that the pedestal sits in. Should we have an additional part that connects the table to the mast for stabilization?  The pedestal is loose in the flange. If such a part exists is it able to be purchased? Thanks kerk. Into the mystic 1990, 1102

I need to replace the fuel bleeder needle valve on my Universal M35 as the rotary thumb dial broke off. Does anyone know the part # and where I could purchase it?  Thanks, Kerk

I've been reading through the old threads but want to make sure of one thing. If I assess that I need a new system and want to keep the existing fridge/freezer box (so as not to dismantle the counter top)  is my only choice the Dometic cu-100 and vd150, etc. thanks, kerk

I have a seaward s600-120 that is 13x13x16, leaking badly do I want to replace it with the same model which is, unfortunately, 14x14. The hatch hole is 14.25. Can I squeeze the old out and new in by the hatch?  Or who makes a smaller unit?  Thanks. Kerk

3M Adhesive Remover, Debond 2000, DSR-5, Goo Gone, West Marine Adhesive Remover, Mr Clean magic Eraser, the list goes on....and on.  Ugh. So many options and expensive at that, does anyone know what really works to take old silicone off gelcote and fiberglass.  If I were to buy one of these or something else what would it be? An age old problem I know..... Thanks, Kerk

The plastic mushroom head of our anchor locker drain Through hull broke off.  I am 600 miles from our boat and want to purchase the part and caulking before I go up to save time. 

1.Does anyone know the make and # of the Through hull?

2.  What is best caulk to re bed the new piece?  Do I apply a bead, let it set up over night, then apply the Through hull?

3.  The old Through hull was applied with silicone.  Ugh.  Anything new out there to to rid the area of this troublesome material?

Thanks, Kerk Fisher.  Into the Mystic II,  1990, Hull#1102

My wife and I have been sailing for over 25 years in Canada's North Channel and in the last couple of years my wife has been developing difficulty walking up and down stairs and ladders. It's also difficult supporting herself with arms/hands-- a little is possible, but not preferable.  Any thoughts in making companionway stairs and swim ladder easier to negotiate.  We have an open transom. We want to sail til the end of our days!  Thanks, Kerk

Q1:  I'm very far from "into the Mystic."  What is the diameter of the pedestal guard tube?

Q:  Any ideas on how to buy/create a Garmin 741 mount that will both rotate AND move around the Pedestal guard tubing from vertical side to the center of the rounded top?  Haven't found one online...

Thanks, Kerk

 Does anyone know if the 5/8 sail slides by Bainbridge (sold at west marine, downwindmarine, etc) are exactly 5/8 and the right ones.  Last year I popped two slides in a rogue gust and had two 5/8 slides delivered by a marina and they were more like 9/16, a bit too small for my comfort--they look as if they might pop out of the track.  They worked to finish the season but need to be replaced.  Thanks, Kerk 1990, #1102

Greetings.  We noticed at the end of last season that the trailing edge of the rudder has only an eighth of an inch clearance.  About 8 years ago we nicked the rudder when our keel got hung up on a rock.  (My wife says she would have noticed it well before now if this kissing the bottom had caused it)  It's solid with no loose play and has posed no apparent problem.  So we don't know the cause.  BUT our idea of fixing it is to belt sand the top of the rudder a bit so we feel comfortable with the clearance.  Q: How would we finish it off? epoxy, primer, then bottom paint?  What epoxy and primer? 

I'll be repainting my 1990 34' wing keel Catalina.  We sail the great lakes so we've allowed the bottom paint to get pretty sparse.  Q:  How many quarts will I need of red VC-17m extra, how many coats, and how much do I thin it (a fellow sailor says about 1/2 cup of acetone to a quart)?  Also, I may be doing a little epoxy repair on the keel and will need to prime it before painting.  Q: What primer would adhere to both the epoxy and the bottom paint?  Thanks, Kerk

This year, for the first time, our boat pulls to port pretty drastically when the motor is on. When moving slowly we don't feel it but as we pick up speed we need to need to struggle to keep it going straight.  Does not happen while under sail.  There was no trauma to the rudder, and we have a new stainless shaft. Propeller good.  Visual inspection down below indicated no problem apparently with steering mechanism, gears, all tight, running freely. Yard put boat to bed very well.  Last year no problem at all. But this year..... What happened and is happening?

Hi.  I've tried searching lots of items and the site always comes up with:

2: pspell_new() [<a href='function.pspell-new'>function.pspell-new</a>]: PSPELL couldn't open the dictionary. reason: No word lists can be found for the language "en".
File: /home/c34org5/public_html/bbs/Sources/Search.php
Line: 700

I have a MacBook Pro.

What's happening?  Thanks, Kerk

Anyone use vodka, instead of a chemical treatment, for the water supply.  If so, how much?  I"ve heard of it.... Thanks, Kerk

Hi sailors, we are miles from our boat and it's been a long time since we put a mattress topper on our cushions in the V-Berth.  Does anyone know the widest and longest measurements of the V-Berth cushion area.  Thanks, Kerk

Does anyone ever replace the oil drain tube/banjo fitting and replace with a standard (metric 12) drain plug?  Oil change then through dip stick   Thanks, Kerk

I just had installed a P.Y.I. packless sealing system on our boat and before sailing I'd like ideas about what to do if it starts to leak (either slow or fast!) when we are out on the water?  Thanks, Kerk

I'm in the market for a used whisker pole for my c34.  Could even be shorter than those generally used--maybe max extension 12'.  We don't race and only use it in very light winds... thanks, Kerk

When getting ready to winterize our boat I took the hose off the cold water inlet and water flowed from the inlet. Is this OK?  I've winterized for four years by connecting cold and hot water hoses, and this has never happened, but in those previous years I may have turned off the pump and drained the hot water heater first, so that by the time I unhooked the cold water hose there was nothing left to spurt out.  When the water started I thought that I had bumped the temp release valve so I pulled it out straight for just a moment, then back. (I shouldn't have done this!) I've ordered another from Seaward. So is everything OK?

We need to order replacement "glass" for 2 of our  "old style" lewmar windows that have crackled. What is the standard tint on a Mark 1, 1990?  tint comes in green, grey, and clear. Also It looks as if the hinges are attached with bolts that can be taken off. How do the latches come off?  Thanks, Kerk

We have two battery banks: house with four 6 volt and a 12 volt starting bat. After disconnecting and topping off our batteries with a full charge last Sept. 1 and putting her on the hard outside in Southern Lake Huron (Penetanguishene) we returned home to Kentucky (12 hours away). Because of various situations here, we will be returning to our boat later than we thought, perhaps as late as August or Sept.

Normally we leave our batteries for 10 months (August 1 to June 1), and they're OK.  My question is, after 11-12 months will the batteries be OK? If not, what should I do? And, this is extreme, Is it possible we might have battery acid all over from a crack? If so, how is it cleaned up?

Decomissioning last year I took some kind of measurement of the forward hatch (24 X 24), but I fear that is not right. We need it to order the kind of bug screen that rests on the exterior. Is anyone near their boat and could give me the exterior measurements (top-hinge-to bottom and side to side) that the lead or chain  would sit over? We have a 1990, MK I. Thanks, Kerk

What is the best and least expensive source for a 1/2 " drive, 1 1/8" EXTRA deep socket for tightening my keel bolts. I've only found 50+ dollars for something I will use rarely!  thanks, Kerk

Last year as we took our mast down, I left my wife to disconnect the shrouds. She totally disconnected the shrouds from the turnbuckles and struggled with it. (I usually keep the turnbuckle and shroud connected) When I returned there were metal filings by each shroud. This concerned me! The yard person said that it would probably be OK. There was probably corrosian and that that filings were probably from the turnbuckle and not the shroud because the turnbuckle is made of a weaker metal, and is the sacrificial part. He thought I'd have to just replace the turnbuckles. I will do a thorough investigation with a magnifying glass when we return to our boat... but what do you think?

Had a great two months sailing. Love this boat!

When I couldn't get the pencil zinc off I decided to undertake a thorough checking of  the heat exchanger, so proceeded to take it off and have it cleaned over the winter. This is what I did.  A few days ago I winterized the engine with "the pink stuff" through the freshwater cooling system. THEN I took off the Heat Exhanger. I the process, of course , I lost some of the "pink stuff" and much (all?) of the coolant (the green stuff). I left the engine in that state in Midland, Canada (cold) and have the heat exchanger here with me in KY over the winter>(Rushing back to work after two months sailing. Then I had second thoughts.  Will the engine be OK over the winter without coolant and all the pink antifreeze? One diesal mechanic here says OK but I need to check you all who know more about the specifics of our 35M. Do I need to go back up (800 miles!) and finish the job or will it be alright?

Also, what are the specifics of putting it back? Check the hoses for replacement, connect the hoses, fill the engine with coolant.  Do I need to do any bleeding of air from the coolant or pink stuff/water system?or does that take care of itself--unlike air in the fuel lines.  If so how do I do it? 

Much of the time I feel I am way over my head with these projects, but with this great website I am gaining courage to wade in....... Thanks, Kerk

I've been searching the Forum and discovered two different sizes for keel bolt sockets. Which is correct? 1 1/8 or 1 1/4? Thanks, Kerk

I just purchased a pencil zinc for the heat exchanger and collar zinc for the shaft. (I assume our heat exchanger is 3" as we have an M35 on a 1992; if not I'll cut the zinc to size as Ron Hill suggested in the FAQ).  QUESTIONs: Where is the zinc on the shaft? Anything special about applying it?      We're in Lake Huron, fresh water; do we need a galvanic isolator? We're hardly ever at dock with shore power. We're staunch sailors on the hook. Thanks, Kerk

Hi. Last year our chain got wrapped around a deadhead log, and as we played with it to try to work it loose the chain "rasped" the forward tip of the keel covering off. The keel is painted with vc-17 extra. This is my first bottom job so I"d like to know if  I'm thinking this right. The gashed material (keel covering) looks like epoxy, without any fiberglass material. Am I reading this right?  So, I would sand a bit of the bottom paint away from the gash edges. Or do I even need to do this? Epoxy it (with What kind of epoxy??) and paint over.   Seems simple except maybe moulding the epoxy so it gets a good shape--Is there a special way to do this? How much time between coats? Is there anything I should be concerned with? Any tips on how to do this?   Thanks, Kerk 
---By the way does anyone know the measurement in the refrigerator from the top shelf to the inside top of the refrig (for a basket to be put instead of the shelf)? One month more And we'll see our 600 mile away baby!!

I've been looking at the 2003 thread on this subject and couldn't get an answer about where Jim Kane had his rigging magnetic particle inspected and x-rayed. Anybody know?  Also, does anyone know where this can be done in the Toronto or east coast area?   This seems to be the most reasonable approach rather than assuming everything needs to be repaced. We just bought the boat and the rigging is 14 years old. Thanks, Kerk

Anyone off hand know the wheel size (diameter) and tube circumference for our boat, 1992 walkthru transom, #1102? I guess if I put to use some of my high school math I could figure the circumference of the tube with the diameter dimension. This is for getting a wheel cover. The bare wheel is starting to hurt my wife's hands. These little questions make me want to be nearer our boat!! Thanks, Kerk

Does anyone know what make fresh water foot pump will fit inside the galley area near the sink? We are not close to  our boat and don't know the clearance. Seems to me there is only about 3 inches, but I'm hoping there is more. Also, is there a foot pump arm that folds out of the way? Thanks, kerk

Hi. I've been looking at the pivoting davit system sold at allinflatables.com. it consists of 2 large "c" looking hooks that your dinghy hooks into and you roll it up. It's made for power boats with swim platforms primarily because ideally it needs a 30" spread for best support. Anyone use it on our small platform? I have a 1990 with walk thru transom.

Any better ideas for hauling our dinghy other than regular davits, putting it on the bow, or trailing it behind?

thanks, Kerk 

We have a 90, #1102, and the sliding companionway hatch scrapes the coach top because there's no clearance as it gets to be about half way closed. Fiberglass on the top of the sliding hatch is beginning to be scraped away, and it's hard to pull the hatch closed.  Nothing seems to be damaged, such as the coach top being flattened, and the teak piece is undamaged.  I've seen another '90 just a few #'s away and there is a good 1/2+ inch clearance all the way closed. I've taken pix and thought of sending to Gerry Butler--is this a manufacturing flaw on Catalina's part? Or is there something I can do about it?  thanks, Kerk

I have two conflicting designs for a cradle for our 1990 wing (#1102). One (from manual) indicates 12' betw. pads, another, (from the Marine Cradle Shop) indicates 13'. Since the pads should be right underneath the interior bulkheads, could someone with a comparable model who is near their boat (ours is 700 mi away!) measure the distance betw. the bulkheads? Thanks, Kerk

As we put our boat away this Fall we got into a situation where we had to use a cradle that was the wrong size. As a result the aft pads (there are six) are indenting the body more than we'd like.
Questions:
1) How will I know if this has done permanent damage or if it's OK?

2) We will buy/have made a cradle for next year. Do we use the specs in the manual page 63? This only has four pads, not six. Is six better? Do the pad heights indicated refer to the pads when they are midway in their adjustment? Anyone have a better design?

3) We are storing our boat near Parry Sound in Georgian Bay, Lake Huron. Know of a cradle maker? of anyone who has one for sale?

We had a great summer sailing our new '90. Loved it every day!! Thanks for all the advice through last winter and spring!!   Kerk

Hi all, 2 more weeks and we're on our boat. Can't wait. A couple of last minute questions.

1. Some people put access doors in the v-berth down low to the left and right of the under the berth drawer, next to the hanging locker and "chest of drawers." Does anyone know what size door these areas will accommodate? I forgot to measure when I was last at the boat.

2.  Four 10X26 Taylor fenders came with our boat. This seems like overkill and takes up mucho room. Are 8X20's OK and do we really need four?

3.  Our boat came without mast wedges. What's the need, wisdom on this issue?

Now, after so many questions, my first contribution! When our boat came without a set of white galley cabinet doors (they had a microwave in the space), we searched and searched and finally found, at Home Depot, Thrifty White Tileboard. $10. Same thickness as doors, a nice shiny white, so we're replacing a four doors.

Thanks for all the help!!

The yard that painted our bottom sprayed over the open new garboard plug and got paint (VC-17) on the threads. Is this a problem? Also, when the plug is installed should we use teflon tape, or what, or nothing to seal it? Kerk

When installing a dodger where do you run the traveller line? Paul Bousquet, after much thought, passed the lines through the dodger. Any other suggestions?  Or good ways of going through dodger if it's really necessary? Thanks, Kerk  One month to launch and are we excited!!

Our boat, a 90 STANDARD rig, is 600 miles away and the canvas shop says that it will measure 6 inches down from the boom bottom to create the top of the dodger. MAIN SAIL will NOT be on the boom for the measurement. No dutchman, only (I forget the name) the small lines and rings that attach to the leach of the sail so it doesn't flop over too much when dropped.  Is this enough room to clear the dodger when the sail is on the boom and enclosed in the cover? Could anyone who is near their standard rig boat measure this and tell me what it should be?  THANKS, Kerk

I have lewmar opening ports but can't close the ports with the screens in. (I couldn't believe this construction so I called Lewmar and a person there said yes, it's true. They are made in Europe where they don't have a bug problem!!) Is there any way of avoiding taking all these out and installing Beckson opening ports? With mosquitoes chomping at the bit to get in we need to be able to open and close our ports with the screens always in. Thanks, Kerk

In doing extensive bottom repairs, Torresen Marine in Muskegon, MI discovered that the very bottom bond on our boat (1990), the spray resin that goes on after the gelcoat and before the layers of fiberglass, was not bonded well by the factory. They have pieces of it that show how shiny it is. Torresen said that sometimes Catalina may have taken responsibility for situations like this. Anyone have experience with this and who to talk to at Catalina?  And the best approach to them. We are die hard Catalina customers. Would never have another boat; this is our second. Does this count for anything?  Thanks, Kerk

We've been looking into closed cell cockpit cushions so we don't have to bring them inside, but they seem very hard (from samples) (My wife just had a back operation and might want more cushion.) Are they really that hard?  Any softer closed cell? Or, waterproof cover for softer cushions? Kerk

I want to install solar panels above our bimini, which we want to remain collapsible, so we can enjoy the sun in Canada.  I've seen kits that install the panels on a permanent bimini.  Anyone done what I want to do?  Thanks, Kerk

I am replacing (on the bulkhead) old Horizon instruments with 4" mounting holes with new ST60 instruments with 3 1/2" mounting holes. New mounting screw holes are very close to the cutouts. How do I fill in the extra space so the new instruments have something to grab on to? Thanks, Kerk