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Hmmmm. I'll have to measure the cradle of the C34 that was in front of me this winter. Either that sets a precedent or they will have grandfathered it in.

My boat yard limits cradle width to 7' No jack stands allowed.

Is there a typical cradle width?

This one is interesing. This is a Mk 1.5 with the walk-thru transom. There is a very clear ring surrounding the hull in that area. I can't figure out if that is damage repair or if this was a result of changing the design using the original moulds.

I often found water damage under the various access coverage. Is that condensation?  I also found the port side area on the hull to be moist, like someone has sprayed water lightly on it. It also had the most mildew build up. I thought perhaps it was condensation, but it didn't appear any place else.

It appeared that the bilge had been left with standing water for an extended period of time. Seller said that was normal build up after storage in winter.

Here is rot in the galley. Its not near anything particularly leaky, except perhaps a stanchion some distance away.

I found something interesting regarding the chain plates. They seem to have had their bolts replaced in an odd manner. Some where round head screws. Others were hex head. But one in particular appears to have been tightened down so hard it crushed the deck somewhat. The backer to the plate was also bent. I presume this is a straight up water intrusion concern.

Good afternoon everyone. I toured a 1992 C34 this week and had some findings and photos I'd like to post for your feedback. If you would be so kind. I'll post as a series of responses to this leading posts.

Thank you for your help.

Can someone lead me through some key points in buying a boat through a broker?

Does one call, discuss the boat and make an offer contingent upon financing, purchaser inspection, survey and sea trial?

Does one do that after purchaser inspection?

I would like a brief tutorial before I stumble forward.

Thank you,

TMAC

We have not. I sent you a PM.

@tmacmi

Keel joint cracks and refairing is something MANY of us have dealt with.  Cracks at the keel to keel stub transition aren't necessarily a huge repair (many do it themselves, as I did (and more.))

Does the work need to be done that far away?
Whereabouts are you (and that boat)?

Wean you negotiate a great discount on the boat based on that yard's estimate and then fix it closer?

I'm not trying to talk you into that boat, but certain repairs may seem more daunting at this point in your search, than they really are.

What's your skill level/desire to do repairs yourself. There's a lot of helping hands on here that can guide you into making a bit-perfect boat into a perfect boat for you.

Ken

Thanks Ken!

I don't think I described the damage well. This isn't from the keel to the keel stub. Its at the transition from the stub into the bottom of the hull itself. The survey suggests exploration for delamination fore, aft and sides where the stub transitions into the bottom of  hull. I was reading a couple of posts related to repairs after a grounding in this forum. It could even extend to damaged stringers at the aft end of the keel stub where it would "punch" up into the bottom.

This boat is at the far west end of Lake Superior. I keep my boat in South Haven. The boat would have to be shipped 400 miles to Milwaukee, then sailed across the Lake to our place.

As for the amount of work I'm willing to do, I have been doing a mini-refit of the boat we bought 2 years ago. New black water tank, replace plumbing hoses, electrical, new propeller shaft, running rigging replacement and other minor items. I'd like to get a boat that requires basic maintenance (critical items aside) for 2 seasons before I started refitting the portions over time.

If I was doing this with a building, I'd have the engineer spec the appropriate repair, then hand the repair specifications to the general contractor and have construction work done in conformance with the plans.

Thank you to all for responding and in such detail. I realize the list is pretty intense and would require wordsmithing. As Stu suggested it should become a checklist for an in-person inspection

I think the real answer is to be patient and wait until there is a boat that is within reasonable driving distance. Reasonable being defined as not too far as to be thoroughly disappointed if its a wasted trip.

I think the first boat I mentioned gave me pause. I am really glad he shared the survey. KWKloeber, the survey indicated evidence of a significant repair at the fore end of the keel and a lengthwise crack at the aft end of the keel. There were varied returns of percussion soundings at the transition of the hull to the keel. There was also a crack in the bilge below the mast step.  There were other items as well; a mast step repair that didn't appear to be professionally performed, a soft sole in a location and extensive areas of elevated deck core moisture. I know that maybe I could negotiate the price to be reflective of the repairs, but something like a substantial keel repair by a yard 11 hours away just isn't on my to-do list.

I must say that I'm a bit flummoxed by this long distance boat shopping.  I found one boat that checked all our boxes about 11 hours away. We were interested enough that I would have considered driving out there. Fortunately the broker gave me a survey, or I should say partial survey because the purchaser stopped the survey based on immediate findings. The boat had clear evidence of a serious grounding. When I asked the broker he said "no groundings were reported"

There are a couple of other boats for sale about 8 hours away, but I have no interest in driving to these places if they can be vetted remotely.

I've come up with a list of preliminary question and photo requests, but I wonder if they'd be taken seriously. What do you think?

Is there a current survey
Has this always been a fresh water boat
Age of Sails
Age of Standing Rigging
Photo of keel
Known evidence of Catalina "Smile"
Evidence of rot at mast step
Engine Hours
Last replacement of cutlass bearing
Has head been replaced
Have holding tanks been replaced
Has the hot water tank and hoses been replaced
Is there a maintenance log
Have the traveler bolts been thru-bolted (pre-1988)
Has the alternator bracket been replaced (M25 21hp Universal, pre 1988)
Has the wiring harness been upgraded as recommended by Catalina
Have bronze steering idler pins been replaced with stainless (Year of concern?)
Has the filtering screen on the fuel pick up hose been removed
Have stanchions and chain plates been re-bedded
Close up photographs of all deck penetration (stanchions, chainplates, hatches, portholes,) both outside and inside where accessible.
Close up photos of keel stub and keel to hull transitions fore and aft

It's nice to meet another Michiganander.  We keep our boat in South Haven. The theory would be to ship to and sail to South Haven.

Same question regarding boat inspections at a distance. Do you just suck it up and travel 10 hours on a possibility?

That's perfect. Unfortunately for you, you are going to be the target of all my questions.

How did you inspect? Broker show you a facetime walk through?  Fly out? Just hire a surveyor and go for it?

Do you mind if I ask generally how much per mile you spent?