Messages

Funny you mention that.  I was literally just reading about windlasses... !

Thanks for point it out though!  It explains a lot.  I didn't really try to use it with chain anyways, but I understand now why it won't work.

pby : Your windless in the picture is only equipped with a drum for rode.  You need a Gypsy for chain!!!

Although I have heard that if you take the chrome finish off the drum it then can be also be used for chain??

A few thoughts

I should also mention that the boat came with a very nice Fortress FX 11, chain and rode as well! From memory the chain and rode are the same size as the CQR.

I think a new anchor is in the cards at the very least.  I just can't have something that heavy that binds.  It's a PITA to get it back up and sailing should be fun.

That's a nice anchor!  Even if it did pass it the shank is so long it won't go any further into the locker.

It's a monster.

As others say, it may be better to get new design anchor.  I have a Mantus.  If you want to solve your CQR fit, it looks like the bale is not letting the joint to pass.  Maybe getting a bale with a higher opening would help.

Thanks!  I'm happy that they've helped explain the issue so well.

The PO still helps out on the boat and we're on good terms, and he's the first owner.  I have no idea where the system came from.  It's clear now why it's been so challenging to work with!

It's a 2001 so I'm sure it came with the Delta (very nice anchor) 5/16" chain.

The windlass is mounted in the anchor locker and is a Maxwell I believe. The chain binds on it as it just doesn't have the diameter to gather the chain and it's also smooth, which doesn't hold the chain.  Not sure if there is a technique to using it with chain.

Noted on the swivel.

I will definitely read those links.  I think this is an interesting topic!

Can I ask what you'd recommend for new system though?

I'm on a fresh water river with a typical depth of 10 - 20ft in the best anchorages, but there are some great spots that are in the 30-50ft depth range.  Mud or weeds, little to no rocks.

Welcome.

Your post is very helpful and the pictures are superb.

I'll go out on a limb here and suggest that either of two things happened with and to your anchoring system:

1.  Your PO did a LOT of anchoring early in his career and brought his old CQR anchor with him from his last boat

2.  Somebody sold you a boat with anchor gear that he never used on this boat and took the good stuff with him

Mark IIs, IIRC, came with Delta anchors and 5/16" chain to fit the windlasses which came with the boats (perhaps not the early 1994-6 boats, don't know for sure, but certainly all the rest - check the tech wiki for price lists).

I may get flamed for this, but

---  The CQR should be removed from your boat if you want to sleep safely at anchor.  Why?  It's either oversized to hold properly or is the right size for your boat, in which case it will fail.  They are 1940s technology.

--- Unless you're doing a circumnavigation, the chain is way oversized for a C34

---  Lose the swivel

Does the chain match the windlass?

You can learn a lot about anchoring SYSTEMS in the 101 Topics.

You could start with these:

Anchor Selection 101  includes good discussions of various system selections and pictures of new generation anchors on bowsprits both short and extended http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,4457.0.html

Why NEW GEN Anchors are Better:

http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,2705.msg19651.html#msg19651

Anchor System Sizing Tables (Reply #6) & Swivels http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,4990.msg30400.html#msg30400

Our primary interest, as you may know, is your safety.  We also have some experience in helping folks learn to make their own choices.

I've found, without a windlass, that sizing the system to the task is important.  But even with a windlass, matching the rode to the mechanical assistant is critical.

Good luck with enhancing your system.

Thank you! All good info.  I didn't realize that was how you measured the chain.  The windlass gets bound up with the chain, and that didn't seem right.  It seemed pointless to me to have a mechanism that would only do part of the job.  Now I know why.

Just a few observations.
1. You have a huge plow anchor. Could probably save weight, size and get better holding with a "new" generation style such as a Rocna or Manson Supreme.

2. Chain is measured by diameter of the chain link, not across the the entire link. Looks like you have 3/8 in. chain, which is large for our boats, but not out of the question for extra security. I use 3/8 myself. A bit big for windlass, but....

3. Try rotating your anchor roller bail (big stainless U-loop attached to roller) 90 degrees, probably make docking the anchor easier. It is not intended as a hold down to keep the anchor on the boat. Use a tie Down line for that purpose.

4. I would remove the swivel. Not needed unless you have all chain rode and even then controversial as to needed as could add a weak point.

That all being said: lots of differing opinions in Forum re: anchors and ground tackle.

New to me MKII.  Anchor will not retract onto roller without shackle getting stuck and I have to reach through the pulpit to fiddle around and get it through.  This is not easy to do at the best of times, and very difficult for smaller crew!

The issue is pretty clear, however I could use some recommendations on how to make the anchor and rode I do have work.  I'm not well versed on what makes up a good anchoring system.

I'm also open to suggestions on a new anchor etc, however I'm hoping there is a way to reuse the existing setup.

It's around a 1 1/2 inch chain, and 3/4 inch rode.

Thoughts?

Great! Is there a supplier or substitute in Canada?  It's normally quicker to get it here if it's in Canada.

Pbyrne - you can get the slider tape here: 

https://www.catalinadirect.com/shop-by-boat/capri-25/hull-deck/midship/sliding-hatch-teflon-tape/

I put new tape on a couple of years ago and makes a HUGE difference.  Make sure you get all of the old adhesive off before putting the new tape on.  I used a heat gun (on VERY low setting) and a plastic scraper.

Hope this helps.

Yes, that seems to be the part.  I've attached some photos.  I have a few questions.

1) what's the best way to remove it and release the sealer
2) How do I repair it?
3) What's the sealer to use when putting it back
4) where do I get the slider tape or a better replacement.  The hatch sticks and requires quite a bit of force to move.

On my 2001 34 MKII, the U shaped coachroof piece that wraps around the companionway hatch has split underneath on the port side 'U' that covers the rail. 

The gelcoat has delaminated and split with moisture in it.  I'm assuming one of the screws has leaked over time.

Is there a fix or a way to replace the coachroof piece? 

I don't know where to find a parts catalog...