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Messages - pbyrne

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121
Main Message Board / Navpod alternative or repair
« on: June 06, 2023, 11:57:37 AM »
During the process of installing a Vesper Marine Cortex VHF/AIS, I've removed the old RAM mic connector, and cigarette accesory plug to free up some room on the top instrument Navpod.  It looks awful with the holes and screw holes and I can't cover them up properly with the Vesper mount and hand set.

I'd like to replace the top Navpod with something that will take the instruments, and isn't frustrating to open and close.  The Navpod screws (whatever they are) are dumb, and the gasket is mind explodingly annoying to work with to put back at the same time you're trying to close things up.

I looked at Navpod for a possible replacement and the $$$ is also mind blowing for a piece of fiberglass. 

Any other companies out there, or ideas on how to seal up holes in an attractive way so it's not such an eye sore?

122
Main Message Board / Re: What's a healthy engine sound like?
« on: June 06, 2023, 11:39:01 AM »
One thing that I noticed is that your belt is a little loose for my taste. I see some wobbling on the left and right sides. I don't like that and I try to have enough tension that it's taut all the way around when running. In my experience, that wobbling can be enough to create a little vibration. That's just me, it's possible that I over-tighten mine, but I like it that way. Replacement belts are $5, so they're cheap to replace if they wear faster.

Also, you can see in the video with the transmission engaged that the stuffing box and shaft move ever so slightly.  Not a vibration, more a swaying motion.  No idea if that's an issue...
That swaying could be a sign of a few different problems. You shaft could be slightly bent or wobbling (especially since it's bronze), your coupler might need re-facing to ensure it's perpendicular, and/or your engine could be out of alignment. The easiest thing to do first is to manually rotate the shaft by turning the coupler. When doing so, is the resistance uniform throughout all 360 degrees of rotation? If so, that's generally a good sign. Another option is to detach your coupler and verify its alignment with a feeler gauge (and also check its alignment through all 360 degrees of rotation). This is something that you should do with the boat in the water, since the boat can flex on the hard.

I notice you have that white insert between the transmission and coupler flange. I have no personal experience with those, so don't know if they're meant to flex and make perfect alignment less critical. But I know from my polymer science background that anything that's elastomeric also has resonant frequencies that might cause bad things to happen at certain RPMs, so they're not always an improvement.

More importantly, if that white insert was added without shortening the shaft to compensate, your prop has been pushed back another inch or two from the strut/cutlass bearing. I believe that the guideline is to have no more than one shaft diameter of distance (1" in your case) between the front of the prop and the back of the strut, otherwise you may be susceptible to shaft wobble (especially with a bronze shaft). I think Maine Sail has written a lot about these issues, so go search around https://marinehowto.com .

I don't mean to make you nervous, everything is probably OK, but if you wanted some ideas I'm offering them. Feel free to ignore them if you prefer.

Yeah, it's one of these.  https://www.pyiinc.com/flexible-shaft-couplings.html 

I will check the gap as you mentioned, and I think the PYI also has a spec for the same thing.  I was wondering about the space between P bracket and prop.  When I read about that the first time, the gap looked suspiciously the same as the coupler...  I check the cutlass bearing every year and there is no play.  But... the engine has low hours on it.

123
Main Message Board / Re: Alarn Module Tone
« on: June 05, 2023, 06:58:53 PM »
pby : I don't know where you got your replacement "buzzer" (sounder) from , but I have always used "Radio Shake" to get my sounders from.  Unless you have one near you  - you can go on line to order one!! @ half the price !! I believe that you should have a steady tone!!

a few thoughts

I got it from Catalina Direct.  It was a direct replacement by the 'sounds' of it, but it doesn't seems to have the same internal wiring.  I replaced each terminal one by one to avoid messing it up!

124
Main Message Board / Re: Alarn Module Tone
« on: June 05, 2023, 06:57:06 PM »
Catalina direct does sell a new alarm for the engine panel that has two different tone patterns, one solid and one intermittent.  In the event you have the one with two tone patterns, it would appear you have wired it with the oil switch to the intermittent terminals.

It does seem to be what happened, however I replaced each terminal one at a time to avoid it being wrong!

125
Main Message Board / Re: Anchor light fixture
« on: June 04, 2023, 11:28:49 PM »
An anyone explain how to open the fixture for bulb change? The boat Le a1988.
Thanks,
Chris Slocum

On mine the clear lens unscrews.

126
Main Message Board / Alarn Module Tone
« on: June 04, 2023, 11:27:40 PM »
I replaced the alarm buzzer for a new buzzer as the old one was faint to non existant.  I replaced each terminal wire connection one at a time to ensure they went back to the correct location.

When the key is turned to ON but the engine is not started, the alarm is TONE, PAUSE, TONE, PAUSE.

Is this correct?  According to Catalina Direct it should be a solid TONE for low oil pressure.  But I replaced the connections one at a time, and I'm not sure what it SHOULD sound like.

https://www.catalinadirect.com/shop-by-boat/capri-26/electrical/alarm-module-dual-tone-engine-panel/

127

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>.

I was unsure based upon what I read elsewhere and called them.  I specifically asked them if it was required to register the vessel to visit the US from Canada, and told them I'm on Lake Ontario only, not going off shore, or anything where you'd enter international waters and enter the US.

They emphatically answered... register the vessel.

So call them back and ask "I am a legally licensed vessel not registered.  Can I cross Lake Ontario to the US and return as a licensed vessel in the province of Ontario?"

Look, pb, you're talking to Federal guys who "do" registration.  Like the "English" quandary of your original post, it's all semantics.

Yeah, I know.  It does come down to the question. Still, there is no mention of being able to enter the US that I've found other than non-government sites.

128
Main Message Board / Re: What's a healthy engine sound like?
« on: June 04, 2023, 11:13:32 PM »
pby--I'll add video of mine running soon for additional reference.  Here's a video of the first start of the season to show ease of starting of a 30+ year engine.  https://youtu.be/eWyPu0EdxJA

Nice!  Is it a Westerbeke?  Mine does the same thing, just fires right up after sitting all winter.  Not more than a few cranks and away she goes.

129
Main Message Board / Re: What's a healthy engine sound like?
« on: June 04, 2023, 11:09:06 PM »
pby : I don't think you have a problem!!

A gasoline auto engine always will idle much smoother than a diesel.
i would say your shaft movement is normal.
On your coolant leak - have you placed a fuel diaper under the engine?  Annual Loss of all of the fluid in the coolant recovery bottle is NOT normal. You have a leak!
I always adjusted the valves myself (with a helper) every 1000 hrs. 

A few thoughts

I agree.  I'm just not sure where the leak is.  I did notice a 1" diameter pool of coolant below the connection to the heat exchanger on the port side of the engine at the rear.  I'll have to get a photo.  I was installing an AIS system and noticed it with the boards in the aft cabin up.  Bascially if your looking at the rear of the engine approx. the point where the heat exchanger connection is, directly below it.

130
Main Message Board / Re: What's a healthy engine sound like?
« on: May 31, 2023, 06:32:34 PM »
pby : Sounds like a normal diesel to me!!  Is there any vibration?

and when was the last time you checked the valve clearance??

A few thoughts

Well there's what I'd say is normal vibration from a running engine. The engine moves a bit on the mounts, meaning it's not rock solid, it shimmy's at idle more than a car engine if that helps.

The only thing I would say is that when I shift into reverse to decelerate, after pausing in neutral, there's a shrudder and then it settles down. There is a variprop 3 blade on her, so I assumed the shrudder is normal as the blades move into reverse pitch, but....?

Also, you can see in the video with the transmission engaged that the stuffing box and shaft move ever so slightly.  Not a vibration, more a swaying motion.  No idea if that's an issue...

I also seem to find a couple of cups of antifreeze in the bilge, and the overflow bottle is empty in the spring after the winter.  Engine is full of coolant, and I just top it up and it doesn't happen during summer months.  Can't figure this one out.  I've tightened all the hose clamps I can see.

No I don't think the valves have ever been checked for clearance. I know I haven't done it in 3 years.

Sorry, there's a number of points here!

131
Main Message Board / Re: Cabin lights in forward cabin
« on: May 31, 2023, 02:24:52 PM »
Do you have voltage in the sockets?  If not maybe check the wiring from the breaker that runs forward.

Did it ever work?  Is there anything that changed between working and not working?

Unfortunately the schematic in the manual isn't specific about where it runs...

132
Main Message Board / What's a healthy engine sound like?
« on: May 31, 2023, 01:25:37 PM »
I've been reading with interest the thread on alternator belts and engine temp, and taking a look at my engine.  At 23 years old, but low hours (less than 900), it seems like it's in good shape, but I don't know what a diesel marine engine is supposed to sound like.  I have no reference, as compared to a car, which I know what is normal.

This may sound odd, but can I get some feedback on the way the engine 'sounds'?  There are 2 vids, one idiling and another with forward engaged at idle.  She's tied up at the dock still if that matters.

How does the old girl sound? Anything to look into?  Also, a couple of pics of the back of the engine, just in case!

Idle:
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/bQR5bexjS8Y

Idle Forward:
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/xhTce5ix298

133


>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>


If you leave Canadian waters you MUST register the vessel.  That's 2 departments...

That is simply NOT TRUE.

My boat is licensed in British Columbia and I visit the American San Juan islands with no problems.

A Canadian vessel needs to be either licensed (by a province) of registered (Federal) to operate in Canada.

Either a licensed or registered Canadian vessel can visit the US legally.

I believe you.  However, TC doesn't say that when you call them.  In fact the web site asks you if you're travelling outside of Canada, and points you to Registration.  No exceptions, and no information that it's not required for Can/USA.

See attached image. Now, if you didn't know what we know, you'd likely read 'To travel abroad and be recognized internationally as a registered vessel' and select 'yes'.   I was unsure based upon what I read elsewhere and called them.  I specifically asked them if it was required to register the vessel to visit the US from Canada, and told them I'm on Lake Ontario only, not going off shore, or anything where you'd enter international waters and enter the US.

They emphatically answered... register the vessel.

134
Main Message Board / Re: Equipment needed to tighten keel bolts
« on: May 31, 2023, 03:46:19 AM »
Congratulations. How far out of torque were they?

I didn't check specifically, but they all needed around a half turn, and the aft most probably 1 and a half.  The washer wasn't compressed.

135
Main Message Board / Re: Equipment needed to tighten keel bolts
« on: May 30, 2023, 09:06:01 PM »
Ok, job done.

Thank you to all here.  I couldn't have done it without your help.

In the end I used:
CT Torque Wrench with no pipe to extend.  It was close but I found a technique that made it doable.
20" extension.  This made it pretty easy to work with.
1/2" drive universal adapter
1-1/8" Sunex Deep Socket.  Absolutely critical.  Depth barely cleared the bolts.  Must have been a discount sale on keel bolts. Not sure why they are THAT long.
https://www.amazon.ca/Sunex-2-Inch-8-Inch-Impact-Socket/dp/B002YKK7X4/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=Sunex+236xd+1%2F2-Inch+Drive+1-1%2F8-Inch+Extra+Deep+Impact+Socket&qid=1682695866&sr=8-1

Basically, sit on the floor in a rowing position, put one hand on the wrench to extenstion 90 degree turn, other on the end of the wrench, and push and pull at the same time and row your way to 107lbs/ft.

The long extension makes this work.  A shorter one would have been brutal and likely would have needed something to extend the wrench.


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