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Messages - pbyrne

Quote from: Ron Hill on July 07, 2023, 01:40:54 PM
pby : My article gives you step by step how too - starting with what you need to remove to get things done!!  With a picture!!
You can get replacement fuel float gage mechanisms from Defender, West Marine etc at a much lower cost $$ than Catalina Direct!!

A few thoughts

Is this it?
Quote from: Breakin Away on July 07, 2023, 10:58:09 AM
Another trick: Take a 1x3 or 1x4 piece of wood (about a foot long) or similar. When you loosen the bolt on the alternator, the easiest way to move it is to put the end of the wood against it and gently tap with a hammer. then re-tighten the bolt before re-tensioning the belt.

I'm finding that a new belt loses its tension pretty quickly as it runs in. I've gone from 60-70 lb down to 40 lb a couple of times with my new belt. I'm still re-adjusting it to get it to stay at 60-70. Next time I have a new belt, I'd start at around 90 lb and watch to see if it drops to 60-70.

Good idea!  How are you measuring the pressure?
Quote from: Ron Hill on July 05, 2023, 04:44:35 PM
pby : It sounds like your float machoism "Ist Kaput"!  Look in the Mainsheet tech notes for my Mainsheet article on replacing the fuel float switch. There a ton of stuff in WiKi about the fuel gage and float system. 

Also remember that the fuel tank is asymmetrical so you will NEVER have an exact accurate float gage reading.   :cry4`

Do as Jim suggests and use the clock and fuel consumption rather than the gage.

A few thoughts

Thank you! I will look it up.  Do you know where I could order a new one from?  Sounds like I might need one..
Quote from: Noah on July 05, 2023, 05:01:59 PM
Once you get that aware that due to our tanks NOT being square, the gauge is only "correct" when it reads 100% full and 100% empty.😎

LOL Noted!
Quote from: KWKloeber on July 05, 2023, 04:53:34 PM
In this order:

1) Check the gauge -- I had put the Teleflex gauge technical/troubleshooting guide on the Wiki; in the engine section.

     If the gauge checks out Ok then:

2) Remove the sender wire from the tank float -- the gauge should bottom out below Empty.  Ground the sender wire to a known good ground -- the gauge should pin above Full.

     If the gauge doesn't respond correctly then:

3) The problem could be that the sender wire is shorted to ground somewhere -- check the harness.

     If the gauge responds correctly then:

4) Remove the fuel level sender to check it's action and whether it is shorted-out and needs replacing.

Excellent! Thank you, fix by numbers is perfect for me.  :D
It's like you read my mind.  I was staring at the engine this weekend debating how to approach this very topic.

Much appreciated!
Maybe my setup will be useful for you.  We are on the St Lawrence River. 

2 x 200 ah (400ah) AGM
2 x 110W Sunpower Flexible
1 x Victron 100/20 Smart Solar Controller
1 x Victron BVM

House batteries do starting as well.

Alternator is stock for a 35B.

We run the fridge 24/7 set to 3-4 on the dial if I recall.  Chilled or frozen food to start the trip is an excellent idea.

I also run the Vesper Cortex VHF/AIS 24/7 for anchor alarm.

Assuming at dusk, the battery is 100%, by morning the lowest I've seen is 85-90% charge.

For fans I have a couple of rechargable portable fans that you can move around the boat to wherever you want them.  I went rechargable for 2 reasons, 1 you charge them during the day and store the energy to use at night which puts no additional drain on the battery at night, and 2 you can move them to the cockpit if you want.  Maybe 3 is as an emergency wind device for calm days... probably not though.

I think these are even better than what I have.  I just ordered one.

We do movie night with a laptop and use an external power supply with enough ah rating to carry the laptop for at least 3 hours, and the monitor is a 27inch unit that draws less than 18W.

All interior lights are LED, and so is the anchor light.

I'm mindful of the charge at all times, but I've never had an issue. 

I've leaned towards conservation as much as possible as it's pretty easy to do on the boat, and more batteries, chargers, solar, alternators are way more money. 

But.... maybe you would like more power.

Excellent discussion, however could I kindly point back to my original list of questions?  There's no where I trust more than the fine folks here.
Quote from: Breakin Away on July 06, 2023, 03:10:05 PM


Your anchor locker design is totally different from mine. Pretty surprising for a boat that's the same model year, and only 35 hulls later. Are you the original owner? If so, did you request a special upgrade for your windlass, or did Catalina make a running design change?

My locker hinges are on the port side, latch on starboard, and my water tank opening is to port, but under the hatch. My Maxwell 500 windlass with capstan is horizontally mounted on the starboard side with a single foot switch (up only). I'll try to get a picture of it, but right now I'm 800 miles away.

I'm curious what configuration pbyrne has on his boat. If it's the same Maxwell 500 as mine, it (and the chain gypsy upgrade option) have long since been discontinued. I've read about many people searching for the gypsy upgrade unsuccessfully. (I probably read it here, but maybe on another forum.) Never hurts to try to find one, though.

Wonder no more! Sorry, bit dirty, I was cleaning up that day.  Mine is exactly as you describe and Jim's is the superior solution.  Clearly Catalina knew of the issues as that is a significant change in implementation.  Fibreglass, deck fittings, windlass.  Everything...
Quote from: Ron Hill on July 05, 2023, 03:10:03 PM
pby : My motor harness is a simple 1" nylon strap that "figure 8s" around the motor and is secured at the end in a metal clip !!

A thought

Interesting.  Do you have a picture?  I think I get it.  Does the eight cross over on the leg under the motor, and you clip the two ends of the eight together at the top of the engine with a clip?

Where did you get the webbing?
Quote from: Breakin Away on July 05, 2023, 12:36:53 PM
I have no specific reason to think these other windlasses won't work for you, but be sure to verify all measurements on your own boat. Things that will fit on the MkI and Mk1.5 boats may not fit the same in the MkII anchor locker. This is a precaution that many of us MkII owners have to take for much of the advice offered by other C34 owners here and on Facebook.

FWIW, my boat has a very short chain that makes it easy to haul in by hand. I also have a Mantus 35 lb anchor. I used to keep a few wraps of Gorilla tape (very heavy duct tape) around my capstan to allow for cranking in the chain without damaging the chrome. I'd have to replace it every 3 or 4 uses. You might consider that.

I have also gotten rid of the thimble and shackle and instead spliced the nylon rode directly to the chain. That allows it to pass through both the roller and (if necessary) around the capstan.

More recently, my normal procedure in calm conditions and soft mud bottoms is 1) haul in nylon rode manually to get as close to 1:1 scope as possible 2) go eat breakfast while the anchor loosens up (with anchor alarm on and/or watching the horizon for drift) 3) go forward and break the anchor free using the windlass and continue cranking the anchor until chain reaches the capstan 4) pull chain manually until anchor is at the surface 5) manually pull the anchor up and drop down repeatedly until most mud has dropped off the scoop (often done while my wife slowly motors the boat out of the anchorage) and 6) haul in the last bit of chain by hand. This method takes advantage of the lighter nylon rode, and minimizes our dependence on the windlass, so that we've practiced for the day when it ultimately fails.

If I'm in a heavier wind, I either use the windlass for step 1 or have my wife drive the boat toward the anchor while I pull it in manually.

Some people need a lot of chain, especially if anchoring in rocky areas where nylon rode could chafe, but I only anchor in soft Chesapeake mud. Fortunately I've never had to crank in a whole bunch of weeds. I can imagine how that is frustrating and frightening.

Your calm weather process is exactly what we've been doing, prior to moving to the weed zone.  I did wrap the capstan with a self amalgating tape. It was in the chandlery, black, wide and can be used to wrap hoses in a pinch etc.  Seemed tougher than Gorilla tape.  The 8 plait worked okay, but when we got to lifting the anchor and the weed bush the chain destroyed it.  Maybe Gorilla tape being adhesive would have at least kept the tape in place.

The issue is being able to lift the anchor/chain and a massive lump of weeds, and hold it all one handed while you secure the chain with a hook/snubber to clear it; in wind!  It's a 2 handed job just heaving the chain...

The 8 plait is spliced to the chain as you mentioned.  That did work well. My chain to anchor shackle got stuck in the bow roller, and I've got a Mantus shackle on order which has a short bolt instead of a pin proturding, and I've switched the bail bolts to bolt with a low rounded profile head as well.  If that doesn't work I'm going to probably buy the Mantus swivel or something similar that is a narrow profile.  I can't help but wonder if the bow roller shouldn't have been a bit wider.

Yeah it was getting pretty desperate...I was almost at reanchoring and evaluating options to wait out the wind.
Main Message Board / Re: Cockpit Cushions
July 05, 2023, 12:12:42 PM
Quote from: girmann on July 05, 2023, 11:34:46 AM
It looks like it's been a few years since this was discussed the last time, so I figured I would bring it up here. Especially since it looks like Bottom Siders is out of business

Is there a consensus on which is better in the cockpit, closed cell or open cell foam cushions? We like to use our cushions both sailing and at rest. I was originally looking at Catalina Direct, but as I did more research, I found tons more manufacturers... C Cushions, Catalina Owners, Foam Order, and The Foam Shop, just to name a few.

They all seem to have the same types of cushions, just different options built around two themes: Vinyl and open cell foam, or Sunbrella and closed cell foam. 

Anyone have any thoughts about the manufacturers or whether open or closed cell is the right choice?

Mola Mola #1488

My .02 cents is closed cell.  Open cell will absorb water.  To be honest other than to nap on the full length cushions are more trouble than they are worth.  When hustling around the cockpit under sail, they can slip when standing on them, and they are a pain to store.  We just use the folding seats with the adjustable backs.  Much easier to work with.

BUT... the full length is nicer for company or to sleep on!
Just installed the Garhauer engine lift, and now looking for a good outboard harness to lift with.

I've noticed that the Davis one has a metal 'bar' handle and not a place to connect the lift to as an attachment point.  This type of harness seems to be good for manually moving the engine but not for a lift.

Any suggestions on a good sturdy harness for the outboard for the new lift?
My lovely wife and I were out in the Kingston area and anchored overnight in one of the recommended bays for first timers like us.

We thought we had a good location, about 15 ft, plenty of room, good leeway for dragging, and perfectly calm weather overnight growing to 10 kts mid morning.

All went well until we tried to retrieve the anchor.  The wind didn't help, but we're a good team, and she drove the boat well while I tried to hand retrieve the anchor.

We brought up a small bush of weeds; so much I couldn't get the anchor fully onto the bow roller before cleating it off.

It was a very close thing, as I almost wasn't able to get the chain, anchor, and probably 15lbs of weeds on board. For this area I'm being told there are a LOT of weeds. 

I did what I could to pause, cleat the rode/chain off and clear the weeds as I brought it in but the sheer weight of it all and fighting the winds meant this was the absolute worst experience anchoring the boat we've ever had, and I think it's a safety issue.

The drum windlass that came with the boat, won't work for us.  IMHO, it's a ridiculously unsafe system for a boat this size, to handle any conditions.  If you don't have weeds, like we didn't in the past its workable I guess.  We also have a 35lbs Mantus, 5/16 chain which I acknowledge adds weight.

I've been reading over the threads,9609.30.html and,11188.msg88997.html#msg88997.

I have a few questions:

1 - is it the VW10-8 or RC that is a better choice?
2 - Is this a direct replacement wiring wise.  I noted some people up rated the wiring. (I'm trying to keep this simple)
3 - It looks like a spacer is needed as per Noah,11188.msg88997.html#msg88997.  Any suggestion on how to make one or deal with the offset differently?  I could probably get something 3D printed locally if I knew the spec.
4 - Up/Down functionality.  I would prefer a hand held wired in the locker as a Primary, wireless as a secondary.  Any suggestions on what would work for a wired, and wireless setup?
5 -Breaker changes?

Bottom line is I need the machinery to retrieve the anchor and I manage it.  It's physically demanding, and IMHO unsafe so this is something I need to address.