Messages

I did call CD and they had a 2 MONTH turnaround for the stemhead! I'll give Garhauer a call on Monday. I have, however closely inspected the fitting and it looks to be in great shape, no corrosion or overt pitting/ cracking. I'm doing a dye penetrant test now to see if I find any hidden easter eggs. If I don't, I'm leaning toward putting the old one back on the boat (Great Lakes freshwater boat for its entire life until last week).

I got it removed this morning, pretty easy thanks to the above recomendation. I popped off the rubrail around the bow (no heat needed), removed about 15 screws from the aluminum trim and released the section from the bow, which then provided plenty of room to remove the stemhead. Next challenge is sending it to CD and getting a new one made in a reasonable amount of time.
I'm going to re-bed the bow roller as well while there is space up there. I think it's got a small leak

Sounds like a great idea. I'll give that a try. Thanks!

Pulling and replacing the stemhead as I'm doing a complete rigging refit. Got all the bolts out, but can't get it past the rubrail. Does that have to be removed? I REALLY don't want to have to do that

This guy has done a really good 2 part video on the topic. Cool to watch such a dedicated craftsman, even if you aren't doing the prop

https://youtu.be/2ozh4JjoWm4

Jeff, yep I saw that. I wasn't aware of it either.

All interesting info. Can either/both of you share the cost of these various prop options? Also Jeff is the prop you ordered a Michigan Wheel or???

Noah, $595 for the Cambell Sailer

[I would suggest a 3 blade RH 13.0" diameter x 9.0" pitch (13x9)]

I just got a quote from West By North for a new prop. Mainesail recommends this particular brand and manufacturer. I sent them my boat info and here is the recommendation he sent me. I had read extensively on this site about the great prop debate and saw that the consensus was 15x10. They however, are recommending a 13x9. Below is the e-mail I just received from the company. Any thoughts?


"Hi Timothy,

Thank you for your interest in the Campbell Sailer propeller.

This recommendation assumes the Catalina 34 on the Universal M-25XP engine (23hp @ 3200 RPM). We're also assuming a Hurth HBW-50 transmission with a ratio of 2.05 to 1. Shaft diameter is 1.0 inch.

Based on this I would suggest a 3 blade RH 13.0" diameter x 9.0" pitch (13x9). This size is recommended to give you a good cruising rpm and still have reserve for head wind and seas.

The Campbell Sailer has cupped blades and a leading edge foil. This produces greater thrust and reduces the slip rate. To account for this we often size smaller than other manufacturers for a given installation.

The Campbell Sailer offers the perfect balance between powering, maneuvering and low drag performance. It's the lowest drag fixed 3 blade on the market. Up to 35-40% less drag when compared to equivalent size units from other manufacturers. The Campbell prop is renown for how smooth it runs throughout the entire RPM range.

This is a benchmarked installation for us. Last customer on the Catalina 34 / M-25XP @ 2.05 was very happy with the 13x9 Campbell Sailer prop. He could get 3200 RPM at max and a boat speed of 6.5kts cruising at 2700 RPM.

We would be happy to discuss this recommendation in further detail or answer any questions you may have."

Jon, I'm kind of leaning toward replacing it. I looked on CD's site and the lowers were all 1/4". Did you have everything made custom? How much did it cost, if you don't mind my asking?

This is a timely post as I was just thinking of the same thing. My question....I'm having my boat shipped to the Jacksonville, FL area from MI this summer as we are permanently relocating there. Since the mast will be stepped and all the rigging will be off the boat, would I be dumb not to replace the standing rigging at this time? I was planning on being on the hard to re-do the bottom paint and change the prop before I launch, and am in no huge hurry because of hurricane season. My boat is a 1989, and I have no idea if the standing rigging has ever been replaced. I've only owned it for a year.

Thanks for all the input. I was thinking of just using the fuse as well. Realistically, I'll be the only one ever working on the boat, so I will know that I have to remove it to service the engine. Maybe I''l make a placard for the engine compartment as a reminder

Stu, yes quite extensively over the past year.

1. I figured it wouldn't fit in the engine compartment, was just wondering where others have installed it.
2. After a several hours of tracing and studying the rat's nest today, I got the back of the panel cleaned up considerably. I traced all the wires, and added a neg bus bar to better organize the wiring. The PO had reds, yellows, blacks all mixed together, and not necessarily correctly, so I re-wired the incorrect stuff today and tested out the components successfully. I just wanted to make sure I wasn't missing something before I re-introduced power as the schematics didn't look anything like what I had on the boat

Thanks again for all the info

I'm in the process of re-doing my electrical system based on some excellent templates and advice from here, and MaineSail's various posts. Couple of things that came up today...

1. I'm wiring the alternator direct to my new battery bank and was looking for a spot to mount an alternator service disconnect switch in the eng compartment, and it looks like there is NO room anywhere for it. Has anyone installed one, and if so, where?

2. I'm trying to do a little cleanup behind my DC panel before I tackle replacing the whole thing next year. I mounted a Neg Bus bar on the hull behind the panel to re-route the ground wires there. Is there a neg ground wire for the DC panel itself, or just each individual component circuit that runs to the panel for switching? It is quite the rat's nest back there and I want to make sure I get everything. In my factory wiring diagram, there are 2 #10 red wires that run from the "C" post on the switch to a neg bus bar. What are these wires for?
Thanks!

We're considering making a move from Michigan down to Jacksonville, FL, Specifically Fruit Cove in St John's County. Anyone know how the sailing is down there, marinas, etc? Any recommended changes to the boat for going from freshwater to saltwater? Thanks!

Regarding the "2 Switch Option" for wiring the batteries. Does the cable from the #2 post on the ON/OFF/Both to the OFF post on the ON/OFF switch (or starter) get a fuse?