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Messages - TortolaTim

#31
Main Message Board / Re: Replacing standing rigging
September 25, 2021, 10:19:29 AM
I replaced mine last fall. 1989 boat, mast was down. Total cost was $7800, including $2000 for a new furler (mine was obsolete and no parts were available), and $560 for an entire spool of line to replace all the halyards. I still have a bunch left over. Replaced everything except chain plates. I removed them, polished and inspected, and re-fitted. I hired a professional rigger in NE Florida to fabricate all of the new rigging and install everything. (I did assist-went up the mast, etc.) He called me later and offered me a job! LOL!
Anyway, it wasn't cheap, but I'm glad I did it. I relocated the boat from Michigan to Florida, and while everything was apart decided to do the job. I want to know what I have onboard since I'll be sailing in the ocean now.
#32
Main Message Board / Re: Recent hot running of M-25xp
September 09, 2021, 02:57:36 PM
Speaking of thermostats...what's the consensus on replacement interval? I don't see it anywhere in the engine manual
#33
Main Message Board / Re: Throttle Speed Adjustment
August 24, 2021, 12:36:35 PM
Update on the RPM discrepancy. We took the boat out and compared laser tach with cockpit. Most RPM settings only varied by a 50 or less, full throttle (obtained by me moving the throttle on the engine) was 3000. Looks like I just need to adjust the cable so the throttle on the binnacle can move the lever (engine)  all the way to open. Looks like all is well. Thanks for the info! Now on to the next project!
#34
Main Message Board / Re: Throttle Speed Adjustment
August 13, 2021, 10:42:09 AM
Ron, yes I'm going to compare tach RPM Vs Laser tach next week when I get home. Just ordered one from Amazon. My concern is more about whether I've been actually making the published 3000-3200
at WOT. It's always shown about 25 or 26 on the factory tach.
I'm on my way to Europe right now, so after I get back Monday take it out and check with the laser. I'll write down the RPM corrections and report my findings.

Thanks all for the advice
#35
Main Message Board / Re: Throttle Speed Adjustment
August 13, 2021, 05:12:59 AM
Can the RPM test be done in neutral at the dock, or should it be under load out on the water in gear?
#36
Main Message Board / Throttle Speed Adjustment
August 12, 2021, 02:14:41 PM
I have an '89 with the M25XP. Manual says 3200 is the max RPM. I was perusing the forum here and read a bunch of threads about cruise RPM and speeds, etc. I realized that my tach reads 25-2600 RPM at WOT. I'm pretty sure that's the way it's been since I've owned the boat (2 years). I know the tach can be less than accurate, so I ordered a laser tach from amazon to see what it's actually turning.
My question is...If it is indeed turning this lower speed, is it just a matter of adjusting the throttle set screw on the engine until it's reaching 3000-3200? I looked at it and it has plenty of room to be adjusted for the throttle to open wider. Secondly...can this be done at the dock in neutral, or should I be in gear out on the water? The engine runs very well other than this. I've not had any issues with it at all.  TIA!
Tim
#37
Main Message Board / Re: Adler Barbor problems
February 14, 2021, 10:46:57 AM
Thanks for all the tips. I'm, pretty sure the unit is toast. It's pretty close to 30 years old and I've tried everything except to connect a battery directly to the control module. I'll probably give that a try this week, but I'm probably going to start shopping for a new system. I'm liking what I'm hearing about the new ones being more efficient, lower Amperage drain, and quieter.
#38
Main Message Board / Adler Barbor problems
February 11, 2021, 11:48:21 AM
I've real through all the fridge follies and 101 topics, and printed out the long troubleshooting checklist here on the forum...Here's where I'm at

I have the older Adler Barbor with the 4-pin Danfoss controller (no LED lights) I'd put it between 25-20 years old
Fridge quit working, the wiring was a complete mess, so I did as recommended here and re-wired everything properly, upgrading from 12 AWG to 8 AWG marine wire, properly crimped, heat shrink, etc.
Fridge still doesn't work, checked voltage at controller, solid 13 V. Every time I turn it on, the 15 A fuse on the controller blows instantly.
I bypassed the thermostat, same problem. The checklist directs one to disconnect the 4 pin from the compressor, then try again. Bingo! No blown fuse. Kollmann suggests that that probably indicates a bad compressor. So, do I just chuck the thing and consider it toast and buy a new system, or is there ANYTHING else anyone can think of to try before I drop $1500 of the Admiral's money on a new unit.
#39
Noah, where did you get that Sunbrella  cover for the mast  base? Did you make it? If so, I'd love some details please!
Additionally, I have Spartite on my mast installed by a PO and it works pretty well. It was a "little" hassle re-installing the mast, but not too bad at all. Is it any better than wood wedges? I can't say.
#40
Main Message Board / Stern Squat
November 28, 2020, 10:46:15 AM
I just got my boat back in the water after moving to FL. Replaced standing rigging, new bottom paint, moved start battery aft, and switched to a new 3 blade prop. I motored 12 miles today in the river to my new slip and noticed the stern sitting low in the water. I ran below to make sure I wasn't taking on water, and thankfully, everything was dry. I think maybe the torque from the prop upgrade is changing the trim of the boat perhaps? I was running at 2500 RPM, 6-6.2 KTS boat speed, and the water was up to the bilge pump outlet on the transom, which puts the exhaust port under water. No fresh water in either tank, no extra weight astern. Has anyone ever seen this before? Is it a problem if the exhaust is under the water? There were 2 of us sitting on the stern rail seats too, but I've never noticed this before and we sit there all the time.
#41
Main Message Board / Re: Stemhead Removal
October 27, 2020, 08:40:16 AM
First picture is the original stem, next 2 are the new replacement.
#42
Main Message Board / Re: Stemhead Removal
October 27, 2020, 03:31:28 AM
Ken, yes I sent the old one to Garhauer for a template and they have the same angle when I laid them side by side. I brought both stems to the boat yesterday and it appears that the old one has a similar gap. I wonder if it just wasn't stuffed with sealant to fill the gap. I'm going back today and looking at it again and asking my rigger to take a look at it. I'll try to get some better pictures too.
#43
Main Message Board / Re: Stemhead Removal
October 26, 2020, 05:54:32 AM
I finally got the new stem from Garhauer and it appears that it doesn't fit properly. First, the 2 holes on the top are off by about an inch. Not a HUGE problem, as I'm okay with refilling the original deck holes with West System and drilling new holes to match. However, the front of the stem appears to have quite a gap between the fitting and the leading edge of the bow. I know there was a decent amount of 4200 stuffed in there on my old one, but this looks like an excessively large gap to me. When I compare it to my old one, they look to be the same angle. Has anyone had the same issue when installing a new stem?
#44
Main Message Board / Re: Looking for CNG tank
September 29, 2020, 05:20:37 AM
Ok, where are you guys getting your tanks filled? I'm in NE Florida now and haven't found anyone who has CNG down here yet. Detroit and Miami are the only suppliers I've found.
#45
Main Message Board / Re: Stemhead Removal
September 15, 2020, 10:12:20 AM
Doug at Garhauer said he can turn it around in about a week. MUCH better than the 7-8 weeks CD told me. I FedEx'ed it to them today. Quoted $175 for the piece vs $225 at CD.