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Messages - TortolaTim

#16
Main Message Board / Re: Main sail type
January 16, 2023, 01:46:11 PM
Having taken a closer look, I think it is indeed an attached foot sail. You can definitely tell that the bolt rope has been slid in and out of the groove based on the wear and metal residue on the material. I just need to get a year or so out of it, as I'll probably spring for a set of new sails next year. Thanks for the replies!
#17
Main Message Board / Main sail type
January 13, 2023, 10:35:46 AM
I have a wonky aftermarket furling main (which I despise) and am finally getting around to putting the old, original main back on the boat. It's been in a bag since I've owned it. So, dumb question, but I can't tell if it's attached or loose footed. It has what appears to be a bolt rope sewn into the foot, but the foot has a definite curve cut into it, making me wonder if it's not loose footed. Wouldn't an attached foot sail have a straight cut foot to slide into the boom slot?
#18
Main Message Board / Panel AC indicator lights
February 15, 2022, 05:03:50 AM
I was reading up on reverse polarity and AC power issues here and realized that neither of my AC panel lights have been working (at least the green "available" light doesn't, polarity checks good at the dock and on board). The PO had the green one disconnected, so I wired it up yesterday, and re-wired the red RP light with proper connectors. Before I order new lamps from Blue Sea, does it matter which lead is attached to neutral or hot/ neutral or ground? Both wires are the same, and I just guessed. I'll probable go out and test them both with DC just to make sure, but I'm inclined to think they are burned out. I also wired up the yellow "DC available" lamp and it is toast. 1989 boat.

Secondly, I only have the "in panel" 30A double pole breaker, and want to install the breaker at the shore power inlet per ABYC code. Any recommendations on a reasonable product for this? I was looking at the Blue Sea ELCI breaker with the waterproof box and it's like $800 bucks! What is everybody else doing?
#19
Ken, Great info, thanks! Yes, my plan is to do as you said, eliminate the "bush league" spade connectors, and yep, they are EVERYWHERE. BTW, the alarm "+" is connected after the key switch, not to the run from the battery.
Cheers!
#20
Ken, great points, thanks! I should clarify where I wired the alarm "+". I didn't take it all the way to the key switch. My gauges are all "daisy chained" together with the old original automotive style crimp terminals. The alarm was connected to the end of the daisy chain. I jumped it to the beginning, so the current is flowing directly through new properly crimped heat shrink marine wire to the alarm. A lot of the distribution at the panel uses these AutoZone double spade connectors. (They are everywhere behind the main DC panel too) I'm guessing that eliminating these guys is a priority in cleaning up the wiring?
#21
<<Follow Up>>
I cleaned up, re-crimped, and replaced some of the wires at the engine panel. I wired the alarm "+" directly to the "+" wire coming up from the battery to the panel. Still no alarm. I replaced the alarm. It works now, and is loud enough to wake up the whole marina! I'm glad I dug into this project, as I'm now MUCH more familiar with the workings behind the panel, and will eventually re-wire the entire thing. While I was in there, I did properly re-crimp the wires to and from the start switch, they were looking pretty rough. Thanks for all the help!
#22
Ken, I'll check the batt V when I get back, but I'm sure it's good. It is fairly new and I keep it charged up through an ACR. The start panel wiring, however, is the original with the old automotive type crimps and terminals. I am planning on re-wiring it all in time, but maybe I'll see it there's some bad ones and replace them now. Thanks again. I'll report back.
#23
Ken, before I replaced the switch (single terminal) I bypassed it by grounding the alarm itself to my panel ground. It went off. I also cleaned all the terminals and checked voltage at the panel. Ops check good. Checked continuity from the ring terminal that screws into the switch to the wire at the panel. Checked good as well. After replacing the oil press switch, alarm worked. Went out the next day and it didn't work. Ran the engine today for a few minutes, when I shut it off, the alarm worked again. The ONLY other thing I can come up with is that the voltage to the alarm tested at 11.5-11.6V. Is that enough of a drop to make the alarm only work intermittently? Voltage at the key switch itself was 12. I ordered a new alarm. I'm going to install it, AND wire the alarm pos directly to the key switch. Right now it is daisy chained to one of the gauges.
#24
Tom, my alarm had been inop since I bought the boat 2.5 years ago. The switch wasn't leaking, it was just the next logical step in my troubleshooting. Well, the alarm worked a few days ago when I installed the new switch. Yesterday I went out sailing...and voila! No alarm! The warning lights continued to work, but that's it. I went back today, took the panel out and did some voltage testing, everything is fine. I tried to short the switch and it wouldn't work. 20 minutes later when I started the engine....it worked again! I came home today and ordered a new alarm. I checked literally everything else, so I'm out of ideas. I'm not sure how the thing could work one day and not work the next!
#25
I have a post script for the OP's question. I replaced my oil pressure switch yesterday. I used a 1/2' drive 11/16 short socket => 1/2 to 3/8 adapter => short 3/8 drive extension to a 3/8 ratchet. I reached it from the little access door in the lav. Very easy, took about 10 minutes. I got the switch at a kubota dealer, $25 bucks. Westerbeke wanted $50! My alarm hadn't been working since I bought the boat, finally got around to really troubleshooting it. It was the switch. Working like a charm now. Thanks to all who post all the great knowledge here! I'll eventually add the gauge as discussed above, but I really wanted the alarm working properly for the time being.
#26
Ken, yeah I was wondering about that hose. I looked it up on WB's website and it's 70 bucks, just for the hose! Add in the other bits and I think one is in for a couple hundred, easy. I wonder if some hi temp fuel line attached to a barb on either end would be sufficient. Then, of course the length would be customizable. Any thoughts?
#27
Ron, yes I meant voltmeter;-)
Noah, I do have the engine temp alarm installed
Ken, thanks for the info. I will definitely start running down those parts.
#28
On the subject of oil pressure switches, has anyone "Tee'd" the switch and added an oil press gauge? I was thinking of replacing the ammeter gauge with one. Suggestions on parts/ sizes, etc?
#29
Main Message Board / Mast Cleat
November 23, 2021, 01:02:54 PM
Do any of you guys have your genoa halyard cleated off on the mast? I'm thinking of doing it to free up a clutch on the cabin top for 2-line reefing. I was doing some reading on cruisers forum and a bunch of them were talking about riveting a small plate of aluminum to the mast to thicken the amount of aluminum that the machine screws "bite" thus securing the cleat more effectively. One even suggested "through-bolting" I think this sounds like complete overkill, but am I missing something here? Seems to me that based on the direction of force from a cleated halyard would be relatively low and 2 high quality stainless machine screws would be sufficient, but I'm just a pilot, not an engineer.  :D
#30
Main Message Board / Re: Replacing standing rigging
September 26, 2021, 08:51:52 AM
I agree with wingman on replacing the stemhead fitting as well. HOWEVER, I'd go with Garhauer and not CD. CD gets them from Garhauer and doubles the price before selling it to you. They quoted me a 3 month wait as well. I called Garhauer and had a new one 2 weeks after sending them mine as a template. I highly recommend using them. They are awesome.