Messages

image resize test

Join link is fix.  Thanks for the heads up on that.

High resolution images of things like wiring diagrams would probably best be places in the wiki and then the page linked to from here:
http://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=Electrical  (and/or the manuals section) .

Ken, I can get that link that you've shown to show up on my account (or when I'm not logged in) so ... unless this is wide spread maybe best just not to click on the + symbol.  ;)        Actually I think I found it buried under some sort of admin new section.  Who knew that was down there.

-d

Stu just pointed this out to me today.  My guess is that a security patch I put in a week or so ago blew away our custom html.
Back to slamming some html down inside their php code.  The links have been updated to handle the new mods to our site... they may not all
be there but the important ones are.... like getting back to the top level!

I'm not sure about that 'news' link... I don't see that now, not sure where that comes from - old news?

-d

One more thing to check while you're working on the steering cables is the ends connected to the steering chain. 

Years back (in the middle of a race) my steering failed at that connection point.  The wire rope thimble had cracked and the sharp cornered shackles that Edison used to connect to the steering chain had eaten through the wire rope (after first cracking the thimble).

One would think that since Edison specializes in steering systems they would have used a forged shackle... but this was 1988 - not sure what they do on their newer systems.

Anyway while you're in there take a peak... (clean lube as well).  Edison has a video on replacing the cable https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n0XozwM3lEo
Not much to see though they do use tracers to help feed the wire back through the pedestal when reassembling.

So my wife has me on a low carb diet... no popcorn.  What else can I use my microwave for?

Heating up coffee! 

Great thread...

My dodger has three snap on panels that protect the isinglass.  They are a bit of a pain to snap on and don't keep the water from running under them and onto the isinglass which along with age has clouded it over the years.

On my next dodger (which is needed)  I was thinking of opting for a full single cover.  It might cost a little more up front but when it needs replacing in 10+ my dodger should still look like new.

The worn bolt holds the mast cap in place... or keeps it lined up where it should be to let the forestay and the backstay do all the pulling down.  I'd like to think if it had failed the mast cap would have stayed in place but to Ron's point it might have gotten interesting real quick.

Just below this bolt, less that a foot, is the bolt that goes through the mast that connects to (along with 2 tangs) the upper shrouds.  Inside of the mast is an aluminum compression tube that was also partially worn through by this halyard (yup wrong side of that as well).

I guess little things can cause big trouble if they go unnoticed long enough.

I had to pull my keel stepped mast to replace a split/jammed sheave and do few other things.  When I pulled the mast cap off I was surprised to see that the main halyard was run over top of the bolt that holds the mast cap on, then angled slightly incorrectly on the wrong side through bolt that holds the cap shrouds on and then on the wrong side of the spreader bar.  I'm guessing it's been like this for 15-20+ years.  Previous owners!

With the new ball bearing sheaves I can finally raise the main from the cockpit by hand!

Pictures tell the story... the 2nd image is inside of the mast cap which show the route the halyard took over the bolt.

The "easy" fix for this if you think your halyard may be misrun is to remove the mast cap bolt, the halyards should fall into place with a little tension and then reinsert the bolt.  

I'm still using a 180 thermostat ... nearly 5 years after my last post in this thread. (I'm choosing not to start yet another thread on this subject)

Running at 180 seems to work fine but I have noticed a hard whitish buildup (salt/calcium?) where the hoses enter/exit the heat exchanger
which needs to be chipped away every time I'm changing the zinc (or ever other time if I'm changing my zinc as often as I should). 
Eventually the buildup can restrict the water flow... maybe starting around 150 hours of run time. 

Has anyone else see this buildup in their heat exchangers?  I'm wondering if I swapped back to my 160 thermostat I wouldn't have to pull the caps off
and clean this buildup off.  (And if the engine would burn as clean - does 20 degree change in coolant temperature = 20 in combustion temp or only a few degrees?)

If anyone else is seeing buildup running at 160-165 I'm going to stay at 180.

Here's Ron's article (May 2002 Mainsheet) in the Wiki http://www.c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=Raw_water_pump,_impellers_and_cooling_system

Local/Direct BBS search should be working for all again.

I put a simple T just above the stopcock on my sink drain and connected
the fresh water line to the toilet there.

I normally leave the stopcock closed and flush the toilet by running water in the sink
and pumping it through.

If I want to use sea water or drain the sink overboard I just open the stopcock.

Works well...    as far the anti-siphon valve I always thought there were suppose
to go between the pump and the bowl to the valve is under pressure when the
bowl is being pumped and drains when you stop pumping.

Best thing I've done lately is replace the entire pump unit (everything but the bowl)
which I found at nearly the same cost a pump rebuild kit. 

I have an open trouble ticket with our web hosting company.  They updated their servers
and broke the spell check.   They don't seem to be getting very far fixing it.

Side note: Not a fan IE though better than it used to be.  Can't believe it doesn't
come with a built-in spell checker.   Everyone has their own favorite.  I used FireFox
for years but have switched to Chrome  ->  http://google.com/chrome
Fast, secure ... regularly and automatically updated for security & features.

I don't have a pic but maybe I can answer a few questions.

- Under load from the sheet the car wants to slide aft
- The blocks go at the forward end of the track with a screw to lock into the track
- The swivel cam holds the control line, swivels for convenience.

I have a bungee going from the cam to the car and then back to cam.
Worked  fine for a few years but could use replacing.

I'm using 3/8 which is nice on the hand but does have
a bit of friction.  Not a big problem since I'm not
adjusting that much but 5/16 would run smoother.

My traveler came with 3/8" and as Stu mentioned the lines have
swollen and stiffened with age causing quite a bit of friction.  

Time to replace and I'm going to be looking for something a bit
smaller, either 9mm or 5/16.   Time to look at a single braid
I think ... flexible, easy on the hand.  But which one...