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I have an M25XP and the cover is reusable.

My guess is the other c34 engine types also have
a reusable gasket.

So many options...  even on shore power.

I keep my shore power on 24/7 because of my 12v fridge
which cycles 5 amps about 1/2 time.

I have the Truecharge20 setup with a couple golf cart batts
for the house and a separate starting battery with some
nice sized cables running between.

The start battery is normally disconnected from the
shore charger (it was being over charged from the cycling)
and I keep it it shape with regular use.  (I've thought about
an echo charger.)

Lately I've put my charger back to three stage (bulk/absorb/float)
because the house batteries didn't seem to be charging enough
without the float stage.  It seems to be doing better... and not
overcharging at this point.  

Are there any good/easy options when there is a continuous cycling source?


I wish my fridge had a 120 option... or beer just kept itself cold.

-d

Radio Shack:
120-Volt Neon, Green Pkg. of 2.
$3.29    Catalog #: 272-708  

I wired up one of these to my hot water heater switch so
that I don't forget and leave the boat with the hot water
turned on.  

The AC light on the panel burned out long ago.  I just left
it that way as I know when I'm plugged in... and can always
check the battery charger lights.

My hatch would also make a ear piercing squeal when I opened
it quickly... mainly for the last foot or so of travel.

After several attempts I finally got enough (not too much)
lubricant forward along either side where the rails/sides glide.

Ahhh the simple things... not having a boat greet you with
a smack on the ear drums.  

Fixing that and finally replacing the holding tank
vent tube (the source of the odors) makes the
arrival/boarding much more welcoming.

I replaced my 16 year old mounts with Vetus K75 (without lifting
the engine) and I'm very happy with the noise and vibration reduction.

I also added some sound proofing behind the engine (I even made a
small panel that fits in the opening to bilge aft of the engine) but
the motor mounts made the real difference.

I haven't installed a flexible coupling because the vibration isn't
much worse under power than in neutral at the same RPM.

I've got decent alignment but I do notice a little movement
in the shaft log... I was thinking that might be from the
shaft not being completely true/straight and not the alignment.

I assume a little bit of movement / wiggle in the shaft log
is acceptable?

One of the reasons I went with the K75 is that I didn't want
to have to install a flexible coupling and figured the harder
K75 would work with a sold shaft.  So far so good.

Unfortunately a bit of research would only save you a few
pennies.  However, this a nice resource for places that carry diesel.

http://www.sanfrangasprices.com/index.aspx?fuel=D

Meanwhile oil companies had over 100 Billion in
profits in 2004 alone ...  is anyone surprised?

...not to bring politics in here but...

I guess us sailors are the few with an 'energy policy.'  


Anyone doing a 20/80 mix of biodiesel?
http://www.biodiesel.org/buyingbiodiesel/retailfuelingsites/showstate.asp?st=CA

I hear it can help clean up an engine and at 20% you get the 'french fry' smell without risk of damaging engine seals or fuel lines.  The guy next to me in my marina swears by it.

The Garhauer rigid vang is nice not only because it's spring loaded
(lifts the boom in light air and obviates the need for a topping lift) but
it has tremendous purchase so you can really flatten the main
when sailing down wind even without putting the line on a winch.

But if you like the vang that you have it looks like the kicker is a less
expensive option, and a bit lighter as well.

Finally a rigid vang or kicker controls the boom, making it more stable
when reefing (same stability as if you eased the main sheet and
tightened the topping lift without trouble).

I replaced my traveler car last year with a Garhauer 5x1 (MT-2).

The swap out is simple, just pull the endplates off the traveler track and remove the old end blocks. Then just align the track section that new traveler is on with the track on your boat and slide the traveler (keeping the ball bearings in place). If you want to save your old traveler just slide it off the other end onto the track that new car was just on.

Depending on your setup you may need to drill a hole in the top of your track for the retainer screw on the end blocks to fit into.

I'm not sure of the line length but I would guess longer, say at least 25'.  (5X the traveler track length + some extra)

btw: It works wonderfully... the average person can adjust the car under full load.

Not sure if there is a Kobota part number but I ordered
a single hump hose directly from Catalina Parts
(part #80648 I believe) for around $40.

Size for my 1988 C34 / 25XP:  8"  x 1 5/8 "

Or another... not as safe/official option would be to make a double ended male extension cord (well labeled). When you are not connected to shore power plug one end into any outlet and then the other end into the inverter.... then turn on the inverter, in that order. Remove in the opposite order before you plug into shore power as any voltage on the inverter output can damage it. Safe as long as no one unplugs the extension/jumper cord while the inverter is turned on.... so this isn't for everyone.

A far safer option that I've been thinking about installing is a DPDT 20amp switch in my elec panel. I've found a switch that would work for $10 at a local hardware store. The switch would route power from either the main AC power on the board or the inverter to the outlets only. This way I don't have to worry about turning off the battery charger, hot water heater, etc.

It's on the list... but seems to be getting pushed down by other projects.

I've seen a lot of people on the c30 bb and some here who
use portable propane heaters or alcohol stoves to heat
their cabin.

Seems reasonable iif you crack more than one
window/hatch, install al carbon monoxide detector
and shut if off before you go to sleep.

What about using the oven with the door cracked
(or others have talked about putting a clay pot
on a burner) as the heat source.   Once the cabin warms
up just shut the door and set the stove at a temp
that it's excess heat is enough to keep the
cabin warm.

I've done this for  15 mins or so but since I haven't purchased
a CO alarm  (and it gets hot) I just it off.

It would be nice to have a bulkhead mounted heater but
installing the propane hose seems like more trouble than
it's worth.. here in SF... at least when there are alternative
already on board.

Has anyone else baked themselves warm?

One thing you may already know is that you can test the compression through the glow plug socket.   This saves the hassle of removing the injectors.  You just need the right adaptor...

Stating the obvious...
When testing you want to have the engine stop lever pulled (to stop all fuel flow to the engine) as well as the cooling water cut off so you don't fill your muffler with sea water.

I guess there are a lot of variables here such as 2 vs. 4 stroke (low end torque), inflatable size and manufacturer, and finally prop size & pitch but it's good to here that it's possible to plane with two people using a 5hp motor. (assuming good conditions & positions)

The 77lb 8HP 4stroke Honda seems like a nice engine but a bit over my current budget.
(I'm also thinking of getting an old beater vacuum cleaner to use as my electric inflator and then top off with the hand pump)

Hal, why do you prefer Honda over Tohatsu?

I know, it is a tall order...  thanks for your informative replies.

I have a feeling we'd be stowing the boat regularly (when sailing on SF Bay) so quick setup time and a lighter motor is high on the list...  which is why I've been looking at an inflatable floor or a smaller roll-up model and trying to keep the engine size down.

Hal, that's exactly what I've been looking at so far.  Bustersmarine.com seems to have some good prices.  So you can plane easily with 5hp 4-stroke eh?  Any idea  the max weight you've had and still more or less been up on a plane?

I guess the big question is whether with the 300lbs leaning over the bow with little wind on smooth water (on the Napa river for example) the thing would get up and plane with 5hp or 6hp on the back.

Seems to be a big jump between a small roll-up (45lbs) with 4-6hp(55lbs) and a 10'(80lbs) with a 8hp(80+lbs).... weight/usage/price/setup.  
 
I guess I'm trying to find something in between with the smaller motor that would still work for two.

Just like sailing... I guess it's always a matter of trade-offs.

-d

I'm looking into getting a dinghy for my c34.

I'd like to get something that would plane with say 300lbs or so of passengers onboard. What size motor would I need for say a 9' inflatable?
Would a 5hp do it or would I need 8+hp?

Any opinions on inflable floors vs. plywood?
I'm also looking for an inflatable that I could stow onboard as well as quick setup.

thanks, David