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Topics - rmbrown

#1
I'm traveling on my C34 in the Bahamas and my oberdorfer raw water pump (N202M-16) is dripping via the weep holes... maybe a drop a minute.   If I didn't have 1000 miles to travel home, I'd just order and wait, but alas.

Problem is, the pumps are back ordered.   Rebuild parts have been ordered, but I'm on my boat, away from my shop and bench tools, in an amazing but remote area.

If anyone had one in their spares and didn't mind waiting the 8 weeks to get a new one, I'd happily make it worth your while!

Mike
#2
Main Message Board / Propane locker vent clogged.
March 07, 2021, 09:05:24 AM
Anyone have any intel on the propane locker vent?

I removed my tank for filling and found water up to vent.   Water stank so I washed it out then noticed it didn't drain.

Looked here and catalina direct to see if the vent was just a hole or was screened or filtered but my search was inconclusive.  I found a similar shaped vent on catalina direct that has a flame arrestor built in,  but it didn't mention propane locker as a use case.
Hose pressure from either side doesn't blow it out.  A long wire tie from tank to vent shows it clear to vent then hard stop.  Same tie from outside finds no opening.  Operator error?

#3
Main Message Board / Bow light wiring
July 25, 2020, 01:27:31 PM
Can anyone tell me how the wiring for the bow light runs in the bow pulpit?  My PO rewired on the outside of the pulpit into the anchor locker and into the permanently open inspection port.   I'd like to correct it.

I can feel the bottoms of the front legs of the pulpit inside the inspection port and I feel the tips of screws?  The rear legs I can't access without pulling the bulkhead
#4
Hey gang...  My boat is a 93 model year built in december of 92.  I'm not at the boat but I'm pricing replacement standing rigging.  In the manual on this side, for the 91 M1.5 boat, the uppers are listed (page 24) as 1/2 pin at the top and 1/2 stud at the bottom. 

Catalina Direct's replacement uppers list a 5/8" pin at the top.  I called and talked to tech support, and he verified that the eye on their made rigging is 5/8, and the hole in the replacement upper tangs is also 5/8, but that he was seeing the same 1/2 listed on the drawing he had.

The MkII manual still lists a 1/2" pin.  (MkI manual doesn't list pin size or, if it does, I couldn't find it.)

I'm concerned since the drawings in the manual seem to have remained unchanged yet the CD parts aren't getting sent back.  Anyone got an upper pin laying around they can measure?
#5
Main Message Board / Turnbuckle replacement
January 16, 2020, 08:23:42 AM
I've seen lots about replacement interval of standing rigging but not of turnbuckles.  Are they normally replaced with standing rigging or do they last longer?  If so, anyone know a replacement interval?
#6
What's the current collective opinion of mechanical terminals - sta-lok, hi-mod, and norseman in particular?

I need to replace my standing rigging and I think I'm going with mechanical terminals.  If all else was equal, I think I'd choose norseman just because of how long they've been in the business, but alas, they are not out of business.

Any experience using them?  Any issue with size and them not fitting where the swaged terminals used to fit, particularly at the masthead?
#7
Main Message Board / Core Repair Under Cowl Vents
July 11, 2019, 01:08:14 PM
So first, let me set the scene...  My cowls were not mounted in a dorade box or even using a plastic cylindrical dorade.  This is a problem, but not the basis of my question.

I plan to replace the cowls with marinco day/night solar vents, but prior to making that decision, I thought I might just try to rebed the old ones and deal with the lack of dorade.  What I had on the deck was a teak ring, maybe 1.5" tall and the deck plate into which the cowl threaded was mounted in that ring.  4 screws went through that plate and ring and into deck to hold it in place.  The bedding apparently long since gave up the ghost, and the teak ring had split along the grain, both allowing water to penetrate into the deck and rotting out the core surrounding them.  My first indication of a problem was dripping from the teak ring mounted inside the boat supporting the screen.

When I removed the inner ring, I could see a split in the fiberglass tube where the deck had swollen when wet maybe just swelling with the water, maybe with freezing of that water, not sure.

I removed the cowls, deck plates and rings, covered with plastic and duct tape, and sprayed the heck out of the surrounding area (traveler bar included) to see if the cowl deck plate screws were the source of the water or just where it ended up.  The area stayed dry, so I'm going with my theory that the four screws were the source of the water.

I have new deck plates and screws but first have repair at least some of the bad core... which is actually what I have questions about.

I'm trying to determine how much glass, if any, to cut out, or whether to just overdrill, fill with epoxy, and redrill for through bolts when I replace.

Thoughts, recommendations, horror stories and constructive criticism all welcome. :)
#8
First let me say that I religiously store my key on my strainer thru-hull.  I never take that key off without first opening it, and that's just what I did this weekend... but then I decided to clean the strainer out and I closed it again.  When I was ready to go, I fired it up, untied my lines, ignored my wife when she said something didn't sound quite right, and left the dock.  I got to the end of the dock, got the alarm, realized I was overheating but not the cause, spun around, put it back in the slip and shut it down.  That's about the moment I realized what I'd done so I opened it, fired it back up and watch the temp drop nicely.  After giving it a chance to cool and verify that operating temp was normal, I set out for my weekend with friends.

Now that I'm back in my slip again, I'm wondering what I might have damaged and what maintenance, preventative or otherwise, I should do to tell my poor engine I'm sorry.

I plan to change my oil and, because I'd already purchased a new raw water pump (OD to replace the sherwood) I plan to replace that rather than just the impeller that I may have damaged.

Any other recommendations? 
#9
I have an M35AC engine but a M35BC engine control.   Normal?  Unusual?   Worrisome?
#10
Main Message Board / Compass light wiring
May 11, 2019, 08:46:34 PM
I've just rebuilt much of my pedestal and had my compass refurbed by Ritchie.  All is good now except my compass light.   I don't have any voltage at the pedestal.

I have a gray sheathed black and white twisted pair that drops out of the pedestal base.   From there it heads in the general direction of the stern light and engine control panel.  The pair doesn't come out behind my electrical panel or my engine panel.

Can anyone tell me which switch should control the compass light?  Nav/comm? Running lights?

Anyone know where that wire pair should run?
#11
My after water tank is easy to remove EXCEPT for the outlet connection under the tank, which has me making up new ways to curse every time I have to do it.  I'm thinking about ordering quick disconnect fitting(s) for that line.  Does anyone recall the tubing size and the thread size/type for the fitting at the tank?
#12
Main Message Board / M35A Block Coolant Drain
April 01, 2019, 08:48:56 AM
It seems I have a leak around the block coolant drain on my M35A.

Whenever I return to my boat, I'm finding a puddle of coolant under it.  Not enough to show up missing in the reservoir but enough to puddle in the forward edge of the sump under the engine.  I can see evidence of dripping off the bottom rear corners of the oil pan.  The port side of the pan seems dry but on the starboard side, I found this.

The rusty area is damp to the touch.  I see corrosion on the smaller/inner plug but felt no moisture there so I tend to think the smaller plug had a leak, was tightened, and no longer does, but that the outer plug threads have leaked for a long time.

The leak has been masked by a diesel fuel leak that I just addressed by replacing the fuel pump.  Fingers crossed this is my last (current) leak.

I don't want to remove the plug until I have a replacement or at least a plan.  The kubota dealer tells me that they can't get one... the one their book shows has a hose barb apparently.  Anyone know a source?

Has anyone ever had theirs out and know if that's pipe thread or if it's straight thread and has, or should have, a crush washer or gasket?
#13
Hey gang... macerator only works if the goal is to flip a breaker, but since I'm inside 3 miles when I do my sailing it doesn't much matter.  I'd like to pull it, though, to be replaced if and when we get to get to take an extended trip and make the jump to the Bahamas.  Meanwhile, I'd either like to either plug the outlet, or add a valve at that outlet that would allow me to replace the pump while the tank is full.  Anyone know the thread size/pitch for that outlet?  I'd prefer to go to the boat with one in hand.
#14
Can anyone running this autopilot that's happy with the performance tell me:

1) what you are using for vessel hull type (sail or sail (slow turn)?)
2) Wether you have a rudder position sensor?
3) If you don't have a sensor, what you used for rudder limit setting (did you leave it at 30 degrees?)
4) What you used for hardover time?
#15
Can anyone tell me the model number for the Ronco holding tank that would have been original equipment in a 1992 M1.5?  Even better, tell me where to find that marking on the tank?

With any luck it's obvious, but I'm going down this weekend and one of my chores is to determine if my tank is OE.  I'd like to get the dimensions from Ronco to use for that purpose.

Mike
#16
Main Message Board / Peggie Hall
January 04, 2019, 06:32:44 AM
Does anyone have a method of contacting Peggie Hall other than a private message on this forum?  I wasn't successful that way and I'd love to buy an hour of her time to help me solve a problem.

If you have an email but don't feel like you can share it, my email is rmbrown@code-refinery.com... maybe you could share it with her?

Mike
#17
Since I installed a higher output alternator and external voltage regulator,  and I'm tweaking the belt manager setting,  I cleaned up and looked for belt dust.   I found some but quickly realized that it was due to the edge of the belt touching the head of one of the three cap screws holding the impeller cover in place.

I found a relatively thick lock washer under all three.  The parts diagram for the M35AC shows the thinner star type in use.   If I remove the existing lock washer,  I have clearance but I'm wondering if mine is the only one this close?
#18
Main Message Board / Voltage Regulator Mounting Location
November 23, 2018, 04:31:07 PM
I swear, I remember a discussion on this topic, but my searching skills are lacking today.

I'm headed to the boat tomorrow to mount the new external voltage regulator and I'll wondering what the best spot is?

Suggestions?
#19
Main Message Board / V-Berth Cushion Insert
July 27, 2018, 03:19:59 PM
Does anyone have a picture of the v-berth cushion insert in place in the lower position, as a seat?  I'm going to cut a shelf to fit there and I'm wondering if I can make it out of something 13" deep rather than 14" (because I have a piece of mahogany that would look nice) but I want to be sure that it will be adequately supported.
#20
Anyone have any experience with this dinghy?  I'm liking the kit and all I've read and seen, but will it fit on our foredeck?  And has anyone actually rowed one?

http://sailingmagazine.net/article-1288-pt-11.html

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCVkWkVo0rpJ1I3xgJjmYUFQ
#21
Hey gang:

Pictures to follow but, while rebuilding my two Lewmar 46STs and my two Lewmar 30STs, I found that the teeth of the center spindle are deformed to the point that you can't get the spindle out of the top of the winch.  I removed the winches to rebuild in my shop anyway (from the look of things, the hardened grease might be original equipment) and all else seems to be in order.  I had no indication of any trouble, just doing preventative maintenance, so I don't know that this an issue that has to be fixed.

I'm planning to, at a minimum, grind or file to reduce the diameter to original specs so I can get it out from the top on future rebuilds, but I'm wondering a couple of things:
1) What in the world caused this deformation?  It's hard to believe that someone cranked that hard.  I've wondered if someone left the winches loaded over time, which is possible I guess, but still shocked it would cause this.  The winches are just for halyard use and haven't been left loaded since I've had the boat (about 1.5 years).
2) Am I better off trying to reshape the teeth or leaving them as is?

Pictures to follow.
#22
I've ordered the bracket but I'm away from the engine.  I suspect 1/4-20 but don't know length.  Thanks in advance!
#23
Gang... I was at the boat yesterday afternoon and pulled the steps to take a peak at the engine.  I found a couple of cups or so of coolant in the otherwise clean sump.  This wasn't there when I winterized engine.  I checked the overflow bottle and it's indeed low by approximately the same amount.  I'm headed back tomorrow.  Any ideas on what to look for or what might be the issue?

It's odd to me since there was no leak when the engine was last used and it's all come out since it was winterized.  Nothing could have pressurized the system except something freezing and I have my doubts about that one.

Some ideas of what to look for/at welcome!
#24
OK, folks... I've searched far and wide.  Maybe such a discussion already exists, but I'm struggling to find it.  Where are some of the best external voltage regulator mounting locations for our boats?  I bought a Balmar MC-614H from mainesail and I'll studying my options.
#25
Main Message Board / Reserve battery need a box?
March 03, 2018, 09:26:16 AM
I bought an Odyssey PC1200 for a reserve battery and I'm on a quest to find a good location to install it.  I've read some good suggestions here but was wondering... Do I need to put it in a box or can I just strap/clamp it down?
#26
Just purchased and installed brand new hatch, identical to the one I replaced but hopefully less leaky.

When I tried to close up the boat, I realized that I could latch on the cracked position but couldn't fully close.  I realize the gasket is new but it was maybe 1/8 to 1/4 from closing far enough to latch the thing.  It's there a latch adjustment?
#27
Main Message Board / Fuel Vent Overflow
February 19, 2018, 10:57:06 AM
Howdy folks...  It's been a while since I posted because my searching chops are much improved, but I came up short on this one and surely I'm not the only one?

My boating experience is typically that I can fill the diesel tank until I see fuel in the fill hose, then I stop.  In my C34, my vent is such that I start to make that pretty rainbow skim on the water that attracts so much attention before that happens.  (Tongue firmly in cheek)

How do you guys fill the tank, in preparation for a trip or for winter storage, without making this mistake?  Do you trust the gauge or have some other technique?

Mike
#28
Main Message Board / Bilge Pump Not (Always) Priming
November 27, 2017, 02:36:06 PM
I occasionally run the hose in my bilge and let the bilge pump (a Rule-Mate 2000) run in an effort to at least replace the dirty water with clean.

Yesterday, when I did that, i lifted the bilge pump, rolled it over, cleaned the screen, and put it back down.  It started as it should but it was unable to prime itself and start the water moving again.  I've never had this issue before so it surprised me.  I played around long enough to determine that if I rotated it 45 degrees it would burp out a big air bubble, and immediately prime and run.  That makes me wonder if there's some gas vent that normally allows that bubble to escape.  I've vacuumed out the bilge often enough to know that the pump normally works fine after being high and dry.

Any ideas?
#29
The FAQ on winterization is great but I'm wondering how much of that list is necessary for a boat in the water all winter in North Carolina?  I plan to use the boat all winter, albeit strictly for day sailing.  Winterization of the fresh water system including the hot water tank makes perfect sense, but what about the transmission and engine?  I'd rather leave those ready to go sailing a day or two during each month when we get one of those days in the 50's.  What do you folks do?
#30
So, when I bought my boat, my thru hulls and seacocks were of questionable quality and in need of replacement... so I did.

While I was there, I replaced my raw water strainer for my engine.  It's capable of a much larger flow than the original and I increased the diameter of the hose to the engine from the strainer while I was there.

It's installed so that if you take the lid off with the valve open, it will overfill the strainer bowl.  My normal operating procedure is to close the valve, remove the lid, clean the strainer, open the valve until the bowl overflows, close the valve and put the lid back on, then open the valve for use.  The lid is domed, and the exit to the engine is through the side of the bowl.  I'd prefer to get all the air out but I've not yet come up with a way to do that.

All that said, it seems to work like a champ but I was down below looking at it while running the engine last weekend ans was surprised to see the water "boiling".  Not from temp, mind you... and not, to the best of my knowledge from any air that might be traveling that way from the engine should the system not be functioning properly, but just because of the movement of the water... I suppose.

I feel like I'm missing something and that this is an issue.




#31
I've read and appreciate all I could find on the topic.

I've tried the mid-ship spring in my slip and am amazed at how well it positions the boat given the cross current and wind of that day.

All that said, I'm still nervous as a cat when it comes to actually trying it.  I share a well with another boat.  I am up-current and typically upwind from the other boat.  There's a honking metal piling between me and him that I'd like to avoid meeting up close.  Fenders on my starboard will no doubt decrease the chances of my damaging his boat but not the chances of a nice scrape on that metal post.

What I'm looking for is a recommendation on how to approach the outboard cleat on the finger pier to my port in such a way that I maximize my changes of getting a loop around it and maximize my bailout options if I don't.

The wind and current on a typical day are mild enough... it's a river so the current is always present but somedays barely noticeable.  The wind isn't always working against me but that's the typical direction.

Thoughts?  Parallel to the slip but line up on the pier and duck inside as the current pushes me by?  45 to slip, get a cleat looped, then straighten out?  90 degrees to slip, get the loop over and then warp in?  The latter seems like overkill but may be necessary until I get my nerve up.
#32
I'm learning.  I've researched and read much and realize that I probably just have an air bubble in the 50/50 that needs to be burped out but...

Wednesday night, after an incredibly long day of putting up a mast, prepping the boat, floating it and testing the new thru-hulls, plumbing the raw water intake with new thru-hull, strainer and hose, learning to bleed the fuel system since it wouldn't start, rebuilding the raw water pump (impeller fine but either worn plate or a bad seal when impeller was replaced) to get water pumping out the exhaust, my wife and I left about sunset for the 5 mile run upriver to our marina. 

When I throttled back down from 2500 approaching the railroad swing bridge in the dark, I heard the alarm.  I believe the gauge was reading about 190.  I recall where it was but not what the numbers say, so I'll verify tomorrow.  I shut it down, dropped a hook, and waited for it to cool down.  I opened up the engine compartment to accelerate the process and could see something... a little steam or simply head I can't say in hindsight... rising off the engine.

It cooled fine and I didn't run it beyond 2000 the rest of the trip in.

Question is whether whatever I saw rising indicates a problem that rings a bell with anyone?  I had a lot of engine work done while the boat was out in the yard because some smoke was rising from the compartment during the survey but that was blamed on the riser that's since been replaced.  I'll run it this weekend in the slip while I'm working on 1001 other things and see if I see anything but was just wondering if I'd smoked anything.  I'll check all fluid levels and colors before firing it up.

Any other advice?
#33
Mast is painted, rewired, rerigged and very nearly ready to raise, but I'm not certain which way to orient my split backstay when I put it back.  This was one photo I failed to take, unfortunately.

At the top, it's pretty binary... there's either orientation A or orientation B.  Further down, I have the split, with all cotter pins on one side.  Should they be facing forward or aft?  I'm guessing that doesn't matter much but the cleat on the backstay matters and should be facing the cockpit?
#34
Main Message Board / Running Rigging Routing
April 25, 2017, 04:03:24 PM
Say that three times fast!

I took my mast down to replace the conduit, ended up rewiring and painting, and now I'm putting it back together.

I have photos of how the lines routed in the mast head, the mast base blocks and the turning blocks to the cockpit.  I have photos of how the lines are routed now (mast assembled but not yet raised so there's room for corrections).  I even have the manual drawings that show how they should have been at delivery.

Anyone surprised that none of the three are the same?

First question...  Do most follow the manual's routing or have there been changes that the fleet has adopted over the years?

I was shocked to find that, according to the manual, the main halyard exits the mast aft starboard but uses the aft port sheave at the mast head.  What I'm seeing is that the lines over both aft sheaves are led starboard, with the main using the aft of the two blocks at the mast base and the outboard turning block in the starboard organizer, with the topping lift also exiting starboard and cleating to the mast, so I'm guessing that having lines changing sides inside the mast is normal.

The forward block at the mast base... that's for a spinnaker halyard if I had one rigged?

Both jib sheets lead to port and both head back to the cockpit on the port side?   Where do folks attach the end of the unused second jib halyard to keep it out of the way but to prevent slapping of the mast?

PO had boom vang using one of the three organizer blocks on port instead of the reef line but I'll switch that back.

Any words of wisdom?
#35
Main Message Board / Mast base wiring connector
April 24, 2017, 03:47:35 PM
I'm away from the boat or I'd know the answer to this one, but I replaced the wiring in my mast with a Catalina Direct replacement kit.  There's a connector at the bottom that matches the connector in the boat.  Those must be keyed in some way so that they can only be installed in one way.  I neglected to determine which of the two wires that exit mid height is the steaming light and which is the deck light.  Anyone know which pin is steaming or which is deck so that I can stand a decent chance of wiring it correctly.  Now that it's in the mast the the mast is 100' from the boat, it's a little trickier to do with a multi-meter. :)
#36
Main Message Board / Masthead Wiring Stress Relief
April 16, 2017, 07:19:02 PM
I'm rewiring my mast this weekend... for the second or third time for but this time for real!

I can't find anything telling me how to relieve the stress on all that hanging wire.  Any recommendations of what I can do at the top so the electrical connections and mechanical fasteners at the mast head aren't taking the full load of all that hanging wire?
#37
All:

I appreciate all I've read on the subject, and I've read a lot, both here and on Maine Sail's page but I have a couple of questions.

I'm considering the GC12's rather than the 6 V golf cart batteries and I can find no mention of them here on the forum.  That makes me think I'm not searching properly since everything seems to be on here somewhere!  Maine Sail doesn't have an issue with them so I'm thinking that maybe they don't fit?

Also, I'm looking at the promariner proisocharge (http://www.promariner.com/en/products/proisocharge-series) rather than an ACR.  Pros?  Cons?

Lastly, I'll upgrade the alternator in the next year or so and my understanding is that I'll need an external voltage regulator to really take advantage of it.  Is there a single device, or recommended pair of devices, that will give me the desired voltage output from the new alternator, while still isolating the batteries and being relatively smart about directing the charging current?

Mike
#38
I went to the boat this weekend and noticed an odd stain on the floor.  It was immediately below one of the twist latches holding the screen to the hatch over the center of the boat, aft of the mast.  I could see the brown on that twist latch to match.  It looked like about a 1/2 teaspoon on the floor underneath (white fiberglass since the floorboards are up for refinishing).

It had dried in place and become quite hard... almost like dried varnish or glue (or old west system epoxy after the color changes).

I'm sure I can get it up, that's not the issue... but the root cause, and it's repair, are my bigger concern.  Anybody got anything?
#39
Main Message Board / Alternator Upgrade for M35AC
April 04, 2017, 11:22:51 AM
Guys, I'm sure that this is already discussed on here but darn if I can find it.

I'm in the process of upgrading my electrical system.  I don't plan to upgrade the alternator this year but I would like to know what I might replace it with so that I can better plan this year's upgrades and not have to redo something in the future.

What's everyone's favorite high output alternator these days?
#40
I'm replacing my thru hulls and valves with series 93 forespar parts.  They are being great to work with and are helping me put together what I need from thru-hull to hose barb.  That's pretty straight forward everywhere but on the cooling water intake where there is a strainer involved. 

I'm considering replacing my cooling water strainer with forespar's while I'm in here but there's no flow rate marked on mine.  Theirs is 40 gpm and, give it's size, is, I'm guessing way more than mine.

Was their a standard one used in our setup?  All I have on mine for markings is that it's 1/2" NPT and not for use with alcohol.
#41
Main Message Board / Alternator Wiring
March 26, 2017, 09:17:35 PM
Folks, I see lots of great info about how my boat should be wired but first, I want to understand how it IS wired! I have the schematic in my manual, but that doesn't show the charging circuits.

I have a battery switch on my panel where I have 4 heavy gauge red wires.  Post one and two go directly to my batteries.  The two on my common post I assume are my windlass and starter, the former because it runs to the switch before leaving and the latter based on the schematic.

In my battery box are two red leads for each bank.  One goes to switch.  Surely the other goes to the charger (two outputs)

So where the heck would the alternator have been wired in if my wiring is original?  Is there an isolator I haven't found?
#42
I find myself with a toasted charger and a battery bank that needs replacing.  Reading the upgrade thread has me dreaming of the increased capacity of the Trojan T105's but I'd love to see photos, if anyone has them, of the 4 batteries mounted in the battery compartment that resembles mine... I'm guessing any Mk1 would have the same battery box as my 1.5, but who knows?

I'd also love to see photos of an alternately mounted starting battery if anyone has anything.
#43
Main Message Board / Thru hulls and sea cocks
March 12, 2017, 07:16:53 PM
I know this question has been discussed at length but I couldn't really find anu common consensus...

I found a couple of leaky under water thru hulls and decided to replace all.  They are flush, except for the galley raw water intake, all marelon, and include a conglomeration of sea cocks and ball valves, some marelon, some bronze or brass... Not sure how to tell... But all standing very high of the hull.

I went to catalina direct and saw the one piece marelon valve and thru hull and liked what I saw, then read some scary stuff here.

What's the current common wisdom?
#44
First, I just purchased my C34 a little less than a month ago, so I'm a newbie to this forum.  I've already found it to be incredibly useful and appreciate the info that's already captured here.  I'm going to ask a question that may well already be addressed but that I didn't find with a search.  I won't be offended by a link or search term that might get me there rather than having the conversation over again here!

As part of a comprehensive bilge cleaning effort, I started all the way aft and found that I had water sitting where the shaft leaves the hull.  I'm currently on the hard so I got in there and scrubbed where I could reach and hosed it out, expecting the water to drain to the bilge.  I was surprised when it instead filled the sump under the engine and threatened to overflow onto the floor boards.  I got the water out with a shop vac but I'm wondering if that's by design or whether I have some weep holes that are clogged.  Words of wisdom?

Mike Brown
1993 C34 Just Limin'