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Hey guys,

Just to let you know that I wasn't ignoring you guys. Just sailing around and then staying onboard doing some other maintenance and organizing the buckets loads of crap around the boat.
You know the new boat deal.
It takes 10-15 minutes each time to locate my flashlight or screwdriver since nothing yet have a dedicated spot... But it is getting there.

So far no backflow from the exhaust...

[Always get a chuckle out of those complex engineering terms and references]

One thing I would like to repeat again in case you missed it in my earlier post; that small 90 elbow hose is really soft and nothing like the upright black hard one.

You mean this one?

Also 90 was a hump hose kind of softy hose which he says will minimize the vibration if not eliminates it completely.

Always get a chuckle out of those complex engineering terms and references.   

Hey, it's not easy to be an expert in explaining things! 

Thanks for the photo, Jim.  Looks greast.

Except...

For the past 25 or more years, we have been trying against all odds to hammer home the IMPORTANCE of using blue HUMP HOSE between the exhaust riser and the muffle inlet.  Regardless of what type of muffler.

The concept is to avoid transferring vibration from the riser to the inlet port.

Your boat, your choice.   

But ITWMB I'd remove that black vertical hose and replace it with hump hose.  Available from Catalina Direct.  Years ago we had a lot of trouble finding it.  Nowadays, not so much.  Your muffler will ast a lot longer.

That said, could you fill us in on more than just the specific model and more details about the install?  Like supports, etc.   It would make a great Tech Note article.  You could become an instant rock star!

Thanks and again, nice work.

Thanks for the kind words Stu... I will check with the blue hump hose... Just to see if it's any difference than what we used.

One thing I would like to repeat again in case you missed it in my earlier post; that small 90 elbow hose is really soft and nothing like the upright black hard one. So, the idea we came up with our genius(!) engineering minds  was that the any vibration caused by the engine and relayed thru riser/hard upright  hose will be diminish when it hits the softer 90 elbow.
Also the upright portion of the 90 elbow absorbs most of the vibration and the remaining minuscule amount of vibration is mostly diminished where 90 elbow contacts the muffler.

When engine running I checked by touching that soft 90 elbow and I was feeling more vibration on my knees (because of the position I was in) than on my fingers.
But again I'll check on your advice.
Thanks,

Stu, what I suspect is, the mechanic used a silicone 9-deg elbow from the riser into the side inlet, thus the highly flexible ell being somewhat similar to a 'hump".  Nothing short of a nuclear explosion will hurt the glass-reinforced centek.

That muffler is 1-1/2" inlet and outlet -- as you know the exh hose is 1-5/8", so......... How s/he may have 'adapted' may be interesting to see.  If he really wanted to use a side inlet, he should have used 1500003, the 1-5/8" in/out model.   The replacement should have been a centek 1-5/8" top in/top out.

kk

quote author=Stu Jackson link=topic=9252.msg67995#msg67995 date=1481382338]

Today we put Centek 1500071..
Side in/Top Out model... which felt ok and my mechanic swore that it'll be OK for my boat.
He added a 90 degree elbow hose for my existing hose to meet the side inlet.
Also 90 was a hump hose kind of softy hose which he says will minimize the vibration if not eliminates it completely.

Jim, could you please post a photo?  Right here, too, not on your photo topic.   I am having a great deal of difficulty understanding the side inlet geometry from the riser with a hump hose as you described.  Thanks.

[/quote]

There ya go gentlemen! 

[with INCREDIBLE performance]

I've been offered a Garmin 741xs + GMR 18HD Radar for: $1,562.49 from West Marine.
I guess not a bad price...

While that is a good price "today" both the GMR-18HD and 741XS are both slated to be discontinued soon. The prices will likely get much better within a few weeks to months..

With the Fantom domes due out in about 6-8 weeks, with INCREDIBLE performance gains over the GMR-18HD, you may want to seriously consider a Fantom. In fact my own GMR-18HD will not be going back on the boat come spring.

What will be those improvements to make a BIG difference?

[While that is a good price "today" both the GMR-18HD and 741XS are both slated to be discontinued soon. The prices will likely get much better within a few weeks to months..]

I've been offered a Garmin 741xs + GMR 18HD Radar for: $1,562.49 from West Marine.
I guess not a bad price...

While that is a good price "today" both the GMR-18HD and 741XS are both slated to be discontinued soon. The prices will likely get much better within a few weeks to months..

With the Fantom domes due out in about 6-8 weeks, with INCREDIBLE performance gains over the GMR-18HD, you may want to seriously consider a Fantom. In fact my own GMR-18HD will not be going back on the boat come spring.

I am sorry but I just realized I am an idiot! 

I ended up getting a Simrad NSS7 with Evo2/3G Radar combo together for $1,199.00...
They are still in the box sitting next to me at home.
There are lot of other stuff need to be done before the installation of my electronics.

Today we put Centek 1500071..
Side in/Top Out model... which felt ok and my mechanic swore that it'll be OK for my boat.
He added a 90 degree elbow hose for my existing hose to meet the side inlet.
Also 90 was a hump hose kind of softy hose which he says will minimize the vibration if not eliminates it completely.

Jim : You have a leak (hose to the center of the boat- your description) on the inlet hose coming from the exhaust riser.
The most common problem is that this leak was caused by a failure from no raw water cooling!! (impeller? clogged inlet? etc? etc? etc?)  This will cause the inlet pipe in the muffler to deform and further tightening of the hose clamps may even crack the inlet.

The normal easy fix is to simply re-fiberglass the inlet tube and then also replace the 6-8" section of stiff black hose with a flexible hump hose. 
There have been other numerous discussions on fixing this problem!!

a few quick thought

First of all, thanks to all of you guys for the tremendous help you're offering.
You're an exquisite group of talent up here.

Now to the problem on hand; I don't know if I explained well but the hairline crack was at the bottom of the IN inlet where it meets the rectangular muffler body . Other than that there was no visible problem (leak) on the muffler body nor on the hoses.
Just that tiny hairline crack...
Tomorrow when I go to boat I'll take pictures and try to post here for you guys to see.

BTW I mentioned to my mechanic if the side IN will cause a problem with the riser issue and as far as I understand  he said " there is enough room to adjust the IN hose... Now finding a "hump" hose tomorrow may be a problem...
We'll see!

Jim : You have a leak (hose to the center of the boat- your description) on the inlet hose coming from the exhaust riser.
The most common problem is that this leak was caused by a failure from no raw water cooling!! (impeller? clogged inlet? etc? etc? etc?)  This will cause the inlet pipe in the muffler to deform and further tightening of the hose clamps may even crack the inlet.

The normal easy fix is to simply re-fiberglass the inlet tube and then also replace the 6-8" section of stiff black hose with a flexible hump hose. 
There have been other numerous discussions on fixing this problem!!

a few quick thought

Thanks Ron...

Today I decided to order a new Vernalift muffler but still I am keeping the original muffler came out of the boat.
The only question in my mind is that the Vernalift muffler is a little different style.
It's not rectangle but a circular one and also while the original is top in/out style, Vernalift we ordered is side in/top out...
I don't know if it will make any difference or not? I guess we'll find out tomorrow...

Case of beer sounds good now my friend!

I am not sure what he knows or not he is not available for the next 2 days. He was gone few hrs before my splash so, he didn't witness the leak.
I saw (read here) that some people used Vertex Vernalift brand mufflers. They seem the half price of Catalina Direct's price.
I currently have top in/top out model standard rectangle white Catalina one there.
I was wondering if the side in/top out or visa versa model makes any difference or should I only use top in/top out style Vernalift?

I am reading the posts regarding some of these issues but also I realized some of the posts from 2008 !   So, I was wondering if something else better, simpler, cheaper came along between 2008 and now? 

[The bond between the inlet tube and the box itself can fail. This typically occurs because the vibration of the engine is transmitted directly through a rigid hose to the stationary muffler. In this case, it is impossible to achieve a successful repair.]

Whewww...
After an adventurous week on the dry, I am back in the water today. Then we started the engine only to realize there's a little crack at the bottom portion of the left hose connection area. ( the one on the left = I meant the one closer to the center of the boat when you look from the door under the sink in the head)

Boatyard guys said that it could be repaired by a fiberglass guy. But then when I read this on Catalina Direct website I began to wonder...

Two ways I have seen an old muffler fail are:
1) The seam at the bottom edge can fail. This can sometimes be repaired by removing the muffler. After a thorough cleaning, you may be able to saturate the failed joint with WEST epoxy, clamp and allow to cure.

CAUTION! Inspect carefully after your repair. Carbon monoxide is colorless, odorless, tasteless, AND DEADLY. If it leaks after your repair, YOU COULD KILL SOMEONE. We highly recommend the installation of a carbon monoxide detector.

2) The bond between the inlet tube and the box itself can fail. This typically occurs because the vibration of the engine is transmitted directly through a rigid hose to the stationary muffler. In this case, it is impossible to achieve a successful repair. Even with the installation of a new hump hose to help isolate the vibration (which we highly recommend), there will be much vibration transmitted to the fiberglass tube. To be strong enough, the repair would have to be made on the inside of the muffler where you have no access. In order to leave the enough fiberglass tube exposed for the hump hose, a repair from the outside would be too small to be secure enough given the serious safety concerns involved.

Are they really not fixable or are they trying to scare people to buy a $375 worth muffler?

Did anybody ever done this kind of repair on their mufflers?

My floor boards looked in worse shape than yours when I bought her.  My father sanded all the floorboards and re-coated with 8 coats of Epifanes gloss.  They looked brand new when we re-installed them.  I think you should be able to do the same with yours.

Thank you I will try that...

What is the best way to go?
I don't want to buy one of those mini office or camper type of fridge...
Did anyone of you converted the ice box to an AC/DC refrigerator?

OLD (11/30/2016) & CURRENT (As of 12/4/2016)

Boat was neglected for last few years at the slip. So the dirt you see on the bow was baked in Sea Lion doodoo and sneeze...(yikes)
Bottom pictures will be at another post..

Strip, sand, varnish.  Light sand, varnish, repeat at least 4 times. Love! 

Yep, that's what I am working on lately...