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Messages - John Langford

Pages: 1 [2] 3 4 ... 33
16
Main Message Board / Re: Mk II oil pressure alarm
« on: November 04, 2018, 11:22:00 AM »
I’ve noticed the same phenomenon on occasion. I go through periods when I get silence when I turn on the key, then an anemic beeping after engaging then disengaging the glow plugs. It is not “normal” as the alarm should sound whenever there is no oil pressure.  BTW, I regularly dose the internals of my key switch with a contact cleaner to no ill effect. A new switch cost about $35.

I have not tried to take off the old alarm switch yet. Thanks for the reference to the tech wiki.

A final note. This alarm switch problem is quite common. Over the last few weeks I’ve talked to a number of 34MkII owners whose alarm has not worked properly for a long time. Maybe only obsessive compulsives worry about it😬😬😬

17
Main Message Board / Re: Mk II oil pressure alarm
« on: November 03, 2018, 12:35:49 PM »
Just received a new oil pressure alarm switch. I understand that polarity of the switch is not an issue,  but before trying to replace the switch I wondered if the old one can be spun off by hand and the new one spun on the same way. Or is a wrench required for both removal and installation?

18
Main Message Board / Re: anchor chain on Maxwell VW 50windlass
« on: November 02, 2018, 07:02:56 PM »
I have a Rocna standard/original 15kg anchor, 150 ft of 1/4” G-4 chain, 200 ft of rode, Maxwell 500 windlass and the standard 1999 roller with the OEM bale. No anchor swivel. The anchor regularly comes up without touching the gel coat or hitting the Schaefer furler drum. I raise the anchor with the windlass until the shank just touches the roller and then take it aboard by hand. No problem. Occasionally I have to drag the Rocna at slow speed to clean off the mud and have never made contact with the gel coat. When underway, it fits snuggly under the bale. I pull it tight along the roller using my anchor hook and line and use a u-shaped piece of starboard to pin it tightly to the roller to reduce anchor movement in a seaway. I have just ordered a Mantus S1 swivel to make it easier to orient the anchor before pulling it aboard.

19
Main Message Board / M 35BC Electrical draw
« on: October 30, 2018, 04:35:34 PM »
With everything off at the electrical panel, my monitor shows a 6 amp draw when the engine key switch is turned to the first position (engine instrument panel powered up, buzzer out of commission and glow plugs not engaged). Would the panel draw that much or is something else going on? Any suggestions?

20
Main Message Board / Re: PSS shaft seal and engine movement
« on: October 30, 2018, 02:45:54 PM »
The interface was very cool with lots of 50 degrees F salt water spraying out of it at high revs. 😬😬😬

21
Main Message Board / Re: PSS shaft seal and engine movement
« on: October 29, 2018, 12:23:22 PM »
Since the graphite/S donut surface is clean, I have had no water spray for several years of normal operation, and the spraying only occurred when I pushed the revs up to 2500 and above when the boat was tied to the dock, I am satisfied that the problem was the engine surging forward on its mounts, causing slack in the bellows and thus leakage. My advice: pay close attention to the shaft seal if running the engine under substantial load at the dock. Thanks everyone for the contributions.

22
Main Message Board / Re: Instruments - not recognizing speed
« on: October 20, 2018, 07:15:49 PM »
I had the same problem a few years ago. Thought it was the transducer itself but it turned out that it was the electrical connection. There was a Raymarine connector at the bottom the of the binnacle tube that needed a bit of contact cleaner spray. Problem solved.

23
Main Message Board / Re: Mk II oil pressure alarm
« on: October 18, 2018, 10:54:07 PM »
Yes that was the maximum noise. But I occasionally get a healthy beeping that is easily differentiated from the wheezy anemic mode.

 Bloody hell, we have now developed a spectrum of literary descriptors for the performance of this silly switch. Maybe I need a life🙁

24
Main Message Board / Re: Mk II oil pressure alarm
« on: October 18, 2018, 11:58:20 AM »
Thanks Ken. I appreciate you taking up this file again. I will, in due course, try a new switch and report back.

If the switch is the problem then it’s behaviour is erratic, either silent, anemic or full throated. My sense is that it never changes behaviour once it starts up. It’s either anemic, loud or completely silent for that cycle. I have never had it change from one mode to another once it starts.

25
Main Message Board / Re: PSS shaft seal and engine movement
« on: October 17, 2018, 08:37:37 AM »
I did burp it and it also burped itself by spraying water everywhere😬😬😬

26
Main Message Board / Re: PSS shaft seal and engine movement
« on: October 17, 2018, 08:14:47 AM »
Thanks for comments so far. Looking over my post I note that it wasn’t clear about the question which is: would the engine move forward on its mounts MORE at the dock than when underway. This matters only if you have a shaft seal because the stainless steel donut fitting on the shaft would move forward with the engine thereby reducing the tightness of the connection between the graphite face and the donut.

In my case, I am virtually certain this was the case since the shaft seal sprayed water at the dock but has never done so underway. The explanation might be that the engine places more forward stress on the mounts at the dock because the pressure of the prop pushing the boat forward is not offset by the boat actually moving forward.

27
Main Message Board / PSS shaft seal and engine movement
« on: October 16, 2018, 01:32:49 PM »
In the course of adjusting my throttle cable to allow my Universal M35BC to produce full power, a strange thing happened. As I pushed the engine under load AT THE DOCK up to 2500rpm, the top of the recommended cruising range, my shaft seal began to spray salt water. I have used PSS shaft seals for many years and this had never happened before at any power level up to 2500rpm.

My first thought was engine alignment but I checked it out and it was fine. Then I tightened up on the bellows by about 1/4” and the problem went away. But then I wondered if the culprit was putting the boat under heavy load at the dock. My question is: when powering up at the dock, will the engine surge further forward on its mounts than it would underway? And could it do so enough to cause the shaft seal interface to become so loose it would begin to leak? Any views on this?

28
Main Message Board / Re: Adjusting throttle cable
« on: October 15, 2018, 10:28:32 PM »
Fixed the problem by disconnecting the throttle lever from the forked fitting at the binnacle end of the throttle cable, unscrewing the forked fitting from the end of the cable, drilling two holes about 1/2” further down the fork for the clevis pin and reattaching the fitting to the throttle lever on the binnacle. This had the effective of shortening the cable and thus allowing the throttle control  to provide the full power of the engine if required. More details available if anyone is interested. Thanks to all for suggestions.

Now back to the problem of my tempermental alarm switch...

29
Main Message Board / Re: Adjusting throttle cable
« on: October 10, 2018, 11:28:18 AM »
Thanks both. I have adjusted the threaded fitting at the engine end until it was impossible to shorten the cable any further. When I hit the helm throttle control hits the binnacle tube, the throttle can still be advanced further. If no further adjustment is possible at the helm, it might be possible to move the cable clamp aft by drilling new holes in the plate on the engine to which the cable clamp is fastened. I am assuming that aft is the direction I need to go to allow the Morris control to access the extra throttle ‘room’.

30
Main Message Board / Adjusting throttle cable
« on: October 09, 2018, 08:00:14 PM »
I used to be able to reach 2900 rpm, but recently the throttle control on my 1999 Mk II M35B is hitting the binnacle stainless steel support tube at about 2500rpm. It feels like there is slack in the cable as I push it forward.  The cable is as tight as it can get at the engine end. Before opening up the binnacle, I would like to know if it is possible to adjust the throttle cable tension at that end. Does anyone knowing that is the case and, if so, how the adjustment is made?

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