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I wanted to report very fine customer service on the part of Kiwi Props in New Zealand.

Without warning one day in late June my 2 1/2 year old Kiwi feathering prop refused to go into reverse. In fact, when you put the boat into reverse the engine stopped immediately. The boat had just been hauled and the prop greased and painted. A local diver confirmed that there was nothing hanging on it and the prop and blades were moving freely. There was also nothing wrong with the transmission.

When I reported the symptoms by e-mail to John Blundell at Kiwi Props, he immediately replied that there had been an internal bearing binding problem with a couple of dozen props in the range of my serial number (#6081) and he offered to replace the prop at no cost. A week later I had a new prop by courier which was easily fitted and works perfectly. I sent the original back to New Zealand by surface mail.

I consider this to be service above and beyond. Since a fair number of 34 owners have bought Kiwi props I thought this story might be of interest.

After all these years making sure I had the right tank, I managed to put one gallon of diesel into the almost full (42 gallons) aft water tank on the first day of our summer cruise. That was two weeks ago. Beyond feeling incredibly stupid, I am looking for information on fixing the problem.

Here is what I have done so far. A nearby marine facility pumped everything out of the tank within 2 hours of the event. I then added about 15 gallons of water and a lot of Sunlight dishwashing detergent and went sailing.  I welcomed passing power boats as it helped slosh the brew around in the tank! After a week I pumped out that material (no sign of diesel) and repeated the soap and water treatment. The second treatment has been sloshing around for a week.

So, what do I do now? One suggestion was to pull the tank (I am assuming I can get it out through the aft cabin), put in an inspection port and get it steam cleaned. Another approach would be to clean it in place. I saw Jon Schneider's advice on the Board re using Oxyclean, but I couldn't find any other references to cleaning water tanks fouled with diesel.

Any advice about cleaning the tank would be welcome. We do use the tank for drinking water, coffee etc. so I have to get it really clean.

BTW, I don't need any help with the self-recrimination. I am very good at that on my own.

Following up on a couple of threads about batteries, I would like to know if anyone with a 1999 vintage MkII (Calypso is #1431) has replaced their 4Ds with 4 East Penn, Interstate or Trojan 6 volt golf cart batteries. I have done measurements of the boxes holding the existing 4Ds and I am concerned that the golf cart batteries won't quite fit them. I would like to make the switch but I don't want to have to cut up or replace the existing boxes.

If you have done it I would love to hear about it.

The air filter on my M35B does not appear to be dirty but it always shows evidence of a little oil in the metallic filter element itself and the foam cover over the filter intake holes. I am assuming that this oil comes from the valve cover blow-by hose that terminates against the side of the filter.

Is there any way to get rid of that oil flow? There isn't much and it doesn't leak down into the sump or cause any other significant nuisance. But it offends my sense of order!

Some of you may have run into the British magazine, Practical Boat Owner. It is filled with very useful stuff for - guess what - practical boat owners. The most recent edition has this answer for a reader who was worried that he got a ground fault reading on his polarity tester when he was using the Honda 1000EU generator to run his battery charger. Adjusting the prose for North American English and the fact that we use 110 and not 230v AC, the answer was as follows:

"Don't panic!. The Honda generator's output and the AC power you receive when in a marina are set up in different ways. 110V AC power from the grid is properly grounded, but also the Neutral and Ground conductors are bonded together. The Honda's Neutral and Ground are not connected together therefore your polarity tester will show a ground fault. This does not mean the Honda unit is unsafe. The same goes for some DC to AC inverters."

I posed this question to Xantrex Technical Support:
Can you please tell me the maximum input AC wattage that the Truecharge 20+ and 40+ battery chargers would require?  I occasionally want to use a Honda 1000 watt AC generator to power the charger and want to be sure that it that the model I buy does not require more than the generator will deliver.

And I got this reply:
The specifications you asked for are as follows:

TC20+  414W at 120V
TC40+  765W at 120V

The total input power required will be higher if the input voltage is lower than 120VAC.  Inversely, if the input voltage is higher than 120VAC, the total power required will be lower.  The maximum power the charger will require is at 90VAC (the lowest voltage the charger will accept) and is as follows:

TC20+  585W
TC40+  1080W

I have installed the Truecharge 20+ and would expect the Honda to run it comfortably in "econo-fuel" mode.

It is interesting that one cannot directly extrapolate input AC wattage requirements from output DC wattage (which in the case of the Truecharge 20+ would be about 264 watts as the charger - true to its name - does deliver up to 22 amps).

When I tried "Lavac" in the search function I was asked if I meant "Lava" which I thought was quite humorous in the context of the inquiry. The search suggests that no one has tried to replace the OE head with a Lavac unit. This is the manual toilet that uses a separately located diaphram pump to create a vacuum and thereby empty the head after use. It is reported to use very little water and therefore greatly extend the life of the holding tank while cruising. A number of users have reported great satisfaction with the Lavac. See: http://www.lavac.com/

Is there anyone out that has secretly been enjoying the pleasures of the Lavac who would care to weigh in on this compelling topic?

I asked this question before but it was buried in a long exchange about lighting.

I want to replace my masthead anchor light bulb with an LED bulb. I have Hella nav lights at deck level on my 1999MK II but I haven't climbed to the masthead to see if the anchor light is also Hella and check the bulb type. Does anyone know if it is a Hella "all around" light and if the bulb is a Bay(onet) 15S? I am hoping that the DR LED Polar Star 40 is the right bayonet bulb but I don'twant to order one if it isn't. See: http://www.doctorled.com/p21.htm

The Catalina engine panel (for the Mk-IIs at least) incorporates a continuous/intermittent (oil prsssure/water temperature) piezoelectric engine alarm made by ICC, Mfr no: BRP4535S -24-CD. The tend to fail because of their exposure to the elements. I found the exact alarm at Allied Electronics (www.allied.com) for $7.95. They ship fast from Texas for Americans and for Canadians, from Toronto, thus avoiding onerous customs brokerage costs. Very good service.

I just upgraded almost all the lights on board my MkII using LED lights made by Doctor LED (see www.doctorled.com) and distributed in Canada by Steveston Marine in Vancouver. All of the Frilight fixtures in the headliner take the MR-16 LED. I also replaced the dome light over the sink with the Doctor LED dome light and a couple of brass gooseneck lamps took the G-4 replacement bulb. With all 8 lights on I am drawing .8amps in toto as opposed to ten times that amount with the halogen and Xenon combination I had before. The light is bright, white and easy on the eyes. The LEDs are set up to run on 11-15 amps so you can run them while the battery charger is churning out 14.4 volts apparently without damaging them. The life span is 10,000 hours so let me know if you would like to be mentioned in my will.

This is a great upgrade for power stingy cruisers. DoctorLED has a replacement bulb for Aqua-signal anchor lights. It is on my project list but in the meantime my Davis cockpit light will have to do.

Has anyone ever identified a cheap automotive regulator that can be used as a short term backup if the "smart" external regulator packs it in while on a cruise and far away from a marine electronic store?

I have searched but I can't find much information on whether or not the stanchion pad bolts and chainplates on the MKII are through cored deck or pure fibreglass. Does anyone know for sure?

I have searched and not found any threads on moving the foresail winches on MKIIs aft along the coaming so that they can be easily accessed from behind the wheel by a single hander. I have done some measuring and it looks feasible as long as the port side winch is positioned to provide enough room for the locker cover. Both winches would have to be placed on "Starboard" pads high enough to allow the winch handle to clear the lower lifeline. On the starboard side it looks as if the optimal position might even allow for accessing the attachment bolts through the aft overhead light fixture in the aft cabin. The sheeting angles look pretty good and it would also be possible to get rid of the deck blocks on both sides thus reducing friction when sheeting in.

Those are my thoughts so far. If anyone else has done this or thought more clearly about it I would be delighted to hear from you. This is not the kind of thing you want to do until you have worked it out completely.

Does anyone know the brand name of the grey industrial rubber floor covering used in the galley of the MK IIs?

I have traded my three blade Michigan wheel for a feathering Kiwi prop, tweaked the rig and the stock sails, downsized to lighter sheets and replaced the stock deck turning blocks with Ronstan track blocks to reduce friction and sheet hang up. The results have been spectacular. I am going much faster, keeping moving in light airs and tacking much quicker. The C&C 99 that was leaving me in the dust is now in my gun sights especially if we are slightly off the wind. This, BTW, is all in friendly racing among cruisers sailing from anchorage to anchorage.

Now I want to kick it up a notch and the question is will I get a suitable return on an investment in a new sail. The stock foresail is still in reasonably good shape except that the sunbrella UV cover needs work. But it feels heavy and I lust after a new UK dacron possibly with spectra reinforcing if that is an option. Should I save my money or go for it?

One design flaw of the C34 from a single handers perspective is that you are a long way from the main sheet especially when you are going down wind in strong weather, the autohelm is not up to the job and a jibe looms. So, I am just about to purchase a block with cam cleat and becket which I will attach to the aft starboard cleat with a couple of turns of kevlar line. When it looks like I might need instant access to the mainsheet I will leave one turn of the sheet on the sheet winch drum under the dodger, lead the sheet through the block and take control of it from behind the wheel. The run of the sheet does not interfere with the starboard sheet winch. It ain't pretty but it should work when off the wind.

Any thoughts?

I noticed a complaint in another thread about how hard it is to change the heat exchanger zinc. It reminded me that a very knowledgable (navy electronics guy) boating colleague  recently told me about his very novel (to me anyway) approach to heat exchanger zincs. His view is that most of the erosion of the heat exchanger zinc is due to the rush of water over the zinc and not from any electrolysis problems. He never uses normal zincs in his heat exchanger. Instead he threads a suitable length of soft steel bolt into the bronze zinc holder and substitutes it for the normal zinc. he argues that the soft steel is suitably less "noble" to handle any electrolysis issues and will not be subject to water erosion. It sounds convincing and I would love to stop buying zincs every 6 months. Any thoughts?

Has anyone else noticed that when you put in the first reef in the main there is considerable stress on the sailcloth and the second slug? The reefing line forward wants to pull the sailcloth all the way down to the boom but the track stop on the mast does not let the first and second slugs come down to the boom.  The first slug is loosely connected to the sail by a line running along the luff of the sail but the second slug is more tightly fastened with sail webbing. Would extending the line arrangement to the second slug make a difference? If this has been an issue for others, has anyone come up with a solution?

I did a search (pace Stu) but can't find the reduction ratio for the Hurth gearbox on the Universal M35B. I think it is 1:79:1 Can anyone confirm that?

Further to the excellent exchange on holding tank replacement I thought there might be some interest in my recent replumbing and relocation of the macerator pump - at least on the part of owners who are allowed to have a macerator pump.

While replacing all the original black Shield sanitary hoses with new expensive smooth walled white stuff from West Marine I decided that I didn't like having hose at the lowest point in the system leading to the macerator pump. My sense was that most of the smell came from this hose as it was always in contact with the stuff in the bottom of the tank. So I replaced the hose from the tank to the macerator pump with solid ABS black plumbing pipe and fittings. Here is how I did it. A 1 1/2"ABS coupling connects the T at the bottom of the tank to a short piece of pipe then a 90 degree coupling which leads to a second short length of pipe and two couplings that allow me to go back to a 5" length of  hose and onto the end of the Jabsco macerator pump. I also moved the pump up off the hull so that it is located almost level with the top of the tank and attached to a cedar block on the inside of the settee base. This would facilitate replacing it without a mess if it ever failed. It is Murphy's Law that the pump will fail when the tank is full and a pumpout station is nowhere to be found.

BTW, I also noticed that the tank is not evenly supported underneath. I have used a piece of cedar cut to size to support the whole of the aft end of the tank. Not perfect but it will do until I have to pull the tank. I also intend to redo the teflon tape on the inspection port. With the help of the deity I will beat back the evil pong!

I have had a Standard Horizon CP150C chart plotter in a pod at the helm since I bought the boat. Last week I got caught in a strong rain storm and the plotter was pelted for about 30 minutes. The next morning it didn't turn on and a day later condensation became visible in the screen. So I opened it up and it had a lot of water inside. I dried it out and sprayed the board with contact cleaner but it never worked again.

I got back on Sunday and Monday brought the plotter into my local West Marine where I had bought it. Here is where the story gets good. I had misplaced my receipt but they had a record of the purchase from 2003. So there was no fuss about date of purchase. The unit has a three year waterproof warranty so the folks at WM offered to send it to Standard Horizon for repair/replacement OR they said I could upgrade to the newer CP155C for the difference in the price. I chose the latter. When we discovered that the newer model was less than the price I had payed originally, they refunded me the difference! :clap It just doesn't get better than that.

Now all I have to do is figure out if the leak was a one off event or if this is a structural problem. I have to say that I wasn't too impressed with the fit of the gasket when I opened my original plotter and found the water.

Anyway, three cheers for West Marine. They made my day.

Awhile back I mentioned in a posting that I had a gelcoat crack under the furthest aft port stanchion (where the lifelines open) and noted that it looked like I would have to remove the medicine cabinet in the head to get at the nuts and washers.  Since no one mentioned it at the time, let me now affirm that there are no nuts and washers under the medicine cabinet. Both legs of that stanchion base are bolted into glassed in plates. I haven't checked everywhere, but it looks like this is the only stanchion fastened in this manner.

BTW, taking off the medicine cabinet requires only the loosening of the four BIGGEST screws in the back of the cabinet (not all of them) and the release of the wire tie holding down the 110v electrical cable into the outlet in the cabinet. But now that you know about the stanchion, you won't need that information.

Has anyone tried the "tufted topper" which is a cover for the mattress designed to enhance the comfort of 4" of foam? Is it worth it? Can you bend it easily to gain access to lockers under one side of the bunk? Anything else I should know about this product?

Has anyone had to find a source for the drawer pulls on the 1999 Mark II? The manufacturer seems to be Mosela in Sweden but I can't find them on the web. The pulls have a black plastic thumb and finger twist handle in a ss or chromed brass circular frame. They fit in a 1 1/2" hole. Are they still being used in the new boats? If so i can probably get them from Catalina.

I blew the belt on my engine yesterday on the last day of a three week cruise and I am not sure if I should be doing further tests to determine if the overheating caused any permanent damage.

I was motoring out to the wind line and I noticed that I had no tach reading and the voltage registered about 12 volts. I went below to check the e-meter and look at the smart charge regulator. When I opened the engine compartment I saw that the belt (Gates Green Line) was shredded and I shut down the engine. The temperature reading was just above 200 degrees at that point and I had coolant and steam bubbling out of the radiator cap. I changed the belt (great fun in a seaway) and two hours later fired the engine up again to get into my slip. It worked fine for over 30 minutes. I have replaced about a cup of coolant. Everything else seems fine. Should I be looking further for problems? BTW, the engine is an M35B.

A while back I posted a question about fuel weeping from the bleed screw on my secondary (M35B engine mounted) fuel filter no matter how much I tightened it. I now have solved the problem. There is an 8mm. soft copper washer under the screw that gets flattened after it has been tightened a few times and has to be replaced. Had a bit of trouble finding this washer but finally succeeded. Problem solved.

I recently found a little water on the forward side of the bulkhead supporting the forward berth. I then noticed that water was collecting there because there was no limber hole joining the forward compartment to the central bilge area. Therefore, if the forward water tank sprang a leak, for instance, the water would rise up to the level of the small inspection hatch in the bulkhead supporting the forward berth and run across the sole before hopefully spilling into the bilge aft of the mast step. There is a limber hole visible at the aft end of the mast step.

Are all the Mark IIs like that or did my forward limber hole get lost when the bulkhead was being tabbed in?

I needed to go up the mast to replace my dead deck light bulb so I pulled the main halyard bitter end out from under the dodger, reversed the direction of the block at the base of the mast and lead the halyard forward to a snatch block attached to the base of the Schaeffer furler with a line and then down to the windlass drum. Kate used her toe to winch me up the mast effortlessly. The windlass is worth its weight in gold!

BTW, the lense on the dead 20w reflector bulb can be removed and put on to a new bulb/reflector with a little clear sealant thereby increasing the life of the bulb.

I did some reading on windlass loads in preparation for this adventure. The Maxwell VC 500 has a maximum static load of 1000 lbs. My claw anchor and 200 ft of hi test 1/4" chain weigh 183 lbs. The West Marine windlass advisory suggests that the maximum load on the windlass should accommodate at least three times that weight (549 lbs). The Maxwell would appear to be appropriately sized for the boat. If only I could figure out how to check the oil level in the sucker without removing it I would be a totally happy camper.

All the Marelon thru-hulls on "Calypso" turned easily except the large one for the engine raw water intake. So I backed off the four bolts that hold it together about a half turn each and the movement of the arm became smooth but still firm. Problem solved.

As I recall from taking one apart many years ago, the thru-hull is a sandwich of pieces of Marelon and o-rings that could easily have been assembled a bit too tightly. I am assuming that as long as the body of the fitting doesn't leak and the valve functions properly (i.e. stops water when closed and vice versa), then one can play with the optimal tightness a bit. I notice that Forespar warns against adjusting the bolts on its website but I am guessing that they are just trying to guard against some moron loosening the bolts to the point that the body of the thru-hull begins to leak water into the boat. Any views?

I have been trying to establish the Kubota engine equivalent of the M35B so that we can all go off to our Kubota tractor dealer and buy subsidized (kidding!) engine parts. I started with a posting from Roc on the C36 site which said that the Kubota no. on the side of the M35 is Model: V-1305-E. I tracked that number to the Jennings Equipment site where the V1305-E turns out to be a 3 cylinder engine. But  I discovered that the Kubota V1505-E2-D21 is installed in the Kubota B3030HSD "premier tractor". The V1505 is 30 hp, 4 cylinder, 91.5 cu. in displacement, bore and stroke 3.1 x 3.1 inches, and takes 4.3 litres of oil.  Could be our guy! It is also installed in the Kubota Compact Excavator, KX71-3.

Then I think I confirmed that when I discovered that Witchard Marine in Oz marinizes the V1505 and calls it the WM 35. The picture looks just like our Universal M35B. See:
http://www.wm-marine-diesel.com/witchards.htm  

The excitement builds! Plenty of data on the engine here which makes the match pretty air tight. Even the gear box (Hurth HBW100) matches up.

See performance data for the engine @ http://www.kubotaengine.com/curves/V1505-E.htm

Oops, a setback in certainty. Another Kubota site says the V1305 is a 4 cylinder as well (not a 3 cylinder) and the preformance data is also close to our M35B. Roc may have been right after all. See: http://www.kcpp.com/kubota.htm
But then a further Kubota site makes it pretty clear that the 1305 and the 1505 are basically the same engine. See:
http://www.frontierequip.com/kubota/Super_Five.pdf

So I think we are closing in on it. What we need is someone who has specs for the M35B at home to check them against the specs for the 1305 and the 1505 and close the deal. Then I can get my tractor hat on, go up to the Kubota place on the Saanich peninsula and check prices.

Anybody else want to pick up the Kubota challenge?

I appear to have small amounts of fuel leaking from my secondary fuel filter cannister. I have tightened the filter so I don't think it is the connection to the block. Has anyone experienced a leak from the joint between the body of the filter and the screw on top?

Since I have to change it regardless, I did a search on the bleed technique. I could not find a definitive answer re whether or not the fuel pump would purge the air from the new secondary filter on its own (with the filter bleed screw open) or whether I have to purge air from further along in the system as well.

Has anyone with a M35B done this job?

Here is an interesting little problem that I hadn't run into before despite years of autopilot use. I went to disengage my Autohelm 4000+ recently and it wouldn't. The very small rolled ss pin that connects the clutch handle to the cam had sheared and the handle went back and forth without doing anything. Trying to extract the remains of the pin I split the handle. A Raymarine agent sold me a kit with a new handle, cam and pin for a ridiculously high price. The rolled pin proved impossible to insert without a special tool. Plain ss pins sheared off after a couple of days. So I drilled out the incredibly small hole through the handle and cam to a slightly larger size and I am now happily using a small ordinary nail to connect the handle to the cam. Seems to work fine. The nails cost a dollar a pound!

I noticed a crack in the removable end cap of the 3" heat exchanger on my 99 Mk 11 when I took it off to fish zinc bits out of the exchanger. When I got the replacement cap from Westerbeke it was quite different from the original simple flat 3" bronze cap. To start with it was about 1/4" less in diameter and had a ridge all the way around the circumference that  presses into the gasket. My mechanic checked and Westerbeke insists it is the new, improved replacement. I have put it on and there was no leak when I ran it but it seems strange to have an end cap that is smaller than the end of the exchanger body it is bolted into.

Anyone else run into this? Any problems with leaks?

Does anyone know what the Kubota equivalent of the Universal M35B engine is? If there is an equivalent, are parts generally cheaper if you purchase them from a Kubota dealer?

I just did my first oil change on Calypso, #1431, a MkII with a Universal M35B. I could only suck 3.5 quarts of old oil out and, put about the same amount of new oil back in. All this despite the engine manual claim that I should be taking out and putting in more than 5 quarts.

I did a search on this issue and found a debate about the correct amount but no obvious consensus around a particular number of quarts.

Does anyone have a definitive answer (or at least one based on some experience and/or communication with Westerbeke)?

Much appreciated
John

Does anyone know if the standard Jabsco toilet on the MkII is attached by lag bolts so that the old Jabsco toilet can be removed and a new Jabsco bolted on without having access to nuts/washers under the attachment point?

Cheers,
John

Is there an audiophile in the group? In the course of exploring the electronic bowels of my new (to me) boat I notice that the previous owner installed a Pyramid 20amp noise suppressor as part of the aftermarket car audio system. A couple of questions. Is this device necessary if I don't run the audio system when the engine is on? Second, does it draw much power? It seems to be powered from a small secondary breaker panel with 3 amp plug in fuses but I haven't been able to sort the whole scene out yet.

A related audio question. There seem to be two power connections to the am/fm/cd unit. One is the red wire which goes to a breaker on the main panel and the second is a yellow wire  which goes directly to the house battery connection on the main battery switch. Both are fused. What is the purpose of the yellow wire? Why is it connected directly to the main battery switch and is that the best way to do this? The readings on my e-meter suggest that even if the battery switch is turned to the starter battery, the power for the audio system continues to come from the house battery. Is the audio unit effectively being powered through the yellow wire?

Cheers
John

Kate and I are off on Friday for three weeks south of the border in Puget Sound and the San Juans. We will keep an eye out for other C34s enjoying a summer cruise. Please feel free to drop by if you see us "wasting away" in your favourite anchorage.

Cheers,
John

I need a longer reach on my alternator bracket to handle the larger Leece-Neville alternator installed on my 1999 Universal M35B. Has anyone found a good source for after market alternator brackets? I was hoping to avoid grubbing about at the nearest auto wreckers yard...which isn't actually that near. Ideally I would like to find a bracket which was about an inch or so longer and was the same curve as the OE or slightly flatter. NAPA doesn't have anything.


Cheers

Hold your nose for this one...

I just read the Jabsco toilet manual which came with the boat (it was raining...I was reorganizing the bookshelf)and I noted that the Jabsco people insist on a vented loop in the  hose line between the toilet and the holding tank if the toilet discharge elbow (at base of pump)is not at least 8" above the top of the holding tank. The manual isn't graphically specific, but I assume that the vented loop would stop the bad stuff from returning to the toilet when sailing hard on a starboard tack.

Now for the bad news. There is no vented loop in my discharge hose and the toilet discharge elbow is quite a bit lower than the point on the holding tank where the discharge hose from the toilet connects. Does anyone else have a vented loop in their discharge hose?  I recall that my c320 lacked a vented loop and I am pretty sure that the discharge elbow was well below the point where the discharge hose entered the holding tank. No problem in 9 years of sailing.

I breathlessly await assurance that all is well...or otherwise.

Cheers,
John

Somewhere in the foggy past I saw instructions for sorting out if there is enough oil in the Maxwell windlass motor. However, viewing the oil through the viewing glass depends on the windlass being mounted vertically instead of horizontally I believe. Does anyone know how to confirm adequate oil levels with the windlass mounted horizontally as it is in the Mark II?

Cheers,
John Langford

I was looking up inside my Edson pedestal from the aft cabin (searching for an alternate route to the pedestal for a large JRC 1500 radar radome wire)and I noticed that the two red engine control cables were being rubbed by the s.s. wires connecting the steering chain to the quadrant on the rudder shaft. I am concerned that over time the steering wires will cut into the cables or vice versa and cause a failure in one system or the other.

I tried freeing up the engine control cables and moving them into different positions from below but they are very stiff and won't cooperate. I am contemplating unbolting the black pedestal base plate and effecting some more permanent form of separation but that would probably be very complex and could lead to unintended consequences.  

I searched the site and can't find any reference to this dilemma. Has anyone ever had this problem and come up with an effective solution?

Cheers
John Langford

I have the chromed bronze deck plate on the cockpit sole over the head of the rudder post. The previous owner didn't leave a deck plate wrench that fits this rather large deck plate. Is there an alternative way to open it without purchasing the wrench I see on p.546 of the 2004 West Marine catalogue?

Cheers,
John

I tried to put a 22 lb. standard Danforth into the slots in the anchor locker only to find that I couldn't close the anchor locker lid when it was in place. Am I missing something? Isn't this the anchor that is supposed to work in this space?

Cheers,
John

Does anyone know which precise shade/colour of Granicoat is used on the MkII galley counter? Has anyone ever ordered a small tin for repairs?Any information about a convenient supplier would be welcome.

The Granicoat site is: http://www.safascorp.com/granicoat.htm

Cheers,
John

Kate and I took possession of "Calypso", a 1999 Mark II (sail #1431)last week and moved her to our slip at the Royal Victoria Yacht Club in Cadboro Bay, Victoria, right next door to "Island Rose" a Mark I. We are in the throws of making her "ours" and having a fun time solving the stowage problems in sunny but very cool winter weather.

A couple of small glitches have been sorted out. A significant chain plate leak was fixed with a rebedding. During manufacture or commissioning a misplaced hole was drilled for the cover plate and never properly filled. I am thinking of doing a more thorough epoxy job on it when the weather improves.

Also, the autopilot was binding slightly. This turned out to be caused by the use of a soft metal snap ring on the Edson wheel shaft which had come out of its channel and was allowing the wheel to creep forward and put pressure on the aft side of the ST4000 doughnut. I notice that even with the proper ss snap ring and washer installed, the leather bound wheel still is being rubbed by the cockpit locker cover when it is being opened or closed. Any obcervations on that situation would be welcome.

We also  have done a Message Board search on the availability of ready-made bedding for the giant forepeak berth. A couple of references to Topgallant sheets but I didn't notice the name of any other providers. Suggestions on this would also be welcome. That is one big bunk!

Just sent off our association dues and looking forward to being part of the C34 mob. I would like to take the opportunity to thank everyone who responded to my questions while we were buying "Calypso". It was all very helpful.

Best wishes for 2004
John Langford

One final issue from the survey I have just completed on the 1999 C-34 "Calypso" on which members might have advice.

The Heart "in-charge" three stage regulator seems to be charging in an irregular manner, with the voltage and tach needles oscillating up and down and the red charging light on the regulator glowing brighter and then less bright. The cycle of this activity is faster at higher rpms and slower at lower rpms. Also, the belt seems to wiggle around more when the irregularity is most pronounced. I can turn the fan on the alternator by hand (it is a Gates 1015 and seems loose), but the alternator adjustment arm has reached the end of its throw and the belt can't be tightened.

Has anyone ever seen this phenomenon? It is happening on an M-35 with a Leece-Neville alternator. I have searched the archives and the Q&As but I haven't found this particular situation described. I would be delighted if it was a belt problem rather than brain in the regulator. Any thoughts?

Cheers,
John Langford
almost owner of Calypso

Just finished the surveys on Calypso, the C34 that Kate and I are buying. The only significant problem was leaking at the nipple where the exhaust gases enter the exhaust elbow. Is this unusual on an M35 with 625 hours? The engine guy is going to cut off the offending section and replace it for what seems a reasonable amount (about $160).

Cheers
John Langford

We just had a very successful sea trial of the 1999 C34 that we are trading up to. It sailed smoothly and quickly in 16 knots of wind. But I have one question.

Should there be any smoke coming out of the Universal M35 exhaust at about 2500 rpm? The weather was cold (about 7 degrees celsius) and the air was damp. There was a curl of white/grey smoke which soon dissipated but it looke like more than condensation. The only other relevant information is that the motor is driving an autoprop, it only has 625 hours on it and it looks well maintained.

I'd be grateful for any feedback. The Perkins on my C320 has never shown even a whisp of smoke.

Cheers,
John Langford
Victoria, B.C.

Hi Folks,
I have just agreed to trade my 1994 C320 and some cash for a 1999 C34 and I am trying to talk myself into believing that I have made the right choice.

There are features about the 34 that we really like. Replacing the aft cabin with the big bright V-berth is a huge plus for my slightly claustrophobic wife, but is it big enough for a 6'4" guy and a 5' 9" girl? Is the size of the head compartment a problem; it's definitely smaller than the 320 head. The deep more traditional bilge on the 34 will be heaven after the shallow wet bilge on the 320. The smaller reefer is actually a plus for someone who wants to keep electrical draw down. But the cockpit lockers are just plain smaller. Where do you store a small outboard when you can't keep it on the rail?

The biggest issue is sailing performance. I haven't had my test sail yet. The PHRF ratings are comparable, but does the 34 go to weather as well as the 320. We don't race but I couldn't stand falling behind the guys I now cruise competitively with. I need to look at a polar diagram, I guess. Is the boat more sea kindly than the flat bottomed 320?

Finally, I love the Perkins M30 and don't know the Universal M35. Is it a totally reliable engine. Are there access problems I am not aware of? The access on the 320 is amazing.

I would appreciate any thoughts that owners might have on these issues or others I haven't thought of. If things go well I will be making the switch before December 1.

Cheers
John Langford