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I have installed a ratcheting block with cams on my furling line and I'm really happy with this setup.

Nautos part # 92076

I think I understand what , but WHY 


It is your boat , but you are planning to complicate (introduce all kinds of new points of failure)  your plumbing just to avoid opening seacocks ?

There is a lot of articles about proper thru-hull / sea-cock installation  and when done properly you can leave them open while on the boat.

Attached pic is little confusing....  what is below the "shelf" on the "under" side of forespar seacocks?

When sailing at night around Sandy Hook and Came May watch for small fishing boats without any lights  !!!

Decent places to stop along Jersey shore would be Barnegat inlet, AC and Cape May, (Shark River has fixed 50ft bridge right before municipal marina - so not an option anymore)  there is also nice marina just north of the C&D Canal (Delaware side) where you can catch some sleep and wait for a tide (see Bills comet on why you might want to do that)

Entrance to Worton Creek is usually mined with crabpots - So if you are getting there at night make sure you have a working search light.

Looking forward to see 3rd C34 at Worton Creek.

I have searched NJ PA DE MD and only place where I was able to re-certify my aluminum tank was "Kennedy Welding Supplies Inc" in Trenton NJ (~$20)

(Thank you concerned legislators for solving yet another non-existing problem with more licensing)

I must ask why projector and why 15lbs ?

I'm very good at creating wet mess when servicing any strainers ....  especially bulkhead mounted engine raw water strainer .

Door option looks interesting ( easy access ) 

Same boat here , again    I'm leaning towards aft cabin shelf - above the engine.
other options I have seen on this forum :
1) engine compartment (hot and crowded)
2)  head sink locker (no room on my boat , and potentially wet )

[ML-ACR 7622]

After closer look I realized that it would not be possible to switch 7620 to ON with dead House bank (connected to always ON bus) 

ML-ACR 7622 is the only valid option for 2-in-one setup posted above.

Price -  not that far apart from any regular ACR +  separate manual "combine switch"
   

Emergency "combine" is not ideal description possibly redirect would be better

In scenarios where you have house or reserve/engine bank failures 

For example:

House - failed

House: OFF
Reserve: ON
ACR: ON

Engine and panel are powered from reserve

I'm in the middle of electrical upgrade and found interesting product from BlueSea:  Automatic Charging Relay ML-ACR 7620 and 7622.
Is there any reason why either one should not be used as an "emergency combine" switch and ACR in one ?

I had similar problem with my ST 4000 - replacing LCD fixed the issue.
You can get replacement LCDs from France,  available on ebay for around $130 (search for: Raymarine Autohelm LCD screen ST4000+)
It is fairly simple repair.

Thanks  for the warning ! 
I actually found this "unmentioned" company last week on the web and I was considering them as a source ...

I did the serpentine kit install this winter on my M35a and it went very smoothly.  We did not think the large pulley would fit as is but no machining was needed and everything fit perfectly.

Did you use Balmar kit or some cross reference from the automotive world ? (does it exist ?)

Hello and Congratulations 

Where are all these lines go ?  top of the mast  ?  is it one line or 2 lines
Mast looks deck stepped , can you post more pics of the upper part showing the other end of the setup ?

Btw
I must say your cradle makes me nervous .... I don't see much support preventing boat form pitching aft or forward

I used 60 ft of 7/16 MLX ,  factory setup.
( eye splice took about a 1.5 ft off )