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I have a slow leak of antifreeze near the heat exchanger (rear) end of my M35B engine. I'm gradually narrowing down the exact location, and currently I think it's coming from the hose that runs into the port side of the HX. Tightening the hose clamp did not stop it. It may be somewhere else, but I'm starting to fear that there might be a crack near the end of the hose, which I assume will only get worse as the crack propagates. I may try a second hose clamp, but I'm coming to the realization that it may need to be replaced, since it's about the only hose left with original factory paint. The parts manual (#201021) identifies it as part #019059 (#15 in attached picture), 26" long x 7/8" wire inserted hose. Having never worked with wire-embedded hose, I'm concerned about how to make any tight bends that are needed. Is there a tool that I need to get? Do I take it to a shop to do the bends?

If I have to replace that hose, I might as well do the adjacent raw water hose (which is the other one still with factory paint), identified as #200439 (#16 in attached picture). This one has very intricate bends, and appears to be custom made by Westerbeke (since the parts manual does not even specify a length). Can you guys recommend a source for this one?

FYI, I had a quality problem with the supposedly "genuine" Frilight switches from SailorSams, so I returned them. The switches from uxcell on Amazon exceeded their listed amperage spec, so that they would be safe even if a future owner installed a 10w incandescent bulb. So I'm using them as replacements and they seem to be working fine.

FYI, Dan's post was almost 8 years ago, and he hasn't been here for over 7 years.

I found a lighting website that lists the exact replacement parts from Frilight:

http://www.12voltledlights.com/Rocker-Switch-sw87072-for-FriLight-Spot-Gyro-8707-and-87072_p_1068.html#

I'll order from them if I need to, but SailorSams.com is another Frilight dealer that I've done business with before who lists the whole assembly. I've sent them an email asking if they can order in the rocker switches separately, so I'll give them a few days to respond. I prefer to work with these same guys again if I can, since they were very fast and flexible with my prior order.

Just to clarify, I'm looking for rocker switches for on the light fixtures, not for in the electrical panel.

I'll resurrect this old thread because I'm having the exact same problem on the same vintage boat (2001 MkII). A rocker switch on one of my white swivel eyeball dome lights suddenly broke today. It was about 50°F in the cabin, so not terribly cold, but about 20-40°F cooler than normal operating temperatures. I have another switch in the V-berth that's getting unreliable (which is a more hazardous than complete failure of the switch), so it's time to think about replacing all eight of them. I don't want to replace the whole fixture, especially since I've replaced the original incandescent bulbs with really nice warm white 4W LEDs, and there's no corrosion or other issues in any of the fixtures.

(FWIW, I did an identical repair on my old C250 red swivel spots rather than replace the whole fixtures.)

So far I've found two possibilities that come close:

This one is the closest cosmetic match, but supplier is in UK. Also might be a tiny bit too wide:

https://www.abcomponents.co.uk/rocker-switch-a11132200000/

This one looks to be the best I have found overall. I actually wouldn't mind having 1/0 printed on the switches, since that can provide useful guidance if a bulb is burnt out. This is the same seller who supplied the switches for my C250 spots. I've sent an inquiry about UL listing and other safety concerns:

https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Home-White-Rocker-Switch/dp/B075TKH65W

I'd welcome better suggestions if any of you have addressed this problem before.

Breaking : Have you looked at Walmart for your Rotella?  I believe that I've seen it there when I get a gal of Mobile 1 diesel. 

I bought my gallon of T4 15w40 at my local Walmart this time, about $14. They didn't have it in quarts, but I didn't really want any more than a gallon anyway.

I was at Pep Boys shortly afterwards looking for other stuff and noticed they had gallons for $19. But they did not have T4 in quart size, only T, which was discontinued over a year ago.

This is only for info of others, I've already done my oil change for this year. The boat is on the hard, winterized, and putting the winter cover on tomorrow.

Hi Ken, I decided last year to go with Rotella T4 dino oil, which has a large following. I'm just posting an update on local availability of quart quantities for the benefit of others. A gallon was fine for me this year, because I have extra left over from last year.

I'm not interested in switching to Kubota at this point, because I'd have to get rid of the extra Rotella that I'm carrying. But I agree, the gallon price is only a few dollars more than Rotella.

For next year I would be interested in using a Kubota oil filter instead of Universal's #300209 repainted version that I for this oil change. This cross reference chart shows 9 different Kubota part numbers. Any clue which one is preferred?

http://www.oilfilter-crossreference.com/convert/UNIVERSAL/300209

Quick update since I posted last year:

I did my annual oil change yesterday, using Rotella T4 15W40. I had no problem finding a gallon bottle of the stuff. However, just like last year, none of the local stores had T4 in quart bottles. They're still selling the now-discontinued Rotella T in quart bottles.

My inquiry was from last year. My ultimate decision was to go with a 135 with foam luff. It has served me well this season. I purchased from Bacon Sails in Annapolis (who uses the same overseas loft as Quantum), and they did a good job at a fair price.

In comparison, the 150 that came with my boat was not a particularly good design choice. Just as Hugh17 observed, it was too heavy cloth for light air, and too big and unmanageable for moderate air. I might consider an asym someday, but in the meantime if the air is dead I just motor. I'm not a racer, so I'm not going to be DQed for running the motor.

Quick update: Bilge under aft berth has been bone dry all summer. Redoing the caulk worked.

Thanks, Ken. I think these may be the same ones I had previously obtained from Westerbeke's website. I went to verify, and below is what I got for two of new links. I believe that I am logged in properly (no login prompt appears). You may want to test yourself and correct as needed:

http://c34.org/wiki/images/3/38/M320b_25xpb_35b_40b_50b_operator_manual_ocr.pdf

http://c34.org/wiki/images/a/af/M25xpb_m35b_m40b_service_manual_ocr.pdf

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I know it may take some time for an M35B owner to respond, but the most important question right now is whether the lift pump slows down after running glow plug heater for awhile (as widely reported by many owners, but not sure whether they're B-series owners), or it keeps clicking at the same rate (as I observe on my boat). This will tell me if I have an abnormal situation with my pump.

Thanks for the info. I have some more studying to do, because I didn't think that the banjos were downstream of the injector pump. I thought the banjos provided the fuel reservoir for the low pressure side of the injector pump, and once the fuel entered the pump it was off the recirc loop and headed into the cylinder. That's why I left it off my depiction of the recirc loop. I didn't flunk my diesel course, I just forgot a lot of stuff since I took the course (like where the injector pump is located).

Next time I'm at the boat I'll have to re-trace the lines, though I'm sure you're right since I think there are metal tubes (high pressure) leading into those sections. I wasn't thinking things through.

I'll also have to go re-count my cylinders, because I could have sworn I had four. I think I'm right about that one.   

Maybe my terminology is misleading. The only loop that I see on my motor is the one that goes:

Tank → Racor primary filter → lift pump → Engine secondary filter → banjo washers → return to tank

This provides a self-priming source of fuel to the banjo washers, available as needed for pumping into the injectors. That is the only recirculation loop that I am aware of on my B-series motor.

Is this what the older motors have? I thought that the older motors (like the one in my diesel class) had  dead-end on the last banjo washer. In this case, the lift pump would slow down dramatically once the system pressured up, because it would be dead-heading. In my case, I was thinking that my lift pump doesn't slow down because it never dead-heads; it just continuously recirculates any excess fuel back to the tank. Another MkII owner can blow away this hypothesis by confirming whether their pump slows down after running a few seconds.

But now I wonder if my pump runs fast because it's not pumping properly. I haven't studied how the pump works. If it's a piston like you say, then there must be internal check valves to ensure the piston is pumping in the right direction. So maybe the check valve (ball or flapper?) is degraded and the piston clicks away without pumping anything.

I am aware of more recent design changes in lift pumps which chatter at high frequency, presumably due to a piezoelectric mechanism. So it may be time to research those options and get a spare and/or replacement pump.

In the meantime, I guess the easiest way to test whether my pump is working is to attach some hose that's long enough to lead up above tank level and see if the pump can lift the fuel above that level. Since my fuel tank is full, I'm not going to be able to have any sort of real test of the lift pump with the tank providing a pressure head that overcomes the pump's malfunction.

EDIT: Another question - I see some references to a coarse filter that's built into certain lift pumps. Does my square one have such a filter? Are there instructions anywhere for how I can open it up and check this out?

After I got back to the dock, I put the IR gun on a few things to verify temperature......

Engine had just been turned off. Unsafe to reach while running in gear.

No burn at all, just warm enough to get my attention and shoot its temperature.