Show posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.

Show posts Menu

Topics - Bill Shreeves

Main Message Board / Metal AC Duct Fittings?
March 14, 2023, 10:30:01 AM
I'm replacing my old AC with a new one as well as the duct etc.  Having a tough time finding a plastic 6x6x4 wye but plenty of galv metal.  Any thoughts on using the metal fitting under the V-Berth to branch from the 6" main flexible insulated duct?
Main Message Board / Install toe rail 1-1/4" T-Track
October 24, 2022, 01:31:04 PM
Thinking about installing 1-1/4" aluminum T-Track on port and std toe rail.  What length 5/16" screws should I use?
I've had enough with buying ice to keep my food cold and I'll be installing a new Cold Machine CU-100/VD-150 on my '87 34 in a few weeks.

What is the typical or most common side of the icebox to mount the evaporating unit and thermostat?  The Admiral will have input on where she thinks it'll be easy for her however, I wanted to know where others have it mounted.

If anyone happens to be aboard their MK1, any chance you could get approximate dimensions of the space aft of the table post?  I'm wondering if a dog crate might fit in that space temporarily.  Ideally, dimensions fore and aft between table base and cushions projecting forward and starboard cushions to port side of table and height between sole and table supports.

Thanks if anyone can share that!

Main Message Board / stringer location
April 20, 2021, 07:48:37 PM
Does anyone know if there is a stringer anywhere between the one near the forward edge of the galley cabinet and the front of the engine compartment?  I meant to try and look last week and/or sound the floor with the sole lifted and forgot.

Main Message Board / Hole Saw for Thru Hull
March 12, 2021, 11:50:55 AM
Any suggestions on what type to buy that might survive well enough to cut through the hull?

Main Message Board / Defender 2021 Spring Sale
March 05, 2021, 08:57:32 AM
FYI, Strictly an online sale this year...  Fri. March 19th - Sun. March 28th
The existing alternator arm to my now dead Mando 51A alternator does not come even close to working for the CMI-105.  The CMI-105 is so long the alternator needs to rotate clockwise to keep connectors from touching the exhaust manifold.

Unless someone knows of an "off-the-shelf" bracket that will fit, it looks like I'll need a custom solution.  I'm all ears if someone has a suggestion.  Short of that, this is my approach:

I temporarily installed the 105.  With the existing arm mounted, I over-laid the template print-out of the universal arm from Compass Marine and adjusted the template to a position that appeared to be a good fit.  I taped the print-out to the old arm then removed the arm with the template attached.  I fabbed a piece of starboard out the new arm "template" along with faring the junction between the two arms.  I'll took the mock-up to the boat and checked the fit.  With a few minor adjustments, it looks like it'll work pretty well so, I made a drawing based on the tweaks and will start  looking for a machine shop to fab in 1/4" steel.

Any alternative ideas?
Main Message Board / New Standing Rigging
June 26, 2020, 02:16:17 PM
I'm about to pull the trigger on having a local rigger replace my standing rigging.  I'm very surprised after sending an email asking about a warranty on his work.  He replied that there is no warranty expressed or implied after the mast is stepped

Really?  Is this customary?  WTF can I do with the mast un-stepped?
Main Message Board / Mast Refinish
December 08, 2019, 12:07:53 PM
While my mast is down, I'm thinking about sprucing up the appearance of my unpainted, un-anodized mast because its looking tired.    I've researched painting and it looks like it should have several coats of high-quality primer as well as several coats of high-quality top finish paint which is time-consuming including the time between coats, hard to have a clean environment out in a boat yard and both are fairly expensive.   No point in doing it half-way right?   I've read that, assuming a quality paint job, its common for chipping etc. after 5 or so years.  I've also read that its not uncommon for corrosion to appear under the paint as evidenced by blistering.

A buddy with a '93 C34 also took his mast down at the same time at our yard.  His mast is painted.  He doesn't know when it was painted.  For all he knows its original.  It has some chips, scratches.  It also has a bit of blistering around the bottom 6".

While researching painting and looking in YouTube as well, I ran across someone that stripped very old paint off his aluminum mast, polished it and coated it with the EverBrite a clear coat product. The video was made several years ago and the poster has updated a few times saying it's still looking really good several years ago.  The mfg. says it never chips and it looks really easy to get a quality and you can apply several coats in one day.  So, I'm strongly considering this since I'm not necessarily interested in color, just a nice looking, cared for mast.

Does anyone have experience with EverBrite or similar products on unpainted metal or any thoughts on this?

If interested in the video just search YouTube for Everbrite Mast.  The mfg. site is www dot everbritecoatings dot com
Anyone from the org going?
I installed a new bowl on my Groco HF-B last year along with a new Groco mfg gasket.  It started leaking last weekend and tightening the bolts doesn't seem to be resolving it.  I am being very cautious about the amount of torque and trying to keep it generally uniform around the bowl to avoid cracking the ceramic base.  i didn't use any gasket sealer last year but, I'm wondering now if maybe I should have.  No leaks last season except for an adjustment after initial installation.  Thought I'd ask the forum before installing the new gasket.
Main Message Board / 2 very impressive boat cleaners
April 05, 2019, 08:51:08 PM
I'm sure many know about these products but, these where a "discovery" for me this week and I'm so impressed, I wanted to share for those that haven't tried them.    Starbrite Instant Hull Cleaner for cleaning the boot stripe and Starbrite Instant Black Streak Remover.

The Instant Hull Cleaner cleaned the nasty white boot stripe exactly as directed and it was as effortless as wiping it clean.   I applied with a rag but, I'll make sure I have a way to spray it on in the future.  This worked for me far easier than On Off last season.

The Instant Black Streak Remover on the hull that appear under the deck drains etc. cleaned up with little effort.  It also cleaned the transom that gets dark from a variety of causes really very well. The label says it won't remove the wax but, the water definitely beaded far less where I used this product.  This was prep for Spring commissioning and waxing so, no big deal to me.  I also made sure to thoroughly rinse with plenty of water after using these serious cleaners

I don't think I've ever promoted a product like this before but, I wanted to share for those looking for an easy way to get these tough to clean jobs done.

Can't wait to get her back in the water later this month!
It seems that WM has recently pulled back their price match policy to only matching brick & mortar locations within 50 miles or an Amazon fulfillment product.  I hear WMs interpretation for the Amazon fulfillment price match is only for products Amazon stocks in their fulfillment centers.   I haven't found anything "official" from WM.  That's what the WM employees told a friend that that recently was denied a price match.  I doubt they'll advertise their new policy.
Main Message Board / 2 Keel Bolt Nuts Frozen
March 24, 2019, 07:14:38 PM
I replaced 7 of the 9 keel bolt nuts and washers.  Unfortunately, I'm unable to budge 2 of the nuts despite generous applications of Kroil for a couple of weeks in advance and two shots on each with Freeze Off, tapping etc. and a 25" breaker bar and they won't budge. .  Also tried using my impact screw gun on one hoping the shocks might coax it but, the 1/2" adapter for the socket just twisted off after a short while.  Fortunately, they're #4 & #5 counting the forward keel bolt in front of the mast as #1 so, these are very accessible.

I'm guessing my only option is a nut splitter.  The bad news is I've been unable to find one large enough for a 1-1/8" nut.   Best I can find is 27mm which is a .062 undersized.  Thinking if it won't squeeze on I could probably grind a little off the crowns of each facet to get the 62 thousandths.

I can't imagine I'm the first to encounter this so, anyone lick this one?  if so, what worked for you assuming Freeze Off and expletives weren't the answer.

Thanks in advance for any assistance
Main Message Board / Cockpit beckson portlight
March 10, 2019, 10:36:11 AM
My cockpit beckson portlights leak around the frame.  So, like need to re-bed.  I assume these are original but don't know for sure.   The frame protrudes in to the cockpit and includes drains.  While figuring out how to uninstall I learned they're not installed as Beckson instructs.  Theyre not through bolted.  There are no fasteners through the exterior trim ring and pan head wood screws are used from the interior in to the fiberglass.  Trim ring  and port was bedded in some pretty stubborn adhesives.  Is still somewhat flexible but doesn't appear to be clear silicone.

I assume I should get the flush mount barrel nuts and through bolt when I reinstall.  So, I'll grab some online for the reinstall.   I see the Beckson instructs to use silicone.   I prefer to use Maine Sails bedit tape.  Any reason not to?    Thank is my first port re-bed efffort.

Thanks for any advice on this!
Main Message Board / Move Fuel Shut Off
January 28, 2019, 07:17:38 PM
The fuel shutoff in my '87 34 has a "T" handle and is located to the right of the Admiral gauge panel in the port coaming.  See attached pic.  Jib sheets etc. often get caught on it and its a PITA.  The cable has failed and I'm planning on going with a knob and moving it lower between the aft and port seats.  I'd appreciate input from others if they too experienced this problem and have resolved it.

Main Message Board / Fuel Tank Replacement - Plastic?
September 11, 2018, 07:09:13 AM
I just removed the original aluminum fuel tank yesterday because it started leaking.  Fortunately, we were on the boat and caught it before it became a major clean-up.  After reading the life expectancy is 15 - 20 years and mine is 30, it owes me nothing.  Catalina Direct wants nearly $950 for the replacement plus shipping.  I plan on calling a place my marina uses for custom tanks to see how much they want.  Also wondering about a plastic fuel tank.  Anyone with experience, thought etc. regarding plastic and or Catalina Direct alternatives?   Should I have a tank built, I'd insist on baffles regardless of the material.

Thanks for your thoughts...

Knowing how many of us are DIY, I wanted to share this
The Datamarine S-200DL has showed "MSD" when motoring and under 7' of depth pretty much since I got the boat 2 seasons ago.  While extremely annoying when I pretty much want it most, we've managed without incident but, it's time time to do something about it.  While investigating, I traced the wire from the transducer and found a pretty well corroded connector, not too far from the transducer, that pretty much fell apart when I went to take it apart.  I'm sure that didn't help at all but, what are the odds that a poor connection would most likely appear at shallow depths while motoring?  It usually shows depth @ anchor and in the slip.  The boat is on the hard so, I wouldn't really know if fixing the connection does the trick until launched which is too late to replace the transducer.   If anyone with more experience, which is pretty much everyone on the forum, has any thoughts or suggestions, I'm all ears.

The other question I'm wondering is, if I replace, I need to stay with e 2" thru hull which leads me to Raymarine but, the displays from Raymarine won't fit where the old round Datamarine L.C.D. is.  Can you use a transducer from one mfg with the display of another?

I recently read that Catalina recommends disconnecting the propeller shaft from the tranny before hauling to avoid possible shaft damage from the hull flexing.  Do most practice this?

Main Message Board / Groco HF China Bowl Replacement
August 31, 2017, 04:34:28 AM
One of the 4 bolts securing the bowl failed while on vacation cruising the Chesapeake last week.  Not the bolt, the hole that the bolt head is secured to in porcelain bowl.  The head of the bolts are recessed in to the porcelain and the bolt head pulled through the hole.  As a short-term work around I used a large washer and some rubber non-skid material between the washer & the porcelain.  The PO replaced the entire Groco toilet pump assembly last year just before I purchased the boat and the toilet has performed very well so, I'm considering replacing just the bowl.   Does anyone know if the china bowl itself uses a common mount with other mfg such as Jobsco?  I thought I read someone commenting on one of the forums, can't find it now, that the bowls are common.   Does anyone know if they are or are not?  I ask because it occurred to me it may be cheaper to buy a Jobsco and use the bowl instead of buying a replacement bowl from Groco for nearly $200 + shipping.

The closer i get to wide open throttle the more readily the throttle springs back and I need to use a bungee to keep it above 2400.  Any suggestions how to remedy this without making the throttle too stiff?
Main Message Board / Stuffing box hose replacement
April 30, 2017, 07:57:02 PM
I'm replacing the stuffing box with a new one and the HD hose kit from CD.  The new hose is a 6" long Buck Algonquin and I think longer than needed however, I'm not sure how short to cut it. The old hose, much thinner than the new hose, allowed about a 1/4" between the end of the shaft log and the aft end of the stuffing box.  If I cut the new hose down to 4" long, I'll have about 3/8" between the shaft log and the stuffing box.  That hose is, as most know, is very thick and stiff and I was wondering if it should be longer which may permit a little more flexibility?  I haven't been able to find anything online regarding the length for the stuffing box hose or space between the log of box. That may be because its just not that critical so, I thought I'd ask.
Main Message Board / 10:1 outhaul?
March 26, 2017, 10:23:24 AM
In the process of replacing the internal boom outhaul.  I see that CD has 10:1 outhaul but, since I don't have in-mast furling, is there a need to increase from the factory outhaul?  I intend to buy parts locally and not buy the 10:1 from CD.  Is there a need to generate that much tension on the foot?

Since I'm still new at sailing my own boat that I don't tare down and trailer away each day, should some tension on the outhaul be relaxed when not sailing allowing the foot of the sail to relax?  Also, the existing outhaul line is 15over ' long.  Why would it need to be that long?
Main Message Board / Lifelines from CD
March 24, 2017, 06:56:08 PM
Anybody have any experience or thoughts, opinions etc. regarding the lifelines available on CD?  They appear to be competitively priced unless I haven't researched enough...  Read quite a bit about the many advantages of going bare SS.
I'll be buying an inflatable tender this spring and I want to use the main halyard to hoist it up on to the foredeck for longer trips.  I intend to replace my halyards and, since I've never done it, I was wondering if the 115' long halyard, per the manual for a std rig, is long enough or if I need more length.  Anyone else do this and have a suggestion on halyard length?
My boom is rotated out of vertical by several degrees on my '87 C34 and was that way when I purchased her last Spring.  This position is "fixed" and I don't know if it requires an adjustment at the gooseneck or if it isn't supposed to be "fixed" and time for replacement of the gooseneck casting assembly.
I'm replacing my bronze propeller shaft.  Are there any thoughts regarding A19 vs A22 and any vendors to buy from?

In intend to install a new Federal Flexible Coupling after I commission the boat in this spring.  I assume  the Federal coupling needs to be "fit" to the shaft so, I'm not sure how to go about that unless I buy one and take to a local place to buy the shaft and have them fit it unless someplace on-line sells both.  I hope to be able to remove the old hard coupling half from my bronze shaft and use it as an "alignment tool" by "slipping" it on the new shaft to align the engine after she's launched.

I'd appreciate any insight.
Along with the installation of a new ZF 10 on my '87 Cat34, I want to add a cooler and I plan on buying the OEM 3306107001 ZF Transmission/Gear Cooler from Mr Cool.

Since I don't have one on my ZF 5 and new to this, I'm not sure how the raw water lines are run.  I'm pretty sure it's added as a loop before the heat exchanger however, I'm not sure and the last thing I want to do is restrict or reduce cooling to my engine.  Can someone help me out with a description or diagram or photo?

Also, the connections for the product shown in the picture on Mr. Cool don't appear to be very long.  Will I have a tough time getting two hose clamps on each connection on the cooler?

Main Message Board / Transmission Replacement
December 20, 2016, 01:39:07 PM
So... my, new to me last Spring, 1987 34 appears to need the transmission "fixed" and I would like the opinion from those that know more about this than I do which, probably includes everyone that's a member of this great org...  I say that because this is my first boat since I sold my 16' Hobie 30+ years ago so, I have much to learn.  I've sailed occassionally with others and been on a 2 week cruise on a Gulfstar 52 in the Abacos 25 years ago and a 2 week cruise in the Virgin Islands on a Hunter 42 15 years ago so, the love of sailing has always been there.  Just needed the time and resources to get one of my own. :thumb:

Following paragraph is the lengthy background.  To get to the question, skip to the next paragraph  :clap

The boat was re-powered 10 years ago by a PO with a M25XPB / ZF5M transmission.  I bought it with 450 hours on it.  Yes, had it inspected and nothing reported about the tranny.  Not having any previous experience as an owner/skipper, I didn't notice that the "feel" when shifting in to fwd was different than rev. Kind of slide in to fwd, firm engagement when going to rev.  That came to mind when I wondered why it didn't begin to move fwd when I shifted to fwd after backing out of my slip mid-season a couple times.  I began to do some research and looking and I believe the tranny is toast or nearly toast or the following reasons.  A big oversight on my part was not checking tranny fluid right after buying.   I did the oil, fuel filters and everything I could think of for the engine but neglected the tranny.  Well, when I checked, no evidence that the fluid had ever been changed.  Factory paint undisturbed.  Checked dip stick and no fluid.  Drained and found thick burnt fluid to no surprise.   I filled with new fluid, ran to get to get it warm, shifted a few times then changed again.  Tranny shifts a little better but, I don't think I can trust it.  I'm open opinions on this.

So, my research shows it'll be little savings to rebuild the ZF5 and likely far better to go with a brand new ZF10M, if I can get one since they are recently discontinued, or go with a ZF12M.  I'm not going by the inflated price for the 10 on CatalinaDirect.  I'm inclined to go with a 12 but the ratio gives me pause.  Going from 2.05 to 2.14.  Am I making much ado about nothing?  BTW, I'm aware the 10 is about an inch longer than the 5 and the 12 about 1-1/2 inches longer than the 5 so, I'm assuming I should probably have the shaft shortened to accomodate either instead of asking more of the Cutlass bearing which also must be replaced while the boat is on the hard for the winter.

Thanks in advance to everyone for your input on this and for all the great info I've obatined from this group!!!