Messages

I am also located in the Chesapeake where the days can easily get in the 90's & very humid.  I had a guy from Annapolis Cruise Air, Denny, come by & look at my boat before I even bought the unit & he said a 12K would do fine for the same reasons Glenn referenced.  It has been used for 2 seasons & cools the boat fine, even on very hot days.  I get a good bit of condensation & have the drain pan plumbed to the raw water output.  It also does a good job of warming the boat up in the cooler months.  The unit is installed the same location as Glenn's, Nav locker.  I only have 2 vents, one just above the unit on the top surface of the Nav locker & a 2nd to the aft cabin.  The vent on the top of the Nav locker has the fins adjusted so airflow is directed the top middle of the salon.  I also have 4 fans aboard to move air around, 1 aft cabin, 1 fwd cabin, 2 salon, 1 port 1 starboard.  Airflow helps a great deal making down below comfortable.

Pics of the original light fixture in the salon:
Pic 1 light with cover on
Pic 2 light without cover
Pic 3 light open showing dim bulb
Pic 4 light open showing bright bulb

The light fixtures I have in the salon (qty 4, 2 port 2 starboard) have 2 sockets per fixture with a ON/OFF switch on each side fore & aft.  I used the low lumes bulb for one socket & the higher lumes multi LED bulb for the other socket.  I've attached a pic to give you an idea of the type fixture & location on port side. 

The lights fixtures I have in V berth (qty 2) & in the aft cabin (qty 2) are shown at this link but as they state no longer available.

https://www.catalinadirect.com/index.cfm/product/3715_769/span-style-cabin-light-early-fixturespan.htm

I also installed these units:

https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/swivel-led/135-swivel-utility-led-light-bar-with-rocker-switch/1434/4518/

1 installed over the Nav table & 2 installed over the Ice Box/Stove area.  The swivel works well so it can easily be adjusted for the best results.  This light fits nicely on the back side of teak trim.

https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/led-dome-light-fixtures-non-waterproof/10-inch-oval-led-dome-light-fixture-w-switch-30-watt-equivalent/1490/3465/

The above light replaced the original florescent light in the head, installed same location as the original light.

I  switched over to all LEDs for internal lighting. 

For the salon lights I kept the original fixtures & used 2 separate bulbs:

one bright, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EL26M78/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

one dim, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PHHNXTG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

For the aft cabin & V berth I used the original fixture with the following:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EKKJKTI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Bulbs were installed 3 years ago & have worked fine.  I also tested the bulbs by applying 15VDC to make sure they were properly heat sinked, a potential issue with cheap LED bulbs.

I also have a 1986, have hull #42 & noticed yours is also a 1986.  Really sad to hear it took bad placement on the hard to cause such damage not age of the boat & improper care.

The local area I am, near Annapolis, has a good number of boats that are just left to the environment.

Best of luck & keep us updated.

Where is the output of your crankcase going?

Any exhaust smell at all?  Look under the head sink as suggested & see if there is any indication of soot at the muffler input or the riser where it goes into the muffler.

Have you noticed any change in water flow out the exhaust?

I replaced my Exhaust Riser 2 years ago & it is quite a job.  Good idea soaking the manifold bolts with PB, give them time.  In my case when I removed the old one it just fell apart, almost like the insulation was holding it together.  I was in the US so I ordered a SS one from CD. 

While reading through the forum to gather info to replace the riser I found a few people that talked about having a unit fabricated some used SS but others used Black Pipe (obviously will not last as long as SS).  Also keep in mind the hump hose if it did not have one.

Nice work, it might be a good idea if you offer to build that you got to heat shrink marine terminals.

I'm in the process of doing the same project, along with major wire upgrade to remove the qty 2 ea 4 AWG cables & replace with 01 AWG cables.  I'm not sure what the advantage to adding the terminal block is.  I'm thinking more direct wire because connections are just another potential failure point & if done correctly (good heat shrink terminals at both ends) should outlast the original install which worked for 30 yrs in my case.

Engine mount bracket retrofit has been done.

I am in the process of doing some extensive rewiring, many many items from this forum have been very useful.  Replacing all wiring from the alt & cockpit control panel plus many updates to the Power Panel.  Changing SPST to DPDT AC breaker, changing all terminal connectors to marine heat shrink, changing 1/2/BOTH switch & relocating, adding SG200 to monitor 2XT-105 House bank & voltage display for DC at Power Panel.

Thanks for the clarification on the part number, regulator not alternator. I assume alt # is 8MR2049K with additional stamp of 12N-51A-8440.

I plan to update what I have with the Leece-Neville regulator then update the alt for the following season when I add another 2 T-105s.  I am waiting because I also plan to add a SG-200 & have a budget to keep in mind.

Thanks for the comments, I thought explains my use of the boat would be helpful when deciding where to spend the boat bucks.

I currently have an "original" Motorola 8RG2009A alternator & it took me 2 weeks of PB application & patience to get the pivot bolt free.  It was bonded from the bolt to the alt frame.  PB did the job.

I am looking to have the alt tested & then determine my next step & trying to keep a tight budget.

I have 2 GC T105 & a group 24 for reserve/starting. My use is weekend on the hook & back to marina. Motoring at times for a couple hrs at the most.  I have a Sterling 30 amp charger, excellent purchase from Mainsail. It will keep the batteries maintained & I currently have no solar.

Based on my use & current config can i just put the alt back on if it tests OK or is an external reg the best way to go?  I've searched this topic on older posts & I got the gist this alt does not do a very good job, am I correct?

Any suggestion as to smart choices would be appreciated.

I currently have an "original" Motorola 8RG2009A alternator & it took me 2 weeks of PB application & patience to get the pivot bolt free.  It was bonded from the bolt to the alt frame.  PB did the job.

I am looking to have the alt tested & then determine my next step & trying to keep a tight budget.

I have 2 GC T105 & a group 24 for reserve/starting. My use is weekend on the hook & back to marina.  I have a Sterling 30 amp charger, excellent purchase from Mainsail. It will keep the batteries maintained so the alt needs are not high.

Any suggestion as to smart choices would be appreciated. 

My drain hose coming from the head sink is clear when initiall installed & I marked the water level.

Next time at boat I will take a pic & post.

I think the water line level is below the water input at the nipple on the exhaust riser but it is close.